Norcold N611 Evaporative Refrig NOT Freezing

[gypsydan]

I've noticed my 2009 Norcold N611 evaporative freezer does not freeze many items, like ice cream and bread, even thought the temp is 20 degrees. Everything in the back of the freeze, where the cooling coils are located does freeze, but not in the freezer front.

Norcold tells me evaporative freezers DO NOT freeze items with additives like sugar and fats, and that this is a normal process.

Can anyone clue me in if this is normal for evaporative freezers?

Thanks for any help.

[Barbaraok]

You are only able to get your freezer down to 20?  Ice cream won't freeze solid at 20 - it needs to be at 10 or less.  Reason is there are a lot of particles in the solution and that solution behaves like a weak antifreeze.   The larger the number of particles, the lower the freezing point.   

[Pat & Pete]

2 minutes ago, Barbaraok said:

You are only able to get your freezer down to 20?  Ice cream won't freeze solid at 20 - it needs to be at 10 or less.  Reason is there are a lot of particles in the solution and that solution behaves like a weak antifreeze.   The larger the number of particles, the lower the freezing point.   

So , what you're saying is : If they buy cheap ice cream ( obviously less particles  ) they should be able to freeze it ? 

There has to be some advantage to being cheap .  LOL

[Barbaraok]

Depends upon what all is in that cheaper ice cream. 😉

[Kirk W]

4 hours ago, Barbaraok said:

Reason is there are a lot of particles in the solution and that solution behaves like a weak antifreeze.   The larger the number of particles, the lower the freezing point.   

Makes a lot of sense and even explains why some flavors of ice cream seem to freeze better than others. 

6 hours ago, gypsydan said:

Everything in the back of the freeze, where the cooling coils are located does freeze, but not in the freezer front.

That is probably because the back of the freezer is actually colder than the front near the door. You may be able to improve that some if you put a fan into the freezer area, but that probably isn't very practical. 

[Ray,IN]

Suggestions: RV refrigerators are absorption type cooling units. They are quite slow to recover from holding a door open while deciding what to remove, the solution is to decide what you want to remove before opening the door. Check door seals with a dollar bill closed in the door, if the bill slides out easily the seals are faulty.

Look at the back of your frig, if you see any yellow powder the cooling unit is/has failed and must be replaced. No yellow powder, install a small high output fan just above the lower vent panel, Or install an ARP 2.1 unit with optional blower type fan, which makes a big difference in inside frig temperature.

[Kirk W]

On 8/31/2017 at 1:22 PM, gypsydan said:

Can anyone clue me in if this is normal for evaporative freezers?

Is there any news from or follow-up to your first post?

[gypsydan]

On 9/3/2017 at 8:13 AM, Kirk Wood said:

Is there any news from or follow-up to your first post?

I did not get a response to what the difference is between evaporative and home fridge. And since I'm on the road I can't check my home to see what temp it is. The additive situation does make sense. I'll leave the situation like it is, and look at following what Ray,IN suggested 

[Kirk W]

That is probably the best answer for now. Your home refrigerator uses a compressor and the cooling it provides is more efficient and has much greater capacity. It probably keeps that freezer close to 0°. Absorption refrigerators run with very little electric power, but they are much slower to cool and not nearly as effective. 

[I'mdonewiththis forum]

9 hours ago, gypsydan said:

I did not get a response to what the difference is between evaporative and home fridge. And since I'm on the road I can't check my home to see what temp it is. The additive situation does make sense. I'll leave the situation like it is, and look at following what Ray,IN suggested 

My trailer has a residential fridge. I put a bottle of 40 proof (20%) liquor in it to 'cool it down'. When I went to get some the the next day it was frozen solid! My RV fridge wouldn't do that at any time. You also get more room for the same footprint.

[Pat & Pete]

On 9/2/2017 at 10:31 PM, Ray,IN said:

Suggestions: RV refrigerators are absorption type cooling units. They are quite slow to recover from holding a door open while deciding what to remove, the solution is to decide what you want to remove before opening the door. Check door seals with a dollar bill closed in the door, if the bill slides out easily the seals are faulty.

Look at the back of your frig, if you see any yellow powder the cooling unit is/has failed and must be replaced. No yellow powder, install a small high output fan just above the lower vent panel, Or install an ARP 2.1 unit with optional blower type fan, which makes a big difference in inside frig temperature.

Exactly how/where should this fan be hooked up to power/control ? 

[Yarome]

Just posted something similar that might help. 

 

[Ray,IN]

On 9/6/2017 at 9:20 AM, Pat & Pete said:

Exactly how/where should this fan be hooked up to power/control ? 

To 12V+ exiting control board lug on bottom of board housing, this way the fan is powered only when frig is operating, 12V- wire to common ground on back of frig where frig ground is already secured.

[Pat & Pete]

34 minutes ago, Ray,IN said:

To 12V+ exiting control board lug on bottom of board housing, this way the fan is powered only when frig is operating, 12V- wire to common ground on back of frig where frig ground is already secured.

Perfect . Thank You Very Much  , Ray .