Jump to content

Pappy Yokum

Validated Members
  • Content Count

    434
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Pappy Yokum

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Optional Fields

  • Lifetime Member
    No

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Trabuco Canyon,CA
  • Interests
    Motorcycle racing, ATVs, water/snow skiing, sky diving

Recent Profile Visitors

3,810 profile views
  1. Yes on the first Q. Won't make an attempt on the other Q's - but see the link I added to my post - and be sure to see the dark print in the (scroll down to) section - "Do these vehicles have to stop at scales". Chances are if "your friend" tows with a vehicle falling into the GVWR listed - he may find out the answers "first hand", LOL. Although (IMO) the CHP, who operates weigh stations, won't bother to "chase down" a pickup driver who failed to stop at the scales.......that being said - maybe back to the DOUBLE tow "red flag". IMO - I would ask at a CHP office - and make sure whomever is on the desk is "up to speed" on commercial regs. Best of luck to "your friend". ~
  2. "My friend (uncle, cousin, neighbor, etc.) does it all the time from point (state) A to point (state) B with no problems! Location, location, location!! As in the post from NY, the California Hwy Patrol will cite for double tow - UNLESS the tow and the operator meet the requirements for same: Length, tow vehicle - AND correct DL. The DL requirements are a CDL. The tow vehicle must be at least a one ton. Overall length not over 65 ft. Are the requirements ever ignored in CA? - Sure..... however a double tow is a red flag - especially in locations such as Pismo and Glamis dunes! Vehicles (single) towing toy haulers are regularly stopped to see if the operator has a NON-Commercial Class A license for a trailer with a GVW over 15K. Also - the combination is required to stop at scales. See: CA DOT: "Who must stop at scales" - for specifics, which *does* include "pickups" over certain GVWR - and/or with a flat bed or utility body - even though signage states "No Pickups". http://www.dot.ca.gov/trafficops/trucks/weigh-stations.html ("Weigh Stations - Enforcement Facilities") - - Scroll down to: "Do these vehicles have to stop at scales" for surprising? "pickups" details! In more urban areas - the CHP "usually" has (or "may have") other higher priorities. Note: "usually" - and "may have". Folks (single) towing boats to the Colorado River (popular location) are also stopped for speeding violations (55mph for towing) - and then req's for a Non-Com Class A DL - if boat & trlr weight req's same. Soooooo - know the law (and reciprocity) for the areas where you plan to double tow, etc. ~
  3. My '06 Jayco Designer ("evolved" into "Pinnacle") had a 2 year factory warranty. NEVER had any issues - never needed the warranty for anything. ~
  4. I'll have to disagree with the long bed folks - on a/the rather short "preference poll". Had both. First truck was a Ford 1-T, Crew Cab. Just didn't need the 8' bed. Now have a short bed (1-T, quad cab, Ram CTD, SRW). Yes - I have an auto slider - and have had it 90 degrees or sure close to it with no problems. The truck is great as a daily driver. The (previous) Ford long bed was the last long bed for me! BTW - I tow a 34' Jayco. 5th. Best answer is - buy what *YOU* prefer - and what will work best for *YOU* ~
  5. ROTFL - "Roadtrek1" joined a discussion on which engine would be the preferred engine in an HDT - on the HDT forum. He "chastised" the folks for THEIR choice of RV - and went to great length to explain what he has (Sprinter) is best. Although several posters explained "different strokes for different folks" - he just doesn't seem to "get it". Now for the Mea Culpa: I suggested he return to the General RV information and ask how many folks full time, part time, etc. - which he took to heart....and apparently did so. I should know better than to encourage a probable "troll" - Sorry - My bad! HDT forum........ "entertainment"? http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/135435-preferred-engine-tell-me-which-one-and-why/ ☚ī¸
  6. Well there ya go, Roadtrek1 - you have your next question for another thread in the General RV Information Forum !! "How many of you are full timers?? Then you can start another thread...."How many of you are part timers?" BTW - at one time or another......some of us have spent a week or ten days in a tent. Of course that leads to yet another thread....."How many of you camped in tents before you had an RV?" 😁..😁..
  7. Yikes! - and Gee Whiz! - I sure hope that's common sense/knowledge! Along with baking soda.......but *not* baking powder. BTW - "The Firefighter" and the several other "aerosol can" style extinguishers - (IMO) if it doesn't have a gauge - it's a roll of the dice whether charged or not. Wonder how many (of you) remember when you were kids and mom or pop had a "pump type" Carbon Tet extinguisher? It would knock out your grease fire - and the fumes would do the same to you! Nice spot remover though. Also, "back when", the Military loved the large wheeled Chloro-bromo-methane extinguishers for AC Fires. Use one of those and you would wish you hadn't. 😀
  8. Is... "Freightshaker"... acceptable?? Ignorance is blizz. ~
  9. Highly recommend Vancouver Island, BC. Suggest you go from the US (Washington State) to Canada - then from (mainland) Vancouver to Vancouver Island - utilizing the Canadian Ferries. The Canadian ferries are *outstanding* - compared to the one (US company ownership) from Port Angeles to Vancouver Island. Summer travel from Port Angeles to Victoria (Vancouver Isl.) can be hectic due to lots of tourists - and the ferry company packs the vehicles in like a can of sardines! Not so - on the large Canadian ferries. Did both - absolutely no comparison! ~
  10. IMO - "Suspect" the small extinguishers Mac sold were of a combination foam type. Go to Amazon and enter in "search": " Mini Firefighter MFF01", also "The Fireman". Be sure to read the questions regarding these extinguishers which are rated ABCK Note: Extinguishers are normally UL rated A = ordinary combustibles - wood, paper. B = Flammable liquids. C = Electrical. D = combustible metals (ex: Magnesium). "K" is a new one on me - they claim it's for grease, fats, etc. Apparently "Mini Firefighter" does not have a complete UL rating, and is NOT acceptable (at this time) by the USCG. "The Fireman" clams to have a complete UL rating. However, "dewilso", *IF* you want a serious extinguisher -and are willing to *pay* for it- look into Halotron (substitute for Halon extinguishers). Some variants of Halon are still acceptable for aircraft interiors. Halotron seems to be the best alternate to those. Can be used on all types of fires - NO mess and easy cleanup - but expensive! (Can also be found on Amazon) The less expensive -but not cheap- (portable extinguisher, NO mess alternate) is still C02. Normally a C02 extinguisher will not have an "A" rating (ordinary combustibles) - but it WILL extinguish same. Of course, they are re-chargable. "Sandysis" - SMALL dry chem (dry powder) extinguishers are found in new RVs, as they are a cheap substitute for something better (bean counters win!) - and are usually about a 2# with a BC rating - as well as the first thing I remove! The ABC extinguishers (found in the big box stores) are 10# ABC - and get the "A" rating due to the quantity of agent ("media" for "Dewilso"). And yes - the 2 BC just make a smaller mess than a 10# ABC. Stop by your local fire station. Firefighters are happy to offer advice - and are usually cognizant of new products, etc. BTW - I also prefer a "no mess" extinguisher for an interior fire at my S&B or inside my RV - including engine fires.. The dry chem is for everything else -"other" real emergencies, etc. Also, putting wet stuff (water) on the red stuff (fire) is still a GREAT "media" - or - "agent"..... if available!..😎 ~
  11. He posted the above (in this thread) on April 4th. Maybe an assistant Mod (or?) could close the thread?...😉 ~
  12. PM sent - another who would like to know how it has worked out for you - your opinions, comments, etc. ~
  13. Visit the General RV Information forum. It will be readily apparent "Roadtrek 1" is chock full of a series of endless questions - but somehow - on the HDT forum- he's chock full of "know it all" - as what HE has is the best for everyone. Just add an "L" on the end of the word...."Drive" - and ignore the peanut gallery !!..🐘 😀
  14. we were posting at the same time.... See the link I added to my post (previous to yours). Real eye-opener! Maybe it's a "what if" - and or "Murphy's Law".....bottom line - besides the detectors & extinguishers, have the - GET OUT - RIGHT NOW - EXIT PLAN !! ~
  15. 30 years in the Fire Service. Smoke detectors are the best life insurance you can have! Will "pay" YOU with YOUR life - not a beneficiary. Having said that - I installed the "inter-connected" (WiFi) kiddie detectors in my S&B a couple of years ago. *VERY* disappointed in the battery life of the 3 AAA batts, as compared to the "old style" 9V. ("months" - not anywhere close to a year). Removed ALL the inter-connected detectors (powered by 3-AAA) , and went back to the "single station" type. Don't know about a different (newer) power source - the single units (found everywhere) now have 10yr lithium batts. BTW - forget who the mfgr was, but at one time there was a detector that was activated (only) by heat, which was intended for use in S&B garage. Unfortunately (for RVs), as I recall it was hard-wired to 110V. ************************************ Why you need to get out sooner than ...RIGHT NOW !! Extinguishers and garden hose connected are secondary to the above......when this happens: http://rvnetwork.com/topic/130707-trailer-fire-need-some-help-please/ Randy posed a second thread with more fire photos - which may still be available on Facebook. ~
×
×
  • Create New...