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I suppose one could view it as, the Kroil had time to do the job, the "other stuff" came late to the party. Expecting instant gratification from a penetrant is asking a bit much.

Tom, I forgot the smart. Gasoline, turbo, horizontal filter. Please don't think for a minute that I think there's anything wrong with pre-filling a filter, but I can't find solid evidence of a need to do so. I'm one of those weird-o's that actually reads owners manuals, and service manuals, and I've yet to see this addressed.

Well, I spent some time searching for definitive answers about oil flow through filters, and found lots of opinions, and few solid facts. I appears that some engines/filters are designed as "full flow" meaning that all the oil coming from the pump goes to the filter, unless the filter by-passes for some reason. Other engines shunt a portion to the filter, the rest going on to lubricate and/or cool something. Just from personal experience, I've owned perhaps 20 diesels, nearly all had horizontal filters. The 3 Cummins being the exception. I've also owned 4 gasoline fueled, turbocharged engines of two very different designs. All had horizontal filters.

Good stuff. I cut my teeth on old Farmalls and John Deeres. The Farmalls had had a cartridge filter that could not be pre-filled, and the Deeres had horizontal filters. Most of my light duty trucks (half tons through one tons) have had horizontal filters too. I'll see if I can dig up documentation on how much oil goes through the filter v. how much is by-passed.

I've heard that one all my life, and I grew up in a garage servicing everything farm related, and cars/trucks. But, I've never done it. Here's my logic, flawed as it may be...... If it were so important to pre-fill a filter, wouldn't the engine manufacturers make all the filters be mounted vertically? But, they do not. Besides, if you look at how oil filters, and oil flow within an engine really work, only about 10% of the oil goes through the filter, the rest being by-passed. Thus the name of the original oil filters, Purolater. Pure oil, sooner or later. Google it.

So, the myth of the 12k steer axle stems from the days when nearly all big trucks wore 10,00-20 tires, with a rim width of 7.5". The laws were written so that by measuring the rim or tire width, and applying that to a formula, you got your max axle load. With that old 10.00-20 it was 12k#. Then bigger tires and wheels, heavier axles, etc came into play. Look at cement trucks, dump trucks, and class "A" motorhomes. Many are now at the max single axle weight limit of 19k#. BTW, it's no coincidence that a 12k steer, and a pair of 34k tandems, (drive plus trailer) add up to 80k.

What's really painful to watch are your two minute turns.😁

I'll be 70 years young in a few weeks, and have never had a cdl. I got my "chauffer's" license when I turned 18, and didn't bother getting grandfathered to the cdl. I've driven trucks of all types, owned quite a few, and am accident free. That said, I've seen a lot of folks with cdl's that are just steering wheel holders. It tales more than a plastic card to make a safe driver. The best training I ever got was taking the Motorcycle Safety Foundation Experienced Rider course. I was so impressed, I took it a second time a few years later. I must say, most of the folks I've seen driving the rigs represented here, have been pretty good. Well, except one retired MD from Tennessee. He needs a long pull through so he can to a "long final" approach. Another myth, is that you can only weigh 12,000# on a steer axle. While that can be true, it certainly is not always the case. I let someone else fill in the blanks.

I assume you mean the Pete? Was it faster than the Ford? Remember, I was privileged enough to actually drive the Ford. There are exceptions to nearly every rule, but it seems unlikely that a land based vehicle could be loaded, and fast, enough to generate that much heat, unless someone was either negligent, stupid, or both. ie, redneck? Like me?

I googled "nitrogen aircraft tires" and found that in three cases, cargo planes had tires get hot enough that the tires gassed and reached auto-ignition temps, so the oxygen in the inflation air allowed them to go boom. Thus the FAA's reg for certain classes of commercial planes to use nitrogen to inflate. I can't imagine land based vehicles getting tires that warm.

And then there's the notion that you should let a diesel idle for "X" amount of time, or warm up for some random time. Whenever someone tells me I'm doing it wrong, I ask them if they've ever read an owners' manual for ANY diesel. or for any equipment. Last winter I had a guy telling me that in the oil fields, they rarely ever shut off trucks, and they'd been doing it that way for 40 years. I know of a guy who recently bought a diesel pickup from the Alaska oil fields. According to the on board display, it had run for over 90% of the time since it was new, but only had 40k miles on a 3 y/o truck. Keep in mind, it does warm up, somewhat, in the summer in Alaska.

Our Volvo did have cancelling turn signals. Our KW does not. Nor did our White or Mack. An old racer told me that back in the '50's and '60s, everyone carried nitrogen bottles on their converted one ton race haulers, to run impact wrenches, air up tires, etc. Easy to store cross ways under the car, and smaller than a gasoline powered air compressor. Folks thought if the racers are using nitrogen in their tires, it must be better.

So many factors in that equation..... Lets assume you mean on a tandem, for rv use. Will they wear out sooner? Of course. Will they outlast the rest of the truck? Probably, since they will likely still be loaded well within the design parameters. That one came up here years ago when wrknrver was criticized for his doing just that. Perhaps he'll drop by and give us a progress report. How about "why big trucks don't have self cancelling turn signals?" (our Volvo did).

I've seen them on ebay. You might also try an auto recycler (junk yard). Try to get 4 rears as rumor has it the 451 cars handle better that way.

Put your thinking caps on. I know there are more myths out there. I can think of a couple, but it's time for someone else to take a turn.

I think your link did a fine job. If anyone doesn’t understand it after reading the full link, they have no business operating a truck. Much less singling and charging customers.

I learned about it at Wheels Through Time museum. They use it on old motorcycles. It works great to rejuvenate old paint on antique cars and bikes. It's a lot cheaper if you buy it in the 5 gallon cans.

Beautifully done. Thanks G. H. Two myth's down, many to go.........

It's no more dead than the rear. If the rear was doing all the pulling, those tires would wear out more quickly, which they don't. I've heard others claim it's the rear axle that's dead. C'mon Tom, you've worked on plenty of trucks. Why is the front yoke so much beefier on the front axle than the rear? Cuz the power gets divided roughly equally. Do as I did, and google "live tandem truck axles". Myths die hard.

Spindrift, I think what he meant is that I am incorrect. But notice, I clearly wrote "live tandem", which in olde pharte lingo is a tandem which has two driving axles with power divider. I also referenced the possibility of using a factory single or a 6x2. So, I stand by my statement.

Agreed on the fuel consumption. We get anywhere from 6.5 to nearly 10 mpg, for short runs. But at the end of the day, an average of about 7.5-7.8 is normal, with a total gcvw of just under 50k#. And that's by hand calculation, not believing the lie-o-meter on the dash. But back to my original post, I just hit the tip of the iceberg with that one myth. There are lots more, but that one is fresh in my mind since it's been on the forum recently. It just bugs me that people who should know better, don't engage their brains and see how silly these ideas really are, and continue to toss them about.

Great catch Rocky. You bring a question that I doubt can be answered, but I'll counter with the question....why take the risk? It doesn't cost much to go to a junk yard and get a proper axle, or even better, start with a factory single or 6x2, as mentioned by Georgia in another thread.

May I ask why? You've already replaced all the wear parts.

In sitting around the campfire or chatting online with folks, I've heard lots of myths and flat out wrong ideas about large trucks, meaning our HDT's. So, in the interest of putting some of these incorrect ideas to rest, I invite everyone to listen, and comment, on things we've been taught, that just don't seem right. I'll start off with the myth that a "live tandem" (two drive axles in the rear) has one axle being the "drive" and the other just being along for the ride. UNTRUE. There is a gear case built into the front axle (called a Power Divider) which houses a differential, providing both axles with the same amount of input torque, so that both axles drive together. If one axle loses traction the power goes there, allowing that axle to spin. Unless, you engage the lock in the power divider, then once again, both axles receive equal input. Now the unfortunate part. For as long as I've been on this forum (14 years?), self proclaimed experts have been stating this myth, and worse, singling trucks by removing one axle. Did they not think that the reason they had to have special drive shafts made was because the remaining axle was never intended to have that much input torque? The proper way to single is to remove the tandem and replace it with a heavier axle built to handle the torque. Look at any factory single. I could name at least three participants of this forum who over the years have made this same mistake, and I can also point out customers who've experience axle failures because of it. Will they all fail? Of course not, but why do it wrong. even after it's been brought to your attention that you're providing a dis-service to the customer? So, I'll relinquish my soapbox so that someone else can expose other myths about these trucks.

Carl, crows foot and line wrenches are two different animals. A line wrench looks like a heavy duty box end with part cut away so you can slip it over the line. a crow's foot is just an open end wrench that uses square drives (think socket). I have several sets of line wrenches, from S-K to Crapsman, to Snap-on. I hate them all.