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KW T2000 Battery Cables?


tyates007

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Time has come to change battery cables on the KW. Right now I have 4 batteries, 2 banks of 2 in parallel with a cable from each bank running to starter. So I have 2 positive cables and 2 negative cables combined at the starter. I am wondering if I need to leave it like this or if I can put all 4 batteries in a single bank and the run 1 positive and 1 negative to starter. I also want to put a battery disconnect in as well so I can switch. Them off when not in use. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 

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Those 2 pairs should be wired so that 1 pair handles the house loads in the sleeper, while the other pair takes care of starting duties. The starting pair are isolated when the engine isn't running, so the truck will start after warming up 3 day old fuel station burritos in the microwave. 

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


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120" hood big block w/ 42MT starter can't do it on a single set of 4/0 cables.  If changed out to a gear reduction starter it maybe might squeak by.  But dual 2/0 is still very common with them - especially with 4 batts.  So probably best to stick with tandem starter cables.

Give KWNW a shot at quoting new cables.  They really aren't that bad.  Adding a disconnect will more than double the cable price  though. Yea it doubles the cables but it also isn't as common out there.  So you get out of the high volume parts and get into the specialty stuff.  Could still be well worth it though.

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To do a disconnect switch, change out the red cables for these:

  • K396-2341F020 batt-disco
  • K396-2341F030 batt-disco
  • K385-22E5F065 Qty 2 disco-starter
  • P11-1012 bracket holds it and get a Flaming River Big Switch with handle for the switch.  Cut the top half of the T-handle off to get it to work under the step. (the KW specific one isn't made anymore)

I don't think the KW battery cables will seal with your Deka battery ties though.  You will probably have to buy two Julian/Deka/Freightliner cables to go from your battery ties to the disconnect switch in order to keep the sealing.  Or buy the Kenworth battery ties that seal in with the cables.  You won't need that Freightliner stud for accessories anymore since they will all be on the disconnect switch lug anyways. 

I don't have a whole lot of experience with them, but that single stud for two batteries worth of cable has got to be a restriction.  Usually 3/8 studs are only good for 250A, so the KW cables use a stacking washer to use the cable ends plus the stud to pull power from two batteries.  Not that it'll burn up or anything, but you may see a starting improvement.

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