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About lhowemt

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    Whitewater rafting, camping, dogs

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  1. Regarding funding the studs and the above comment to identify to locate them in the morning before the Dew Burns off -has anyone tried using a flir infrared camera to locate studs?
  2. Holy heck. I cannot imagine not winterizing. And with my luck I'd have the tank side of the closed valve freeze and leak. I don't trust anything over the winter without glycol in my area. I have seen cooling coils get blown out and still pop leaks come spring. No thanks for me. We blow out the rv and then glycol, at least then we need minimal glycol.
  3. Yes, I am in your camp. Having worked with an acoustical engineer on hvac noise complaints, science supports that change in noise is typically more noticeable than a continuous noise. Let "er run!
  4. Thanks everyone for the tips! I have never seen the inside of a bladder pressure tank, I guess I didn't think that it drove ALL of the water out. I don't think I will risk it, closing it off without glycol, living in MT we get below 20 below for extended periods. However that may be good enough to just glycol the tank, and not mess with removal. 3 or 4 fill and flushes should do the job in the spring. We don't drink it anyways, so a tiny bit of residual is not a huge concern. And I'll be bleaching it after flush and before use. I like the loop ideas for noise, thanks. And I
  5. Of course this is for a RV, is this not a RV forum? Yea the acc tank is to reduce pump cycling, especially for nighttime (noise) as the pump is under the bed. Installation orientation doesn't matter on bladder tanks, except for the freezing (draining) issue. I believe that is why they say upright installation. I want the 2 gal one because it is the biggest I can fit and 1 gallon or so of water expansion will be a HUGE improvement. What about the pex connection, diy methods?
  6. Hey all- I am going to replace our water pump and want to install an accumulator tank. Tank: I am tied into this type of tank: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-2-Gallon-Vertical-Pressure-Tank/1038561 And have some fitting/winterizing questions. I was thinking that I want to T that in to my water line, and go valve, union, valve, tank. This would allow me to remove the tank for the winter, while not spilling water all over the place. The valve on the system side would allow me to glycol in the fall (and spring bleach/flush) without the tank in. Question - what do oth
  7. Check out Yaak falls by Troy MT, also Kootenai falls by Libby. After you go through Glacier, if you come out the east side drive south via Choteau and Augusta. Gorgeous smaller road along the Rocky Mountain front. Highways 89 to 287.
  8. This MH was born in California, so that makes sense. I prefer not worrying about a malfunctioning device (not uncommon) locking out our heat and cooking. If NFPA doesn't think it adds safety, then neither do I
  9. Another question - I believe that when I do this replacement from the old CCI, that I need to have the solenoid valve removed, correct? I understand that the old unit/solenoid needed power to be open, so if I just remove the CCI I will not have propane (no signal/power from CCI). It sounds like newer MH's don't have this shutoff, so I should be fine doing so. Yes? I suppose jumpering it would be another solution, but I would rather avoid cobbling things together.
  10. Bought a replacement MTI propane detector/alarm for our motorhome. MH is 1998 with original detector/alarm so I figured this was wise to do. I ordered this off Amazon, and am wondering about the date on the back. Is it the mfg date, or expiration date? I am a bit leery from reading reviews on Amazon (of course after the fact) that talked about receiving a unit that was already 5 years old (end of official lifespan. This didn't come in any "factory" packaging and didn't have a upc. MTI is closed. Since it was cheaper than MTI lists it at, I am wondering if someone on Amazon is selling ol
  11. Spacemaker150 coffee maker for sale. Works great, all mounting brackets included. It was in the used MH we purchased and we don't make drip coffee so out it came. It works well, makes hot coffee and keeps it hot (160 deg F). $100 plus shipping (from MT) http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/laurahowemt/2015-02-28%2015.06.11_zpsrurmyblb.jpg http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/laurahowemt/2015-02-28%2015.06.24_zpsxblamsxd.jpg
  12. Where is an appropriate place to list this coffee maker for sale? On this forum? Others? Thanks!
  13. I forget that rv fridges are absorption. Even though it may be common it is still a source for damage to occur if operated off level for an extended period. http://www.fmca.com/polks-top-7/2633-polks-top-7-tips-for-maximizing-your-rv-refrigerators-efficiency.html Laura- not making stuff up. Just stating one reason why some Don't recommend it.
  14. I believe the main reason for not running the refrigerator when travelling is the refrigerant needs to be still and (somewhat) level to work properly. It can damage the system if the compressor runs without refrigerant having properly returned to pump.
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