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noteven

Dometic fridge showing E1 error code

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110ac - gas “2 way” fridge.

We had a Big Wind that caused a 5 hour power outage - fridge switched to LP as per normal. I was away from the unit when Power was restored. When I returned the fridge was off. Not long temp was not up. I restarted it and E1 code was flashing.

It is cooling  properly on AC elec. E1 code flashing and does not start burner if switched to gas.

Owner manual says E1 code is “gas system hardware” issue.

Other gas appliances functioning correctly - furnaces, hot water, stove.

I am looking for advice on some “1st things to check”. 

I’m guessing something coincidentally conked during the outage not because of it.

Thanks

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Try unplugging your refrigerator from 120VAC  for 10 minutes or longer, then plug in again. This is supposed to reset the control board.

If that doesn't solve the problem, there may be interference somewhere in the OEM 12V power source; run a separate 12V hot wire to the frig directly from the house battery and attach to the same frig connection, temporarily replacing the RV hot wire. If this solves the problem you may make a permanent wiring replacement.

Edited by Ray,IN

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It might be low gas pressure. Does the stove burner show lots of yellow or mostly blue?

All controls are 12v so you would have to remove it to power them down. 

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  I would open the back of the fridge area so you can see what is happening.

  Remove the tin shroud covering the burner area a least enough to see the igniter. Then turn the temperature as low as possible on the unit.

  Now put one finger on the gas valve to test for operation. If the gas valve is working you should feel a small movement on the valve body. At the same time watch the igniter to see if it is sparking.

  While doing the first test notice if you can smell gas. This does depend if it is calling for operation. One should have a ac amp meter on the heating wire to see if it calling for operation.

  A poor mans version could be to watch the electric meter on the Rv electrical power post. If it spins faster when 110vac is plugged in  at the fridge then it is calling for operation. If it is not then the gas test will not work.

  So if it is not calling for operation on 110 vac then go in side to the fridge. The thermistor needs warmed up to make the unit call for operation. Warm rag or fingers will work on thermistor.

 

  Now if you have valve operation and igniter operation the wind may have moved rust that has accumulated in the tube that the gas comes out of. No that may sound strange but I see that occasionally. To test for rust you really should cover the opening where the gas comes out of the line. Then take a small flexible tube and bllow through it to push the rust back out of the tube where the flame normally is. Just push air into the slots where the gas burns at.Then take a small pick or something to make sure the slots where the gas comes out for the flame . Then blow that dirt out also.

 

   If there is spark at the igniter to the burner tube and the valve is acting like it is working. Then some rust may have blown back into the oriface on the gas line. Remove and clean with air and solvent........  Absolutely do not put a fisical object into the gas oriface.

 

 When I do this I make sure to have a white paper towel under the area to see what falls out. There may be gas coming out of the oriface but not at the correct amount to provide ignition.

 

  That should get a few answers to go on.

 

   Vern

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22 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

Try unplugging your refrigerator from 120VAC  for 10 minutes or longer, then plug in again. This is supposed to reset the control board.

If that doesn't solve the problem, there may be interference somewhere in the OEM 12V power source; run a separate 12V hot wire to the frig directly from the house battery and attach to the same frig connection, temporarily replacing the RV hot wire. If this solves the problem you may make a permanent wiring replacement.

I powered off the fridge, then disconnected 110v ac and the batteries for 15 min.

Reconnected and powered on the fridge in auto mode. Fridge starts on ac an cools. E1 code flashes as before.

 

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20 hours ago, Kirk W said:

It might be low gas pressure. Does the stove burner show lots of yellow or mostly blue?

All controls are 12v so you would have to remove it to power them down. 

Gas supply pressure appears normal. Blue flame on stove, furnaces and water heater firing normally on gas.

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Thanks for the ideas so far.

We are having some brisk fall weather right now. Snow flurries, 14F, wind 15-25mph...

I don’t wanna stand outside in the shade messing with a $&%@$& absorption fridge😬...

We have a warmer spell on the way... I can check wrknrvr’s instructions..

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27 minutes ago, noteven said:

We are having some brisk fall weather right now. Snow flurries, 14F, wind 15-25mph...

Might be time to head south!

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Vern you sent those temps here now 🤣. Supposed to warm up to “normal”...

Kirk - ya it is...

I ran the diagnostics shown in the manual. All functions check ok except the LP check - returns the E1 code.  So time to check the gas system when it warms up outside.

The burner and related parts look really clean...

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On 10/29/2019 at 10:18 AM, Kirk W said:

Might be time to head south!

Kirk, I about spilled my coke, I read your reply, including the post you replied to and thought it was you saying it was snowing and 14°. If it gets that cold at Tyler It won't do me any good to head South.

noteven, that was the extent of my limited knowledge. Sounds like Kirk was right about it being the LP system.

Edited by Ray,IN

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Repair follow up:

It was mentioned before the fridge worked on ac electric mode not on propane mode and has error codes E0 and E1 flashing. 

So I applied Red Green’s “principle of leave ‘er” as I was bizzy with other stuff.

Time passed. Temp held steady, E1 code flashing, temp 34F, freezer frozen. Interior light not on when you open the door. 

Then one day I stumble out to the kitchen to rustle up a coffee and the display reads 60. This means fridge is 60F inside, not 34... it’s quit altogether during the night...

No error code flashing just steady temp display. 60F. 

After saying the appropriate RV fridge swears I ponder...

Hmmm... 

I switch “on”. Click. No error. I give it a few seconds then switch to gas mode. “Click thump” the burner lights. Leave on gas for a while. Good. Switch back and forth. Still good. Door light works.

Switch to ac and it cools to 34F from 60F in 3 or 4 hours...

It has been working properly for 4 days. 

Hope this helps 

 

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5 hours ago, noteven said:

It has been working properly for 4 days. 

Hope that continues for the future. Please do let us know what happens. 

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9 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Hope that continues for the future. Please do let us know what happens. 

Ya I will. It bugs me when folks post Heellp me! subjects and don’t take a minute to follow up to share how the issue worked out.

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Same thing happened to me.  Get ready... your gas valve solenoid is about to die!  Mine took a few months, but eventually it would not work at all.  You can check it by doing an OHM test across the 2 connectors on the solenoid.  Turn off fridge and unplug wires on solenoid before doing test.  It should read around 50 on a Dometic and around 85 on a Norcold.

Neither Dometic or Norcold will sell you just the solenoid coil.  They want to sell you the whole gas valve.  If you can find just the coil it is a simple swap.  Just remove the C Clip on the top and lift it off and replace.  The valve part hardly ever fails, it is the coil.

Dometic put the coil too close to the burner as that causes more heat which is probably what killed it.  I am trying to find a supplier for the coils as it would be a much cheaper replacement... the whole gas valves run around $200. :( 

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4 hours ago, SavnTheWales said:

Same thing happened to me.  Get ready... your gas valve solenoid is about to die!  Mine took a few months, but eventually it would not work at all.  You can check it by doing an OHM test across the 2 connectors on the solenoid.  Turn off fridge and unplug wires on solenoid before doing test.  It should read around 50 on a Dometic and around 85 on a Norcold.

Neither Dometic or Norcold will sell you just the solenoid coil. 

Welcome to the Escapee forums! Hope that you will become a regular here.

Just for those who may need a gas valve, here are a few sources that cost less than $200. The key is to know what valve you need or to find the proper part number.

Norcold...   The Norcold Guy         Bend Trailers            Camper ID

Dometic....   Boat & RV Accessories        Dyers RV Parts

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6 hours ago, SavnTheWales said:

Same thing happened to me.  Get ready... your gas valve solenoid is about to die!  Mine took a few months, but eventually it would not work at all.  You can check it by doing an OHM test across the 2 connectors on the solenoid.  Turn off fridge and unplug wires on solenoid before doing test.  It should read around 50 on a Dometic and around 85 on a Norcold.

Neither Dometic or Norcold will sell you just the solenoid coil.  They want to sell you the whole gas valve.  If you can find just the coil it is a simple swap.  Just remove the C Clip on the top and lift it off and replace.  The valve part hardly ever fails, it is the coil.

Dometic put the coil too close to the burner as that causes more heat which is probably what killed it.  I am trying to find a supplier for the coils as it would be a much cheaper replacement... the whole gas valves run around $200. :( 

Welcome - and thank you for this test info. The code reappeared as you predicted.  Because the offending fridge is in my spring summer fall base camp “winter capable” trailer a diagnosis/repair won’t happen till spring cause “we’s gone” 

But I will report. 

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Update as of 04/03/2020:

When I arrived back at summer base camp I got this trailer out of hibernation to use during my mandatory international travel return self isolation.

Fridge has been operating as before - works on AC mode, not on LP gas. Until yesterday. AC power out for a 1/2 hr. AC power restored. Freezer now not freezing, sitting 2F degrees warmer than reefer. Reefer compartment running at set temperature. This model has only “Auto” and “LP” setting - you cannot set it on AC only so it tries to switch to the faulty LP system when the AC power is interrupted.

Fortunately (?) it is 15 below zero F (-27C) outside this spring mawnin’ so my fwozen food is fine outside...

It’s supposed to warm up and snow...

I’m going to try a AC and DC disconnect reset and see what happens.

Planning to do gas system CSI when it warms up outside. 

More coffee...

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5 minutes ago, noteven said:

Fortunately (?) it is 15 below zero F (-27C) outside this spring mawnin’ so my fwozen food is fine outside...

It’s supposed to warm up and snow...

Are you serious? Where are you staying? 

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  Replace all fuses. Do not pull fuses and reinstall.

 

  Check and clean all 12vdc connections.

 

  Just by chance do you have another fridge in another rv that night have a gas valve coil that you could swop.   Does the gas try to ignite at all wen you have problems 

   Check all ground connections. I would even put a ground wire from the common battery ground to the burner area on the gas valve area. Disconnect the one wire to the gas valve while working the  burner assembly as follows.Also while your there remove the gas burner tube. Empty the rust from the tube. Clean the slots where the propane comes out for the flame.  Put a clean paper towel under the gas nozzle. Pull the gas nozzle out. Turn the nozzle over and see it anything falls out. Clean the gas nozzle. Do not use anything to poke the hole in the oriface. Just carb clean or similar  

 Is the igniter in good shape. Clean it if it looks green it may fall apart.

  Then gas pressure testing 

 

 just a thought,   Vern

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49 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Are you serious? Where are you staying? 

Kirk - eastern Alberta approx 300 miles north of The Medicine Line.

Vern - thanks I’ll try those CSI’s once the fingers don’t fweeze...

Like I said fwozen stuff is fine outside right now in the shade.

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9 hours ago, noteven said:

Update as of 04/03/2020:

When I arrived back at summer base camp I got this trailer out of hibernation to use during my mandatory international travel return self isolation.

Fridge has been operating as before - works on AC mode, not on LP gas. Until yesterday. AC power out for a 1/2 hr. AC power restored. Freezer now not freezing, sitting 2F degrees warmer than reefer. Reefer compartment running at set temperature. This model has only “Auto” and “LP” setting - you cannot set it on AC only so it tries to switch to the faulty LP system when the AC power is interrupted.

Fortunately (?) it is 15 below zero F (-27C) outside this spring mawnin’ so my fwozen food is fine outside...

It’s supposed to warm up and snow...

I’m going to try a AC and DC disconnect reset and see what happens.

Planning to do gas system CSI when it warms up outside. 

More coffee...

Absorption refrigerators do not operate well in sub-freezing temperatures. The heat sources for the boiler cannot generate enough heat to boil the liquid in the cooling unit. The usual remedy is to tape something over the lower outside vent, beginning with the bottom vent.Do not block the upper vent as burning LP produces Carbon Monoxide =C0, and it must go somewhere, preferably not inside the RV.

If blocking the lower vent is unsuccessful, place a small light bulb inside the lower vent to generate heat.

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3 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

Absorption refrigerators do not operate well in sub-freezing temperatures. The heat sources for the boiler cannot generate enough heat to boil the liquid in the cooling unit. The usual remedy is to tape something over the lower outside vent, beginning with the bottom vent.Do not block the upper vent as burning LP produces Carbon Monoxide =C0, and it must go somewhere, preferably not inside the RV.

If blocking the lower vent is unsuccessful, place a small light bulb inside the lower vent to generate heat.

Sound advice, but don't completely block the lower air intake, for safety. I have used a light bulb to keep mine working in subfreezing weather many times. 

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Thanks.

It won’t operate on LP at the moment so that is not an issue at the moment. We have a heat wave up to jist about freezing point coming so AC should smarten up by morning. 

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23 hours ago, noteven said:

Thanks.

It won’t operate on LP at the moment so that is not an issue at the moment. We have a heat wave up to jist about freezing point coming so AC should smarten up by morning. 

That technique works with either heat source.

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