Ignition Lock Cylinder

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Symptoms- Key doesn't always turn in the cylinder. Usually, end up doing a wiggle on the key and moving the steering wheel enough to turn the wheels to get it to unlock. Its a B#@*h when the wheels are against a curb.

 

Is this a DIY replacement or a trip to the Volvo guys? What's the chance that a cylinder can be keyed to our existing key so we don't end up 1 key for the doors, and 1 for the ignition?

 

[Hewhoknowslittle]

Symptoms- Key doesn't always turn in the cylinder. Usually, end up doing a wiggle on the key and moving the steering wheel enough to turn the wheels to get it to unlock. Its a B#@*h when the wheels are against a curb.

 

Is this a DIY replacement or a trip to the Volvo guys? What's the chance that a cylinder can be keyed to our existing key so we don't end up 1 key for the doors, and 1 for the ignition?

 

Jim,

Mine used to do this, went to the dealer and ordered a new key, works perfect now, so had some spares made.

If you see any wear on your key you might try this.

 

Roger

[Steve from SoCal]

Can't speak for Volvo but, Mercedes mechanical ignition switches DO fail and it is a real PIA to drill them out. It is much easier to replace the cylinder before it fails hard. The cylinder should be available from Volvo, keyed to your truck. You should be able to remove and replace the cylinder yourself if you can turn it to the release position and use the removal device required.

 

The removal device is usually a round or flat that can be shop made.

 

Steve

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Roger- This happens with both keys.... equally worn I don't know.

Steve- Back in past vehicles, I remember a simple screwdriver starting both a jeep and an old International truck.

[beyerjf]

I just went through this with my Freightliner. The ignition switch, not the lock cylinder was the problem. It would not turn unless wiggled, or worse, would not return from the start position, keeping the starter engaged after the engine started.

The ignition switch without lock cylinder was $12.65. In order to get the lock cylinder, you had to order all the lock cylinders for the truck (3- both doors and the ignition) which were get this $155.

I tried to pop the lock out and turn the switch with a screwdriver, but alas the engineers thought of that and had a small round recessed hole which defeated that attempt.

Freightliner had the ignition switch on the shelf, very simple part, probably same for at least 30 years. Key in place, depress the retaining ring on side, pop out the old lock cylinder, and then install the old lock cylinder in the new ignition switch.

[RandyA]

Remove the panel on the bottom of the steering column using a T25 Torx screwdriver. Oil the cylinder and lock with graphite based lock oil or another thin oil like sewing machine oil or even WD-40. If you try this you may not need to replace anything. Keys get dirty, dirt goes in key cylinder eventually causing problems like you described.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Just an update

I found a product recommended by a local locksmith called Lock-Ease.

It's a graphite mix that lubricates and helps clean the lock internals.

What I did was remove the cover on the bottom of the column, sprayed a compressed air can, like the ones you use on a keyboard, with the straw down in the lock itself. The amount of dust that blew out was impressive. Next was several shots of the Lock-Ease. More dirt and grime seeped out of the tiny hole in the lock assembly. Blew the lock out again and resprayed the lock again with Lock-Ease. Cleaned both keys with an old toothbrush.

The lock hasn't stuck in 2 weeks. It feels different when turning the key as well. Before the key rotated in the cylinder what felt to be smoothly, now it turns to each detent position with a firmer feel. Before you didn't have to push the lock cylinder in to turn the key to the first position, now you do like a new lock would.

So with luck, this cleaning will last another 3-400000 miles before needing some more attention.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

New update-

We ended up having to replace the entire ignition lock cylinder. The key would not turn enough to be able to push the indent pin to remove the mechanism. So I removed the top cover of the column, removed the 2 Allen bolts, unplugged the wiring, and took the whole assembly to the dealer. New one was $171 plus shipping. This was the cheapest and fastest option. For a longer wait time and $40-50 more, they would key a cylinder to our existing door locks. I can live with 2 keys.