Dometic DM2652 Thermofuse

[ceeminor]

Hi All,

I'm new to this forum but have been very impressed with the technical insight I've read so I thought I'd give my current issue a post to see if anyone had any insight.

I own a 2015 Keystone Outback with a Dometic DM2652 Refrigerator that has recently lost all 12VDC power (no display lights, fridge lights, and doesn't work on electric or propane). I'm an electrical engineer and have read through the schematics and found that there is a thermofuse between the J4 pin and 12VDC terminal block I can jumper out that completely solves the problem. However, I know that a thermofuse is a safety device and don't want to leave it jumpered out forever.

My issue is that I don't know how to access the thermofuse that has popped. It is NOT the one located on the burner chimney. This one is located (I believe) within the refrigerator itself, atleast that's where I have chased the wire to before I lose it. I have attached an image of the schematic with the thermofuse I'm currently jumpering out and trying to find circled. 

Does anyone know how I can access this to change it? Or is this some fatal flaw in the design and I'll have to buy a new refer someday?

Thanks for the help!

Edited September 25, 2019 by ceeminor

[Wrknrvr]

 Real quick I think they are talking about the thermistor on the fins.

 That controls the unit to operate or not.

 My first thought,.  Vern

 

 my next thought is i am wrong.

 

 

Edited September 25, 2019 by Wrknrvr

[oldjohnt]

Sorry NO I don't know where its at but hope to learn from someone on here. HOWEVER I'm happy to meet a fellow Electrical Engineer on here especially one who posts a schematic yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy

Best wishes

John T  BSEE,JD currently in Indiana

[Wrknrvr]

 This may help with diagnostics on your unit.

 

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/1252service.pdf

 

. Safe Travels,.  Vern

[SCClockDr]

Howdy

Sorry you are having issues. Below is a youtube video for a different model Dometic but May provide a clue as to what you are looking for. (Red wire into a black plastic tube)

 

Edited September 25, 2019 by SCClockDr

[Kirk W]

In looking at the schematic that is in my service manual for a 2652, I see a very different schematic than what you have shown. 

 

[ceeminor]

1 hour ago, SCClockDr said:

Howdy

Sorry you are having issues. Below is a youtube video for a different model Dometic but May provide a clue as to what you are looking for. (Red wire into a black plastic tube)

 

Unfortunately this is the thermofuse I have already checked. This fuse was functioning properly. The thermofuse I'm looking for is located somewhere else within the refer. Thanks for your help though!

[Darryl&Rita]

Kirk, your manual is from an older version. 

Ceeminor, the thermal fuse I'm familiar with looks like a resistor, connected via spade terminals, with a clear plastic tube to protect from short circuits. This is represented in your schematics by item "Y". Item "F", I have no experience with. Item Y should be found close to the firebox.

[ceeminor]

1 hour ago, Kirk W said:

In looking at the schematic that is in my service manual for a 2652, I see a very different schematic than what you have shown. 

 

Interesting. Are you sure you're looking at the DM2652 and not the RM? I got the model number off of my refrigerator then found it directly in the provided manual.

[ceeminor]

1 minute ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Kirk, your manual is from an older version. 

Ceeminor, the thermal fuse I'm familiar with looks like a resistor, connected via spade terminals, with a clear plastic tube to protect from short circuits. This is represented in your schematics by item "Y". Item "F", I have no experience with. Item Y should be found close to the firebox.

Thanks for the info! Do you know where I can find this firebox? I chased the wire from the 12VDC terminal block all the way into the inside of the back of the refrigerator and lose it there as I can't see the interior part of the refrigerator.

[Darryl&Rita]

23 minutes ago, ceeminor said:

Thanks for the info! Do you know where I can find this firebox? I chased the wire from the 12VDC terminal block all the way into the inside of the back of the refrigerator and lose it there as I can't see the interior part of the refrigerator.

The box that has the fire inside. Base of the chimney stack. 

[Darryl&Rita]

https://www.tandyonline.com/128-c-thermal-fuse.html

[ceeminor]

Thanks for everyone's help! This forum is great!

[Kirk W]

4 hours ago, ceeminor said:

Interesting. Are you sure you're looking at the DM2652 and not the RM?

That is it exactly. The link that I posted was for the RM series. I don't recall having dealt with any of the DM series but I did find them listed on the net for sale. I sent an email to Chris Bryant to as about them as there seems to be a big difference. 

 

4 hours ago, Darryl&Rita said:

The box that has the fire inside. Base of the chimney stack. 

I looked at the fuse in your link and it looks exactly like the one that water heaters have for safety if the burner should flash-back. Is it the same?

[rocksbride]

CEEMINOR,

This thread might be helpful. Start with first post, even though the link opens near the end of the thread.  Enjoy the read:

 http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/130797-no-power-on-dometic-fridge-model-rm-2652/?tab=comments#comment-937589 

Edited September 27, 2019 by rocksbride

[Kirk W]

If you are still watching this thread, I just conversed with Chris Bryant of Bryant RV Service and he tells me a bunch that I didn't know about these refrigerators. First, on the issue of RM series versus the DM: "Because they just used a single digit for the year, they were making 2015 units with the same serial numbers as 2005 units, so they changed the model number to DM." 

 That left me with questions about the fact that I found several different schematics for those refrigerators and when I asked about that he said "That thermofuse is enclosed in heatshrink, located right next to the burner- part of the recall, which turned in to a redesign. They really have a bunch of different wiring schemes, which are different product numbers, rather than model numbers.