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Pulling with lifted truck?


Capt Frank

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As my search for a 5th wheel and truck continues, I've found a really nice, low milage Dodge Ram 2500 4x4. The truck recently received a dealer installed 6 inch lift. Since that will elevate the receiver height, I'm concerned about the viability of using a lifted truck. The truck is low milage and and really clean but I don't want to make a naive newbie mistake.

 

Can anyone offer some insights? Thanks!

 

Frank

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The immediate problem with a lifted truck is that the drive-line angles (driveshafts to differentials, driveshafts to transfer case) are significantly different than stock. So stresses on U-joints and other components may be increased. The second concern is that as you've stated getting the hitch to line up with the trailer may be an issue.

 

I think that the intangible here is that a truck that has been lifted 6" may have been otherwise modified or "worked hard" in some other manner. No way to know that, but it would concern me a bit. Give me a nice stock truck anytime!

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If you have a two-axle trailer, raising the front end of the trailer could put too much weight on the rear axle and cause bearing, axle, or tire failure. Very bad idea. This would also reduce the pin or tongue weight enough to cause porpoising of the hitch and affect handling of the truck. Another very bad idea.

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I agree with the folks above. I buy used too.

 

I got my first short bed and it came lifted and with no muffler straight after catalytic. It had giant rims and cheap Nitto Grapplers tires. It has since gotten an even trade for new stock rims a guy took off for a trade item I took in trade. I put a muffler on it, and I thought about it and realized that the wear on the drivetrain is at one angle and with 130k miles on the perfect drive train I don't want to see if it is an issue. So I'm selling it and am waiting to hear on a friend's truck, a Dodge 1 ton SRW long bed and hitch already in it.

 

I'd recommend staying away from the "kid" trucks modded for loud, fast, and too tall to get into easily. I had a 92 Dodge dually when we full timed in the 90s-2003. No 4WD or loud exhaust. I'd also stay away from ones that have been "Programmed." This is my third Ram diesel, the other two were long bed and this is my last short bed. I need the exercise walking from the back of the parking lots anyway. I can get in the narrow spaces, then the doors get dinged like it is my truck's fault they made parking good for only compact cars and todays small SUVs (by comparison)

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Frank,

The advantage to looking for a Ram 2500 or 3500 with a long bed, no 4WD, not lifted, no fancy after market tall rims and noisy mud grips, no top mounted light bars, and no programming is that those are the trucks are not the ones folks are looking for. They will be asking less for a truck more likely to give long service. A good used Diesel with 100-150k miles will show if it was a crew work truck or used like I do 99% of the time - for one person as a car and for very light loads for gardening and projects. I look for private owner truck and rarely get to going for a test drive without it being a pretty good looking truck. I stay away from stealerships because I know what I am looking at with a Cummins by now. They are great with an auto tranny and the manuals are fine too. My favorite years are 2005-2007 with the 5.9. I am not familiar with the later years as I get absolute steals on the older trucks barely used and well cared for inside and out.

 

In negotiating with a person who has the "undesirable" truck with the long bed, a must now for me, I find they are willing to be extremely negotiable because they know a plain jane used truck with over 100k miles won't bring top dollar, but many times a clearance price. I am about to sell the short bed, and since I am not in any hurry will start looking for a long bed along the above parameters.

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