spindrift

These folks do excellent work. The added benefit is being able to spend time in Bandera. https://classarvrepairs.com/ My apologies...I don't read too good...

I can validate your concern. That guy needs to be watched like a hawk on a diet.

Not exactly. The pump requires you to specify reefer or tractor fuel when selecting fuel. The reefer fuel taxes are refunded to the company/owner operator so it's basically untaxed. However, the fuel comes out of the same hose/tank and is not dyed. The same is true for any fuel used for your APU.

No, the fuel tank on a reefer trailer is on the trailer itself. The right side, tractor tank is simply an additional tank that normally feeds the primary (left side) fuel tank.

There's no place like this place for that.

Diesel heat as a standalone; replacing both propane AND the CheapHeat system? In the expense column, it may be a wash.

I don't get it. That system is fairly idiot proof. On the other hand...

Yessir, that's the one, with a somewhat minor difference. You can purchase a CheapHeat system as an adjunct to, or as a complete replacement for, a propane furnace. I'm thinking if the mini-split is as good as advertised, and we're still in design, why not totally replace the propane with electric only CheapHeat I should add that eventually, we'll be fulltimers in this RV.

While not a subject specific to HDTs, I do respect the collective wisdom here so I pose the following idea. My wife and I are in the process of designing an RV where the primary heating and cooling will be accomplished through the use of a mini-split system. The LG system requires 240V service. The RV will have an onboard diesel generator capable of supplying 240V in a pinch. I've had conversations with folks who report efficient heating using only the heat pump in the mini-split, even when temps dip into the high teens. My ultimate goal is to minimize the use of propane in the RV and increase overall heating efficiency and flexibility. My thought is to supplement the heat pump with a stand-alone CheapHeat system. Since this system doesn't require any gas hook-up, it can be installed virtually anywhere in the RV where there is available space, thereby providing maximum flexibility for the floor plan. It's certainly much quieter than a propane furnace as well. I have thought about diesel heat (Espar) since the RV will have a diesel tank but I'm no longer pursuing that idea because of cost (multiple heaters required for the length of the RV) Any discussion of propane vs. electricity seems to always come down to a cost comparison. Unless there's a HUGE reason to incorporate cost analysis, I'm going to let that issue slide for the moment. Additionally, I don't envision that we will be parked in any one spot long enough to be concerned about a metered, 50A service. We will have some solar. So there it is. How much would I gain by having propane?

Back atcha', Rick!

Link to the article, please. FYI, the "coach" is 40'.

Just to be clear, I'm looking for experiences related to coach installations, not the truck. Thank you.

Try to use it before the purchase. Some of those cheapies will give you a cloudy pic.

These units don't seem to be used in larger fifth wheels. Seems to me that they would be a good choice if you already have a fuel tank. In addition, maybe a smaller footprint? Certainly less moisture in the living space and a more efficient fuel type as well.

I understand sizing the unit for your area is critical. Better to size smaller and run on high to keep the heater running properly.

Is anyone using either of these two manufacturers to heat their coach using diesel fuel? What has been your experience?

This may be obvious, but don't forget about the For Sale section in this Forum.

GLWS

For you folks who performed all of the maintenence on your truck and RV before going full-time, have you been able to be that same do-it-yourselfer while full-time? Yesterday, I was doing the critical suspension and driveline greasing that's called for on my Ram 5500. I'm the only one that has ever done it because I then know it has been done properly. As you know, this kind of work takes certain tools. Now that we're planning to go full-time, I ask myself how it's going to get done.

What position is your leveling valve in?

If you don't know what's in the coolant system, your best bet is to drain and fill with new coolant. However, if it's red it's a darn good bet that it's extended life and compliant. Regardless, this is what you want... Fleetguard@ CC36077 ES Extended Life

Fleetguard and you're good to go.

Almost looks as if the bottom of the box filled with water.

I would also add that if you don't have the experience of troubleshooting and actually wrenching on an ISX, or any deleted engine for that matter, IMHO it's best to move on. If you run into mechanical problems, I'm not aware of any Mother Cummins shop that will touch it with a ten foot pole. Even independent shops are beginning to shy away from this work if only because of the very remote possibility that the shop will get dragged into a beef with either the EPA, or a state's environmental protection agency, or both. And don't even think about going to the Rawze website for info on your deleted ISX. You'll be eaten alive

Glad to know 'ya.