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Roof seam seperation - how to repair?


kmergen

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Just returned from a 10 week road trip, and while I was on the roof I noticed the stuff covering the seam where the roof appears to meet the cab has deteriorated/torn. It's happened in a couple of spots and other areas look as if they may soon do the same. What's the best way to take care of this? Dicor, Eternabond tape, both, something else? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

 

Going to try and attach a photo....

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One way is to buy a gallon of the white rubber (elastomeric) product sold at Home Depot and the 6 inch wide joint sealing fabric from the same manufacturer. Its not cheap, but that much should last you for years. I cut it down to about 2.5 inches wide and put a base coat on the joint first, then the fabric, then another coat of the product. Its tough and durable. Some folks will quibble about using it on rubber roofs etc. For my money, its the way to go. Be sure to clean the joints first.

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I have NEVER seen rubber elastomeric product sold at Home Depot that will work on RV roofs. Most are ACRYLIC products that will go on but will peel off in a short amount of time and are intended for buildings that dont move, RVs move!. Eternabond is OK but as I have said before, I see that as a repair until it can be dealt with properly. Consider using Liquid Roof, a catalyzed elastomeric solvent based coating designed for RV roof and their inherent movements, and use some polyester fabric that you can embed into the coating.

Be sure to clean the area including inside the crack (you may need to remove some of the caulk/sealer mechanically, a multi tool works well). Mineral spirits will do a good job of cleaning but dont apply any water or elastomeric until everything is dry including and esp inside the crack. A 4" chip brush is excellent to apply the product as it will get a good amount of material to the work area for the work. Remember that catalized coating have a short pot life, so work quickly and have everything ready before mixing it including masking off areas you DONT want coating.

NOTE: I am referring to a coating. This stuff is not a paint and if you buy a product that has the viscosity of paint, dont use it. You have the wrong stuff. You are coating the roof not painting it.

Marcel

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Dave,

I have experienced similar issues in the past. This is a simple repair. Remove the old caulk with a plastic hand tool designed for this purpose and re-apply new caulk. I have an EDPM roof so Dicor is what the manufacturer recommended. Check with your roof manufacturer for their recommendation. Not a bad idea to inspect all caulk joints every couple months.

Brad

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I would suggest Eternabond Tape. Make sure that the you clean the surfaces well. I cleaned and then used Eternabond Primer when I taped all of my seams four years ago. It is essentially a permanent "fix" to the issue of caulking this type of joint if you get it installed onto a clean surface.

Mark & Teri

2021 Grand Designs Imagine 2500RL, 2019 Ford F-350

Mark & Teri's Travels

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I don't use caulk on the roof anymore , except to fill a void left from cleaning the OEM stuff out . After that , I apply 'roof repair' tape ( like eternabond ) .

I did most of the vents and the shower sky light about 5 years ago , and maybe a year later , the rest . I haven't regretted it for a second .

I buy the tape at Menards . It's available 4" or 6" widths . At a fraction of the cost of Eternabond .

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Goes around , comes around .

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Eternabond will work well (or the equivalent). Make sure you get the wide tape if using that. And mechanically remove as much of the "gung" as possible. This will last a long time if properly applied. And requires little to no future maintenance.

 

BUT, a better repair is likely as described by rpsinc, above. I've used both methods and the latter is better repair. Both will work well, however.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
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The key to any roof repair job is proper preparation! The Eternabond video library has excellent information. One should use their cleaner and preparation spray cleaner.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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Nuff Said! Eternabond is absolutely the best and easiest way to go. Remove all the old caulk and junk on there, clean the surface really well, recaulk with some Dicor NON leveling, trowel it out nice and neat and let it dry, and then seal the job with the Eternabond 4" tape.

 

A buddy of mine had a branch tear through 10' of the roof about an inch wide, and he covered it with the Eternabond tape without even filling in the gap. It's still holding up fine four years later.

 

Good luck and be safe working up on the ladder!

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  • 1 month later...

Eternabond makes a product that has fabric on one side amd the sticky tape on the other. This is great especially if you want to put a coating over it, now you have a belt and suspenders application. No leaking through this, I was a restoration/waterproofer for 20 years.

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Eternabond makes a product that has fabric on one side amd the sticky tape on the other. This is great especially if you want to put a coating over it, now you have a belt and suspenders application. No leaking through this, I was a restoration/waterproofer for 20 years.

Not sure what product will adhere to the shiny side of Eternabond. I have tried a few including elastomerics and they dont adhere very long. What have you found that works on that Eternabond surface?

Marcel

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