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98 N14 Cummins Fan Clutch always runs


JPL

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Had a Diag done on the engine and I was told that the  fan control circuit was bad in the ECM and that was keeping the fan running all the time. The only way to fix the problem was a new ECM. $3500. I had to decline. I wasn't having any problems I just wanted to have it checked before making the run to the ECR. Has anybody had a similar problem? Thanks    Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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Don't know about the Cummins fan clutch, but my D13 Volvo fan clutch stuck after sitting for a couple of months, I took a long rod and hammer and tapped it a few times and it has worked fine since.

2011 vnl730 D13 435/1650 I-shift singled mid 2015 Keystone Raptor 425ts 2015 Smart

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T & K Thanks  I've checked the selonoid and the air connections to see if they make a difference when disconnected. The fan was tight to turn but it would turn. Will keep a eye on it.  Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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Maybe Scrap will pipe up but I doubt if one circuit in the eco will go bad. Sounds more like they wanted to make some easy money. You can also apply air to the fitting on the clutch and dee if it releases. If not there is a rebuild kit available. Personally I would look for a rebuilt clutch if it is bad. 

Ron C.

2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3

2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime

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Pat, if, indeed, it is the ECM output being bad, I'm sure you could engineer a work-around circuit using a thermostat to signal the solenoid when the fan should turn off and on. 3500 bucks is a chunk of change , to me, anyway.  How about using a Davies Craig Digital Thermatic Fan Controller ?   Looking forward to seeing you at the ECR.    Charlie

Edited by sclord2002

Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war.

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The question is, is it running continuously at idle, or at all times? My N14 is set to run all the time at idle when the a.c. is on, but as soon as you move you can hear it cycle normally. If the fan is hard to turn by hand with the engine off, that's normal, as they're normally on, and you're likely dragging it against the clutch. On mine, I can check it by turning the key on. That applies air and releases the clutch, telling me the system is working properly. Good luck, Jay

 

 
 
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Just my 2 cents worth. I have a D12 Volvo and the fan clutch was stuck A dealer got it unstuck but it stuck again later. Another place replaced the fan clutch. It stuck again later. Turned out to be the clutch solenoid. I took it apart and it was rusty inside and would not slide reliably. I had another solenoid in the bank that was not used but cycled so I swapped them. Did not work reliably. I replaced the solenoid with a new one and it has worked well now for 2 years.

I would try changing the solenoid first (that is assuming your trucks air system is set up the same as ours. Mine has a bank of 5 solenoids under the truck. On mine the green air line runs the fan clutch. That would be about a $100 fix. If you pull out the solenoid you could also open it up to see if the plunger is stuck. Not a hard thing to do. That was my solution and the repair places kept overlooking the solenoid because it was fairly new and they said unlikely to be the problem. Now that is the first thing I check. 

The fan running all the time will not hurt anything except your fuel mileage.

 

Brad    

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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10 hours ago, JPL said:

Thanks all for the info. I'll be looking at a clutch fan rebuild. Might not be done by the ECR but it's on the top of the list. Again thanks to All.    Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

Pat,

If its a Horton Fan Clutch, J &K truck repair in Crossville was where I was going to take mine but my air leak (seal) was so bad I didn't trust driving 60 miles.  They do the Horton Gold Top replacements and had the cheapest prices around for the whole job.  J&K said probably $1200 or less, I paid just shy of $2000 at Volvo dealer.  Could at least have them look at it.  Was actually scheduled with their service manager after talking with him and finding out they do a lot of them.  I know several folks from the ECR have gone over there and had work done and were satisfied.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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One other suggestion. On mine I can see the air line running to the fan (it is on the passenger side) and there is a connector in the line. I disconnected the fitting and applied air pressure directly. If that does not make it cycle have someone else tap on the clutch while the air pressure is applied. If it works then it would point to a bad solenoid at least to me. If it is the solenoid a fan rebuild will not correct the problem and the solenoid is much cheaper. Good Luck.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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Being a truck mechanic for years, although not a Volvo mechanic, seems unlikely that it  would be ECM problem, Horton clutches have been around for years, don't really need any particular shop to diognose , any truck shop can fix this as long as it is not a Volvo specific issue

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  • 2 weeks later...

I looked this afternoon and found out that I do have a Horton clutch. I looked on the internet and found a rebuilt Horton for $450. The part #79A8181. It said it was for a Volvo but i have a N14 Cummins. How do I determine the right part #? Thanks B&JI will try to shoot air to it. Thanks for any help.   Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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  • 3 years later...

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