oldjohnt

A bad thermocouple may well be the problem, that's the FIRST thing I'd consider after checking all the connections and plumbing. I've replaced many pilot and thermocouple assemblies over my 50 years of RVing lol They are readily available at RV dealers and Amazon and E Bay, have the make model and serial number handy..........Im speaking of she will light and stay lit as long as you hold it down but goes out on release BAD THERMOCOUPLE perhaps One other minor problem Ive seen is the adjustment/placing/distance of the flame so it isnt placing enough heat on the thermocouple which can cause that even if the tc is okay. I have carefully bent/adjusted the flame tip so it hits the TC better...The flame needs to be heating up the tc, if not or the tc is out of place or something is bent it may not hold in. I once saw a tc had come loose out of its holder and after I got it back in the right place she worked fine...... One other problem is low gas pressure, you may want to check the tank regulator etc One other problem may be the mechanical plumbing/fitting/tightness of the assembly up top of the stove One last problem Ive seen is the small thin tc tube got bent or kinked John T NOT a plumber or oven expert see what they have to say. Im sure there may be other causes the fine gents here can add to this

I would guess that to be true ???? (but not being there or armed with a manual or info I cant say) based on the many Ive seen or owned or sold. Its been yearsssssssssss that electric fuel pumps have been located inside the tank and of the dozens and dozens of onboard RV gensets Ive seen or owned indeed the elec fuel pumps are on the generator. Its back to a line restriction (pinch off or too sharp kinking bend) or a steel line is rusting and Ive seen old rubber lines harden up and start to deteriorate with small black particles clogging a filter or pump. Replace lines and add one more clear inline filter may be one solution ????????? LET US ALL KNOW WHAT YOU FIND Happy New Year John T

If the tank is full of rust n crud it about has to be removed. As far as the fuel pump and clogging, I've (owned RV's fifty years) had fuel lines start to decompose and those particles clog the filter and pump. You may need to run new fuel lines BOTH any old rubber portions as well as steel. Another thing I've done is add yet one more clear in line fuel filter between the tank and genset as they are so easy to see inside and replace if needed. Even though its typical for the genset fuel pickup NOT to reach the tanks bottom (many around 1/4 tank) road driving and bumps and vibration and turns might still possibly get some rust n crud near the genset line pickup area. One hopes a fine mesh screen (if one is on there ???) on the pickup might keep rust n crud out of the line but who knows, hard to say here in the dark ?????????? Ive seen other fuel pump problems caused by excessive flow resistance like pinched smaller sections or too many twists n sharp turns in the line etc. With a long line and especially smaller lines (or any for that matter) any air leaks are a killer... Problem is some of those lines ESPECIALY at the top of the tank may be hard to get at grrrrrrrrrrrr Best wishes and Happy New year John T

I can't argue against that.......Hopefully a QUALITY SCC or Converter/Charger will control and limit charging voltage and current so the BMS never has to perform drastic measures......Typically I don't run my scc and Converter at the same time (never a problem if I do AND NO THEY ARE NOTTTTTT THE SAME BRAND OR DESIGN LOL) but regardless, if one or both are up n running charging current pretty well shuts down as near 100% SOC approaches, so far so good KNOCK ON WOOD........... Best wishes Randy I appreciate your expertise, Im never too old to learn I hope !!! John T

Randy, you and I agree different controllers still work. If I had to buy two because of mis match solar arrays my first choice would still be the same brand and type etc., (no harm in that) but hey if you're upgrading and modifying that may not be possible, it seems anytime I repair or upgrade Im told THOSE ARE NO LONGER AVAIALBE AND ARE OBSOLETE GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR In a "perfect" world I would still prefer different charge methods/equipment be identical in all respects and parameters BUT HEY how often do we get that opportunity lol so we go with whatever works which Im sure and you have experienced will be fine.............At times I may have BOTH my smart converter/charger as well as my solar charge controller (different brands alltogether) running charging my Lithium bank and Ive experienced no problems same as you report. Once 100% SOC is reached I think the BMS also exerts a degree of control and limiting regardless how many different chargers are running.. but I have so specs or data to confirm that just observation... The OP may NOT have a choice and have to go with whatever he can find which will still work. Nice chatting with you now take care. John T Also retired

Chad, HUGE THANKS for your inputs, looks like all of us here pretty well agree on this one yayyyyyyyyyyyyy team...I really appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share it with us... Randy, FWIW I agree if different NON MATCHED solar arrays are used separate charge controllers is a good method. I will only add if I had my preference any solar charge controllers would be the same brand/design/style (talking their charging output) and used the same charging parameters VERSUS different brands, styles, designs and charging algorithms (even though sure can still work). And compared to the cost of Lithium batteries and panels, charge controllers aren't all the expensive and correct use could possibly ??? add to a batterys lifetime. If the OP were to find a matched panel and his charge controller (assuming appropriate??) can handle the combined energy and specs THAT WOULD BE GREAT.....If he has to use non matched panels, I vote for separate controllers and even better if both had the same specs !!!!!!!!!! while sure even if not the exact same they can still work and the batteries internal BMS has control over those type of things also Fun sparky chat for us techy types lol Happy New Year everyone John T NOT a solar expert so listen to them versus me

AMEN I agree, you can't beat a professional installer. Looks like all the rest of us pretty much agree, it will be fun to see if we were right or wrong ??????????????? Hapy New Year everyone John T

Dan I'm an electrical engineer but NOT any solar expert or installer, so see what the experts have to say: In general as you already know, its best if multiple panels are the same ....As far as matching WATTS of power, if both are 24 volt panels but one is higher watts, that means it can pump more current IE it would have a DIFFERENT/HIGHER current rating...So see below the consequences of using different current (even if same voltage) rated panels.. 1) Its my understanding its best if panels wired in PARALLEL are the same voltage. I'm sure you understand the problem if one were say 24 volts and another higher (say 30), the voltage wouldn't be higher then the lowest (24) voltage panel. 2) Its my understanding its best if panels wired in SERIES are the same current. If they are different amperage the current is limited to that of the lowest current panel Sure voltage is additive if different voltage panels are wired in series HOWEVER current is limited to the lowest current rated panel Sure current is additive if different panels are wired in parallel HOWEVER voltage is limited to the lowest voltage rated panel In my system I used series parallel with matched panels in parallel in series with two other matched panels. If you're stuck with different panels but its possible, I would use different solar charge controllers As far as I know you can parallel two same voltage battleborns to double the Amp Hour energy storage capacity but not sure (but youre not doing that anyway) if they approve series if you were building a higher voltage bank... Cant you buy another panel of the same voltage and current of the one you already have ???? If so then you need to decide between series (higher voltage less current) or parallel (higher current same voltage) . As long as your solar charge controller is adequately rated I like the higher voltage/less current that a series connection would give you. Again check with the experts don't take my word for it John T

WE had planned to go there a few weeks ago but had to pass, then the shows were at 11 and 3 John T

My biggest concern as far as storing critical sensitive personal data on my phone or computer IS SECURITY in case of hackers or loss of phone or laptop grrrrrrrrrr. Be sure and investigate that when making your choice. Happy New Year everyone John T Live in the RV headed to a Bluegrass Festival in Arcadia Florida, warm n sunny

Hi Glenn, thanks for asking, I have a small Class C with limited roof space for solar panel mounting, but since my energy requirements are only moderate and I don't need to power an AC unit, I designed a system capable of powering ALL EXCEPT AC and all I could fit on the roof was a modest 1080 watts of Solar which serves all my energy use (Microwave, Insta Pot, Ninja Air Fryer, Hair Dryer, Coffee, electronics etc) fine, coupled with my 400 Amp Hours of Lithium and a 2KW PSW Inverter. If I had a larger RV (and was okay if I was limited to huge RV friendly locations) and needed to run AC (I follow the seventies don't need AC), then Id need a larger system such as yours and many others but we chose easy mobility and dry camping in remote mountains and some Natl Parks that are NOT big rig friendly. Of course, my engine starting battery is FLA and IS NOT coupled with my house battery system NOTE as I mentioned I might consider a DC to DC Charger that uses my engines alternator to help charge my house Lithium batteries if its cloudy n rainy days on end and Im driving long days. I still have my onboard Cummins Onan Genset if needed to power my 80 Amp Converter/Charger or a big 120 VAC load or AC etc etc Ive see small van campers with only 100 solar watts as well as huge Fifth Wheels or Motorhomes with huge energy demands and maybe 2000 + solar watts TO EACH THEIR OWN ENERGY REQUIREMENTS AND CHOICES...THERES NO RIGHT OR WRONG ONE SIZE FITS ALL ANSWER An Energy Audit is a good way to design a system Nice chatting with you Glenn Happy New year everyone John T

Thats a wise and often typical choice Glenn........I keep mine separate of course (Lithium coach, FLA Engine) and about the only mod I may consider is a DC to DC to help charge house batteries if I'm driving and its cloudy n rainy days on end when my solar isn't capturing much energy. Happy New Year John T

Glenn Im sure you already know this but if you connected Lithium batteries direct to your engines alternator (with its voltage regulation designed for FLA) absent any buffering or overcurrent protection they would draw much higher current then FLA or AGM and if the alternator were not protected it may suffer damage. Thats the job of the DC to DC chargers to draw energy from the alternator BUT NOT EXCESSIVE to supply charge to the house batteries be they Li or FLA or AGM subject to their setting. Again, Ive seen that used for 12 VDC house batteries (Li or FLA or AGM) but not sure if they make them for 24 or 48 volt systems ??? With such a HUGE system you're talking, if your house batteries and Inverter were 48 volt that would reduce current flow (just use 48 to 12 DC to DC for your house loads) but hey all 12 is fine and will work also............. YOUR CHOICE either works Its fun spending YOUR money lol Best wishes Glenn take care and once your done PLEASE GIVE US A FINAL DESIGN AND DRAWING OF YOUR SYSTEM !!! John T

NOPE you can't parallel Lithium with FLA or AGM. HOWEVER people do use DC to DC Converters to allow the engine battery and alternator to charge the house batteries when driving even if different chemistry PROVIDED THAT the DC to DC has appropriate charge settings and proper voltage ????? to match Lithium or FLA or AGM house battery banks.......Ive seen them for 12 volt to 12 volt (FLA or AGM or Li) but not so much higher voltages, check with Victron etc. I envision the 24 and 48 volt battery banks and Inverters for larger systems to reduce current and cable sizes coupled with 24/48 Volt to 12 Volt DC to DC for 12 volt coach appliances etc. But hey theres all sort sorts of options out there to each their own, straight 12 or 12 and 24 or 48 depending on energy needs. Your money your choice Happy New Year everyone John T

The 24 or 48 VDC to 12 VDC DC to DC Converter is of course a way to deal with higher voltage battery arrays. I thought we already went through all that a while back ??? Happy New year everyone John T

Glenn, as a designer and per the NEC back then, if a load was designed to operate on a 20 Amp Branch Circuit, the "Maximum Continuous Current" was no greater then 80% or 16 Amps. Of course we preferred it be even less where possible. Best wishes John T

Randy, I had a Xantrex but it failed grrrrrrrrrrr I also get by fine with my Renogy 2KW however, and its performed great. In our smaller RV with moderate energy requirements I don't see any need to change either, as they say " if it aint broke don't fix it" right ? lol Best wishes everyone John T

Glenn if the Power factor is 0.93 (2800/3000) that's right. PF = Watts/VA In a pure resistive unity one power factor Watts = VA However that's NOT an inductive motor load lol John T

Where at in Florida in January ?? I'm in south central Florida that time of year and would enjoy taking a look... John T

A Soft Start unit greatly eases the initial start up surge of an AC. The 3000 actual Watts may (subject to load) run two AC's IN THEORY, but if one is already running the Soft Start on the second is a Godsend .........The typical 30 amp RV has but one AC anyway, and I agree a 3KW is what Id use to run an AC via an Inverter even if a 2KW might get you by with a Soft Start........ Glenn, it's a motors inductive load such as a compressor where Power Factor comes more into play, so the VA rating is an informative spec.......... PF = W/VA or Real Power/Apparent Power. Nice chatting with your gentlemen Merry CHRISTmas John T

Thanks for the update Rod, For sure a good quality adequate sized PSW Inverter and four GOOD?? batteries can run a residential fridge for X hours. Even if a cheaper MSW works on some appliances I still recommend a PSW. True an energy audit is the way to better design an entire system. I hesitate to recommend brands other than the personal experience I posted above. One person on here can testify a certain brand worked great for him while another says they are terrible lol. I enjoy watching DIY Solar by Will Prowse and his reviews. There's plenty of Inverter brands as well as reviews and opinions out there so do your homework and make YOUR choice John T

Sure a 2 KW in theory can power an AC (Subject to its size) ESPECIALLY if it's equipped with a Soft Start ORRRRRRRR the Inverter has adequate short term surge capacity to allow an AC to start, which some may well have. Again for all EXCEPT AC a 2KW can indeed work while GENERALLY SPEAKING a 3 KW is better for AC or more loads. PS a Mini Split would indeed be great if you chose a 2 KW Your money your choice John T

Merry CHRISTmas and best wishes to all here John T Live in the RV free dry camped in sunny Florida at Lake Istokpoga Boat Ramp SFWMD southeast of Sebring

You ask what most people are using, I can only say what I use but have observed a ton of others, so heres my best answer, take it or leave it lol On a 30 Amp RV to run ALL EXCEPT AC when dry camped I get by fine with a 2KW PSW and I have plenty of Lithium Battery capacity with solar recharging to supply it. If you're looking more at whole house and especially one AC, I've seen 3KW as the MINIMUM Inverter. If you expect to run AC while at the same time microwave and crock pot and hair dryer etc you may need the 4 or 5 KW you asked about PLUS ENOUGH BATTERY !!!!!! Plus enough solar or other recharging Hope this helps, best wishes John T

Older fridges may not be as efficient as the later models and what someone THINKS will suffice may or may not be correct !!!!!!!!! I highly recommend a Pure Sine Wave regardless and the size again DEPENDS ON THE FRIDGE LOAD including initial inrush higher start up current. Of course if you need a whole house versus the fridge only determines what size of an Inverter you need but for a residential fridge ONLY about 1KW is the smallest Ive seen used, but again a 2KW allows for future expansion ALTHOUGH for a whole house you may be looking at a 3KW minimum where brands such as Victron shine. With only 400 AH of FLA battery capacity and 200 useable you may or may not be able to run a fridge 24 hrs SUBJECT TO WHAT THE FRIDGE REQUIRES that's also further subject to ambient temps, efficiency and how long and often the door is open ?????? Whole house versus fridge only also determines your transfer switching method. Find out the energy the fridge may need over 24 typical hours,,,,,,,determine how may actual amp hours of stored energy your batteries can supply if full charged,,,,,,,decide on fridge only or other inverter use,,,,,,,,,,,,,then you can size the Inverter and calculate how long your batteries will last before recharging YOU GOTTA RUN AN ENERGY AUDIT AND DO THE MATH to arrive at a more accurate answer. Regardless my best guess (fridge only maybe a bit more) is I would use at least a 2KW PSW the brand and price is YOUR choice......... Best wishes, post back any other questions John T