KodiakJack

👍 Later, J

My forward up/down station is back to working. Thanks for the help. Later, J

I will find a 6-pin DP/DT momentary and change it out. Thank you both for your help. Later, J

The switch is part of our rigs Level Up system. It is used to raise and lower the front hydraulic jacks. The old switch, operated momentary in both directions, is labeled YIS DC 12V 16A (Made in Taiwan) and has 6-pins (though only 4 wires leave it). Unfortunately it does not function at all so I am unable to determine it's operation with my ohm meter. As pointed out only 4 wires are connected to the system with the red and blue split and landing on 2 switch pins. This switch failed a couple years back and my attempt then to replace it with a 4-pin momentary while on the road did not work so I have used the Level Up main panel for the front jacks ever since. Why now? The Level Up panel is showing a "External Sensor" error (another request for help topic I will soon post) leaving me unable to use the main panel as I was. Later, J

Both our phone's hotspots and jetpack have the same PW and have worked fine for years. Later, J

I always enjoy reading the bear stories and advise. Kirk has it right in my opinion; make some noise. I have always whistled "Dixie" when walking along a creek full of spawning salmon, and as a general rule pick up the volume and repetition in direct relation to the amount of salmon remains along the bank. I carried out my first bear when I was 15 or 16 years old and in the 50 years on Kodiak island that followed I was only charged once. The sow clearly did not like me near her cubs. I am so so glad I did not get between her and them because I had never before seen such an aggressive reaction to a human. With my Colt Kodiak in the pack my back I was not armed. I know well that you do not run from a bear, but when I saw dirt fly into the air (yes seriously) when she took out after me, I ran. I was hiking alone up a ridge line when I came upon two cubs of the year following mom up the same ridge line. The cubs were about 50 yards up hill from me with mom another 75 yards up from them. As I took a photo the sow reared up to check on her cubs and spotted me. The action I described started immediately thereafter. It was down hill (a bit to my advantage) and the terrain mostly open at that elevation, so I ran. Not sure I ever ran that fast before. I only stopped when I figured she would have caught me by then. As it turned out she only charged a little passed her cubs. So with the sow now between dangerous me and her cubs she quit the charge and stood guard. Feeling safer now I took another quick photo and continued down the mountain. I will never forget the dirt clods the sow let fly as she took off. Later, J

I found a new/old ram for our rig on eBay; made an offer and got it. There also were many rebuilt rams available. Later, J

Bear spray is more effective on brown then black bears. On a search several years back another handler and his dog had an encounter with a black bear and deployed his bear spray. He recalled his German Shepherd when he spotted the bear but the bear started following the dog, slowing only when the dog sat by his partner. The bear continued to advance so at 25-feet the handler sprayed, hitting the bear directly on its face and shoulders. This caused the bear to finally stop and sit, but not for long. The bear again advanced and continued to do so into a direct facial spray, finally sitting 15 feet in front of the team. This time while the bear was rubbing it's face and licked it's lips (yes really) the team backed away and escaped while the bear sat in the same spot. Later, J

I went with the negatives years ago and wish I hadn't and went ahead and installed toppers. The wind issue was the killer for me even after reading several fixes for topper flapping, consisting of various spacers to hold them tight, and provide for drainage. In the end, with covid and medical, our rig got way too much Arizona sun, resulting in UV deterioration of the slide seals requiring they be replaced. If I had this decision to make again I would install toppers (and still might). Later, J

Completed the upgrade a couple weeks back and all has been well. Both my Magnum inverter/charger and EPEVER solar charger controller were easy to program after a bit of 'how to' research. Here are a couple photos. Later, J

Sorry only have a pdf file I downloaded from somewhere years ago.. Later, J

Worth mentioning is that some thermostats, such as the Dometic's, can have their on/off set point or delta adjusted. When set to 3-degrees it can feel quite cool before restarting the furnace especially in an RV that is less than weather tight. Tried to post Dometic's pdf instructions for reprogramming but it was was too big. Later, J

Thanks all for your comments. Yes all of my LFP batteries arrived showing 13.1 - 13.3 volts according to the built in meter; my Klien VTVM agreed. The built in meter also shows individual battery SOC (83-88-90-95%) more than the 50% storage capacity recommended on the batteries label. (The manufactures charging/discharging information is printed on each battery.) I have watched a few youtube videos on programing my Magnum using my remote display, with a couple methods available, i.e. CC/CV and Custom as mentioned by Chad. Turns out I did not have the best length of cables to properly connect to the Magnum, so cables are on order. Meanwhile I will use my MTTP solar controller to fully charge the batteries before using (per manufacture) simply because it can be easily changed for LFP batteries. When I installed the Magnum I retained my PD-9280 converter/charger as a backup but have never used it since. During the transition I will disconnect it from the batteries and allow it to supply only the 12 volt system. Soon as the cables arrive it will be back to the Magnum and it's wonderful SOC and additional information display. Later, J

Great report and supports the reason my 4 100A 12V Global Power LFP arrived last night. I am hoping for similar results especially seeing how they will working my limited 610 watts of solar panels. I do not want to high jack this thread but do have a question as to charging Lithium batteries. My Magnum inverter/charger does not have a built-in charge profile for LFP batteries so I am looking for advice on how to do this myself. Later, J

Wow....well done. Later, J PS To anneal copper you heat it and then dose it in water.

Kirk, thanks for the BFOTO (blinding flash of the obvious). Cables would provide better isolation from the factors I mentions. Cable it is. Later, J

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JVSH9G?tag=sa-sym-new-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1&doi=2021-07-15&o=APN12178&p2=^EQ^fd30us^ We've had one for years. Works good. Replace the little return spring that fired the fan with one from a ball point pen. Since then no issues. Later, J

See if her doctor would set her up with allergies-drops (for lack of a better term). These are brewed/mixed after testing for a particular persons allergies and simply put under their toung as prescribed. Works well both the wife have done this. Later, J

Drafted the batteries that I just ordered to scale in AutoCad so I could juggle them around to find the best layout. Looks like a couple of bus bars just under 2' long would work well to tie the 4 batteries together and allow for connection to the inverter on the ends. In a fixed location there would be no issue with vibration, large temperature changes, or potential movement, but not so in an RV. Anyone had problems using bus bars in their RV? Is it a better idea to just use cable connections (I have a bunch of 2/0 in a couple lengths). Later, J

Found a little bit of information on diysolarforum.com. Let us know if you go that route. I looked into these batteries when you mentioned them in another thread. Later, J https://diysolarforum.com/search/739442/?q=100Ah+12V+SiO2+Battery+G27&o=relevance

I ordered 4 100 Ah LFP batteries with low temperature cut outs yesterday. Yes a substantial increase in available Ah which should augment well with our on board solar, especially when I add additional panels. We should end up north of a 1100 watts, and I hope the batteries will charge while traveling down the road. Speaking of which, having repaired a good bunch of pipe, fittings, and replacing our destroyed water pump from a freeze-up doing just this, I rather be safe than sorry. Between the batteries BMS, the MTTP limit and the furnace running when it gets darn cold we should be just fine. Thank all for your help. Later, J

Jackpot. DIYsolarforum has a number of informational threads on storing/using/charging LiFePO4 batteries in cold temperatures. Would not say there is consensus on this topic, with one fellow even charging at -17 degrees and videoing it, along with recommendations to store at various states of charge, but for the most part, these batteries have proven to store just fine in the cold. A fellow I used to work with would say the self-heating charging batteries/mats cycle both John and I described would be considered "a self-eating watermelon" (Cape Canaveral term)...ha ha. No longer a worry. I think Randy has got it, just disconnect them and all will be good. Thanks all for you help. If was fun getting smarter. Later, J PS Moral of the story; buy 3 batteries now (with low temp cutouts) and add another of like type and manufacture (hopefully) as soon as possible.

Thanks again all for your helpful comments. They reinforce the research I have completed to date regarding adding batteries at a later time. I have found no more of the Weize batteries (referenced above) available, hence the only 2 I found are still in my Amazon cart. It is very important to an Alaskan that each battery's BMS include a low temperature cut off. So I continue to research LiFePO4 batteries with this feature, and in the mid price range. I have also found batteries that heat themselves and wonder how that would work over an extended period. Would that draw them down too much? I could leave the solar up, but not sure if that is a good idea without supervision. Also found 12-volt heating pads, but the same questions come to mind. Freezing up driving down the road is no longer an issue if I simply run the furnace while traveling, which would keep the batteries warm. I am more concerned with storing without electric available in cold weather. Winterizing both boats and RV's is second nature, and I have accomplished many times over the years. Charging batteries and disconnecting them was usually the only requirement to get them through the winter when a trickle charge could not be used. The current state of our 7-year old 6-volt GC batteries are less than good but not yet totaled, certainly no longer 460 ah with more than one bulging. I once found exposed plates. Our Magnum inverter tripped on low voltage the other night for the first time. So new batteries have moved up the to list and are to blame for my many questions. Later, J

Thank you Randy, Darryl & Rita, Will and John for taking your time to pass on your experience. Decided to take all of you suggestions. Hope to place an order for 3 100 AH batteries from Amazon that include a low temperature cut off 'tested' by Will Prowse. Will's video. Amazon ad (Inflation now a $100 more) https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Lithium-Battery-Overland-Applications/dp/B09F2LLMY3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1LA7B9GVDGQMO&keywords=lifepo4%2Bbattery%2B100ah&qid=1643130374&sprefix=lifepo4%2Bbattery%2B100ah%2Caps%2C608&sr=8-3&th=1 Later, J PS Can I add another battery in the (hopefully near) future or will that possibly/likely degrade the bank? PSS First PS question now a hot item. Apparently Amazon only has 2 of the batteries in stock (siting in my cart). Bring up mixing not just different runs but possibly manufactures. Still researching but thought I ask.