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About lenp

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  • Birthday 10/05/1945

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  1. If your frig is working (cooling properly) why would you want to change the cooling unit????? Wait until it fails. Lenp
  2. How Long Will Refrigerator Run

    If you could beef up the charging line from the TV you would get a few more amps back to the trailer and probably keep the batteries fully charged. OR, install a couple of solar panels on the roof. I have 750 watts on the roof that will supply all my needs (including the Samsung refer) if I can get 4-5 hours of sun every day. Lenp
  3. Firefox Quatum

    been using it about a week as secondary browser (Chrome is primary). No issues yet. Lenp
  4. Dogbone versus flat adapter

    That extension cord should be at least 12 gauge wire if you want to run the heater on high. Even then it may get a little warm. Lenp
  5. Generator front cover on motorhome

    Could you get the wood out of the existing fiberglass and then install fresh wood followed by some new fiberglass (all on the inside)? This would require some fiberglass work but it is not that hard to do. Lenp
  6. The part I replaced is called a thermal fuse but could easily be considered a "high limit" switch. It is there to prevent overheating of the defrost heater as masterdrago indicated but it is not a thermistor. Is is a thermal fuse that opens if it gets too hot. I suspect ksmedley's failure was the exact same thing I had. Lenp
  7. RV storage tips

    If you have access to power while in storage you might try a rope light under the coach. Pack rats do not like light. I have 12 volt LED lights in the front and rear of my MH and have not had a problem. Saw several rigs at The Ranch (Lakewood) using the rope lights with success. Lenp
  8. Solar & portable heater questions

    Why do you want to cover the solar panels? Leave them exposed and let them keep your batteries topped. As for heaters, that extension cord is going to limit the wattage you can use for electric heat. 14 gauge you can probably run a small portable electric on set for MEDIUM heat but I would not recommend running it on HIGH - connections and cord probably would get pretty warm. Even on medium you will not have any spare amperage for other items. Lenp
  9. Still having b attery problems

    All the negative battery leads should be tied together and then connected at the BATTERY side of the shunt. You could wire all battery negatives together and then one cable to the shunt or all three batteries negative terminals could be connected to one side of the shunt and then ONE lead goes from other side of the shunt to the chassis. All current must travel through the shunt. Here is a diagram of mine: Lenp
  10. Still having b attery problems

    Doesn't "RV" stand for "Repair Vehicle"? Lenp
  11. Installed the switch last night and it works! This morning ambient was 61 and set point was 72 when I turned the heat pump on this morning. Heat pump came on and took about 40 minutes to get coach up to the set point. Gas furnace never came on. Mission accomplished. Lenp
  12. Still having b attery problems

    On your trip to Alaska you should be charging the batteries every day your driving and you will probably be getting them close to 100% after a few hours of travel. Another thing to keep in mind is to try not to let them get below the 50% level. I read an article several years ago claiming battery life would be greatly enhanced by keeping them above that level. Article stated a batter taken from the 90% to the 10% SOC would last roughly 200 cycles. Keeping them between 90% and 50% will result in a 2000 cycle live - ten times longer. Fact or fiction? I can tell you the last set of six Trojan T105 batteries (in my last rig) lasted over eight years and were still going strong when I replaced them. Only reason I replaced them is I made a mistake when topping them off and grabbed the white vinegar instead of distilled water. Lenp
  13. Thanks to all who replied. I am going to go forth and give it a try. I cannot see any issues other than it may not like it when outside temps drop too low. Simple fix at that time is to flip the added switch to the ON (enable gas) position. It will be a few days before I make the change as I need to get a drill bit the correct size for the switch. Will keep you posted. Vern, the thermostat connects with a 3x3 and a 1x3 molex. The 1x3 has only ground, 12vdc and GAS enable wires. I plan to cut the gas wire and insert the switch. The heat pump itself operates via the 3x3 with things such as inside fan high, inside fan low, compressor 1, compressor 2, 12 volts, ground, and a few others. The heat pump control board IS NOT connected the gas furnace in any way - only the thermostat is connected via the 3x1 connector. Only one zone is controlled by this thermostat. The second "zone" (bedroom) is actually a second gas furnace controlled by a separate thermostat. This second zone is rarely used. Lenp
  14. Still having b attery problems

    Line 13 makes a little more sense now. Thanks. To properly measure the charge and discharge of your batteries ALL of the circuits should pass through the "sense" module. My Pantametric unit has a 0.001 ohm shunt that is wired between the negative terminals of the batteries and ground. All loads and charging equipment connect directly to ground so everything is passing through the shunt. If someone rewired your negative side and bypassed the "sense" module (shunt??) all of your charge and discharge measurement are going to be inaccurate. If your numbers are accurate I don't see a real problem. As I noted earlier, mine will drop down to around 70% if I run both the frig and the freezer. Frig alone it drops to around 80% just like your seeing. Lenp
  15. I am thinking of making a modification to my heat pump thermostat wiring and would like some of you knowledgeable folks to share your thoughts. When heating, the way the system works if the thermostat set point is more than three (3) degrees higher than room temperature, it will activate BOTH the heat pump and the gas furnace. Early in the morning it is usually significantly more than three degrees below the desired temperature of 72 resulting in both heat pump and gas furnace coming on. In the past I have "slowly" raised the set point to avoid the gas furnace firing up but that is a pain. I am thinking of simply installing a switch in the thermostat wiring that sends 12 volts to the gas furnace (the white lead). With that installed the gas furnace should NEVER come on (in the OFF position). Only drawback I see is the thermostat has a heat pump lockout feature that disables the heat pump (if I read it correctly) if the heat pump cannot keep up with demand - gas is repeatedly called forn three times. This should not occur (again, if I am reading the manual correctly) as long as the heat pump is able to maintain. I don't think it will be a problem because I don't even try to run the heat pump if temperature (outside) is below 35-40 degrees (depending on humidity). Thanks for your thoughts, Lenp