franco-bolli

Personally, I'd really like to find a reasonably priced negative and slide scanner. Most of the printed pictures for over 20 years ago, are fading and the colors are more yellow.

You probably already know this, but some folks haven't... Please DON'T use a USB thumb drive for your pictures, unless it's only to copy pictures to another computer. The memory chips in those thumb drives are getting better, but they are still susceptible to surges and improper disconnects, that will make them unusable / unreadable / unrecoverable. You don't want that to happen with irreplaceable photos.. Buy a decent quality hard drive back up system ( either SSD or real HDD) for long term storage. You may also already know that .jpg is a photo compression file type. The algorithm looks for commonalities of adjacent pixels and gets rid of some. When you open a jpg file and edit it and then save it again, it has just gotten rid of more of the pixels that make up your picture, reducing the overall quality. You may not notice it if you only view images on the screen, but you will when / if you print them. TIFF, is a better format to save images in if you know you may wish to print them later.

I saw an article in Handyman Magazine Sept 22Here is their method of calculating."RIGHT SIZE YOUR BATTERY BANK"List all AC loads in Watts (W) in a table and calculate the total watt-hours (Wh) per day. ( this should also work for DC loads, loosely watts are watts)Multiply that number by the days of Autonomy(DoA), that is the number of days you expect to have complete cloud cover (read very little charging).Divide that number by the voltage of the system. This is the amp-hours (Ah) your battery bank should have.Below is an example of determining battery sizeAC LOAD W X Hrs per day = Wh per dayWh per day X DoA = Total WhExample:Television 132W x 2 (hrs/day) = 264 Whventilation fans 50W x 2 (hrs/day) = 100WhLED Lights 15W x 2 (hrs/day) = 30Wh---Finding the total Watt hours264 + 100 + 30 = 394 WhTotal = 394Wh per day x 3 (days of Autonomy) = 1182Wh---Finding the necessary Amp hours1182Wh / 12V = 98.5Ah---If a battery is 100Ah, it appears that it would be dead in about 3 days of this load, or whatever cut off is, if there is minimal charging.Hypothetical string of LED's around the trailer. (wattage used is a complete guess below)LED light string 15W at 8 hours / night15W * 8 h = 120Wh3 days of LED string use but complete cloud cover (minimal charging)3 * 120W = 360WhAmp hours needed to light the lights for 3 consecutive, 8 hour days without charging.360Wh / 12V = 30AhBTW, Don't shoot the messenger!! I'm just copying the information from Handyman Magazine, Sept 22 edition page 54. The part for your specific application was what I added to the information from Handyman Magazine.I went to this web site https://www.omnicalculator.com/ecology/solar-paneland used some input based on the information above.If you choose to visit you can plug in your own values but here's what I did..I presumed that total usage of the LED string with 5 hours of charging a day(if you are in the lower latitudes!) for a month would be 3.6kW. Which is 120Wh * 30 days.I set the "bill offset" to be 100% to make the calculator believe that I wanted to run autonomously or the solar to be paying the whole bill.I used a 70% environmental factor to presume the Solar panel was a little dirty.The answer was that I needed a 30 W array.I am not a solar expert! I just using the tools available to help figure out what's needed.Hope this helps.(My fire resistant is suit on, I'm sure there will be some discussion about the calculations)

this is an add on to 2gypsies. this link is just for glacier park notices and road conditions. https://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/conditions.htm

Adding on to the advice that Kirk provided while on the road, You may wish to turn them all off before you enter the fueling station, particularly if you're going to get gas. Don't make an ash of yourself in front of a lot of strangers by setting the place on fire. Some states have restrictions for transporting propane through tunnels, like NY, and Maryland, and New Jersey. I found this on tripsavvy.com "If you’re traveling from Illinois to Iowa, route around the bridge between Fulton, IL, and Clinton, IA. Trailers are prohibited on that bridge. If you have propane tanks (don’t we all?) you cannot pass through the Baltimore Harbor Tunnel or Fort McHenry Tunnel in Maryland. In Virginia, you’re limited to two portable bottled gas tanks of 45 pounds with valves closed in the Hampton Roads Bridge Tunnel, Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel and the Norfolk-Portsmouth Tunnel. " Safe Journeys

UPDATE TO DAVIS MONTHAN AFB TOUR (dated 2 Dec 2022) Welp, After much digging to determine what would be needed to assemble a group of folks to tour the Air Craft Bone yard at Davis Monthan during the week of the Escapade, I found information buried on a separate web site that states that due to squadron tasking, tours of the boneyard have been discontinued. I'll contact the public affairs office at David Monthan after the 1st of the year to see if the tours will be continued in 2023. If you still need to get a view of historic aircraft, here is a link to the Air Museum in Tucson for your information. PIMA air museum In any case, a tour of the US Air Craft Bone yard at Davis Monthan AFB will not be included as one of the activity opportunities of the 2023 Escapade, and if the tour is possible at all, it will be completely separate and independent of any Escapade event scheduling.

I sent a note to the nice folks at Escapees HQ, about what else is happening in Tucson around the time of the Escapade. 1. Davis Monthan AFB is in Tucson. If you were in the Air Force, you know that the Davis Monthan base is the final resting place for almost all planes retired from active service in the Military. I mention this because they do allow organized groups to get a guided tour of the base during the week, but not as individuals. I gave the Escapees HQ, the heads up that it would be great if they could arrange a trip to the base during the week of Escapade for those that wish to do so. Links to the tour request were provided. 2. Davis Monthan is having an open house / airshow on the 25 & 26th which will include the Air Force Thunderbirds demonstration team. The web page on Davis Monthan AFB doesn't mention the 2023 event yet, but I called the public relations desk to confirm what I found on the Thunderbirds web site ( link provided ). Scroll down to the 2023 schedule if you visit the Thunderbirds web site. The public relations verified it was planned and they would be updating their website with the information after the 1st of the year. I've asked Escapade HQ to at least let the folks know that this is coming because it's the weekend after the Escapade ends. Messages were sent to Escapees HQ about 2 weeks ago, but no response from them yet. But now you know Safe Journeys!

Yesterday, the new 2.5 shank and the straight pin have arrived. Its actually a Blue OX shank but not at the cost I first saw. I tried to get it locally, but they were still real close to $250. I found an OEM Blue OX shank for $157 on Amazon, and installed the WD Head on in this afternoon.I checked the trailer tongue weight, still about 880 lbs, before I towed it to the sewer dump station for the last trip of the year. I didn't notice any real difference in towing experience with the new shank. There is still a fair amount of movement, both up and down as well as sideways when it's not connected to the trailer.I had to knock the 2" to 2.5 " adapter out with a punch, it was jammed in with the bent metal from the deformed hole in the receiver. The holes in the adapter, looked as normal as they did when I purchased the truck, no deformation at all. They were sort of oblong to start with.I haven't purchased the anti rattle item yet, but will probably get the one that I gave the link for above. I chatted with a mechanical engineer friend and he explained where the forces were going with that anti-rattle device. No word back from the dealer yet about their decisions about warrantying weak metal or???IF it comes to replacing the hitch later down the line, I'll look for for one that better distributes the load to the frame.Thanks again for sharing your information and experiences.

On the driver side is worse. At some point, I must have flipped the pin. When I get to a campsite and I know we will be there for a day or so, I pull the shank just so it won't flop around and I won't accidentally walk into it. Not to mention the opportunity of skewering the car behind me when I park! this hitch clamp shows promise at least for my truck, but the reports are that locknuts need to be added. Hitch Clamp I owned a AF 24-5L and found it to be very maneuverable when backing and stable on the road. I sold it because neither of us could stand up on the side of the bed. We were in a constant crouch when we weren't sitting on the bed. That's one of the main reasons we went to a trailer, but still would like to find a Arctic Fox 27L 5th wheel.

I took my truck by the dealer to have a chat about the issue. Oddly, one of his first comment was to switch to a 5th wheel trailer. An interesting response to say the least. Ultimately, neither he nor the local service manager could make a determination if this was warrantable so he took pictures and will be sending then "on up the line" for others to review. Warrantable events are cracks in the metal, or breaks in welds. I was able to produce a CAT weight slip showing the vehicle / hitch was not overloaded for the longest trip I took this summer. I mentioned to him that if this is the wear I get in 17000 miles of towing, by the time the truck gets to 50k, I'll need to replace the hitch! I didn't know the hitch was to be a consumable. I've ordered a straight pin and a 2.5" shank as replacements, regardless of the dealer conclusion. Thanks again for the feedback and sharing your experiences!

@Darryl&Rita Gotcha, thanks for posting the pictures. I think I have a clear direction now.

thanks for the replies. Granted, I could use a grade 8 bolt, but then need to carry tools to remove it. Not too big a deal, but a lot less convenient than pulling the pin. The Blue ox shank is a 2" version, so an adapter is needed to accomodate the 2.5" receiver. There in lies the issue, I think, clearances for the shank to it will slid into the 2" adapter, and clearance from the adapter to the receiver, and then tolerances built into the pin hole and the pin so that they will allow for quick disconnect. The whole thing can move, but not clunk under trailer weight. The moving is creating the wear. @Darryl&Rita when you say, get the proper pin, I presume the thought is that the pin that was in there was not the correct size? It was a 5/8" pin in a 5/8" hole. Sure the pin could have been longer so that the angled part of the pin was not always up against the receiver. I had presumed that there would be no issues with the pin touching the receiver and that the metal of better grade. I think the direction I'll take is to find a shank that fits the 2.5" opening and get a straight 5/8" pin. I'll also let the dealer have a look, just in case they conclude that they think the metal should have been a better grade as well. Cheers FB

The image below is from a 2021 Ram 3500 with a factory installed class V hitch. According to the "Towing Basics" document put forth by FCA (Fiat Chrysler Automobiles), a Class 5 hitch should be good for 1800Lbs tongue weight.My Trailer usually scales out at 8800 to 9300 lbs with a tongue weight of between 900 to 1000 lbs depending on the trip.I'm using a Blue Ox WD hitch. The truck has a little over 20000 miles on it and I would guess that 17500 of that is towing.Any ideas what could cause the deformation in the receiver? I rarely hear any slack in the hitch when connected. It's deformed enough that I will need to pry the insert out because it won't slide out. It seems to be just on the one side. The pin is original. I'm suspecting it might be the curve ended pin I'm using, that has been moving, ever so slightly (at first) with the shank, that has deformed this. I flipped the pin in the hole to get a better picture of the deformation. The metal must be getting cheaper, this type of issue didn't occur with the 2004 Dodge I had. Any comments about going to a straight pin, that's easy to remove when I don't want to tote the hitch everywhere and adding Hitch Clamp? I've looked for a hitch clamp that will fit a 2021 RAM, but haven't found one that fits the 2.5" ID OEM hitch with a 2" adapter. Maybe I should replace the shank with a 2.5" one. At Blue Ox, it's $295. I'm sure there are others out there that will work. Thanks for the feedback.

I was using Opera for the past year or more and found it to be an easy to navigate browser with some good features UNTIL, I was (re) introduced to BRAVE browser. It really does seem to do what it says, blocks tracking cookies and other ads as well as additional privacy! Anecdotal evidence again, I use the app "Superantispyware" to check for abnormal items (cookies / trojans / PUPs) and spyware in my computer. When I was using EDGE or CHROME, or FIREFOX and even some Opera to look for things on the internet, Superantispyware would find somewhere around 300 to 500 ( or more) tracking cookies. I've been using BRAVE for about 3 weeks or more and ran the same computer scan with supreantispyware after more than a weeks use. This time, there were 3 tracking cookies and they were related to a moment of weakness when I used EDGE. I've replaced OPERA on all of my machines and made BRAVE the primary browser, including on my phone. Don't take my word for it, try it to see if you like it.

anecdotal evidence that the USB transfer rate changed between the windows7 OS and the linux cinnamon. Windows 7Mb / sec Linux 20-25Mb / sec Boot up time appears to be comparable. I haven't done anything to tax the processor on the laptop yet. The laptop will be a travel buddy, to access RV travel wizard web page on the road when I can get Internet service.

This thread, while an interesting exchange of information, is DEAD. The OP posted the question on July 16th and then never returned to log in again. One of the moderators could send this to the "closed" bucket.

New or used, there are some things that should be checked before you buy. Although this list was meant for NEW purchase, there are many items on the list that should spark an idea of what to look for. I wasn't able to upload the PDF this information came from so, I used the copy/paste method. This list is quite extensive, but by the end, you'll be going into the sale with your eye wide open.. Check for gray & black tank labels (exterior) installed in reverse order Fenders not attached to center support AC electric breakers were labeled wrong or not labeled at all Fuses blowing on electric slide out during operation Damaged bed slide seals (from rain gutter) Check all slide out seals for rain leaks Check antenna crank handle for water leaks (on roof - check caulking) Check all roof-opening sealants for cracks/leaks Water leaks around shower/behind tub surround/tub faucet Exterior A/C gasket leaking water to interior of trailer Check all "access door" for rain leaks (might have to use hose) Check exterior compartment door seals for water leaks Cracked plastic LP bottle cover (if equipped) Wrong size mattress on bed Remove vents & look in ducks for signs of crushed air duct Cabinet doors rubbing cabinet face when opened Loose exterior wires where battery attaches to frame & battery Water tank gravity fill hose (inside) too high to allow water tank fill Loose plumbing fittings / pinched water lines Look for loose or missing trim Cracked medicine cabinet housing near mounting screws Check mirrored door for security of mirror Check all electric switches for proper operation (on AC & DC) Fit & adjustment of entry doors, & screen doors Ensure bathroom vent fan turns correctly (should blow OUT) Stereo for reception/interference - DVD Player - MP3 Player Loose wires/burning wires inside converter Electric slide outs blowing fuses/check slide several times Emergency Exit Use - anything blocking access to handle or exit Gas struts that close doors & some beds -- make sure they are secure!! Section 2 This section should take around 1 hour. At this point, you're generally searching for anything that doesn't look right. The assumption for this PDI ( Pre delivery inspection) is that both (if fitted) propane tanks are full, shore power is available, city water connected via hose & you are connected to a sewer connections. A fully charged battery must be connected as well. Roof Sealing & Fixtures - You will need to get up on the roof now so round up a ladder or carefully inspect the one on the back of the unit. Check that all the mounting points are solidly attached to the body & the rungs are firmly fixed to the frame. Climb on the roof & inspect all seams, gaskets & any other place that the roof material has been cut or holes drilled. Check that all shrouds & covers are intact, unbroken & properly seated on the roof. Proper polyurethane caulking should have been used to seal all places where the roof has been penetrated. Check closely around air conditioners, vents, antennas, sewer vents, & side seams. Look for any signs of bubbles (large & small), delamination, foreign objects or protruding screw or nail heads under the membrane (if a rubber roof). ** Take shoes off...best in your socks or barefoot. Windows - Check closely around each window to make sure it has been properly aligned & sealed. Entry Doors - check the gasket used on all doors for proper adhesive & coverage. Look closely at the door from the inside & confirm that it sits flush against the inside of the doorjamb. Confirm that each key works in the appropriate lock. The main door should open & close smoothly & lock without undue effort. Check that the screen door opens smoothly alone & locks to the main door without any extra effort. Outside Compartments - open & close each door checking for alignment & gasketing. Confirm that each key works in the appropriate lock All hinges should be tight & secure & the latches should hold the door tightly closed & still be easy to open. Look for any signs of moisture that might indicate rain leakage. Verify that compartment lighting (if fitted) works properly. Any gas cylinders used for keeping to door open should be properly installed so as not to interfere with items stored in the compartment. If clamp-type door hold-opens are used, make sure they are present & hold the door correctly. Sewer & Fresh Water Connections - Inspect this area on the trailer to make sure that nothing is broken or deformed. If appropriate at this time, make sure you understand how each valve or fitting works. understand the proper function of the black & gray water valves. If tank flushing is installed, understand how it operates. understand where the low point drains are for the fresh water system. Cable TV Connections- Find & understand the cable connections. Make sure a weather cap is present for each connector & that connectors are properly identified & mounting plates are properly sealed. Propane -If the tank(s) are contained in a compartment, here should be no possible way for propane to enter into the RV or any other compartment. understand how the regulator works & how it switches between cylinders. Confirm that a leak test has been performed on both pigtails between the tanks & regulator & the rest of the system. Locate & understand the operation of the main shut off valve (if any). Battery - Check the battery box to verify that it is ventilated & that any compartment slide mechanisms work properly. Verify that no battery cables are rubbing on any part of the frame because that will eventually end up with a short circuit & possible fire. understand the battery type provided & how to maintain them. Tires & Wheels - Closely inspect the tires & wheels & understand the proper inflation pressure. Verify the torque of the lug nuts or have the PDI person do it while you watch. Find out the proper jacking point for the trailer & what kind of jack to use. Determine if your tow vehicle lug nut wrench will fit the lug nuts on the trailer or if another size is necessary. Check the condition and pressure in the spare tire as well as how to remove it. Paint & Siding- Carefully check the paint finish on the RV. Any problems can be verified & corrected at this point with a lot less hassle. Site down the side of the unit to check for bumps or depressions in the siding. Divide each side of the unit into 2, 3 or 4 sections & inspect for siding issues: color variations, dents or irregularities. Do the same for the ends of the unit Look at places where vinyl film is used to make sure it is free of any air bubbles. Check ends of any decals for uniformity or "mistakes" that may have gouged the siding. Look closely where masking tape was used for paint graphics to make sure there is no over-spray. Carefully check for surface smoothness & any place when paint coverage is marginal or where there are bubbles. Awning(s) - Extend & retract each awning paying particular attention to how the awning is locked in the retracted position. Make sure all springs, locks & supports work well & are properly aligned. Wiggle the mounting points for the support arms to get a feeling for how solidly they are mounted to the body. Slide Out Operation - If your RV includes a slide-out or slide-outs then spend the time it takes to understand its operation. Start by checking the seals while the slide is retracted. You should not be able to find any places where you can see light or detect airflow. Use a flashlight to look into dark corners. understand the mechanism that extends & retracts the slide. Operate it several times & understand any restrictions on operation. understand the manual retraction process & actually perform the retraction as if the automatic mechanism had failed. Look for proper alignment of any wheels that may ride on carpet or other flooring, to insure proper clearance. understand any locking mechanisms that are used to hold the top of the slide out tight against the top of the RV. Do your best to make sure the seals are properly installed & operational when the slide is retracted & also when it is extended. Chassis Inspection - Put on some old clothes or coveralls & get a good-sized piece of cardboard or carpet to make it easier to lie on you back while checking around under the trailer. If it's possible to do so without jacking up the rig, it's a lot easier, but do what makes sense to you. You want to be able to Inspect all air & / or hydraulic lines, wiring, shock absorber attachments, & in general every place that a wire or pipe could rub against something that could cause a problem later. All wiring & piping should be properly fastened. INSIDE FIT & FINISH Cabinets - Inspect & open all of the cabinets to insure that the hinges & latches work well. Pull each drawer out to its stop, return it closed & then try to open it like road vibration might do. Makes sure that there have been no water leaks & that all the wiring & pipes are well fastened. Inspect the linings (if any), to insure they are fastened securely. Run your h& along all edges, front & back to check for & delamination or loose edges on molding/vinyl wraps. Molding & Trim - Go over all the trim on walls, doors & furniture. Make sure that everything is fastened on well & not loose or ready to come off. Lighting - Operate every light switch & observe its function. Use the monitor panel to check battery levels. understand & verify any battery disconnect switches. (at this point, only 12V lighting can be tested, as the unit is NOT connected to shore power yet) Closets -open & close all closet doors checking for free operation & proper alignment. Hanger rods should be properly fastened & secure. Check out the lighting that is provided & any switches that are used. Furniture - Examine every piece of furniture to check for construction, upholstery, pattern & cloth matching. Check out the dinette by making it a bed with the appropriate cushions. Do the same with the couch or sofa. Blinds - Operate each blind & check for alignment. Look at all valances & trim to be sure they are secured. Counter Tops - Inspect all counter tops for alignment & fastening. Make sure that any trim pieces that should be there are in fact tight. Check for caulking quality everywhere there may be water, especially edges near a sink. Check the installation of sinks & faucets. Floor Coverings - Inspect carpet & other floor coverings in all corners to insure that they have been properly fastened down. Check areas that slide outs may roll over for pulled threads, cuts or other problems. Check closely for gouges or cuts in linoleum tile. Wall Coverings - Check to make sure that all the wall coverings actually cover & join properly. Look for any discoloration or patch jobs that may cover hidden problems. Try to find any places where it is not perfect since now is the time to get it fixed while matching patterns are in stock. (Some folks suggest ordering extra fabric, carpet, & wallpaper now so that matching material is available to make small modifications or repairs at a later date.) OPERATION TEST OF ALL SYSTEMS Shore Power System - Now is the time to connect up to shore power. Pull out all of the AC cord, confirm the length & inspect the plug for proper attachment. Inside the unit, check any 110V lighting & switches. (If you have a 110V receptacle tester, check all outlets for proper wiring/polarity.) Find the GFI-protected outlet & test using the push button. understand which receptacles "down stream" from the GFI are protected. Any electrical problems here should be corrected immediately. Converter - Confirm the operation of the converter/charger that is installed. Turn on several interior lights to create a load for the converter & confirm no excessive converter noise or vibration. Have the PDI person explain the operation of the converter, the AC circuit breakers & the DC fuses. Make sure that there is a written list of the loads connected to each. Water Pump - fill the fresh water tank, so now you can test the function of the water pump. After turning it on, you should hear it pump for several seconds, even up to a minute to create enough pressure in the system. If the pump does not shut off, then there is a problem. Run water in the kitchen & bathroom sink & notice that the pump will come back on until proper water pressure is restored. Now is the time to fix a noisy pump if it is vibrating or making any irritating sounds. City Water System - Turn off the pump, connect up to city water (use a regulator if overly high pressure is suspected) & confirm that the connection works correctly. Look for leaks under sinks & confirm the operation of all fixtures. Air Conditioners - Some air conditioners also have a heat strip or heat pump feature so now is the time to verify these functions. Turn on the air conditioner. After a couple of minutes, cool air, 20 degrees cooler than ambient, should be coming out of the registers. If you unit has ducting in the ceiling, make sure a good airflow comes out of each register. Learn how to clean the filters at this time. Propane & Carbon Monoxide Alarms & Smoke Detector- now is a good time to check the function of these alarms. The PDI person should have a small canister of gas that can be sprayed at the alarm to test its operation. Have them perform this test while you watch & learn how the alarms work. Confirm that there is a new battery in the Smoke Detector (write the date on it for reference) Activate the test button to check operation of the smoke detector. understand how to turn it off. Tanks - Re-fill the fresh water tank if necessary & run water into the gray tank to verify the gauge reading & that there are no leaks. Filling the gray tank until water comes up in the shower will make it easier to find leaks inside & out. Do the same thing to the black water tank, including filling so that water comes up inside the toilet. Check for leaks (if the toilet is installed correctly, there will be no leaks!) You can fill the black water tank by using the tank flushing system (if fitted), by using a garden hose adapter for the sewer connection (through a backflow preventer) or by bringing the water hose inside & filling the tank through the toilet. This last method can be a little cumbersome, & I don't recommend unless you've done it before. Check the gauges for accuracy while you are filling Now is the time you want to find leaks if there are any. Drain the gray & black water tanks using the sewer hose or the garden hose adapter. Furnace - Now its time to understand the operation of the thermostat that controls heating & sometimes the air conditioning. Turn the furnace on & set a temperature dem& that is at least 10 degrees hotter than ambient temperature. In about 30 seconds, you should hear the furnace fans come on. Shortly thereafter you should hear the click of the igniter & the sound of the burner. If not then there is a problem. It could also be taking a while for propane to get to the heater, so don't despair. Let the furnace blow & you should get hot air at about 110 degrees coming out of all vents. Check each one. Now turn the furnace down & the hot air will gradually turn cooler & the fans will eventually stop after the furnace has cooled sufficiently. During this process have someone with a good nose checking for any smell of material getting too hot, or exhaust coming out. Water Heater - Try the water heater on propane first. A few seconds after you turn it on, you should hear the click of the igniter & the small pop when the burner lights. The red light should stay on until that process happens. If it does not ignite, then there is a problem. Turn the AC element in the water heater (if connected) & confirm operation. Make sure you know the location of the electrical switch at the water heater & the correct operation of the interior switch. If your unit is so equipped, understand the operation of the bypass valves for winterizing. Confirm that hot (or warm water depending on how long the water heater has been on) comes out of the hot tap at the various sinks. Check the sacrificial rod to see if there is any material left on it. This may take a 1 1/8" socket or something similar. At the end of all of this, you will have a very intimate knowledge of the vehicle. Anything not operating as it should, can be a negotiating point for the price of the RV. This does not cover checking the running gear if you chose a motorhome. Best of luck. hope this was helpful (information borrowed from www.outbackers.com) please return it when you are done.

I dove into Linux Mint this evening. The install was flawless, but the prep was not. I downloaded the .iso file for mint 21 but then had an issue burning it to a USB. So the short cut was to burn it to DVD. Thankfully, I still have a machine to burn with and the laptop receiving the new OS, also had a DVD reader! I sort of expected a butt-load of updates and wasn't disappointed when the update/upgrade screen can up. There certainly were quite a few upgrades. I loaded the linux version of BRAVE Browser from the software manager, and the system alerted me that in addition to the new browser app, would be over a gig of additional support files downloaded... SHeesh! I'm amazed at what I perceive as a performance boost with the new OS! The quad core AMD A6-3400 with 4GB of RAM, seems to be a lot quicker to respond to retrieving information and processing browser information from the internet. I dunno if there was also a "better" driver assigned to my wireless card, but downloads also seem faster. Maybe my subconscious wants it to be faster, so I think it is.. Now to experiment with loading WINE, and the VM software...

the statistics tell a story, and hence the reliance on "Big Data" that you hear of in the news. There was no need to know who visited and when, just that there was a visit. If you were selling something, you could look at the numbers and know that between September 1 and September 8, there was a spike in viewing. Based on the data, you know to advertise for a specific age group too. Based on the poll information alone, It could be surmised that advertising dollars are best spent after September 1st and not July 1st. I believe this is a reason Google, Amazon, Facebook and others with an eye on big data know when to pitch a product, and when to save their resources. I'm sure they have methods for being a LOT more specific in knowing what to spend their resources on and when. my 2¢

Yes there is a workaround. I've not used the product. Here is a link to the workaround that was at the bottom of the article I referenced when starting this string. Hope this helps! a DEF sensor workaround

reminds me of a tale I heard of two gents talking about what they wanted to have happen when they pass away. gent 1: Would you mind pouring a bottle of chevas Regal on me grave when I die? gent 2: Sure, but would you mind if I pass it through me kidneys first? ( best said with an attempt at a Scottish accent) Interesting technology! From the story "A biodegradable electrolyte means that about two-thirds of the battery could be broken down by microbes, with the chitosan electrolyte decomposed completely within five months. " I wonder if that means if you smell a strong fishy scent in the battery compartment, the batteries are dead?

well, this is disappointing... The fraud department at the cell company told me that they don't see any "unusual" activity on my phone or my wife's phone number. He recommended going to FCC.GOV to report the activity. You and I both know that the FCC is a huge juggernaut of a government entity and I'm not likely to get any resolution there. I called MyIDCare, and was told that the information in the report, may not be accurate! The operator told me that they do not recommend going to the address on the report and confronting the person with the information. So, for now, it's just a report that my phone number showed up on an internet scan, the the person identified in the report, may not be the person using it...

The military had a breach a couple of years ago and they gave us access to a site "MyIDCare" that is very inclusive about what they check for. ID, Phone, credit, Sexual predators near by.... Oddly, I get a report about 1 to 2 times a year that indicates my phone number is being used by someone about 22 miles from my house. It could be one or the other homeowners that uses it. The one drawback to the "MyIDCare" site is that they don't give any guidance about how to rectify the phone usage issue and neither do I. I'm calling the Cell company and reporting the activity. The information about the person using the number is pretty complete, including name, address, birth month and year and this last report has a phone number associated with it that isn't mine. We'll see what the cell company has in mind. any other ideas on what to do with this?

@57becky the more I learn, I realize that I need to learn more. thanks for the explanation.

I think that's mostly good news. In Idaho, they have emissions testing which I'm sure several states do. If I purchase or build a workaround, and the truck somehow doesn't pass emissions testing, is there something I can reference to prove that the EPA has winked and nodded at my use of the device? It's also not clear to me what triggers a regen cycle and what sensors need to be satisfied to conclude the regen cycle. I know it causes an increase in temps to "Clean out" the convertor and also causes additional fuel consumption. Maybe I need a crash course in the regen cycle. I'm sure there are sources out there on the University of YouTube.