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tyates007

Dometic Fridge has no power

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Went out tonight to start the fridge so I can pack and leave tomorrow. Well, no luck. Fridge is dead, no power at all. There is no lights on control panel or inside the fridge. I checked the outlets, all good. Checked all the fuses, all good. I am thinking it is the circuit board but have no idea how to test or where to go from here. This is a Dometic rm1350 4 door 2008 model. Any help on troubleshooting would be appreciated.

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Did you check the fuse on the back of the fridge on the circuit boards? Not just the ones in the main fuse panel. I was shocked to learn that the fridge had one in it. I had the same problem once and that solved the problem. I learned this from an RV tech that I called to see if they could come out ASAP as I was leaving on a trip the next day.

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Did you check the fuse on the back of the fridge on the circuit boards? Not just the ones in the main fuse panel. I was shocked to learn that the fridge had one in it. I had the same problem once and that solved the problem. I learned this from an RV tech that I called to see if they could come out ASAP as I was leaving on a trip the next day.

I found 3 fuses on the back of the fridge. There were 2 blade style fuses and one automotive style glass fuse. Two of the three were under the circuit board cover. All fuses tested good visually and for continuity.

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I found 3 fuses on the back of the fridge. There were 2 blade style fuses and one automotive style glass fuse. Two of the three were under the circuit board cover. All fuses tested good visually and for continuity.

Was 12 VDC present at the rear of the fridge? There is a small terminal board just forward of the circuit board on the floor with V+ & Gnd.

 

Our fridge is fed directly from the main 12VDC distribution area near the batteries & bypasses the AC/DC distribution panel so I would check for fuses/circuit breakers there as well. I can't say our unit is typical as each Mfg. has their own method & plan.

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The lights and all control functions of your refrigerator are powered by 12V-dc from the RV battery/12V system. That is also true for your interior lights in the RV so the first hint is if those lights will turn on and at proper brightness? Did you check for 12V or more at the RV batteries? If it is there, then you need to check for 12V at the refrigerator connections. It is highly unlikely that something in the refrigerator failed while it was turned off. An RV refrigerator must have a good 12V-dc power supply for it to be able to work from either 120V-ac or from propane. The lack of any display or refrigerator interior light tells me that it is not getting 12V power.

 

My best guess is that the problem is in the 12V supply, not the refrigerator at this point, but we need more information to do anything more than guess. Did you take any voltage readings while you were checking fuses? You should read 12V across the 3a fuse holder when you remove that fuse.

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Thx for all the replies. I will check for 12 volt across the fuse. All lights and other function of the RV worked on battery power. I will check battery and fuse location for power across fuse.

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I'm in agreement with the good gents who question whether or not a good 12 VDC SOURCE is present at the very INPUT to the fridge there on its rear where the 12 VDC supply makes its initial entrance????????? Its good you checked the 12 VDC distribution panel (and any fuse to fridge) where all the fuses are that serve the entire coach,. If 12 VDC is present there and through any fuse (or a branch circuit) to the fridge, it ought to be present at the very input to the fridge itself unless there's a bad ground or a wiring or terminal problem/open. NOTE I cant know sitting here if your fridge is powered direct from your battery bank (and it should also be fuse protected even if not via the panel) ORRRRRRRRR via the 12 VDC distribution panel, but much of that below still holds true YOU GOTTA HAVE GOOD NON RESISTIVE 12 VOLTS TO THE FRIDGE ITSELF.

 

Are all the other 12 VDV circuits operative such as vent fans and water pumps and lights etc????

When you checked those fridge circuit board fuses, where you maintain they are okay, is 12 VDC present there???

 

I once had an inoperative fridge (ignitor board wouldnt fire nor open the gas valve) and had Dinosaur Electronics on the phone helping me troubleshoot AND WAS WARNED LOW VOLTAGE, even though approx. 12 VDC measured on a crude meter existed, could disable the electronic circuitry. Moral of the story, what matters is what voltage exists once a load is actually applied, as a bad/loose/resistive yet not totally open connection in the fridges 12 VDC supply circuit would still indicate the presence of 12 volts, UNTIL a load were applied and current flowed (V = I x R) . IE even if fuses are okay and 12 unloaded volts appears initially, ITS STILL POSSIBLE A LOOSE OR BAD CONNECTION EXISTS in the supply circuit. However, the electronic control circuitry requires low current (while gas solenoid valve does) as compared to what any 12 VDC (if the fridge even has that feature which many dont???) heater would, which makes me suspect more along the lines THERES NO 12 VOLTS PERIOD versus a bad/resistive connection as the problem.

 

If the loaded supply (no loose connections) and all fuses are good but still no operation, then I'm out to lunch as the electronic circuitry or cards or boards etc. may be at fault. AS ALWAYS A BAD GROUND CAN ALSO CAUSE ALL SORTS OF PROBLEMS grrrrrrrrrrrr

 

DOES IT MATTER IF THE COACH IS PLUGGED INTO SHORE POWER (I'm thinking about the low voltage condition I mentioned)

 

HAVE YOU JIGGLED OR REMOVED OR MESSED WITH OR INSURED A GOOD FIT AT THE EYEBROW PANEL

 

Best wishes

 

John T Live from San Diego

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A good place to start if you want to trouble shoot the refrigerator is to visit Bryan RV and download a copy of the 1350 service manual, which is free. The 12V power connection to your refrigerator is a terminal block which is shown in a drawing on page 18 of the manual and it is also in this photograph.

DM2652LBX-Control-Board-area-800x624_thu

The white plastic terminals are what you see in the drawing and in this case the power is two white wires, but RV manufacturers do not have a standardized wire color code.

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So I have traced the 12v through the whole system now. Battery to terminal to 12v in lower control board through fuse to 12v out lower control board to eye brow board. There is consistent reading through the whole system. I checked continuity between solder joints on all switches on control board. No luck. Still no life in fridge. I do not see a fridge fuse in main panel, just on fridge. I unplugged from ac power to do all the testing. Battery is showing 11.8 volts resting which is what the reading is every where. Would 11.8 be low enough to cause issues?

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From the service manual that can be found in the link above, page 18, DC power requirements...

 

The operational range of the unit is a minimum of 9.6 volt DC to a maximum of 22 volts DC. The unit will automatically shut down at 22 DC volts or greater, and come back on when voltage has decreased to 18 volts DC. The refrigerator requires at least 9.6 volts DC for proper operation, however the panel lights will continue to be illuminated until voltage has dropped to 4 volts DC or below.

The 11.8V is a bit low as far as the battery condition is concerned but not low enough to account for the refrigerator not working.The schematic on page 22 shows a 4a fuse in the red wire between the 12V supply and the relay which could be part of the problem if you have not checked it. That is in addition to the 3a (dc) and 5a (ac) fuses located on the power circuit board. On page 4 of the manual there is a trouble shooting guide that lists the following:

No operation - no panel lights


DC Volts
Fuse
Wiring
Control Panel
LED Display Board
Lower Circuit Board

 

Each of those suggested problems then has a reference to the appropriate page for instructions in what to check next.

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Thanks Kirk. I went to the website you suggested and downloaded the manual. I tested everything from the battery to the fridge. Everything checked out per the test so I know I am missing something and I'm sure it's simple. The only thing I can't test for sure is the led readout that the switch plugs in to. I see no where where that would shut down the fridge though. Right now we will throw in a block of ice and sleep for the night. Maybe tomorrow after some more driving my head will clear and I will think of something I missed.

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Yates, you ask "Would 11.8 be low enough to cause issues?"

 

YES that could cause some "issues" (but even at 11.8 or lower LED's or other indicators should at least do something)

 

11.8 volts sounds awfully LOW for your "battery voltage" and Dinosaur Electronics (when they helped me troubleshoot my Dometic) indicated low voltage could cause the control board to NOT open the gas valve and fire the ignitor HOWEVER that doesn't explain a condition where nothing lights up whatsoever???????? How accurate is your voltmeter??? A good full charged 12 volt battery at rest and stabilized should read around 12.6 volts, 12 is like 50% discharged, and 11.8 is low for a charged battery.

 

SEE WHAT THE VOLTAGE DOES WITH THE BATTERY CHARGER OPERATING

 

Probably something simple were all overlooking but not being there its just hard to say. Kirk sent you the manual so go with its recommendations versus over the net guesses lol. I do remember Dinosaur talking about circuit boards and the eyebrow panel on mine could be the problem. The main thing I learned about how low voltage could affect circuit control board functions on my Dometic fridge was when the tech asked if I had a good voltmeter and I responded so far I ONLY used a test lamp whereupon he respond NOOOOOOOOOOOOO WAY a few tenths of low voltage can disenable the control board especially when it comes to ignitor and gas valve operation for safety purposes SO LOW VOLTAGE CAN CAUSE ISSUES according to that tech at least, but I cant guarantee such on all makes and models of course or that technicians knowledge. Just for the fun of it, Id still measure voltages and observe what happens if plugged into shore power and the battery charger raises battery voltage!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Let us know what you find, it may help others in the future

 

John T

Edited by oldjohnt

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Still no update. Ran complete trouble shoot per the repair manual. Everything seems to check out. Right now I have bypassed the control board and fridge is working on 110 but obviously I have no control. Right now just trying to save food till someone can figure it out. I had a tech look at it today. He is scratching his head as well. He thinks he has a spare board we are going to swap out and try.

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I know it's been a while but here is an uneventful update. Both I and a tech have traced the wiring from battery to board, board to fridge and back and everything seems to have 12 volts running to it. I can bypass the board and the fridge will run. Just changed out the board and no luck, brow board still not showing any power or control. I guess I'll take to another shop and see what they can find. This is very frustrating because there has been no problems to this point. It still acts like a switch or a fuse is off or blown or a wire has come loose as there is nothing, no light in the fridge, nothing. Just likes its unplugged. If anyone else has any ideas before I move to another shop I would appreciate it. Thanks, Tom.

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So i have identified the issue. There is a second control board where the LED panel is. That board was dead. Replaced the upper control board and fridge powered back up. I don't know if this is common or not. I know every tech I talked to was sure it was the circuit board on the back of the fridge.

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So i have identified the issue. There is a second control board where the LED panel is. That board was dead. Replaced the upper control board and fridge powered back up. I don't know if this is common or not. I know every tech I talked to was sure it was the circuit board on the back of the fridge.

Just saw your thread; that brow board had to be replaced in my Norcold 1200LRIM, as I had the same problem in 2013.

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Tom, is that "brow board" (as RayIN called it) above the freezer on the inside of the RV really small? Like only 4 resistors, something else, the two switches and the two led lights?

 

Mine is doing exactly as you described. I've done most of the checks you described.

I pulled the tiny brow board and examined it, nothing looks burnt or has bad connections. Worth having tested? How much was the new one and where did you find it?

 

Thanks to any response.

~lobi

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I'm having the exact same problem with my 2652, I'm 7 hours from home with a fridge and freezer full of food.   How do you by pass the control board?  Any help would be great, thanks!

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hello I am having the same problem with my fridge that the lights wont work and I changed fuses and also tested the volts. Does anyone know any other ideas that I can try really don't want to take it to the rv dealer. My brother in law is willing to help me work on it. It is a dometic fridge mod number DM2652LB1.. any help would be great thanks so much

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Welcome to the Escapee forums! 

You really haven't given us much to go on but here is a link to the service manual for your refrigerator . I suggest looking at the troubleshooting section in the front of the manual. If you tell us a bit more of the symptoms we could probably help more. Is there any odor of ammonia in the refrigerator inside or in the back? If you open the back can you see any yellow residue anywhere?

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7 minutes ago, Kirk Wood said:

Welcome to the Escapee forums! 

You really haven't given us much to go on but here is a link to the service manual for your refrigerator . I suggest looking at the troubleshooting section in the front of the manual. If you tell us a bit more of the symptoms we could probably help more. Is there any odor of ammonia in the refrigerator inside or in the back? If you open the back can you see any yellow residue anywhere?

Hello sorry no there is no odor of ammonia in the fridge and non in the back. and when we opened the back there is no yellow residue. The fridge turned on and was running and then a couple hours later there were no lights on for the fridge we tried to change the fuses and also tested the  volts and they are all reading also the breaker wasnt tripped

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The lack of anything on the display lists 4 things to check.

Quote

DC Volts,  Fuse,  Wiring,  Upper Circuit Board, &  Lower Circuit Board

Have you verified that there is 12V-dc power at the terminal block in the rear of the refrigerator? You should find that terminal block on the floor of the space inside of the rear access panel and usually, it is to the left side, near the 120V power outlet. If you do not have power there, you must find what the course is. In most cases, there is a fuse on the  RV's 12V distribution panel that supplies it. There is also a 3A fuse on the main circuit board for the 12V supply. Either of those will give the symptom that you have. 

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