Kirk W

Better yet, use the USFWS volunteer page to go directly to the facility that you are considering.

I would question any company that does this as it usually means that the advisor has left the company. Take a hard look at how you have done while with the company. Many people will choose and advisor and stick with him if successful, even when/if he changes companies. If he doesn't make you enough money to exceed what he is paid for his services, then he isn't worth the cost and a really good one should be able to make more for you than you could do yourself, even after he gets paid. If you are just investing in mutual funds and leaving your money where it is, then should you even have a money manager? Be careful when you take advice from others about how to manage your investments yourself and keep in mind that on a public forum anyone can claim to have made himself rich by managing his money himself no matter what is actually the case. We have all known people who constantly visit the casinos and claim to always leave as winners and self-investing is little different.

So? I would go to Bryant RV website and download a copy of the appropriate Dometic service manual. In it, you should be able to find the appropriate fuse to use. There exist a very wide range of fuses in terms of speed so it would be risky to use a slow blow fuse where it isn't required. It also sounds like your heater is drawing more than the normal current as it should not be that sensitive. Normal operating currents on most refrigerators run closer to 3a than to 5a except when there is the brief starting surge. Using the wrong fuse could come back to haunt you at some time in the future.

Will do. It will be a couple of weeks probably.

Welcome to the Escapee forums and thanks for you information.

You aren't buying Tesla?

Thanks! That is exactly the sort of information that I was looking for. I have not been in the trailer market for a long time and for that reason am seeking opinions and experience from those who are. I plan to look at both of those tires. Our trailer weighs in at just under 4000# when fully loaded and is within 100# of equal weight on either side. Hooked up, we have about 1700# on each tire. You guess pretty well. I have found that my truck gets best fuel mileage at about 60 mph when towing and that is where I operate nearly all of the time.

The trailer isn't present at this time but I believe that they are 175/80R14. What I'm looking for is good or bad reports on specific tires.

Our travel trailer is due for a new pair of shoes. Anyone have tire brand, model suggestions or ones to avoid?

While there may be lists around, I never used one. There were things that I always asked, such as the size of the site and all of the amenities offered and I always asked for as complete as possible a description of the duties required, but part of the process is also just a conversation with the volunteer coordinator to get a feeling for what it will be like. The process is really little different than that of interviewing for a job but with less pressure to accept it. You need to interview the person at the other end just as much as they interview you. Remember that you are volunteering for them, so your rights are important and you need to get a feel for how they appreciate their volunteers. Many say that you need a written list of duties but we never found that to be necessary since most of the positions we accepted the duties varied depending upon agency needs and our skill set. We always ask about opportunities to learn and to experience new things. We rarely go to the same place more than once because learning is part of the benefit we expect in return for our time. If what they need done does not sound like fun, we do not go as we are not looking for a job, we are volunteering to help. I'm more than willing to do the work as long as I get something in return for my efforts. We did a lot of lawn care and maintenance work but also were involved in things like bird banding and wildlife related things, or we didn't go. Since we were usually putting in far more hours than needed to pay for the RV site, we expected other types of rewards such as new experiences and exposure to things not open to the visiting public. One of the more common rewards that aren't often mentioned was the location of our RV site. Very often you live in a place with views that are not available to most people. I'm thinking of where we watched a doe nurse her new fawn just feet from our RV window nearly every morning. I'm thinking of the place where we were awakened several fall mornings by a bull elk bugling for his harem just feet from our door. And the time that we woke up in the night with the RV shaking due to a bear with an itch using the corner of the RV to scratch. And another time we watched the last flying Sopwith camel land on the grass airstrip next to our site. I could go on but this should make the point that these places give you the opportunity to experience things no other place has to offer.

Please post what you think when they come and again a review once you have chance to actually use them for a time.

I would assume that you will be towing with an equalizer hitch of some type and those do provide at least some antisway, but I would still recommend use of more. I use the Curt friction sway control on our trailer. Welcome to the forums!

Interesting comment as clearly those sold to the RV market are sold for use with chlorinated water as well as with well water. Sanitizing an RV water system only calls for 1/4 cup of chlorine bleach per 10 gallons and that is only 8.25% chlorine as it cones from the jug. You only need 50 PPM(parts/million) to sanitize the system. The environmental guides also recommend that wells be samitized periodically with bleach or some similar product. I have used chlorine bleach for both our well and for our RV for many years with no negative results to the pressure tank or accumulators.

Well.................. True scientificaly speaking, but I assure you that a 1 minute run while you are awake is far less than 3 spurts of 20 seconds each when you are trying to sleep.

Is New Horizons going to buile it when available?

While I have no disagreement with the theory that larger is better for an accumulator/pressure tank, the law of diminishing returns applies. Even the smallest of the RV accumulators will give you most of the benefits that the largest ones do, such as no longer needing to worry about the bubble in your water heater. No doubt about it, the larger ones do have a longer period between pump operations, but they also then cause the pump to run for a much longer time when it does turn on. Every benefit also comes with a cost in some way. Larger tanks take more space and may cost more. The small vertical ones for the RV market cost more for the size but they don't have any problem when you winterize so no need to remove one and they take far less space to accomodate so are often more easily located near the water pump. I got my first one it was one of the smallest of those in the RV market, because of very limited space to install it into a pretty small RV. I was amazed by just how much effect it had so when we moved up to a larger RV, I also put in a larger accumulator. In many ways that larger one was better, but the difference in pump run time was very noticable.

I am going to respond based upon the assumption that this will be done in your RV. My first comment is that I strongly recommend that if you will be installing this tank in a horizontal position, don't use a vertical designed tank but get one intended for horizontal use. I checked several sets of instructions for such tanks and all say not to do that. If installing it into an RV, I wonder why such a large tank as most RV accumulators are 1 liter or less. For winterizing, I have never concerned myself with going to the trouble that you are but I always mounted the tank in the position as designed and so when the system was drained of water the pressure on the diaphragm forced all water from the tank. Even if a very small amount of water were left in the tank, freezing would not harm it since there is room for expansion,. When adding antifreeze, I never worried about the accumulator since I never pumped antifreeze into the system to pressurize it but only ran the pump until I got antifreeze from the faucets and then shut off the pump leaving the faucet open, relieving any pressure. Why store the RV with water system pressurized? On the plumbing issue, if you use the one you link to, the instructions for it also state that it must be installed with a pressure relief valve. Those designed for RV use are also intended to be left in place and don't require a pressure relief. Shurflow does make a 2 gallon, stainless steel tank for RV/boat use if you think that you need that much but I tend to wonder if that isn't overkill? On the pump, I replaced ours in our previous RV with a Flowjet pump and was quite happy with it for the 5 or so years that I owned it.

That is only part of the issue. I retired at 57 with health care insurance from my employer to cover us to Medicare. While that is getting less common, my former employer is one company that is still doing this. But it is important to take a hard look at that issue when you are planning.

Both of those are very large dealerships and so they have many customers, some happy and others not so much. After more than 30 years in customer service, I can tell you that far greater share of the unhappy customers tell others than do the happy ones. While reviews do have some credibility, don't put too much faith in them but always use caution when dealing with any sales person. Sales forces are nearly always paid on a commission basis and that is done to reward them for selling, and not to particularly encourage honesty in business. I worked with a lot of sales people over the years and it taught me that those who will never take advantage of an unwary customer are extremely rare.

Paul Evert RV will be on site as one of the sponsors of the Escapade. They usually have a few used coaches with them.

Yup! My wife, the former loan officer, says that very same thing. As long as the new coach is of equal or greater value than the previous one and you have a good payment record, they will probably go along but you could need to find a new lender and just pay off the original loan.

My opinion also. I have seen it used with mixed results.

That depends upon each person's taste. I happen to be one who dislikes most things that have a significant amount of olive oil in them. The American Heart Association says that there are other cooking oils that are healthy.

In reading the installation manual for the NEST it seems to be a possible match, depending upon what thermostat you have now. Your RV isn't so much the issue as what you presently have as there is a very wide range of thermostats in use by RV manufacturers. Some still use the simple, 2 wire thermostats that take power from the furnace and just supply an open or closed connection to the furnace which then heats or shuts down. Others have a telephone, RJ11 connector with 5 wires which controls both air conditioner and furnace, via a control circuit board located in the air conditioner. There are several other variations of thermostat and devices and there are also several brand names that are not all exactly alike. If you share what thermostat you have now, it may be possible to convert, but we need more information to say.

Interesting post. Anyone impacted by this?