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Truck bed install


runaway parents

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We used hardwood spacers.  Delrin would be a good alternative.

Unless you are an engineer, or play one on tv, I would not recommend trying to design a bed that you are going to try and eliminate movement between the bed and truck frame during twisting.

John

Southern Nevada

2008 Volvo 780, D13, I-Shift

2017 Keystone Fuzion 420 Toyhauler 

2017 Can-Am Maverick X3-RS

 

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The TriAxle dump trucks I ran. And we took the beds and third axle off every fall. Turning them into a day cab tractor. They did not have anything between the frame and bed frame. This was with hauling 24 to 26 tons in that 16ft bed. I would have though the factory would have used something if needed. Three of these trucks were ordered ready to haul in.

Pete

 

 


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The more you isolate a stiff body from the middle of the frame the smooooother the ride ....

“But” .... commercial truck OEM’s don’t usually take into consideration the placement of a trailer connection in the next county back of rear axles :D

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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I parked next to a refrigerated box truck today when I was picking up my son. So I looked under it. Amazing what will entertain some people. It has 2 inch hardwood, oak I think, between the frame and the box subframe. It was clamped down, very hard, with u bolts about 5' apart. It looked to me that it was clamped so tightly that the amount of  isolation between the two frames would be none existent. There were no springs on the u bolts. It looked like,they used the wood to get enough room over the tires when aired down.

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16 hours ago, Lance A Lott said:

The  factory bed on my pickup has nothing, it bolt directly to the frame. 

Pick-up beds twist, and they're short.  Most of the beds we're using are pretty stout, and will likely break if forced to twist.  Our bed is built in segments and thus can flex a bit.  Well, actually a lot.

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https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=24&ved=0ahUKEwjAgenFiY_aAhXG34MKHWXxCb0QFghaMBc&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.macktrucks.com%2F-%2Fmedia%2Ffiles%2Fbody-builder%2Fmanuals%2F7-frame.pdf%2F&usg=AOvVaw125s6zLDwbmtaUgWmouH0a

 

This is hopefully a link to Mack Trucks instrutions for body mounting. If you don't wont to read it all the condensed version says filler naterial is for taking up difference in the frames. One option they offer is subframe directly on truck frame rigged bolting or u bolts. Flexable mounting is to be used with a rigid body such as a tank to protect the truck frame. Lots of pictures and interesting reading. 

It also says if using u bolts or other flexible mounting method you have to put a stopper front and rear of the subframe so it cant shift. Also you have to put a metal filler in the frame channes to prevent crushing of the frame web. Hope this is of interest.

Just hit download if it asks you to. 

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On 3/24/2018 at 8:01 AM, runaway parents said:

Hmmm is there something a person can use that wont decay?

Our farm trucks have composite 2x4s under the box. Solid plastic. I just used some rubber strips where my bed makes contact. 

Farmer, Trucker, Equipment operator, Mechanic

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I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess.

 

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From your pic one can see that you plan to tow from the bed. As well your bumper is not attached directly to the frame so I would not put anything between frame and bed, nor would I use clamps to attach bed to frame. Bolt it solid is what we do.

I have seen truck bodies that are clamped on that have come loose from bumper towing. One was a sandblast outfit only towing a compressor.

That's a nice bed, bolt it down with some 5/8 grade 8 bolts and get on the road.YMMV

2004 Volvo 780 singled long

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79 Shovelhead Electraglide

 

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