oldjohnt

The technology certainly exists with each side using their smart phone, my wife and kids n grandkids do it all the time but it's not been my thing lol..........Even easier if we were there armed with our own meters it would be a matter of minutes wayyyyyyyyyyyy less then we have spent trying to help the OP on this forum. Wonder what the voltage reads at the pedestal and at his panel as loads are applied hmmmmmmmmmmm ............... HOWEVER as an Attorney Engineer all sorts of red flags start flapping imagining electrical dudes trying to instruct some novice to check lethal voltages here n there YIKES lol John T

Vern, I always clean up shine n polish the plug blades to get any carbon and oxidation removed and/or even spring or bend them just a tad. We still don't know if his problem is in the pedestal (hope he tries a different one) but if its old n worn out it wouldn't surprise me one bit, in 50 years of RVing I've seen a ton of them worn out or ones that have overheated and are all loose and resistive with bad burned internal wiring connections. If he checks the voltage at the Pedestal and then at his main AC Panel input as I advised under load we will know more. When things overheated its no tellin where the problem is now regardless if in the Pedestal or some of his electricals. Even a badly burned or faulty pedestal or receptacle can show 120 VAC to a volt meter, but try to pull current out of it and things go south QUICK Take care now John T

Vern, good tips in your most recent post above HE NEEDS AN EASY WAY TO SEE IF THE PROBLEM IS AT/IN THE PEDESTAL OR IN HIS RV ELECTRICALS including its cords, connections, switches, plugs, etc. etc. Of course, plugging into another pedestal is one way or else measure volage UNDER LOAD at the pedestal and then at the input of his AC Power distribution panel. WHERE IS THE BAD CONNECTION OR CORD OR OTHER PROBLEM CAUSING THE VOLTAGE DROP ??? I dont know for sure just how or where he is swapping, substituting or temporarily hardwiring his Inverter output (or any pass through) and the shore power so the feed gets to his AC Distribution Panel and how or where he is by passing (or eliminated) any Transfer Switch Functions so we have accurate Shore versus Inverter voltage readings. Oh if we were there armed with your splitter and our meters this would be easier lol Thanks for your wisdom and experience, I appreciate it John T

Thanks for the added info Kirk, wish you the best. John T

Kirk sorry to hear, I hope alls well and you get well soon, keep us posted and if you come up with more ideas of the problem and how to fix it PLEASE LET US ALL KNOW !!!!!!! Best wishes, take care and God Bless John T

Sounds right, even with a bad cord or connection or a pedestal power problem you can still read 120 NO LOAD but much lower so things don't work UNDER LOAD... However the problem may be in your cord or a bad connection instead of the pedestal HOW TO TELL WHICH measure the voltage at the pedestal BOTH LEGS under load (apply loads by switching main and branch breakers in panel on one at a time) and at the RV main panel input under load..........If its low out of the pedestal there's the problem HOWEVER if its still 120 out of the pedestal but low at the RV panel the problem is Yours such as the RV cord or a bad connection..........NOW THATS NOT A DIFFICULT TEST YOU CAN EASILY PERFORM......Is the voltage drop problem in the Pedestal orrrrrrrrrrrrrr in your RV cord or connections or plugs etc You answered your own question: The Inverter is producing adequate power while the Pedestal or your RV (cord or a connection or plug etc) is not due to a resistive voltage dropping problem When it worked there were no bad/loose/resistive voltage dropping connections but now there are. And where is that problem ??? Pedestal or your RV FIND OUT WHICH BY READING MY FIRST RESPONSE ABOVE See above, turn off the RV panels main breaker,,,,,,,,Rig up a means to measure voltage out of the Pedestal,,,,,,,Rig up a method to measure voltage at main panel input,,,,,,,,turn on main then branch breakers one at a time,,,,,,,,,,,see what voltage is out of the pedestal (BOTH legs) and at the panel IF ITS LOW AT PEDESTAL ITS THE PROBLEM, IF ITS OKAY THERE BUT LOW AT PANEL, THE RV WIRING IS THE PROBLEM (cord or connections or plugs or wiring EASY PEASEY YES measure voltage at pedestal (BOTH legs) under load, if its low Pedestal is the problem, if its fine but low at panel your RV wiring is the problem (cord or plugs or connections) ALL IT TAKES TO SOLVE WHERE THE PROBLEM IS LOCATED ARE TWO VOLTAGE READINGS AT PEDESTAL AND MAIN PANEL INPUT AS BREAKERS ARE SWITCHED ON AND CURRENT FLOWS TRY IT !!!! NOTE at a proper wired and working pedestal again I would expect 120 VAC from EITHER L1 or L2 to Neutral and EITHER L1 or L2 to Ground and 240 VAC L1 to L2. Then if you draw current those can drop some based on the amount of current flow, but even at say 20 or 30 or more amps NOT THAT MUCH LOWER UNLESS THERES A BAD/RESISTIVE CONNECTION OR OTHER PROBLEM WHICH A PROBLEMATIC PEDESTAL COULD INDEED EXHIBIT. NOTE your 50 to 30 Amp Dogbone Adapter simply uses one of the 50 Amp L1 or L2 legs to feed your 30 Amp RV its 120 VAC 30 Amp service I WOULD JUST PLUG INTO A DIFFERENT PEDESTAL THATS SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EASYYYYYYYYYYYY to tell if your Pedestal is bad...... Ive seen older pedestals with burned connections or loose ones and carbon and arcing and loose or resistive Neutrals that can cause all sorts of problems grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr MORE QUESTIONS ??? If so let me know John T

No apology needed, alllllllllll of us are here to help and glad anytime we can, with so many helping I know its hard for you to keep up lol. Try our tips ONE AT A TIME as we may have different ideas. WATCH IT BE SOMETHING SO SIMPLE WE ALL MISSED IT grrrrrrrrrrrrr Don't be in any hurry, take my troubleshooting tips ONE AT A TIME. The reason we have to offer so much is because were not there to find out for ourselves so have to cover so many different bases. THANKS FOR THAT UPDATE if the ATS is gone you need to ignore all my tips above regarding it as the cause. BOTTOM LINE if the RV main panel is wired to shore power and its NOT working PROBLEM MUST BE IN THE SHORE POWER such as 1) An open or burned/resistive or partly shorted cord conductor,,,,,,,,,,,,2) Pedestal power,,,,,,,,3) Plug or receptacle or a connection,,,,,,,,In which case look at my methods above of how to use an ohm meter to test the cord for bad or shorted wires while flexing it,,,,,,,,How to check for voltages at the Pedestal (120 L1 or L2 to N OR G, 240 L1 to L2) and AFTER the 50 to 30 dogbone adapter (120 L1 to N or G) AND REMEMBER voltage may be fine with no load but when a load is applied Voltage Drop occurs so appliances many still not function. Checks voltages voltage at pedestal and then at the main panel input with all off and main breaker open, then turn it on and other breakers and loads to see voltage then ??????????????? If it drops drastically THERES A BAD/LOOSE/RESISTIVE wire or cord or connection in your RV portion orrrrrrrrrrr at the Pedestal NOTE you can have a wire or cord with only one teeny wire strand left in place and attached YET THE VOLTAGE CAN STILL CHECK FINE WITH NO LOAD ........But as soon as you apply a load the voltage can drop and/or that small remaining wire burn open WIRES, CORDS, CONNECTIONS CONNECTIONS, CONNECTIONS could be the only problem, in the Pedesatl or in your RV !!!! Thats enough for now I dont want to overload you lol Theres more to be said about AB switches and Grounding and Bonding or floated, switched or non switched Neutrals etc etc but no way Im going there now. Check voltages per the above at pedestal and at main panel with NO loads then turn things on, check again and LET ME KNOW YOUR FINDINGS You're most welcome, Thanks for the updates, Im glad to help, were going to get this yayyyyyyyyyy John T Long retired power distribution engineer BUT NOT ANY SOLAR EXPERT so hope they can add to this

Thats typical on the ones I've owned, if the gen is working the TS doesn't go over to shore power...However my TS doesnt transfer until after a time delay to allow time for the genset to stabilize. I cant be sure how he is using or configured the TS or has tried to by pass the TS to insure shore power or the TS is the problem.. John T

Jim, thanks so much for the updated and detailed information, the more you can provide the better chances we have of helping you. Before I go through all your updates I sense you don’t understand the concepts of 1) “Grounding”,,,,,,,,,,,, 2) The purpose of the GrounDED Conductor (White Neutral) ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,3) The purpose of the Equipment GroundING Conductor (Bare/Green),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,4) Bonding versus Grounding,,,,,,,,,,,,,5) Neutral and Ground are NOT the same. 6) N and G are bonded at the parks main BUT NEVER AGAIN DOWNSTREAM like in the RV panel. NOTE the Grounded Conductor Neutral is to carry the normal return current while the EGC is ONLY to carry fault current YET THERES STILL 120 VAC LINE TO GROUND and maybe due to a mix up or improper grounding or bonding or an open Neutral (coupled with other simultaneous faults or heat caused shorts) you’re reading 120 VAC but its NOT Line to true N !!!!!!!!! FYI 1 In the RV’s main AC panel (unlike the parks main panel, its actually treated as a SUB Panel) the Equipment GroundING Buss is separated and electrically insulated and isolated from the Neutral Buss, the two ARE NOT BONDED TOGETHER. The Ground Buss issssssssssss connected to the RV frame FYI 2 HOWEVER, in the RV parks distribution system the Neutral Buss and Equipment GroundING Buss ARE BONDED TOGETHER. FYI 3 If alls well since N and G are bonded in the parks dist system there would be 120 VAC from Line to EITHER N or G……..If Grounding and Bonding were incorrect or mixed n matched and/or the Neutral were open (coupled with other simultaneous faults or heat caused shorts) the 120 VAC shore power you’re reading at the panel could be the 120 VAC Line to Ground yet there’s no 120 Line to Neutral !!!!!!!!!! If the Neutral got burned open during overheating but the Ground was intact you could read 120 VAC Line to Ground subject to the Grounding and Bonding and incorrect or open or shorted conditions. FYI 4 It gets more complicated with an Inverter or Genset because they create their own N G Bond and that connection is also tied to the frame of the RV. If that’s not configured properly you could end up with multiple NG Bonds while an open N while you can read 120 VAC yet things NOT work FYI 5 Even if the Neutral were burned open (like could have happened when a cord overheated) there could still be 120 VAC from Line to Ground subject to certain conditions. In addition to possible NG shorts caused by overheating TESTING VOLTAGES AT THE 50 AMP PEDESTAL AND QUESTIONS FOR YOU If alls well there should be 120 VAC from EITHER L1 or L2 to Neutral as well as 120 VAC from EITHER L1 or L2 to Ground………There should be 240 VAC from L1 to L2 IS THERE ??????????? If you have a 50 amp to 30 amp dogbone adapter there should be 120 VAC from L to EITHER Neutral or Ground IS THERE ???????????? NOW LET ME WORK THROUGH YOUR UPDATES 1) You state: “all of the testing and tracking had me open the power panel and test all the way through the transfer switch and all of the wiring to the main 30 amp breaker input connection. In every instance, I read 120+ volts at the input to that beaker -- from both the shore power connection and from my solar inverter connection.” MY THOUGHTS If the voltage is correct there yet the Inverter causes the RV to function but NOT shore power (AND ITS NOTTTTTTT A TRANSFER SWITCH PROBLEM) it could be the shore power has a bad/loose/resistive connection or the power cord has a bad conductor, maybe it or a connection got burned when things overheated (including possibly an open Neutral). Remember even if you read full voltage unloaded a bad connection or conductor can cause V = I x R Voltage drop so things still don’t work when using shore power !!!!!!!!!!! 2) You state: “Mysteriously, however, the solar inverter powers the entire RV system just fine. The shore power connection does not power the RV’s electrical system, even though I can read the 120 volts at the 30 amp breaker connection in the power panel. I do not understand that at all. MY THOUGHTS See the above, even if you read full voltage a bad/loose connection or a bad cord can cause the RV to NOT work or an open Neutral may be the problem. ALSO if you're relying ONLY on the TS to transfer the panel over to shore power it may be at fault . I CANT KNOW HOW YOU BY PASSED OR HAVE IT WIRED TO SEE IF THE TS OR SHORE POWER IS THE PROBLEM 3) You state: “ With my limited electrical knowledge, the only variable I could figure was the grounding from/in the old power pedestal. But, I do not have enough knowledge to figure how or why that would be the case? The solar system is directly grounded to the RV chassis and completely separate from the 120 volt electrical system until the connection at the A-B switch and then to-and-through the power panel. Interestingly, the built-in 3600 kw Cummins/Onan genset (one reason why I bought this older RV) is also grounded directly to the RV chassis. MY THOUGHTS Solar panels may or may not be grounded to the RV and a Genset or Inverter has its NG Bond tied to the RV frame but I dont see that as your problem. I don’t think you understand Grounding in the old power pedestal so read what I typed above. 4) You state: “ So my conclusion today is that the problem IS likely something in the shore power system, possibly something to do with the grounding (since grounding is the only variable I see)? It is a very, very old pedestal at this very old RV park where I am staying, which is owned and run by the city. MY THOUGHTS I agree the problem is likely in the shore power system including the pedestal itself !!!!!!!!!!!! UNLESS HOWEVER not knowing how you have wired the Transfer Switch or how you by passed it THE TRANSFER SWITCH ISNT PASSING SHORE POWER THROUGH TO THE MAIN PANEL . If its not working or wired right or has a bad connection, even perfect shore power wont work !!!!!!!! To know for sure if you can isolate and re wire shore power DIRECT TO THE MAIN PANEL to see if that works or not ??? will show if shore power is good or bad TRY THAT and insure the TS is wired right and working with good connections 5) You state: “I don’t really know how to check the pedestal further (until I read your message from today again and again) in the morning MY THOUGHTS see what I typed above for how to check voltage at pedestal and what you should read if alls well 6) You state: “It is a 50 amp ONLY pedestal with NO BREAKER. I do have a surge protector plugged into the 50 amp power source through my 50-30 amp dogbone, and then to my shore power cord. MY THOUGHTS Are there any error codes on your surge protector???? IT COULD BE THE PROBLEM What are the voltages after the dogbone adapter???? See my above for what they should be 7) You state: “ As I came to the conclusion the pedestal and grounding therein could very well be the problem (before I read your detailed information), I also realized that IF there is a grounding or other problem in the old pedestal’s wiring, that also likely would have contributed to the overheating and burn-up of the old shore power twist-lock plug. MY THOUGHTS That could well be possible !!!!!!!!!!!! The shore power problem could be in the Pedestal (burned loose or resistive connection) or improper NG bonding and grounding OR IN YOUR POWER CORD OR A CONNECTION or a bad/open/loose Neutral coupled with other simultaneous faults or shorts. Again the TS could be the problem !! You state: “Please, please, don’t spend any more of your time until I get through the next steps in my testing. I’ll let you know tomorrow whatever I find. MY THOUGHTS no problem in helping you I'm glad to do so and I'm looking forward to what you find If you work through all the step by step detailed instructions I posted above and then work through those I added here and answer the questions I posed, hopefully we can figure this out. Based on your most recent information, here are my new thoughts as to the problem NEW ONES A loose or open or resistive NEUTRAL with simultaneous faults may be the problem. Such can cause all sorts of weird problems and hazards………..Incorrect NG bonding or mix n matched Neutrals and Grounds or improper dual/extra NG bonds. The overheating may have caused some internal opens and some conductor shorts OLD ONES if it’s a shore power problem the problem may be 1) In the pedestal 2) In the cord 3) A bad connection 4) A bad or incorrect wired plug or receptacle or transfer switch 5) The Transfer Switch isnt working to pass shore power through !!!! BE SURE TO BY PASS THE TS TO SEE IF SHORE POWER WORKS THEN ???? REMEMBER full voltage under no load is NOT the same as under load where a line voltage drop can cause things not to work EVEN IF VOLTAGE IS FULL OTHERWISE ONE MORE THOUGHT When the cord and other components overheated the Neutral could have burned open and/or the Neutral and Ground may have got bonded together !!!!!!!!!! YOU REALLY NEED TO CHECK AND OHM OUT THAT POWER CORD There should be near zero ohms end to end of each conductor yet no continuity between any one to another... CHECK THAT.... CORD TESTING With an ohm meter to test for each leads continuity and resistance PLUS to look for shorts from one wire to another flex n bend the cord at the same time looking for problems !!!! If a Neutral were totally open (NOT resistive) there would be no voltage Line to Neutral HOWEVER with overheating there could be other shorts or alternate current paths. If the Neutral were not total open yet resistive, again under load there would be voltage drop so appliances may not (subject to voltage drop) function. Best wishes Jim, hope this and all I posted above helps, work through my suggestions, answer my questions, and let me know what you find. It would really really help to know if you totally (with proper safe isolation) by passed the transfer switch and connected the RV's main panel to shore power to see if it works then ??? If so shore power is okay, if not shore power is the problem EASY PEASEY TEST let me know about all that... NOTE Im running out of ideas here so if anyone has more suggestions or ideas as to the cause, PLEASE ADD TO THESE LOL Im sure I missed some possible causes grrrrrrrr my bad so educate myself and all here as to other possible problems John T NOTTTTTTT any Solar Expert so see what the experts have to say. My experience and expertise is in Electrical Power Distribution Engineering instead of how your solar system functions and your switching configuration.

The above kindly posted by Kirk is how I (absent his system diagram so I cant know) imagined and explained the OP and his transfer switch. My analysis and answer is based on the TS having TWO INPUTS A) Shore Power B Genset Power and ONE OUTPUT that feeds the main AC distribution panel. Its my understanding if he uses and substitutes INVERTER power (instead of shore power) on the A Shore Power INPUT side of the TS all works fine (tells me the TS is working) HOWEVER if its actually Shore Power used on the A Shore Power Input of the TS via the Pedestal and Cord and Plugs and Receptacles it DOES NOT WORK Is that your case????? IF SO THAT TELLS ME THE SHORE POWER IS THE PROBLEM be it the pedestal or cord or his EMS or Surge Protector or a bad connection. YET ANOTHER CONSIDERATION. If the OP has a transfer method that chooses between A Shore Power or B Inverter Power and feeds one or the other via the output to the AC panel THATS A DIFFERENT BALL GAME. If he has that and all works on Inverter power but NOT shore power AND THE SHORE POWER AND PEDESTAL AND CORD AND CONNECTORS ARE ALLLLLLLLL GOOD THEN ITS A TRANSFER SWITCH PROBLEM ALSO Ive seen even different transfer methods and even two switches and sub panels etc SO ITS HARD TO SAY FROM HERE HIS PROBLEM Jes, if your transfer is as Kirk and I imagined work through my analysis as posted above to find the problem HOWEVER if its a different transfer system LET ME KNOW and I will post a different troubleshooting and analysis.. Does your TS select Shore or Genset orrrrrrrrrr Shore or Inverter or Shore and ?? A TS that selects between two inputs be it Shore versus Inverter orrrrrrrrrrr Genset IS BASICALLY THE SAME THING, TWO Inputs and ONE Output Check easy simple things first like continuity and resistance and the cords conductors and plugs and receptacles and insure there’s good power at the pedestal LET ME KNOW and post back any questions. It would be so easy if all you had was a bad cord !!!!!!!!!!! lol John T

Good evening Jes, I will address your issues one at a time, hang on here goes POST 1 Yet, for a mysterious reason, after the installation, I am not getting power to my transfer switch and power panel. It was working fine before the old power cord plug overheated. Response: You FIRST have to have “adequate proper power” at least getting TO the Transfer Switch and then ifffffffffff its working properly it passes through the OUTPUT to the main AC distribution panel. So when plugged to shore power, (A) WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE ON THE TRANSFER SWITCH INPUT ??????????????? (B) WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE ON THE TRANSFER SWITCH OUTPUT TO THE PANEL ?? (C) WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE AT THE PANEL ITSELF ????? Perhaps when the cord overheated the problem is as simple as one of its conductors was damaged !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CHECK THAT FIRST (continuity and resistance) to save all that below POST 2 Yet, there is no power through the transfer switch to the 120-volt power panel. I have wired and re-wired several times to check myself. Response: If there’s no power THROUGH but there is “adequate proper power” at the switches INPUT, the switch isn’t functioning properly orrrrrrrrrrrr theres a bad/resistive/loose connection POST 3 I bypassed the old in-floor wiring with a temporary connection from the power pedestal/SmartPlug directly to the transfer switch. When testing, the power is at the connection point in the transfer switch but not through to the 120-volt power panel. Response: Iffffffffffff that were truly the case ???? and there is indeed “adequate proper power” at the Transfer Switch I NPUT (is there ???) but NOT at the OUTPUT to the Panel AGAIN THAT WOULD BE THE SWITCH ISNT TRANSFERRING THE POWER OR A BAD CONNECTION POST 4 Then I connected the main power cable from my 3000W inverter in my solar system to the exact same main power line connection in the transfer switch. Everything works perfectly on inverter power. Response: If you have ”adequate proper power” at the same INPUT side of the transfer switch and now all works THAT SAYS THE TRANSFER SWITCH IS WORKING OKAY POST 5 Several times, I have disconnected the inverter power line and connected/tested the power pedestal temporary wire. No go Response: That says the switch is working so when connected to shore power THEREIN LIES THE PROBLEM, shore power,,,,,,,,,, or pedestal,,,,,,,,,,, or the overheated cord,,,,,,,,,,,,or a bad connection.. (Note: The good news is I've been running off my recently upgraded solar system for a week while dealing with this problem. The solar system is working beyond my expectations in Florida where there is plenty of sunshine right now.) I would like to get the shore power working again, however. ANALYSIS Even with good plugs and receptacles is sounds like when connected to shore power YOU ARE NOT GETTING “ADEQUATE PROPER POWER” TO THE TRANSFER SWITCHES INPUT. This could be caused by 1) A break or bad/loose/resistive conductor within the power cord, you have to ohm all conductors to look for a problem MAYBE A WIRE IS BROKEN OR RESISTIVE !!!!!!!!!!! 2) A bad or loose or resistive connection in any of the plugs or receptacles 3) If allllllllllll the connections and alllllllllll the plugs and receptacles and terminals are proper THE PROBLEM MUST BE IN THE CORD OR CONDUCTORS Maybe when it overheated !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOTICE 1) If theres a bad loose resistive connection or a conductor at NO LOAD theres no V = I x R Voltage Drop IE just because all voltages test okay at no or low load DOES NOT MEAN THERES STIL NOT A PROBLEM in a connection or a conductor or elsewhere YOU HAVE TO TEST FOR VOLTAGE UNDER A LOAD when any bad/loose/resistive cord or connection drops the voltage. If allllllll works well with the Inverter feeding the transfer switch but NOT when connected to shore power, the switch must be okay and the problem is in the cord or plugs or connections FROM the Pedestal TO the transfer switch. If you rig a known good cord and connection FROM the pedestal TO the switch and all works YOU HAVE ISOLATED THE PROBLEM. NOTICE 2) If the pedestal has a loose/resistive connection you could still see good voltage there but NOT “adequate proper power” under load MAYBE THE PROBLEM IS AT THE PEDESTAL TO BEGIN WITH ??? and your cord and plugs and receptacles are okay hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm DISCLAIMER Im NOT any solar expert but an Electrical Engineer (late practice was AC Power Distribution) of over 50 years and I would begin with checking the integrity (continuity plus resistance) of all cords and conductors,,,,,,,,,all plugs and receptacles,,,,,,,,,,,then voltages UNDER LOAD in which case a bad/loose/resistive connection causes a V = I x R Voltage Drop. If all those new plugs are good and proper and it works with Inverter feeding the transfer (AT SAME POINT AS SHORE POWER) Id suspect a cord or conductor as the problem WHEN IT OVERHEATED ???? NOTICE 3 ) Im going by you’re hooking the Inverter AT SAME PLACE AS SHORE POWER CORD such that the transfer switch itself is okay HOWEVER I don’t know your transfer arrangement or scheme and if its different let me know Bad Pedestal,,,,,,,,,,,,Bad cord/conductors,,,,,,,,,Bad/loose/resistive connection are my guesses get your ohm and volt meter and trace it all out AND LET US KNOW. I have seen a ton of bad resistive pedestal receptacles CHECK THAT OUT UNDER LOAD to see voltage !!!!!!!!!!! The Transfer switch could still be problematic ???????? but if it works when the Inverter feeds the same exact place as shore power DOES IT ??? ARE YOU HOOKED TO THE SAME PLACE ??? but NOT hooked to pedestal power that says the switch is okay……… Hope this helps, let us know I bet its simple like a bad wire or cord or connection or theres a problem in the pedestal ??????? John T To long retired EE and rusty so no warranty

Dennis the alarm notification I referred to (which I have set if batteries ever became 80% discharged which they never have likely/hopefully never will) IS ON MY SHUNT BASED BATTERY MONITOR.... John T

Dennis my BMS will shut down BEFORE any complete full dead discharge but I forget the exact voltage or SOC. I would venture that's (along with over voltage or cold temps etc) one of the important features of any quality BMS but I have no idea of your system. Similar to Randy Ive read some brands ???? if discharged too low require a jump/boost at a certain level prior to activation of recharge. FWIW this IS ONLY ME, even if you can theoretically discharge Lithium to 90% or even more (BMS and charger settings can come into play) I have an alarm set so Im notified if mine ever reached 20% at which time even if BMS or charger doesn't, IM GOING TO ACTIVATE SOME SORT OF CHARGING (Solar or DC to DC or Converter/Charger) because I choose NOT to discharge mine over 80%........That being said with my Solar and Converter/Charger and my overnight use I have never discharged anywhere near that low yayyyyyyyyyyyyy Best wishes These are ONLY my preferences, experiences and choices, see what the experts have to say John T

Dennis when I received my LiFePo4's after a long shipment they measured 13.1 each (pretty well stay over 13 in my RV when not under charge) were labeled at 12.8 and 14.6 charging volts, yet even when partial discharged or under a heavy load, voltage doesn't drop below 12.8....... Different batteries under different loads and different states of charge may well differ from mine, that's ONLY MY experience with MY batteries Instead of only voltage I rely on my shunt based battery monitor when it comes to their State of Charge. Im not an expert those are ONLY my findings, see what others have experienced with THEIR batteries under THEIR loads and THEIR States of Charge................ Jack, I would contact BOTH your battery manufacturer for their charging recommendations and profile and then Magnun to see if your particular model can be programmed or adjusted accordingly I HAVE NO IDEA MAYBE SOMEONE WHO OWNS THE SAME MODEL CAN PROVIDE THE ANSWER ????????? While some modern so called Smart 3 Stage Chargers can still provide a "certain degree" of charging for LiFePo4's, given the cost of the batteries I prefer to use a charger suited specifically for my Lithium batteries BUT THATS JUST ME even if something less can still "work" and provide some degree of charge albeit less than ideal or as recommended by the manufacturer... John T

You ask "Anyone had problems using bus bars in their RV?" NO, However I did NOT use them to direct tie/couple multiple batteries together but cables instead. Jack good question FWIW here's my take and experience. I have used quality Buss Bars (check out Blue Sea Marine) in RV applications and NEVER experienced any problems, HOWEVER other suggestions that may have contributed to my success with regards to flexibility, vibration and temp changes are as follows: POST EDIT: I have never used a solid rigid tie bar from one battery to another (IFFFF that's what you're talking about???) but used cables to allow for flexibility and vibration per the below...However that's just me and how Ive done it, others may do differently. I did NOT have my batteries firmly and solidly joined and bonded together perfectly rigid which is why I preferred flexible cable connections to allow for expansion, slight separation differences, temp and vibration.... I ) I use fine stranded copper Welding Cables as they have good flexibility and vibration characteristics plus good insulation. They are NOT cheap but the ONLY way to go in my opinion !!!! 2) To the extent possible I run a flex loop (and adequate slack) prior to buss bar connections to allow for vibration and temperature changes. 3) I like to have my connections all 90 degrees out of the Buss Bar so the protective covers fit in place. 4) If there's adequate stud length after proper tightening I add one extra locking nut on the end of each stud. 5) If Im using the Buss for multiple connections such as say the Inverter,,,Charger,,,RV DC loads,,,,,Solar Charge Controller etc etc I place the highest load (Inverter??) right next to the main battery input connection with smaller current devices further away NOTE: Im talking about using Buss Bars for the connections to multiple devices such as Inverters, Chargers, DC etc. For making parallel connections of multiple batteries I used CABLES ONLY again fine stranded copper welding cables. NOTE: To the extent possible and if reasonably feasible when using multiple batteries I would prefer if EACH battery received the exact same charging and supplies the exact same current to loads. With only two its not so hard and critical but with three or four or more it can be different........SURE a simple ladder connection works fine, myself and countless others have done it like forever lol with NO PROBLEM......See what Smart Gauge has tested and shown regarding the differences in multiple connections NO WARRANTY that's NOT my testing Im ONLY offering it, do as you please. http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html Let us know what you come up with, best wishes John T NOT an expert this is ONLY how I prefer or have done in the past and my experiences using multiple batteries, see what the experts and manufacturers have to say !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jack, yours is similar to my 400+ AH of LiFePo and 1080 Watts of Flat rooftop solar which well satisfies all the electric energy requirements (I run all except AC) in my smaller Class C. Mine charge fine driving down the road, subject of course to sunlight. In the event you do a lot of night driving and/or its cloudy n rainy days on end, you might consider adding a DC to DC charger suitable for Lithium charging. The things I like best about my Lithiums are how they don't experience excess voltage sag even when my Inverter may be approaching 200 amps of battery current and how they recharge so much faster, let alone the reduced weight. Congratulations you made some good choices John T

Absent all the specs and data, I can't sitting here provide any perfect answer for ALL brands, I can ONLY say the brands I'm familiar with DO NOT recommend (and BMS even prevents) charging in cold temperatures. BOTTOM LINE charge at cold temps at YOUR own risk, but FWIW I'm not doing it myself just to be on the safe side To each their own methods and risks John T NOT a Solar system expert so listen to them PLUS AND ESPECIALLY the battery manufacturers

Good choice, Id say with absolutely NO loads like heaters etc., and no unattended solar or other means to accidentally charge if it's too cold, and a good quality BMS there shouldn't any problems. The worst might be if they ever discharged so low the BMS cut them off (which I doubt would even happen) and/or they (subject to design and BMS) need to be excited recharged but there should be NO damage Another good choice in my opinion Over 50 years of RV I started with RV/Marine,,,,,,then FLA 6 Volt Golf Cart batteries,,,,,,,then AGM,,,,,,,Now LiFePo4 and IM NEVER LOOKING BACK However in a few years they may be outdated lol John T

Indeed if the batteries are used to power up resistive heaters (internal or external pads etc) they will finally run out of energy and the time required depends on 1) How much energy is stored 2 ) The temperature 3) The heaters load.......... How well active solar might keep up with the heater demands depends on how many solar watts, the intensity and angle of the sun and how many available sunlight hours and other factors etc. etc. The decision to let solar charging system run unsupervised IS UP TO YOU. I wouldn't be a huge fan of such for extended periods even though sure it can work I believe ??? the self discharge rate of Lithium is less then FLA ??? so if they are fully charged when you put her to rest AND THERE ARE NO LOADS APPLIED (like heaters) and they cant be charged when its cold, and they have a good BMS HECK YOU MAY GET BY FINE its just impossible to say with so many unknowns. If there's no chance of and you dont intend to try and charge when cold or let solar run unsupervised, YOU DONT NEED BATTERY HEATERS RIGHT ???? All being said if they are full charged with NO LOADS and a good BMS so they cant be charged when cold, even without solar left running, I wouldnt be too afraid to give it a go for a few months BUT THATS UP TO YOU Wise choice to use matched batteries Again Im NOT any expert so see what they have to say John T

Jack, great question, FWIW here's my answer: "Generally" speaking YES you can add batteries in parallel of the same type/voltage/chemistry without degrading the bank. In parallel of same voltage batteries (voltage will be made/balanced the same) the Amps and Amp Hours is additive HOWEVER Its my advice and preference they be the SAME brand type chemistry voltage and even near age. I have seen different brands with different charging parameters, different max charge, and different max load ratings PLUS perhaps different BMS control and safety parameters. If I had say Amazon or SOK or Battleborns and wanted to add another battery I WOULD ADD AN IDENTICAL UNIT EVEN THOUGH SURE IT CAN STILL WORK EVEN IF NOT IDEAL When connecting multiple batteries I advise and prefer that EACH receives the same charging current/voltage and delivers the same load current. Check out http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html NOTE these are NOT my research or words no warranty do as you please Its my opinion BB has the best marketing advertising and PR and I believe they are good quality HOWEVER there are more and more players coming online and some can use the same brand of cells SO DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH and check out DIY Solar on You Tube with Will Prowse. Its critical they have a good quality BMS with all the necessary protections John T NOT a solar expert so see what they have to say

Jack FWIW I would NEVER rely solely on any solar charge controller or Converter/Charger settings or claims to NOT charge below freezing temperatures but further rely on a quality tested and approved BMS to do so. A person could relatively easy and inexpensive as a backup wire his Converter/Charger using a thermostat so its inoperative below freezing, but I would still want a BMS that does the same for protection just in case Its NOT using them at low temps is harmful, but just DONT CHARGE THEM (either via BMS or Thermostats or supplemental heaters or controller/charger controls) I still like a good BMS even with other protection methods...but thats just me Your four 6 volt FLA's probably have a combined energy storage rating of around 400 Amp Hours of which 50% or 200 is useable HOWEVER if you install four 100 AH Lithiums in parallel, thats 400 AH of which at least (subject to BMS and personal preference, settings and choices) around 80% or 90% or more (320/360 AH) is available PLUS they charge faster and dont experience so much voltage sag/drop under load For long term unsupervised storage just make sure THEY WILL NOT RECEIVE ANY CHARGING (Solar or Converter/Charger) below freezing temps. Plus SUBJECT TO BATTERIES AND BMS if they discharge fully they may need to be excited prior to accepting charge Make sure BOTH your solar charge controller and Converter/Charger are suitable for charging Lithium While IMHO Battleborn have the best marketing and advertising and are great quality, there are several players out there now plus more coming onboard SO SHOP AND READ REVIEWS AND CHECK OUT DIY SOALR WITH WILL PROWSE. After a ton of research I went with a different brand (NOT BB) and am 100% satisfied just make sure the BMS has all the needed features and protections. Some brands now have internal heaters to insure they aren't charged below freezing, thats yet one other consideration and means of protection John T NOT any solar expert so see what they have to say

In order to power a 120 VAC Compressor AC unit DIRECT from an alternator (Iffffffffff thats what one even wants to do ?? just saying) would require its voltage regulation and control circuitry to produce adequate current at a fixed 120 VAC REGARDLESS of RPM. While I'm NOT any AC expert, as an electrical engineer and while NOT saying it can't be done, I'M NOT A HUGE FAN OF SUCH....Sure engine driven Inverter Generators use rotational RPM to produce a steady 120 VAC at low or high RPM, but an engine belt driven alternator IS NOT AN INVERTER GENERATOR !!!!!!! It would take a good sized alternator to supply enough energy REGARDLESS of RPM to supply X watts. Still 280 Amps at 14 volts does = 3900 Watts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Iffffffffff thats continuous even at low RPM ?????? My non expert preference would be to use a battery bank (I dont see your 200 Amp Hour AGM's as adequate) to run a PSW Inverter and let an engine powered alternator supply charge to the batteries... Still, of course, it would have to be rated to supply enough energy to maintain the batteries which is similar to my concern immediately above. However, if the alternator can deliver 280 amps at 14 volts (at low RPM??) that's 3900 Watts NOTE make sure any engine driven alternator used to charge house batteries CAN SUPPLY THE CORRECT CHARGING VOLTGE AND PARAMETERS SUITABLE FOR YOUR CHOSEN BATTERY CHEMISTRY They do make DC to DC Converter/Chargers that take raw battery and alternator engine energy and in turn supply well regulated proper charging for AGM or Lithium house batteries. Again as a non expert I DO NOT like the idea of powering an Inverter DIRECT using an Alternator, but instead the steady DC power a battery bank can supply. Absent any specs I still doubt it would even work very well since the alternators output may be un filtered pulsing/rippling DC versus pure battery DC ??? Ask Vicron, but as a non expert I just dont see that working, I doubt it was designed to work powered by a rippling pulsing alternator waveform output especially regardless of RPM ???? A big enough Amp Hour battery bank (preferably Lithium and more then 200 AH AGM) ,,,,,,,,,,A big enough Inverter (say 3 KW),,,,,,,,,,A big enough Alternator to maintain the batteries SOC versus the Inverters AC draw regardless of RPM ,,,,,,,,,,could to the trick...... I prefer to wire the 280 amp alternator (IF adequate for proper charging voltages and parameters suitable for your house battery chemistry ??) to charge your house batteries and let your 3KW Inverter power the AC BUT THATS JUST ME NO WARRANTY, SEE WHAT THE EXPERTS HAVE TO SAY LISTEN TO THEM VERSUS ME John T

Unlike Chad, I have NOT installed one so can only speak from related experience, so FWIW here are my inputs. I have seen and used sub panels and transfer switch arrangements for selective and/or limited Inverter versus shore power use and I have seen and used simple Inverter feeds by placing inverter fed receptacles in certain critical locations where the load is simply unplugged (from utility) and re plugged to Inverter fed receptacles (no Transfer no Sub panels) that's so easy cheap and simple. HOWEVER I agree with Chad if you can get by with NO transfer switching and NO sub panels NOW THATS THE WAY TO GO......and if I were to install one that would be my choice.. In a perfect world my preference would be if a 50 Amp Inverter produced the same true 120/240 Volt Single Phase Three Wire service as the utility versus acting as a dog bone L1 L2 combiner, but hey as long as it works and fills your energy needs NO PROBLEM and it's widely in use just fine ?? Then there's the question if a 240 volt dryer or other appliance (even if not typical) is used ?? Thanks Chad, your expertise and experience is a Godsend to this Forum, I appreciate and learn from it yayyyyyyyyy John T NOT any solar expert but never too old to learn I hope

AMEN Vern, I've seen what happens if over tightened lol Darn Thermocouples grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr and those millivots are smallllllllll and a cheap meter may not help much !!! John T

On many I've repaired the fix/replacement is as I said above and Kirks picture shows, you buy the entire Thermocouple and Pilot ASSEMBLY. I have seen replacement Thermocouples ONLY however. If that's your problem versus the other possibilities I noted above, you have to see what's available for your unit. The flame has to be nice n blue and directed right at the tc tip. Be careful not to kink or mash either of those fragile lines. John T