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trailertraveler

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  1. Not exactly, in my experience. If you are living in an RV and actually traveling around the country, there may not be as many choices depending on the state of domicile/residency. HMOs and Medicare Advantage plans which are often the most economical often have networks that are relatively small geographicly. They may impose additional costs for out of network services. Medicaid, for those eligible, is administered by the states and I am not current on how portable it is these days. Thus my suggestion to do research.
  2. One thing I have not seen mentioned is healthcare/health insurance. If the $1300/month has to include healthcare/health insurance, I suggest you do a lot of research on the issue. While the individual mandate has been eliminated, depending on your age, not having any health insurance or healthcare coverage may not be a wise decision. On edit: Zulu posted the same time I did.
  3. Health insurance costs are extremely variable and depend on each individual's or couple's circumstances. Our Medicare Part B premiums are a little more than $3200/yr. Because of our age, amount of travel and residence location; We choose to have a supplemental plan that includes prescription coverage and just about everything that Medicare does not cover. Our yearly cost including the prescription copays is over 3X what vangophotos lists as their medical expenses.
  4. I didn't respond because 1) I was not interested in experimenting, I just wanted to get power to my trailer, 2) I have been busy and not checked back into the forum until just now, 3) the TRC tech said the device would work for all the other functions and pass power without the blue wire connected to anything, 4) since the thermal disconnect did not prevent damage to the plug, I am not really concerned with restoring that feature. 5) there is so little wire available from the existing pigtail that I did not replace the plug but instead added a waterproof junction box to the bottom of the surge guard and connected the output wire directly to the cord for the trailer that has a 90 degree marine grade twist socket to attach to the trailer input thus eliminating one set of male/female connectors, and 6) since no one knew anything about what the blue wire was for, I expected the thread to die after posting that my problem was solved TRC tech specialist and was no longer following the thread.
  5. I purchased mine April 4, 2016 so the feature is at least that old. The Warranty link states: So mine would not be covered.
  6. The Tech said you can not. Yes, along with mentioning that I was not concerned about the loss of the feature since it did not prevent damage to the plug.
  7. I finally got in touch with TRC Technical Services. The blue wire is for a thermocouple to detect high heat in the plug. It is molded into their custom made plugs. The tech representative said that the unit will function properly without it other than shutting down for high heat at that connection. Since the plug got hot enough to be damaged without shutting down, I am not that concerned about loosing that feature.
  8. As stated in the Topic's title and my first post, it is a Model 34830. The four wires are visible in this photo as is the Model #:
  9. One of the problems with replacing the female plug on these units is that they do not leave much of a pigtail between the box and the plug. Unfortunately in my attempt to have as much wire as possible, I unknowingly cut/ground through the back of the ground terminal destroying the connections. I was able to access the ends of the other terminals and it appears that there is only one wire attached to each. The remains of the blue wire were closest to the ground terminal. I do have the male input pigtail from a previous unit that sacrificed itself in a severe lighting storm. Not sure that it means anything but that pigtail also has a small blue wire which according to the Ohm meter is connected to the ground prong of the plug. With the frequency with which plugs get damaged, I am a little surprised no one else has encountered this. Having had several Surge Guards over the years, I think it appeared with the generation of models that would not pass power rather than just identifying faults with a blinking light. As mentioned above, this is the second unit I have had that had this configuration.
  10. I really do not want to break the seal on the unit. I did that on a previous one of the old style and it did not last long afterward due to moisture getting into the unit despite the use of lots of sealant. I do not understand how seeing where the wire is connected inside the unit will tell me which plug terminal it should connect to. Using the Ohm meter, I get a reading when connecting the blue wire to the green ground on the output side. No reading on the black or white. When I connect the blue wire to the input side, I get readings on all three prongs of the plug.
  11. Kirk, I am confused by your post. Did your Surge Guard have a fourth wire or not? Mine definitely does as I have already removed the old molded plug. I have used the premade pigtails before and none of them had four wires just the typical Black, White and Green. The product that you link to does not indicate that it has four wires?
  12. I need to replace the female 30 amp plug on my surge guard 34830. There are four wires in the cord exiting the 34830; the standard Black, White, Green and a small blue wire (about 16 gauge). The factory plug is a molded plug and I have not been able to access it to view the connections. My question is which terminal does the blue wire get attached to?
  13. I know it is being done. How well it actually works will depend on the target temperature, the ambient outside temperatures, how well insulated the trailer is, how large an area of the trailer will be cooled and what other electrical demands may also be required. Proper sizing of the battery bank and solar panels requires knowing the total energy demand and estimating the output of the solar panels that can be expected for the location. To truly guaranty success, one might need a generator with auto-start capability. If this will be just a one time occurrence, it may be far less costly to board the cat at a Vet or kennel.
  14. We have driven from Albuquerque to Santa Fe and Las Vegas a number of times. I don't remember anything particularly taxing about I-25. Las Vegas and Santa Fe are at higher elevation than Albuquerque and there are ups and downs along the way. We prefer the more scenic routes like NM-14 (the Turquoise Highway), US-285 and US-84. Not sure what the low end for inclusion in the Mountain Directory is but there are lots of mentions of 5% grades.
  15. Welcome to the Escapees forum!!! Since you have sewer, I would suggest a park model, mobile home, or tiny house which all have a direct connection to the sewer and standard toilet fixtures. Any RV will have holding tanks which you will need to allow to fill, then dump and flush. Problems occur if you leave the black tank open all the time.
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