Jump to content

What do you do?


Recommended Posts

Greetings all,

 

Maybe this question has been answered somewhere but I didn't find it.

 

I have been a fulltimer for 2 years now. Fortunately, I have not been put in the position to have to leave my TT anywhere to be fixed, since warranty was long expired and I had no major issues.

 

Fast forward. Now have new TT, and it has issues. Covered by warranty. So I should have them addressed rather than try and fix them myself (so as not to void the warranty).

 

The question......

 

What does one do when there is a critical problem and an appointment is weeks away, and it is covered by warranty.

 

As a fulltimer, where do you stay once you finally are able to get it fixed? Motel? Friends? In general, how do you deal with the whole thing?

 

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've actually stayed in our coach while it was being repaired. We would leave when actual work was being done, then come back to stay in it. Thankfully the only time a repair was over a week, we found a repair place that had it's own campground.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most repair places allow you to stay in your coach while it is being repaired. Many even have lounges for your comfort.

 

Dealers may be a different matter though. Is it being repaired by a dealer or under warranty at an RV repair shop?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've actually stayed in our coach while it was being repaired.

 

X2. Most RV repair places are familiar with the drill for fulltimers. Services vary though. It's good to go in with freshly dumped tanks and full fresh water as you might only get a 20amp extension cord.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We've been able to stay in our various motorhomes through an engine swap, transmission replacement, rear end replacement, and a new roof complete with underlayment. Sometimes we were in a shop's parking lot with just a 20 amp electric hookup, and once we spent two nights sleeping in the coach while it was still in the shop service bay. We didn't always stay in the coach while the actual work was being done of course. The only time we actually vacated for a couple of days, was voluntarily during a repaint when we didn't want to endure the smell. That time we rented a "kabin" at a local KOA.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have lived in the RV while it was in service but most cases that is only possible if the shop can run the RV outside of the shop for you to spend the night there. I do know of one place we stayed that actually allowed us to sleep in the RV while the RV was inside of the shop, but that is very uncommon because of issues for the RV shop with their insurance. In addition we have scheduled repairs where the RV had to be inside overnight to take place while we were near our kids or some family that we could spend a night or two with. While I've not done so, I know of those who has spent some time in motels, hotels, or in a B&B.

 

As to doing the work when an extended warranty would pay for it, you need to consider several factors in the question. Will the repair done save enough money or time to justify it if you have to leave the RV overnight? Also, if there is some reason that the RV needs to be under cover for the entire repair, where will you do the work if you choose to do so, and what if it should rain? Most such warranties also have a deductible so compare that to the cost which they will pay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If we were experiencing a "critical problem" I believe we would FIRST have the repair shop evaluate "how critical" it really is, some things APPEAR to be worse than they actually are. I would defiantly want to know how long the shop expects the repair to take, this will allow you a time frame to make needed plans. I would then ask the shop if you would be allowed to stay in your rig, if NOT, do THEY have back up arrangements for their customers. You might be surprised. Finally if the shop doing the repairs would provide no assistance other than "the repair"... since your rig is still under warranty and YOU are the one being inconvenienced will they reimburse your cost for staying elsewhere? They can only say no... probably been told that before, but if you don't ask, they usually assume it's NOT such an inconvenience!

 

Debbie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome info everyone-thanks much! Looks like living arrangements might not be such a big deal based on what I have read.

 

Kirk-interesting comment about the extended warranty. I had a similar thought and may cancel my extended warranty since it would require repair by a dealer/shop and like you said, might be more hassle than it is worth. At least if it's out of warranty, I can get mobile service and have the repair done where I sit.

 

With regard to the term "critical", maybe that was a bit extreme. I have a fridge problem on the electric side and since this rig is brand new, not going to even consider paying to fix it or fix it myself (if I even could). But it would really be a PITA if the thing quits completely, so I guess that's why I used such a strong term.

 

One thing I have thought is that sometimes just fixing things myself would be less aggravation I think than dealing with a dealer/repair shop, as long as it's a minor fix (like the faulty doorknob I have) or any other easy fix (which many things are).

 

Thanks again everyone for the assistance.

 

One more chapter in the adventure has now been addressed!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a fridge problem on the electric side and since this rig is brand new, not going to even consider paying to fix it or fix it myself (if I even could).

 

Just for kicks you might post a new thread and detail the problem you're having. It might turn out to be a simple problem quickly resolved.

 

I would agree though. Most problems I've encountered are rarely worth the hassle and opportunity costs having an outside repair done... even under warranty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Yarome. Start a new thread describing your problem. Someone has probably had it on the forum and has a fix. Believing that the dealer knows what they are doing is a rash assumption.

 

We needed a 125a fuse replaced under warranty. I called up, told them the problem, knew where the fuse was and they said bring it in a leave it for a week. The dealer was an hour drive each way. I asked why so long. First they have to diagnose it, then they need to send the diagnosis to the mfg and get it blessed, then they had to get the part in if they didn't have it(again from the mfg) and install it. We found out the part was a NAPA fuse. We told them to forget it, went to NAPA, picked up the fuse and installed it myself in an hour(including driving to NAPA).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We, too, have always been able to stay in the motorhome. We've always called and made an appointment for when all the needed parts have arrived. We showed up early morning or the night before and were always welcomed to stay on their property, most often with electric. The repairs or maintenance were done in one or two days. Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Yarome. Start a new thread describing your problem. Someone has probably had it on the forum and has a fix. Believing that the dealer knows what they are doing is a rash assumption.

 

We needed a 125a fuse replaced under warranty. I called up, told them the problem, knew where the fuse was and they said bring it in a leave it for a week. The dealer was an hour drive each way. I asked why so long. First they have to diagnose it, then they need to send the diagnosis to the mfg and get it blessed, then they had to get the part in if they didn't have it(again from the mfg) and install it. We found out the part was a NAPA fuse. We told them to forget it, went to NAPA, picked up the fuse and installed it myself in an hour(including driving to NAPA).

Similar problem. Broken drain and fitting and WAY far from original dealer. Checked factory and they said dealer problem. Called dealer told them I'd replace if they would cover parts. They sent check for parts (with pics and receipts). Satisfied with that. No waiting and probably a better repair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We like buying older units at bargain prices, Yarome. We expect to spend money refurbishing them as we travel, and so far have made more than our investment back on each one when selling it several years and lots of fun later. Making money on them is not our primary goal though. I enjoy working on them, and we only farm out the "heavy lifting" when I don't have the needed tools/equipment on hand. It does pay to have a good ERS plan too... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yarome, SWharton,Ray_nomad,,

 

Thanks again for the input.

 

The problem is that the rig is brand new and the fridge is cooling erratically. I am think I know what the problem is; but I absolutely could be wrong,,,,the fridge is in the slide, and thus has an upper side (not roof, because its in a slide) vent. There is an electric fan that forces air across the upper fins, however 3/4 of the fins are blocked by interior wallboard. According to Mfg, it is that way intentionally to force the air across ALL the fins rather than just the lower portion. They seem to think the blowing air will stop as soon as it has an escape route.

 

I don't think they take into consideration that if there is a gentle breeze blowing toward the vent, as will happen often late in the day at the hottest part of the day, it creates a neutral air situation and there is actually a complete lack of cooling of the fins. (Had this happen with a motorcycle once that had an electric fan; at about 10-15 mph like stop n go traffic, it was completely ineffective)

 

So the dealer thinks, and so do I, that the wallboard needs to go. Mfg says no way, will void the warranty (they love to say that; can't even replace the spare tire on the back with a bike rack-voids the frame warranty!)

 

I may be wrong about the diagnosis, as I don't know why it works better on gas, but it is what it is. If anyone has had any exp with the same fin/blockage issue please let me know.

 

So if I am right, this is the reason why I asked the question initially, as I anticipate the fan needing to be replaced sooner than later as it runs almost constantly, and then it becomes a major (I think, since I can't see the fan) repai

 

 

Not something I want to pay for, but also need a place to live while they fight about fixing it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

So the dealer thinks, and so do I, that the wallboard needs to go. Mfg says no way, will void the warranty

While I don't know exactly what you are dealing with, it is quite common for an RV to have something just above the top of the lower access opening into the back of a refrigerator that is there to make all of the air passing up through the cooling area go past the condenser coils. In mine it is some sheet-metal placed as a deflector to direct the air and it blocks much of the space between the cooling unit and the outside wall. Remember that your RV is not the only one the factory built in the same way so if others work and yours doesn't there must be something different.

 

When an RV refrigerator is placed into a slide where it doesn't have the top vent that goes directly up through the roof, it is normal to install at least one fan to push air through the cooling unit and often there will be two for larger refrigerators. An easy way to test if more cooling air will solve the problem would be to just set a small, 120V fan in the open lower access with the discharge directed up into the existing opening. I would think that it would also be fairly easy to remove that air deflecting "wallboard" or whatever it is that you believe to be the problem and if it don't improve things, put it back?

 

I may be wrong about the diagnosis, as I don't know why it works better on gas, but it is what it is. If anyone has had any exp with the same fin/blockage issue please let me know.

This is very normal and it is due to the fact that the gas flame supplies a larger heat source than does the small 120V heating element. More heat means that not only does the boiler heat more and better, but it also moves a greater volume of air through the back of the refrigerator. It is standard trouble shooting with these refrigerators to shift to propane as the first test if cooling is not sufficient.

 

The first thing that I would look for in your situation would be to remove the outside access panels at both top and bottom and using a strong light, inspect to be sure that no insulation or other item has fallen into the air path to disrupt it. That is not an unusual problem, especially in new RVs. If you have not done so, I'd also be monitoring and recording the temperatures in both the chill box and the freezer on a frequent basis, noting the conditions both inside and outside(ambient temperatures, wind, etc.). How long have you owned the RV and has this problem always happened?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can find the installation manual for the fridge (I know Norcold has a separate manual) it should give diagrams with the clearances, venting and baffling requirements. There should not be anything "blocking" the vertical airflow but in a slideout there should be a baffle (we have a radiused piece of sheetmetal) above to divert the flow out the upper vent opening.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you start a new thread with your refrigerator problems? It would be best to do that as you are limiting yourself to people who are/have looked at the current topic already. You need to get new eyes on the problem with the correct title.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Morning all,

 

Wow this thread really has taken some interesting turns.. :rolleyes: I didn't mean for it to turn into a fridge thread, just wondering what to do when down for repairs. But, I have gotten lots of good info on both.

 

I spoke with Dometic and sent some pictures; they are going to get back to me so I guess I will forget about it for now. Temp is good, but it sure is working hard to get there!

 

Depending on what Dometic says, I may need to start a new thread and try and post a pic or two.

 

As always, thanks for the input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

RVers Online University

campgroundviews.com

Our program provides accurate individual wheel weights for your RV, toad, and tow vehicle, and will help you trim the pounds if you need to.

Dish For My RV.

RV Cable Grip

RV Cable Grip

All the water you need...No matter where you go

Country Thunder Iowa

Nomad Internet

Rv Share

RV Air.

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

The Rvers- Now Streaming

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...