Scrap

Factory grease is Nyogel 760G with UV trace added, Rick. Was 759G prior to 05 or 06, somewhere in there.

Never done a Volvo, but make sure it finishes its purge cycle, pinch off the coolant lines, unplug connector, remove hose, remove three bolts, and it comes off. Its pretty straight forward, but if it is one of the old ones with the plastic nipple be real careful with it. Breathe on it wrong and the nipple will break off inside the DEF hose, ruining your afternoon. Might be a good time to do the DEF filter too?

Soooo, don't mean to derail the thread, but I gotta know how they get the 2 post to stay upright on the pavers? There must be some fancy concrete work hidden under there? Do Smart's always get loaded on the asymmetrics backwards? Cuz the engine is in the rear? I've never really been around one. Gotta be real nice to be able to open the doors all the way while on the lift though!

Yes it is. For sure that is the plug to use. It is the HD-OBD that I don't think you are supposed to use for safety/regulation stuff.

I'm not sure you are supposed to hook ELD's and brakes to the Volvo HD-OBD port? It is missing data and doesn't lock, so I think Volvo wants you to go into the fuse panel and grab power from the fuses and data from the terminating resistor connection. Use a harness like this, then Y off of that. https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-Harness-9-Pin-Deutsch-J1939/dp/B07T2FD6DS/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=MasterELD&qid=1581408130&sr=8-11 Yes, for other trucks be real careful to use the right color harness for the right color plug, and that your splitter is actually a splitter and not a crossover cable. On the GREEN plug your vehicle 1939 is on pins F-G and not C-D like it had been for 20 years with black. C-D is 500K engine diagnostic. If you somehow end up with a 500K device on your 250K vehicle can it'll error out the can and if you have an automatic it'll get the dinging F error and shift itself to neutral until you unplug the thing, no matter where you happen to be. It friggen sucks. This is a 2016-2019 non-Volvo motor thing (I think that is how you get your HD-OBD plug?) and can get mighty confusing amongst all the truck brands. EPA forced the 500K for their use and everyone read the rule differently... 2019+ has a new "RP1226" connector that is standardized so it is the same for everybody. They don't want you using the diagnostic connector for anything but diagnosing anymore. There's 9-pin adapters out there that will hook to it.

The sight glasses if it helps (no idea if they work on Volvo) #10 draw https://www.apexinds.com/tools/M50043.html #8 Return https://www.apexinds.com/tools/M50042.html Compucheck fitting hooker upper if Volvo puts them in https://www.apexinds.com/tools/ATCL-TU-32-25.html Mityvac to suck from the Compucheck https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-6830-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B000JFN9WC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=6830&qid=1580878400&s=industrial&sr=1-1

Going to put it back together with a T660 hood? 😉 That composite front "leaf" spring you have though - go over every inch of it with a real bright flashlight and make sure nothing smacked it hard during the event. They don't do well with dents and notches in them.

I use a SmartDry, but it is only for the dryer and not the washer. Works though. Been thinking about putting a Shelly 1 on the washer but there isn't really a timer terminal or wire that switches when it shuts off on its own. I might put it on the blue motor-hi wire and it'll send a notification on spin cycle. That'll probably be close enough.

They're all dead nowadays though. All tractors from 2018 on are required to have stability control. Problem is that the big 430" wheelbase ones can't fit in the 14ft lane during the J-hook test and can't certify the stability control. So you can't do them as a tractor anymore, which was a major hit. Built the hell out of them in late 2017 though. There were 400"+ wheelbase trucks all over the place. It was a weird time.

The bottom two gold banded are the pressure sensors. The top two are switches for something. That top one with the big sealed connector on it is a good switch. Would be a good one for brake controllers.

Vote for Megafuse or 187 breaker. Save the T for the inverters and electronics.

So what are we looking at in the Volvo pic above? Brake light switch on the top? Park brake switch on the left? Primary and secondary transducers down below? They case ground these things with that ring terminal above? Or is that something else?

Good deal Randy! You can take the faceplate off and those cords go to a terminal. So you can take the whole cable off and go direct to terminal using the same strain reliefs. I think I finally figured out the gotcha on all the Ebay Cooper's. They changed to inverters with an M in the part number sometime in 2018. I'm not sure what's different but M inverters need M controllers or they don't work. They don't make the non-M controllers anymore so you are kind of stuck if you get one of the inverters only that doesn't have the controller included. The M's also use a different pinout on the controller cable so you can't replace a Xantrex and use the same pre-routed controller cable that's already run through your cabinets. You have to re-crimp it or run the new cable. I swear they made that change about as frustrating as they could, but yours came with controller so life should be good.

https://www.movinout.com/magazine/ddec-and-caterpillar-internal-ecm-batteries

Stinkin automatics! OK, we'll see what we can figure out on it.

Maxwell does make the 2 post GSS modules for industrial generators and stuff. These don't have the internal 12V charger so you don't need the battery with it if you don't want to go that way. The one they showed me was hooked to a 120V LaMarche, but I'm sure a 48V input one could be figured out. The caps bleed their power over a day so the charger is going to be a constant suck on the 48V battery, so a guy would probably have to manually manage that.

It is telling you that it wants some stainless coolant tubes! 😉 https://bhtubes.com/coolant-tubes#cat=coolant-tube&engine=c15acert3406e&manufacturer=peterbilt&model=379-378-357-377

I had to put 8 Odyssey 2150's in a truck today, friggen heavy beasts. The aux bank was at 1.8V, I should take better care of my trucks.😞 I used to complain about the good ol square KW battery holddown cuz I could spark it with the best of em, but now they got Peterbiltized with the upside down hooks that can't old themselves in place. Then they get the fairing rubber that goes 1" off the ground right in front of them. Grrr. I threw a little fit and had my hand on the sawsall for an armhole, but decided to be good and take the rubber off. While the cables were off I changed the Xantrex inverter out for the Eaton charging type like the other thread, then had to put 4 closed end pacserts (rivnuts) in the floor to mount it, like another thread. I'm either living the dream or y'all jinx'd me, not sure....... 😏😏

Yea nice!

It's a gen 1. Follow page 1-4 to see what it doesn't like: https://wellertruck.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Gen-1-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf

B4 means charger, so it should be a charging type. And it even has the remote control that most don't have included (it work work without it). Should be good. If there is a gotcha I'm not seeing it. Though I am looking at it on my phone and not the big screen..... I suppose the gotcha is that it has the connectors for the outlet kit above, so you kinda have to buy that too. But that keeps the romex out of your sleeper anyways.

Found this one that I swear wasn't there yesterday....... FL extra again I'm sure....Get it! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Eaton-Model-12-110-1800-B4G-True-Sine-Wave-Inverter/174100008639?hash=item28892b4ebf:g:L3cAAOSwiS9d0zBz

The interaxle dash switch for 2000's+ trucks is fine (maybe change out the switch or it would drive me nuts). The interaxle actuator is gonna be on the opposite side of the rail from the difflock but I'm sure that can be easily overcome. The 80's and 90's trucks like the 379 of this thread have to be careful if they use the old shift bottle that you have to put the ATF into as they use too much air for the dash switch to exhaust fast enough. You have to put a QR valve in the line or it'll nick all the actuator teeth when releasing. 404's might not have used that bottle and it was just the bigger axles though, I don't remember.

I use the air air ones: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARO-AVK-AKPT30P632-8509-AVK-Riv-Nut-Pneumatic-Spin-Spin-Tool/193122878450?hash=item2cf70543f2:g:e4sAAOSwnXpdi3z~ Air setter in the left hand and a Fuel impact with some of the MAThreaded Kenworth screws in the right hand and you'll be a M6 boltin' Ninja Suite!

Ya I use the 3M Window Weld butyl tape rolls on the flange to put em in. Right or wrong I dunno, but I don't use the spacers in the box and I kinda pre-flatten the bead with an ice cube. Join the bead at the bottom and run the two side by side for a few inches - not overlapped or the window sets fat at the bottom. The caulk gun style butyl might work better for a more custom more squishy bead but I got banned from that. That goo gets everywhere forever! That's on newly painted truck in a warm shop though. Oxidized paint done outside probably needs a hair dryer and I imagine should use the black window weld primer that the urethane type uses. Don't drip or primer out too wide!