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Air supply for new TS hitch???


rpsinc

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I am installing a new hitch as the one that was on my truck(not sure what brand but had Binkley head and only 1 bag) wont handle the NH trailer we now have.  The air supply that was used was from the trailer air supplied through the red knob on the dash.  Seems I cant drive with that activated though, dash has a fit and notifies me to stop.

So, finished the mechanical install of the hitch and figured I'd use the air to the rear bags(I'm still tandem) but I can get the pressure I need to fill the bags.  I am using a mechanical regulator instead of the Air Lift one that TS supplies.  I believe the the Air Lift regulators need power to work as well as air, but not sure where I would pick up the air near the cab of the truck(Volvo730).  Are the rear air bags using full truck air pressure or am I wasting my time trying to use that supply for the hitch.  Some testing seems to indicate that I need around 65PSI for my trailer, so...

what is my best option to pick up air for the hitch?  Are the air bags seeing full truck air pressure? If yes, then why cant I get my hitch bags to inflate?  Maybe it would be better to just use the supplies Air Lift regulator, which I will, just running low on time and trying to reduce the work load.

Marcel

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I don't know about the air supply, but the TS regulator only needs electricity for the light.  I left mine out and only plumbed the air to it.  I'm using the air for my inter axle lock, as I'm singled.

My simple mind says that if you splice into the rear bags before the leveling valve, you should have full pressure available.  If you splice in after, you'll get whatever pressure is required to level the rear end and is in the bags.  But I'm no expert, by any means.

2001 VNL 660

2018 DRV Fullhouse JX450

2018 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

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I use the air from the sliding hitch release.  The air is controlled by a switch on the dash.  Assuming your original truck hitch has been removed, try mashing the switch and see if you hear air at the rear.

 

Chet & Deb
'01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart
'19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel
2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed
Retired CWO4, USN and federal service
Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist

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6 hours ago, aknavy said:

My simple mind says that if you splice into the rear bags before the leveling valve, you should have full pressure available.  If you splice in after, you'll get whatever pressure is required to level the rear end and is in the bags.  But I'm no expert, by any means.

Correct.  That's how we did it.

But, going back to using the red knob:  Why does that make the truck unhappy?  If you were pulling a trailer with air brakes, that's how you'd be running.

And Chet, the newer trucks don't like the sliding fifth wheel supply being activated when you're running.  On our Volvo, it just turned on a yellow light, but on the KW (17 years newer) it has a hissy fit.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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Don't know if my '01 Volvo would complain while running. After I air up the hitch, I shut off a valve I added on the hitch and release the slider switch.  I don't have a leveling valve on the TS hitch so constant air is not required.

 

 

Chet & Deb
'01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart
'19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel
2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed
Retired CWO4, USN and federal service
Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist

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Ah, forgot you have a newer truck...so no idea why the red button would cause problems.  Maybe because it's sensing something wrong with the connection, as it's not supplying air to a trailer?  Pure speculation.

My truck is old, it doesn't care one way or the other about the trailer brake - on/off, makes no difference.  I release it due to the speculation that the brakes are better if the truck "thinks" it has a trailer.

2001 VNL 660

2018 DRV Fullhouse JX450

2018 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

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My truck is an '08 and I dont know why it is acting this way but thanks for the info as I now know why I have reduced pressure from my tie in point at the air bags, its after the leveling valve.  So truck is doing what it is supposed to, it seems.  I have the other air line sitting there and will try to see if I can repurpose it to the TS, if not then cab air tie in it is.

Marcel

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You need full air pressure to run air hitches, 125 psi. Either from unused hitch slide, although on newer trucks this will generate an alarm. Or, correctly, tap into the supply line to the suspension leveling valve. Will have to dump all air out it to do it. DO NOT USE THE LINES GOING TO THE AIR BAGS FROM THE LEVELING VALVE. You will never have sufficient pressure in those lines. Your hitch airbags need 50-65 psi, your suspension airbags fully loaded will be around 30.

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Add a leveling valve and you will forever be glad you did.  I did it many years ago and posted some pics here.  A search may get them to pop up.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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18 hours ago, Nigel said:

There is a levelling valve on the cab bags as well so make sure you grab the air before the valve. 

Well, Nigel, while on my back and looking at those lines, I wondered about that very thing.  Yep, before the valve and pulled a brand new air line from the valve input to the regulator at the new TS hitch.  Works like a champ.  1 item done on my list of a few hundred.  Dad used to tell me that a man walked around the world 1 step at a time.  Well, I am steppin'!!

Marcel

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