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  1. SuiteSuccess started a related topic. I sometimes think it's a good idea to piggyback topics for the sake of the next person searching. Link to the topic included below. shorter version; So I got the STOP LOW COOLANT message on the instrument cluster. I usually park on gravel so I never noticed a puddle or anything. Went from a spot on the road while parked, days later became critically low. My fault for not popping the hood after cooling off to look. i assumed a hose had cracked because it seemed to lose water very suddenly. I looked over the gravel, the hoses, the expansion tank and connections. I crawled underneath, felt around where I could not see, even looked at our rear sleeper heater repair. For anyone who wants to know more about the chronic sleeper heater leak for Volvo sleepers, we have many photos and cad screen shots of our disassembly and reassembly fun. No write up yet but someday. The level sensor in the reservoir tank looked borderline, and there was residue on the fan shroud resembling a leak. No greasy moisture on the sensor electrical plug. It appears the sensor was leaking in the past so I tightened the clamp and moved on. At the Volvo dealer I bought a few parts, thermostat, short hose, $60 each. Coolant filter $15 or so, EXPANSION TANK PRESSURE CAP $35 or so, a couple or other things I forget exactly what. 6 gallons of COOLANT just less than $7 per gallon. The caps are because you might want the info that follows. Everywhere I looked including online, Diesel engine coolant was $12 on up. Like batteries, the dealer had the best price. You just never know. The service desk was next. I described the leak events etc, and immediately the mechanic who happened to overhear said, "Replace the over pressure cap on the pressure tank." AKA reservoir. He added that when running on the highway, the system may regenerate. The cap relieves pressure at 15 pounds but if it goes bad, will shoot the coolant out the overflow drain hose. So you will never see it! i gave it some time to be sure, and the tank level is right where I left it a month ago. i came up with what I think is a unique way to refill the cooling system, and I'm not inviting the flame throwers to comment, but I will take constructive advice. 😃 I will have to tell that story later on edit. http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/134846-volvo-radiator-drain-hose/?do=findComment&comment=981047
  2. We have a NEST thermostat in our home and would REALLY like to transfer that technology to our future RV. Our future RV is a Georgetown 364TS class A, gas.
  3. Does anyone else have a little black Airxcell digital thermostat with only three buttons to set/adjust it? Our new Nexus Phantom 32P came with one, and it is mounted too high for us to see it. Had to slip it off its mounting screws and just let it hang by the wires so we can see it. We have a 15,000 BTU a/c with heat strips and a gas furnace, and the single thermostat controls them all. I've thought about changing the thermostat to one with individual controls for on/off, heat/cool, fan on/fan auto, etc. Thanks, Kermit
  4. Help! I replaced my main Dometic air conditioner. No problems at all, works great. It had a 7-wire thermostat. I replaced it with a Dometic 3-wire thermostat. Married up the wires, all simple enough, and as I said works great. BUT. My Atwood furnace also worked through the thermostat. After wiring up the a/c and new thermostat, which was all labeled and a no-brainer, I had 2 white wires and 2 orange wires left over. These are heavy wires, not thermostat wires. I have 2 terminals on the control box that say “furnace.” Where do I go from here?
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