Scrap

I've become addicted to my metric tape....anything else and I screw it up. I owe my tech $100 for every hole he has to drill that could've been done factory. 😟 I got him down to $50 if I get it on the wrong side! 🤣

Are they DEF coolant lines?

The factory tool. Pulls them tight and cuts them flush. MK9 EVO

Nice! Ah, it's an old KW......It allows you to close your doors all the way the first time!

Get a 12V sealed relay or similar: https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Waterproof-Harness/dp/B01N66W2XF/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=12v+sealed+bosch+relay&qid=1558197179&s=gateway&sr=8-5 85: To Ground 86: To Generator IGN 87a: None 87: To ACR Isolation #1 30: To truck IGN If the generator has more on time than the truck then you'll want to swap 86 and 30. If you do that, however, you'll hear the relay click every time you key on the truck. That may get annoying after a couple years.

I think the simplest way is to just manually turn your ACR rocker switch to off when running truck and generator at the same time. That'll uncombine the batteries and the truck charges/maintains its side and the house charges/maintains its side. But you can't forget. To do it automatically you'd need to make a relay setup that takes IGN from the truck, IGN from the generator, then when they both have 12V it sends that signal to the Isolation #1 input of the ACR so it uncombines the batteries when both of them are turned on. It'll have to be a relay system so it doesn't backfeed the two IGN circuits. How to wire that I'd have to think about it for a bit....

Took me some head scratching and I still had my fingers crossed behind my back on the PN for Glenn's ABS module. It was kind of a simple system though. The ACC/ACB/Fusion on this one is a whole different ball game. Take a truck that automatically safety brakes and then remove two brakes and 4000 lbs off of it, yea that's a bit of liability to guess on what will work. Needs track time.

Engine oil is legit for Sheppard gears. Dex II or III for TRW/Ross gears. Watch your max temps if using engine oil. Maybe put one of those sticky temp thermometers on the reservoir and check it out for awhile before swapping over. Don't dry steer it with 10-40 either, but a truck shouldn't be dry steered anyways.

Dropping pressure and then holding on the F tank sounds like the pressure protected check valve doing its job. With it going down first without the R leaking down then it's prolly something forward of the F tank. A supply tank leak, an air dryer problem (bad regen valve?), or governor problem? How to check the PCCV: https://www.tectran.com/images/pdf/TB_AD21.pdf What to check on the dryer: https://wheelco.com/assets/uploads/Meritor-WABCO-SS1200-SS1800-Air-Dryers-TP97101.pdf This just start happening or has it been at it for awhile?

I think that is their hydrogen tank cabinet. I don't know what the little vent pipe does between the cab and cabinet does though. Maybe a talking tube for the engineer in the back Yea Not Even, is isn't very often you find that location on YouTube! Times are a changin.......

two month later they've left the nest...... Tesla truck givin it: ZECT shiftin gears (79K) ZECT jake brake'n.

Some e-TV watching for y'all.... ZECT: Toyota Hydrogen: (had nothing to do w/ KW except the glider) Autonomous: (not really alternative energy, but was a suggested vid that was interesting.)

Ya, that is kind of the unspoken part of the "electric highway". Sure it puts you in full electric mode right in the heart of the Port of LA where all the trucks queue, but it also puts a 20 mile buffer (if they get it built that far) on your route. Your range can vary by 18 miles (ambient is the fuel cell killer) and if you can get to the power lines you put your catenary up and it gets you the buffer you need to get the electric charged while still moving along the queue. Everybody truck-wise knows that the future of regional trucks is electric. The near term trucks will need to be range extended. As an OEM you don't know what the fuel du jour is going to be so you make it agnostic. Give me three orange wires and I'll make your truck move. It is all about brackets and software. The grant is both Hydrogen and CNG, just the Hydrogen came first. The CNG is easy, build a glider with a Near-Zero CNG engine, bolt on a SAE2 generator, flash some software, then go about the electric business. (as-if....lol) This stuff has come a long way though. The grants for the truck two years ago was just to build the truck, drive it around some, tow it home from failed plans a good 25 times, then throw it all away. This one steps it up a bit to build it, run it for a year, then junk it. Lots has been tooled into actual truck parts in the last two years and they go together a whole heck of a lot easier. The parts guys at my Chevy and Toyota dealers here are still trying to figure me out when I waltzed in to get 36 gallons of Volt inverter coolant and 12 gallons of Murai fuel cell stack coolant. But they figured it out and a week later they had it all in and ready to go. Couldn't have done that two years ago. But trust me, autoshifting an electric motor still ain't for the faint of heart - one missed keystroke and 30HP, 100 RPM, and 1400 torque will pretzel the truck in ways you don't want to see..... The e-axles time will come, but adding 200lbs of unsprung weight takes years of study. Or static mounting the assy and using CV joints on a truck takes study too. If you have a new truck clean sheet then it is all part of your program, but for the rest of us it all will just have to come in time. It'll have to happen sometime, however, as regional LTL is an important part of electric trucks but right now you can't make a driveshaft short enough and have to mount a brokeback shortie that keeps your wheelbase relatively long. Hydrogen trucks use carbon fiber tanks in a cabinet that is real similar to a CNG cabinet. It fills on H70 but is about 10 times the 5kg of your Murai's and Traverses. So far I've only filled with a test trailer that uses all of the industrial stuff with the filler with all the knobs and levers like CNG. Supposedly the truck side works with the infared comms and plastic filler handle at the consumer hydrogen stations but I don't know yet. I have two nights at Harris Ranch with it in February to find out. Will be interesting to see how the water exhaust does in a drier climate too. Right now I swear I suck enough water out of the air to make it stop raining in Seattle! Still, no matter who you are, you gotta take a ride in 80,000 lbs of electric truck going 60 mph........ It is something else!

Go to the CES show in a couple weeks and you can see our hydrogen electric truck up close and personal. Weighed 23K when it hit the road last week.

Except for one doubled terminal, they are both one for one......Just curious what these do for you guys? Or is the doubled terminal the thing that they do?

0% on the Deere R's this month! I was down looking at trading my 4200 last week for something with a DPF, but I'll probably never actually go through with it. I use it all the time but it is only a short few hours in the summer where it is mowing or tilling something hard for more than an hour straight. So all the smoke from short and shuttle work is starting to get real annoying. But then again, that is probably the worst condition to put a DPF tractor in as well. It seems like I use it mostly as a big wheelbarrow but that's probably because moving rocks, digging post holes, tilling stuff, etc, etc is such a non-event that I don't even remember doing it much of the time. I hate my brush hog and if I'm using it that means I way missed all my spring work. I tried a finish mower and hated that too. I lay out my mowing like I'm driving combine and 3pt mowers rigid in the back just worked backwards from what I want. I ended up getting a whole separate Deere front mount mower but looked real close at adding a mid-mower to the 4200. Some of the new smaller Deere's can't add a mid PTO so be careful of that if you are thinking a mid mower. I keep it in a container so I need to fold the ROPS every time it goes in. Some of the bigger Deere's don't have a folding ROPS so be careful of that too. Also if you can credit the box blade toward a Harley rake (or whatever Frontier calls it) you'd be way ahead - especially in the sand down there. They clean up a mean gravel road and work pretty darn good to get anything you've dug up ready for grass as well. County doesn't allow any bare soil up here where I'm at so everything you do needs to end up grass-ready so it is pretty useful up here. Anyways, my 4200 has been flawless for the 15 years I've had it, but that's not to say there are plenty of things I should be fixing on it. If I were to trade it for something it'd probably end up in the 30hp range as I think it would be a better size. I would definitely not go any smaller on it though. It has been pretty friggen handy and I can't imagine being without it. That's on 7 acres in the mud up here, but I swear I'm over at all of the neighbors places more often than mine.

Its one of those things you just have to dig in. It is super easy. Dig about a foot of stuff out of its way, undo the firewall bolts, pull out some to undo connectors, and the whole thing slides back and out. Door motors, fan, filter, and coils are pretty self explanatory when it is opened up. If you redid your AC lines with OEM length then the whole thing should flop down to a table right next to the front wheel without evacuating. Or you can also overhaul it up on top of the engine. Its worth trying before suffering through a month with it not working.

Need to look this over for plans as well. http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcSe...cName=CT_216450