GlennWest

Actually it has a pump. I will be building the box so it is above roof line. Cassette will be 4" above roof. Calls for 3/4" clearance. Need to make it serviable up top bit haven't decided how yet. The unit will go in from the inside. Up top is the freon hookups. They will be just above roof. Works out just right there. Planning to screw plywood top on and cover with etherbond. Just remove screws to get to gas lines when needed. Got better mouse trap?

Mine is a square D box. Two 120 loads. All I need is a breaker. Actually it's already in there but not wired. And I know, 30 amp, no ac. That won't be true later though. Solar up will take care of that.

Yes, but they make filters for this.

Just go to Highseer.com.

I just cut 2 chockers in half.

The wall mount unit is just like you said. Hole for the freon lines, signal wires, drain tube. That is what I have now. I would add another to bedroom if a had a place to put one. The wall unit blows air one direction. The casette unit blows air in 4 directons. It mounts in the ceiling.Also it has a pump for the drain. One outside unit will have 2 sets of ports for freon lines and signal wires.

It runs on two 110v circuits. I have plenty of space in my box for the breaker.

I not able to address the kinetics. Beyond my education. But I also don't believe the sinerio you described will play out either. That unit weighs roughly 10#. My ceiling fan weighs close to that. My existing mini split rides on a wall which is nothing strength wise. Horizontal studs. Had to put plywood on back just to have something to screw too. Actually look for it to bounce off but it stays put. That rafter won't be weak. Maybe not as strong. Got me curious though. Might study up on kinetics this weekend. Thanks everyone. Gave me some good pointers.

Ok. We on same page now. Agree.

Stronger??? I think it will be weaker but not enough to hurt. But that box is going to be ridged. I think all will be fine. Just wanted others opinions. I haven't done a lot of wood work.

Well, the box will connect the cut rafter making it rigid again. Yes, it is weaker. The rafters on each side connect to box. So 3 rafters connected together with a box. The box needs to be built strong. Teton put some fairly strong rafters up there.

No dropped ceiling. From looking at the brochure on my Teton, they are solid board cut at an arc, flat on bottom. I will be able to attach the box to both outside rafters of the box. Had not considered plywood. Thinking about it, is better choice. Lots of campers has 24" spread on rafters. Only way to double the rafter is to tear roof up so I can. Don't want to do that if I can accomplish this without it. I can put it in two pieces. Will have a 2' opening in center of roof.

We have been streaming steady since we got ours over a month ago. No problems at all. If it throttled, not noticable streaming. Or cell phone use.

Goggle them. Instead of wall mount, ceiling mounthttps://www.highseer.com/collections/multi-zones/products/12-000btu-multi-zone-dc-inverter-multi-split-system-heat-pump-230v-22-seer-ceiling-cassette-type-indoor-section-model-cb012gmfilcfhd?variant=24482022916160

Got to looking at my Teton brochure.T Joist rafters every 16". Well my purposed Mini Split Cassette is 22.5" square. So I will have to cut thru a rafter. Any suggestions from the carpenters here. If it was steel I would know what to do. lol My thoughts are cutting a rough 2' square opening and box it in with 1X12 board. I will need to trim it down some but 1X10 will come up short. Roof is 6", unit is 10.5" tall. Do not have a unit in hand but instructions I have read it seems the unit protrudes down 1/2". So I need an 1X11" board. I can attach box to one rafter and cut thru next and attach rafter to box. Do you think 2X be better? Or you have better suggestion. Planning on screwing it all, no nails.

Op problem was slide out roof. I understand no one covers the slideouts.

We are actually cooling ours with a single 12k mini split and fan to aide in circulation. Your repair should be fine.

Of the two pickups I owned, neither would turn sharp with tailgate down. Just nature of the beast. I got tired of clearance issues and installed a hauler bed. Much to my surprise I really liked it. Even believe if I ever buy another, first mod will be the bed. It is just so much more useful. And the storage boxes big plus. But wouldn't trade my HDT for one.

Anyone have link to FB post on this. I can't find it

I would think we are full time. Have no stick or brick home. Just our Teton, truck and 2 cars. Do own property and plan on a building and concrete pad sometime but just haven't had time or desire to. Don't travel like some here, I still work full time. So stay in one spot till job ends. I am a welder and jobs are short term. So do you consider us full time?

I was traveling home from work, dark. Crossed railroad tracks, slowly. Biker pulls in front of me from nowhere. He is intoxicated, wearing black clothes. He was not on road to start with. I had no dashcam. His word against mine. He sued my insurance company. I now have a dashcam in all my vehicles.

Well, I signed us up today. We are now unlimited and 2 phones 4 gig each. Verzion prepaid. Got the cheezy jackpak. See how it works out. If not will change.

I am a fair painter but since selling everything and going full time no where or equipment to fix mine. Most places surprise me with what they want for just the hood. The darn comes off easy. Not all that tape to put on to protect the rest. Easy job.

Do you mind sharing your cost.

I agree. You stated fix spots peeling. Mine just continue peeling. Bunn repaint job.