franco-bolli

Hey Glenn In a previous life, I worked for a solar panel manufacturer that, as have many, went out of buisness in 2012 just before the solar boom took off. When drilling into the frame around the edge, especially from the top side of the panel, be VERY cautious that you can determine where the glass stops in the aluminum frame. It used to be that solar panels were made a lot like a sandwhich of layers of materials. If the edge of the glass is nicked or cracked, there goes the 20 year warranty, because it will be a source of moisture or other contaminants getting in and causing delamination of the layers. If I understand the set up, with two panels side by side lengthwise like this: _________________ | | | | | | | | | | | | |_______ |_______| If they are going perpendicular to the vehicle travel and butted up against one another, holding the center down (stable) would definitely keep the flutter or panel vibration down. BTW, the company I worked for never tested for wind buffeting when mounted on a vehicle and I can't imagine that many companies would. I don't have a solution to hold them down in the middle gap, that wouldn't require a second elbow in your forearm to tighten the screws. Other than a slight gap between them that will allow access to the bolts that hold the "Z" brackets down which would let you use 3 brackets per long edge. I have a 260W panel mounted crosswise on my trailer, and I'm using the "luggage rack" on the roof to hold it down. 4000 miles and no issues yet. Everything still seems solid. I have no idea about the vibration it's experiencing. I may need to mount a "go pro" camera on the roof to watch is as I travel. Using the UHB / VHB tape is a crap shoot. I've used it in places that required a prybar to get apart and others where it wouldn't stick for long. Both surfaces were cleaned with alcohol, dried, and then lightly warmed the tape and surface. Press and hold for 20+ seconds. I hope you get good results with your application. Best of luck, and it will be interesting to hear what you come up with.

I added one of these ( or one very similar to this) just after the pump, with a valve to disconnect it from the system during winterization. Much like the water heater, I don't want a bunch of anti-freeze in there 'cause it's hard to get rid of it all if it gets in there. https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-Thermal-Expansion-Tank-2-Gallon-Universal-Steel-Water-Heater-Pressure-Regulator/5000087243 I pumped it to 50lbs. I'm amazed at how long it will push water before the pump cycles on. The pump no longer "pulses" when the faucet is less than 1/2 open or at any time in a shower. Benefit #2 is I can get 2 to 3 toilet flushes at night and no pump cycle. 😁 Once winterization juice is in the lines, and the system is no longer under constant pressure, I open the valve to the tank again to allow for additional expansion of any remaining drops of water in the tank shoud it get below freezing (again). Fortunately there is enough room under the bench seat near the pump to anchor the tank down on it's side. Safe travels, FB

In My area, where route 84 passes through, the Flying J / Pilot pumps are .30 to .40 more than others in the area. Maybe they are just taking advantage of divers the "absolutely need fuel" and will pay anything rather than use Gas Buddy to find something cheaper. OK, Here is a post that reports an issue. I see that if you search for trouble spots, you will find supporting information, somewhere... I recall reading about the issues, but don't have them at my fingertips. Granted this post is from a long time ago and life/fuel supplies have changed and improved. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/fuel-contamination.161395/#post-1535501 Other sources: https://www.thetruckersreport.com/bad-fuel-from-pilot-flying-j-reportedly-disables-trucks/ I may need to reconsider my stance about the Flying J / LOVES / Pilot self subscribed boycott aside from the fact that they are typically more expensive than others around them, even with a discount of .15 to .18 per gallon. Perhaps my opinion is based on OLD information and is no longer valid. There is no way they could stay in buisness if the fuel was truely poor quality, the big rigs would stay away in droves. There are as many or more posts touting a good experience or at least no engine issues at those stations. The more I learn, I realise there is more to learn. FB

After much reading of posts here on RV Network and on other RV sites, I chose to apply for the TSD / Open Roads card. Being concerned about the access to funds in my regular banking accounts, I created a new checking account that has no cost to me through my credit union(First Tech Credit Union). The account is set up with no overdraft protections, so it's up to me to keep track of the balances, just like any other checking account. No Overdraft so that if someone, somehow gets into it, they can only have what is remaining in the account and I can dispute the usage. I deposited an intial amount into the account and then applied for the TSD / Open Roads card. Theoretically, with the other voice identification, pin number and secret questions I have set up with my credit union, that it should be a lot more difficult to access any other of my credit union funds if the TSD / Open Roads card website or database is hacked. At least that's the plan... I'll need to transfer more into the account as it gets used, which is not an issue with the credit unions online or phone access. As purely a personal choice, I will be avoiding Flying J, Pilot and Love's based on what I've read about the experiences of drivers on Turbodieselregister.com. Yes, I realize that many of the discounted fueling stations available to the EFS- TSD card are those stations.. Thanks for the contributions to this thread, it really helped.

Kirk, your absolutly right, none of them are perfect. This will be an easy fix. Safe travels, and stay healthy.

I joined RV trip wizard and created a route to texas from SW Idaho. The attached image is the routing that Garmin Basecamp provided based on an exported GPX file from Trip Wizard. Trip Wizard didn't have this excursion to a side street. I had hoped that I wouldn't need to review every 1/2 mile of the trip, but it looks like I will need to do so. When I removed this excursion, the map straightened out and followed the path that RV Wizard had suggested. Thanks for the recommendation to RV Trip WIzard! Others in this forum have said this "review the trip before you travel"... Good advice.

Hi Jim, It was my own fault that I ended up on the dead end street, I didn't pre-check the route before downloading it into the GPS. Even with that, if the map was wrong by thinking it was a through street, I may not have caught it. Quite a while ago, I added in POI for HAM repeaters into the trip, where the GPS would alert me when I was within 30 miles of a POI HAM repeater site. I don't have access to the same repeater information and as I recall, it took some extra time to set it all up. It worked OK, but not perfectly and it used up some memory in the older GPS. I made a choice of the RV780 and ordered one from Garmin web site. The price was no more or less than other sites I checked. Based on input and consideration of ideas from folks on this web site, as well as realizing the space limitations on my dash, this was the best choice for me. I'm looking forward to an RV version of the GPS. Thanks to all who contributed ideas and experiences. Safe travels

Thanks for the quick reply Kirk, Each product review I've seen or read has some information that is, well, lets say, needs to be verified as you noted in your reply. I've used Garmins basecamp in my previous Garmin GPS, mostly with sucess. I do need to ingrain the trip review session of each days trip to be sure that I'm not going through a housing sub-division to take the shortest route. I've had a couple of issues with routing that took some back streets in small towns to avoid the main drag. Yes, they were less crowded, but one was a dead end road that continued on the other side of a railroad embankment, which looked like it had been there for many years. Are the all Basecamp routes perfect, No. As much as I would like perfection, I realize that there are issues that need to be reckoned with and double checking the route beforehand helps. Size does matter, especially with displays on a truck dashboard, so I'll be keeping that in mind as well. Thanks again for sharing your time and experience.

Thanks Steven for the tip about Road Wizard, I've found the web site and will be digging in to see if it meets the need. I see the RV LIFE has a 25% Escapees discount and 100 day demo, as seen on the Escapees web site. ~$40/ year and I use my current phone or about $400 now for a dedicated GPS. It turns out the iPad we have, isn't equipped with GPS.. I had my truck built instead of buying it off the lot. The one regret I have is ordering the really cheap display unit instead of the better one, even if it's a car GPS.. Cheers and stay healthy!

Thanks for the detailed reply Kirk, I appreciate you going the extra mile to find the additional information. I found a web site that was influencing my choice while I was comparing notes on the RVNETWORK blogs. Here it is: https://www.rvweb.net/garmin-rv-785-vs-890/ The editor claims that the 890 has 16GB built in where as the 785 does not. The 890 will accept a 256Gb mini sd card where the 785 will accept a max of 16Gb. I've not been able to substantiate the information yet. I'm going to hunt around for a "deal" on the 890 in my planning for our cross country trip from SW Idaho to the Happiest place on Earth (Disney World, Ft Wilderness) in May. THanks also to vermilye for the heads up on the size in the F-150. It would be great to see a picture if you have one. I think we can share images through the private messaging tool here on this forum. Safe Travels and stay healthy!

Great information here. I've been using the Turbo Diesel Register web site for a while and have seen multiple post from long time RAM truck owners that have had bad fuel from LOVES and Flying J. As I recall, most had to do with water or another contaminant in the fuel. As a result, it's been many years since I've used a LOVES or Flying J. As another poster in the thread mentioned, those stations are typically more expensive than other vendors in the area. Although, another poster brings up another good point about avoiding a crappy station because it's cheap, they may have bad fuel they need to get rid of! My most recent dilemma has been finding real #2 diesel fuel, that isn't cut with biodiesel. Sometimes up to 15 or 20%. This is from the owners manual: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 15,000 miles (24 000 km) if operation occurs with greater than 5% biodiesel blends. Oil change intervals should not exceed 6 months in either case. Failure to comply with these Oil Change requirements for vehicles operating on biodiesel blends up to B20 may result in premature engine wear. Such wear is not covered by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty. B20 Biodiesel capable: The engine may suffer severe damage if operated with concentrations of Biodiesel higher than 20% First, I do change the oil before 15k. second, I avoid biodiesel whenever possible. I mention this because on route 84, between Idaho and the pacific coast, There are a LOT of stations that have biodiesel. There doesn't seem to be an alert on Gas Buddy to tell you which station is straight up Diesel #2 or which contains biodiesel and what the concentration is. Personally, I spent A LOT of hard earned cash for the truck, and feeding it fuel that could damage the engine is something I avoid whenever possible. I have (and will do this again) purchased only enough biodiesel from a station to get to another station that does not have biodiesel. OK, this is starting to sound like a rant, and that wasn't the intention. Just voicing my preference in fuel, not starting a political debate about anything. What I have done is created an excel sheet that tries to capture the truck operating expenses and approximate fuel usage and converted it to a cost per mile. With this information, I can tell if it's worth driving 5 miles off of a highway to get to a fuel station to save .10 per gallon. Usually, the breakpoint depends on how many gallons would be purchased. It would be great if the folks at Gas Buddy would incorporate something like that. I may reconsider the gas buddy card... Thanks to all of the contributors to this thread, it's been enlightening.

late comer to the GPS discussion... Even though I've had at least 3 lower end Garmin GPS, that have been less than stellar performers,(turning off when you really need them, touch pad quits working or screen is 10 second delay after a touch, system won't turn off, or won't turn on when you want) Based on the comments in several forum posts, I'm torn between the RV 785 and RV890 and may go with the 890 due to the ability to store more information (256Gb) I've looked on the Garmin web site and downloaded a couple of manuals, but don't see the words "lifetime map update" in the literature or in the sales pitch on the Garmin web site, unless of course, I missed it🙃. For those of you that have the 785 or 890, are the updates free for the life of the product? I've seen a couple of folks comments about other Garmin products that you have to update often to keep the "free" updates going but it's not clear that they are free for the models mentioned. I would hope they are free, given what these are costing now.. Last question, I'm towing a trailer with a pick-up and dash space is becoming a premium as I have the TPMS monitor and a, Back up camera that want to sit up there. Sure I can take the back up cam down until I need it, but have any of you tried to put an 7 or 8 inch display on your dash? If yes, whats been your experience with it blocking line of sight? Thanks for your responses! GFB

I use the heat shrink versions at work daily creating automated devices. They seem to work best when these steps are followed: ONE TIME CREATION: 2 alligator clips 1 -12 gauge solid core wire 4 inches (or to your preference) long solder alligator clip to each end of 12 gauge wire bend wire to form a "U" shape with alligator clips in a "usable" orientation to hold wires to be crimped/soldered, shrink sleeve. don't strip too much insulation! 1/4" at most. put alligator clip from one side of the "U" about an inch down from the stripped wire to be joined add a drop of Electrical flux to one of the stripped ends put the heat shrinkable seal over the wire that the alligator clip is holding insert the other wire to be joined into the heat shrinkable seal position the two stripped ends so they overlap clip the remaining alligator clip to this new wire to hold it in place with both wires overlapped and straight across the flexibility of the 12 ga will allow for adjustment and holding in place. move the heat shrinkable seal so that the solder ring is directly over the two stripped wires. sometimes, I adjust the alligator clips so that they hold they are just on the outside of the heat shrinkable seal so it doesn't move around on the wires with a "GOOD" heat gun ( mine is about 650 Degrees max) turn it on and let it come up to temperature I haven't tried this with a Harbor freight heat gun yet. hold on to one wire with your finger out of the way, and play the heat gun onto the solder ring, rotating either the wire or the heat gun to get to all sides of the ring. Keep moving until the internal ring either disappears or the solder is visible on the stripped wires. The "GOOD" shrinkable seals will completely disperse the solder to the wires, the others won't do this completely but seem to hold well. Make sure to get to both ends of the heat shrinkable seal. DON"T MOVE THE SOLDERED JOINT until the shrinkable seal has solidified, sometime blowing on it will cool it quicker and some of them will cloud up a little bit when they solidify. Before blowing on it, you could reposition the joint so that it's straight in line, but do it quickly. Some have used the "helping hands" alligator clip holding devices, but most times, the wires I need to joint are hanging in the air. In some instances, we use these level nut clamps to join wire. Not Cheap but very effective. There are versions of these that will handle 30 amps. I've been told but have not verified that they are acceptable for home wiring too. Probably not usable outdoors, but they work great for quick connections. https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-412-221-413-Lever-Nut-Assortment/dp/B01GVS7ZES/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=wago+spring&qid=1607204898&sr=8-11 Under the rig, I've also used the 3M Skotch-lock suitcases with the dielectric fill. The fill definitely delays corrosion. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Electrical-Connector-stranded/dp/B0035R7TKO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1VP8KPF2L07WD&dchild=1&keywords=3m+suitcase+connectors&qid=1607205051&sprefix=3M+suitcas%2Caps%2C245&sr=8-3 Just make sure you open the bag and count them, I got one bag, new, with only 18 in there. For Crimpers, have a look at ECLIPSE brand. They have replaceable jaws for insulated and non insulated crimps of many sizes. https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-300-005-Ratcheted-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0050KDKUC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=I3WABBCM1DZS&dchild=1&keywords=eclipse+crimper&qid=1607205231&sprefix=Eclipse+cr%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-3 They work great and won't break the bank to get set up with what you need. Hope this helps, FB

UPDATE: I contacted Northwood who makes Arctic Fox about this issue and they recommended that I chat with Tredittire.com where Northwood gets the rims for their products, at least that's who they used for the 2017 model I have. I believe that seeing is believing because they didn't question the issue when I had sent the pictures and they have scheduled a new rim to be shipped to me. I also checked into having the rim repaired by one of the local wheel repair stores I've used before, and was estimated that the repair would be $200. Considering I can't find a replacement wheel here in the area, and ordering one would probably be as costly, I may get this defective one repaired and use it as a spare. Thanks for the comments! I originally started this to inform that being persistent can sometimes pays off.

Thanks for hte replies. This one has "Made in China" molded into one of the spokes. I'll have a look at the Alcoa wheels, I've never really liked the Black with silver star pattern with this rig. @Kirk W You are correct, the spare is a steel wheel that not even close to the original design. It's ok for getting home but it would look odd for normal use. I've written to a contact at the Northwood Manufacturing plant for Arctic Fox(3 hours from me) to see if they would consider replacing it, or get a new one at a reasonable cost. Thanks again for the replies.

I've had the Arctic Fox 25W for several years, and always needed to put air in one of the tires when it sits for any time. Thinking it was the valve stem, valve core or a screw (or something else) in the tread, I coated the tire and wheel with a soapy water. Nothing obvious showed up. Next filled the portable cooler with water and set the tire in it so that it was submerged, well at least a portion of it at a time was submerged. Nothing obvious in a 360 degree rotation. I'm thinking, no bubbles seen, but yet there is a leak.... So, then I started looking a lot closer at the rim, instead of the tire AND as the pictures show, there was a pinhole in the rim on the back side of one of the spokes! Such a tiny hole! Have a look at the green circle in the image. I'm presuming this is a casting issue. It doesn't look like a crack to me. Any thoughts? I wonder if it's repairable? By the way, have you every tried to find an exact replacement for just one of your trailer rims? Best of Luck!! I haven't found one yet. Based on one response from a local dealer, as a guestimate, he said $200+ if the manufacturer had one! No trailer scrapyards within 200 miles of me.. Replacement rims that handle more weight than the ones' I have, can be found for less than $150 and I'd be proud to see them on my rig. Cheers FB

It's hard to tell why folks don't wear a mask. Maybe they are Very Brave and believe they CAN'T get the virus, or they are ignorant to what can be done to reduce the spread. When you see someone without a mask, ask them to boast their reason for not wearing a mask on twitter at #I-killed-grandma (not a real hashtag that I know of). ok, off my soap box.

I installed one of these from Home Depot several months ago. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-Gal-Thermal-Expansion-Tank-EF-TET-2T/304207414 I can flush the toilet 3X before the pump runs again. Northwood did a great job of putting the pump a long ways from the main sleeping area, so even if it does run, I can't hear it. The is a note in the care and feeding document for the expansion tank that says that chlorine "will influence the life of your product." I put it right next to the pump. Its nearly empty when I purged the system last to sanitize. Your experience may differ. Cheers FB

As RV_ mentioned about using Steel Wool, I put a piece of steel wool at the point where the electric cord enters that flimsy white door, to dissuade any rodent intruders. Derek (RV_) brings up several items I'll need to consider to close up the gaps. I like the "walk the plank"! I'll have to try to 3d print one! Thanks for the tips! Cheers FB

My first click on it also took me to an odd site. I refreshed the screen and clicked again and ended up at the service reviews site.. The site only had a few listed, but there was some insight to what is near me. I was able to add comments to one already there as well. Kirk, this is the first time I've had an RV with and Extended warranty, which, thankfully I didn't have to pay for. I have to admit service provider had good craftsmanship in the replacement of the tub, and I understand they can't work for free. The warranty had some ridiculously low number of hours they would pay for to replace the bathtub, something like 3 or 4 hours. I don't blame the manufacturer for the cost of the repair. I think what really irked me was that I also asked them to look at the slide out because it seems very slow and labored to go out. First they told me there was a rock in the channel. I know there wasn't a rock, because I had already been under the trailer and looked for obstructions. Then they claim they lubed the rails and cleaned the slide gaskets. I crawled under the rig again and took pictures when I got home. Later I quizzed them about "where is the lube?" Their reply, "it's a dry lube". I've used dry lube before and there is always some left on the surfaces even though it's dry. There was no evidence of any lube, or cleaning. So, I was disappointed in their reply to that as well. Rather than complain and lose the use of the rig for another 4 weeks, while it got back in line to get serviced, I'll lubricate it myself. I don't think I had unreasonable expectations for the service but maybe I was overly optimistic about what the warranty would pay to get it fixed. Thanks for your replies. FB

Much appreciated for the link! Now I have egg on my face for not thinking of Google before!😳 I'll try to do as much of the service as I can until I can't. Having the list of service folks is very helpful. It looks like I'll also need to spend some quality time with link that sandsys forward. Thanks again! I'll keep my ears open if someone has a person experience they would share. Cheers FB

Mods? HMMM, Maybe I've made a few this summer... Progressive industries Surge protection (permanent under counter, behind cabinet drawer) Third Brake light mounted on a carry rack on hitch mount. 3" wide Copper Tape used to cover every inch of the vent cover over the main bed to make it darker. Slim Shade for RV doors (both doors) mounted upside down so I can have a little privacy by peeking out the top of the shade. Turn Signal indicators 1/2 way down the side of the rig Bright LED back up light. pressure tank added by water pump to stop the on-off cycling Blue Ray DVD player under cabinet near entertainment center. Reclaimed space under the cafe bench seats (both) and above the drawers. There's about 3 1/2 inches of space to store documents. motion sensing LEDs under sink cabinet, side slide out compartment and directly over the main entry door. HUGE Camco level to front of trailer, so I don't need to get out and check 4 or 5 times... TST 507 TPMS Installed on truck and trailer Cheers FB

Thanks for the feedback Twotoes and Kirk! I would classify my wife and I as Sometimers, with the idea in the next couple of years of becoming part timers while we visit as many National parks as will let us in. I have also read and heard about questionable follow-up after the deal with CampingWorld. Thankfully, they don't carry either of the two brands I'm searching for, however, they do have my name if a used one comes through on trade. I'd like to reach out to a local RV Club, but according to the map of clubs on the SKP web site, the nearest is northern Idaho panhandle, about 5 (or more) hours away. Kirk, you're spot on with developing a relationship with the dealership and that is the primary reason for my query, has anyone had a good experience purchasing and with service in SW Idaho. I visited Thundermountain (Arctic Fox dealer) in LaGrande Oregon to have a look at a FOX Mountain rig, but the rig wasn't WOW, so we passed. The salesman was very up front with us, so had we found a rig may have considered it, BUT it's 3 hours from home. And TwoToes hit the mark with service on a rig bought at another dealership is, well, not a priority for the local guys. I took my Arctic Fox to Nelsons RV in Boise for some warranty work (had an extended warranty from the previous owner) and still got soaked for costs above and beyond what the warranty covered for a bathtub replacement. I have pictures of what they called "lubricating the slide channels" that anyone would be hard pressed to see any lube. Needless to say, I'm not fond of Nelsons service guys. I'll keep my hopes up that someone on these blogs has found the diamond in the rough for dealerships, private or MEGA shop, within 150 miles of Boise. Thanks again for your reply. FB

Greetings! It seems there is no lack of advice on YouTube that tells you that finding the right dealer/service provider is as important as finding the right rig. The advice is, if the dealer your working with seems shady or dishonest, to walk away. I guess this means that if that particular dealer sells the model you want and you don't like the salesman/technical advisor/service manger, you walk away and resign yourself to going to another dealer for that brand. Even if that means they are hundreds of miles away. Then if you need service on the rig??? OK to the main question, who, of the various big names in SW Idaho or nearby, are reliable to sell any of these 2 brands: KZ (Durango Half-ton 5ver), Outdoors RV (Glacier Peak 5ver) . I know of Bretz and Bish and Dennis Dillon as well as Camping World. Where can I find testimonials for these for purchase and service, besides the canned and cleaned versions I see on their website? Thanks for your time in replying, FB

You probably already know this.... If you are a disabled military veteran (yes even 0%), Oregon will let you stay in their state park campgrounds for 10 days a month. No more than 5 consecutive days in one park. Yes, you have to pay the registration fee if you reserve online or over the phone. No you don't need to be an Oregon state resident for this Disable Vet benefit. Yes you have to take your chances about which spot you get when you register for a campground spot, no preferential registration you will wait just like everyone else. I have not tried to use this benefit for a Yurt or cabin. You will need a letter from the VA verifying your disability rating to send to Oregon Parks dept. Take a copy of that same letter to your local BLM office, and get you very own Lifetime, National parks pass. I've had one now for about 5 years.. Cheers FB