Inexpensive reefer upgrades

[Yarome]

Another thread got me thinking about reefer mods and thought I would throw these up. Probably not extremely beneficial for a week long get-a-way, but for long trips and full-timers with Dometic or Norcold reefers, to me, I would consider these two mods as "necessary".

 

"Snip-the-tip" thermistor. It's intended as a easy to install thermistor repair kit, however, it's leaps and bounds above attempting to adjust the little fin slide and is not as susceptible to close proximity frozen item variations. I install one with every new rig. They also sell the same units on eBay for just a couple of bucks cheaper in order to compete with other similar products. $27.50 the last I saw.

 

12v fans. These are preconfigured in either their basic model or a deluxe model (oversized hi-speed low power ball-bearing fans). Ready to install with an on/off switch and don't require wiring into your interior light, but you can with all of the included hardware.

 

The link is for the dometic, however, click the "see other items" link for other options. (basic, deluxe, dual switches, blue LED, etc.) They range from around $14-$21. They also sell ready to install condenser fans. Also very nice to have, but only as needed.

 

The fans really aid in even cooling and nearly prevent having to defrost.

 

Both are very reputable folk and have been around for quite awhile. I had one fan unit that need a switch replaced. I paid for postage to send it to him, he soldered on a new switch and sent it back at no charge. I haven't had a thermistor fail so I can't comment on their C.S., but I have used 4 units in different rigs without a failure.

 

I have no personal relationship and don't receive any type of compensation from either of these guys. Just good solid inexpensive mods that pay back in spades.

 

On edit: Thought I would mention that with the fans it's extremely easy to extend the switch to the exterior of your reefer with an led to indicate on/off. I generally switch my fans off overnight, and with the external switch I don't have to open my reefer to mess with them.

[SIBERNUT]

I wired my fan to come on/off with the compressor. The other thing is to be sure there is a clear escape duct for the heat generated

[Randyretired]

Installed a duct modification that is a piece of tin that forces the air through the cooling fins. Also added a third fan to help the air exit on top of the fins. The cooling unit runs about half as much as before and the refer temps are nearly always 36 degrees. Only occasionally does the temperature rise or fall outside this 36 degrees and then it is only 35 or 37.

[Yarome]

Installed a duct modification that is a piece of tin that forces the air through the cooling fins.

 

Most definitely. Getting your baffle set properly and getting optimal air flow over your condenser is 'extremely' important. Excellent point to bring up in a "necessary" refer mod thread.

[NH2]

Like Yarome, I found both mods he mentioned to be reasonably priced, easy-to-install and have experienced great results.

Mark

[oldjohnt]

Yarome, last year I added the 12 v fan you linked to AND I LOVE IT AND WOULDNT BE WITHOUT ONE. Prior to its installation those fins would frost up every so often, but with the fan they NEVER frost plus food will almost freeze unless we keep the thermostat set on the low end (subject to outside temperature of course)

 

I also added one of the t stat control fans which blows air up past the rear tubes but I cant tell it makes any difference and rarely does it get warm enough to activate it anyway.

 

As I posted some gents have almost every after market option out there while I don't necessarily practice that TO EACH THEIR OWN

 

John T

[KodiakJack]

The only issue I found with our Dometic 1350 last year when we returned to find it down were the 2 thermostatically controlled 12 volt fans on the rear of the unit were both toast. I replaced them with a couple computer case fans. Before finding these fans I placed a small 120 volt fan lower in the space and plugged in (where I had unplugged the ice maker) with a remote on/off switch. So now when the frig needs a boost I push the button to increase air flow across the condenser.

I purchased the interior fan after Yarome's post last year but mind didn't come with a Penguin.

Later,

J

 

PS Got a 3 pack of the remote switches from Costco and I also us them to shed parasitic loads when on the inverter.

[Kirk W]

Adding modifications to improve the air movement through the back of an RV refrigerator is almost always a good improvement, but if you even use it in very cold weather, you need to also provide a means of reducing that air movement. Most RV refrigerators begin to struggle as the outside temperatures drop near 0° because the small electric heater or the propane flame must be able to heat the boiler to cause the inside liquid to become a vapor for the refrigerator to continue working. More than one RV owner has experienced a failure to cool when temperature extremes happen and cold can catch you by surprise. We had one very cold stretch where I covered more than half of the vent openings to limit air movement. They work best if the inside temperature remains above freezing.