todm2002 Posted September 9, 2019 Report Share Posted September 9, 2019 It was working fine.......pulled out and was on LP. Got to destination and dead. At this point, I have replaced the power module, and eyebrow circuit board. Still nothing! All fuses are fine in fuse box. I am assuming I am not getting 12v to fridge. I have 110v to the plug and I have 110v at F5. I have read to find if you have 12V at the terminal block and will check this. Any ideas as to why I am not getting 12v???? I am a little baffled at this point. Any help would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devilishjim Posted September 9, 2019 Report Share Posted September 9, 2019 wiggle those fuses they can get corrosion on them Quote Jim Spence 2000 Dodge 3500 1 ton QC 4x4 dually 5.9 diesel LB BD exhaust brake, 6 spd manual trans 34CKTS Cedar Creek 5er, Trail-Air hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted September 9, 2019 Report Share Posted September 9, 2019 Is it really a Dometic 6252 ?????? not a 2652 ??? Regardless, there should be an easy to find 12 VDC two terminal power junction block, and of course, it requires 12+ VDC there to power up the fridge. if its NOT present check for a blown fuse in your 12 VDC distribution panel and trace the wiring from your DC distribution panel to the rear of fridge. Also check those connections at the 12 VDC terminal junction block for loose or open connections, maybe vibration caused one to fail. A DC Voltmeter (best) or even a 6/12 test lamp can find the problem. NOTE low voltage can cause such an issue so a quality voltmeter is really necessary as they can shut down if voltage drops too low. What is the voltage at your house battery bank??? If its low (therefore also low at fridges terminal) see if plugging to shore power (assuming a good working converter/charger) raises voltage and makes the fridge operate ?? If voltage is present you might remove and replace the fuses (of course insure they are not blown) in case there's a resistive or corroded connection. 6 hours ago, todm2002 said: I have read to find if you have 12V at the terminal block and will check this YES INDEED DO THAT The Dometic guy, Dometic, and Bryant RV and several web sites have manuals you can download but searches keep coming up for 2652 ?? https://www.bing.com/search?q=DOMETIC DM 6252 MANUAL&qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&pq=dometic dm 6252 manual&sc=1-22&sk=&cvid=E7A3114C96BD4B3AB6EC60FA917D10A9 Get your voltmeter and go to work, this is an easy to find and easy to get to troubleshooting procedure John T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted September 9, 2019 Report Share Posted September 9, 2019 Find 12vdc somewhere and wire direct to fridge. With a fuse inline on the positive side. Test fridge for operating. I had one years ago that a wire had came apart in the slide wiring that powered the fridge. Then search back to find the problem, or just replace with a new wire run. Safe Travels,. Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted September 9, 2019 Report Share Posted September 9, 2019 Like John, I suspect the numbers may be 2652, since that is a pretty common refrigerator in RVs today. As he mentions, you must have 12V-dc power available to the refrigerator for it to operate in any mode and your lack of any sort of indication makes that a very likely probability. I suggest that if you don't have one, get yourself a moderatly priced digital meter which you should be able to find in a local store for around $30. An RV refrigerator will stop operating at somewhere around 10V-dc supply and it is normal for voltage to drop as the battery is depleted so low voltage is a possibity and those auto-store test lights will not tell you of low voltage and can be misleading. 49 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said: Find 12vdc somewhere and wire direct to fridge. With a fuse inline on the positive side. That is exactly what I was thinking of. if you have some wire you could even fashion a set of jumpers from the battery of your car. Keep in mind that if you use a separate battery as a source you will need to connect the negative side of the battery to the frame of the refrigerator to supply a return path, just as you would use 2 jumper cables to start a car. Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todm2002 Posted September 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2019 (edited) Thank you guys! I am a week away until I get back out to the lake. Turns out it will be covered by warranty. I am still very curious to what happened. I am thinking a wire got caught in the slide and was severed. I will keep you all posted. Edited September 10, 2019 by todm2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted September 10, 2019 Report Share Posted September 10, 2019 17 hours ago, todm2002 said: I will keep you all posted. We appreciate that. It is one of the best ways for us to learn. Quote Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todm2002 Posted September 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 Well, pulled trailer out of it's seasonal lot and is now at the dealership. Guess that extended warranty will be worth the cost. No news as of yet, but like I stated.......will keep you all updated to the fix for my particular problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 6 hours ago, todm2002 said: No news as of yet, but like I stated.......will keep you all updated to the fix for my particular problem. Thanks, the techs will likely find the problem fairly quick, let us know. John T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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