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Replacing Water Pump Filter/Strainer


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That was interesting....now that I have done it.  Does anybody have tips on HOW to do it without flooding the trailer??

I have a standard Flojet Model 03526144 with an inline filter. Basically you snap a couple of taps and the filter slips right out.

Handy...works great except with the water pump OFF, water started pouring out of the filter housing. It was counter intuitive, but turning on the hot water faucet significantly slowed the water flow. Enough to get the filter cleaned and reinserted. 

However, is there a better way?? With the fresh water tank and hot water tank filled?? I do use creek water in my water tank, but pre-filter with a blue inline water filter. Right now, I will do it every year as part of winterizing after blowing out the lines. But it was be nice to be able to do it in mid-season without draining the system.

Any thoughts...thanks.

Vladimr Steblina

Retired Forester...exploring the public lands.

usbackroads.blogspot.com

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If I understand the filter you were changing was on the downstream side of the pump so the pump acted as a valve to prevent the tank from emptying but the water came from the water heater & sink side back through the lines into the place where the filter had been. If that is correct then the water heater being full would have had an air bubble in the top of it that maintained pressure and so caused water to backflow through the place where the filter was. If I am correct on what happened, the next time you need to turn off the water heater and then with the pump off, open a faucet or two to relieve the pressure from the water system before you begin. I would also leave that faucet open until finished, then close it and turn on the pump. Once the pump stops running you turn the water heater on again. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

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I installed our filter/strainer on the suction side to protect the pump.  The pump is connected to the system piping with short sections of hose for isolation.  I crimp the suction side hose with a small clamp (used to use vice grips).

Later,

J

2012 Landmark, San Antonio

2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4

Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS

 

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1 hour ago, Kirk W said:

If I understand the filter you were changing was on the downstream side of the pump so the pump acted as a valve to prevent the tank from emptying but the water came from the water heater & sink side back through the lines into the place where the filter had been. If that is correct then the water heater being full would have had an air bubble in the top of it that maintained pressure and so caused water to backflow through the place where the filter was. If I am correct on what happened, the next time you need to turn off the water heater and then with the pump off, open a faucet or two to relieve the pressure from the water system before you begin. I would also leave that faucet open until finished, then close it and turn on the pump. Once the pump stops running you turn the water heater on again. 

Kodiak...I did think about crimping the line, but decided that might cause more problems...thought about a plug, but decided towels also work.

Kirk....

When I looked at the system I thought without any pressure I would lose maybe a pint of water at most and things would stabilize.  I forgot about the pressure in the hot water tank from the air bubble.  Looking back on it....I think the water was coming from the hot water heater like you said....so when I turned on the pump that sent the water to the faucet instead of the floor. The water line was higher than my water tank so that water didn't run onto the floor!!

The filter is on the "upstream" side of the pump. The water flows past the filter and then into the pump.  From there it feeds the hot water heater and the cold water side of the system. 

I believe I had the hot water system on "flow" rather than bypass....that means the water came from my hot water system flowing backwards through the pump???

I copied your message, put it in a zip lock and stuck it next to the filter. See how it goes next time.

 

I was shocked at the gunk and "smell" of the clogged filter. I suspect that would give one a bad water quality test!! I don't drink or cook with the water in my freshwater tank since I think they are impossible to keep clean. This was an "eye-opening" experience. When I winterize the trailer after blowing all the lines I am going to go ahead and clean the filter at that point in the process. It was almost four years before the filter clogged.

 

Vladimr Steblina

Retired Forester...exploring the public lands.

usbackroads.blogspot.com

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14 hours ago, Kirk W said:

 

I suspect that the use of "creek water" in your tank probably plays a part in this. 

But it was ALL Rocky Mountain spring water!! 

Actually, pretty clean and run through a RV water filter before filling the tank. But I don't drink out of that water in any case.

I suspect it might be a result of not using the trailer for a couple of months in summer with water in the tank. If your not using the freshwater tank on a daily basis...all sorts of bad stuff. I did see an video on cleaning out the filter and he also had the exact same sludge situation. Sounded like he was always on municipal water systems. But he didn't look old enough to be a full-timer.

I like the idea of shut off valves, but not installing them.

I think I will go ahead and make a point of cleaning the filter when I blow out the line in the fall. That way there should be no water in the system. 

 

 

 

Vladimr Steblina

Retired Forester...exploring the public lands.

usbackroads.blogspot.com

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Vlad, have you ever seen an elk standing in a creek, drinking and pooping at the same time?  Also there are germs that live naturally in mountain stream water.

There is no such thing today as "pure mountain creek water'. An acquaintance is a guide/outfitter in the Beartooth mountains East of Yellowstone, he will not use or drink creek/stream water in his camps without sterilizing it by boiling first.

OH, back to your water flooding issue. Your water heater should have a backflow prevention device in the cold water inlet pipe. If the water was from the water heater the backflow device is faulty.

 

Edited by Ray,IN

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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On 5/16/2019 at 12:38 PM, Vladimir said:

That was interesting....now that I have done it.  Does anybody have tips on HOW to do it without flooding the trailer??

I have a standard Flojet Model 03526144 with an inline filter. Basically you snap a couple of taps and the filter slips right out.

Handy...works great except with the water pump OFF, water started pouring out of the filter housing. It was counter intuitive, but turning on the hot water faucet significantly slowed the water flow. Enough to get the filter cleaned and reinserted. 

However, is there a better way?? With the fresh water tank and hot water tank filled?? I do use creek water in my water tank, but pre-filter with a blue inline water filter. Right now, I will do it every year as part of winterizing after blowing out the lines. But it was be nice to be able to do it in mid-season without draining the system.

Any thoughts...thanks.

Vladimir, 

 

I have written a short blog about this that contains some tips that might help you. Check out the link below

 

https://accidentalsnowbirds.com/diy-project-rv-water-pump/

 

Hope this help

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