slackercruster

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About slackercruster

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    Full Member
  • Birthday 12/11/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Born in L.A....NYC is 2nd home...Rustbelt is home base!
  • Interests
    Freezing time
  1. A RV mechanic told me if the rig is level enough for sleeping it is good enough for the fridge? True or false? I don't get mine perfect level, but I try to get it half-ass level. I am only off-kilter a little, for a few days at most anyway. Is one off level way worse than the other for the fridge? Like sideways unleveled or level from the front to rear of the rig?
  2. Never knew about this issue. Thanks for the heads up OP.
  3. Latest report... Went on roof to see if I could clean out chimney vent. Took big plastic cap off. The whole thing has a screen on it and I can't access. Took off side cover and I used a skinny plumbing drain brush to go up part way on the chimney. I took off the little burning pot that has the thermocouple and gas going into and tried to blow it out, but could not disassemble it. The nut holding the gas pipe in looks like it is lockttited and I didn't want to bend it up forcing it. I can't find any label as to model in the fridge or in the side access area. It is a little Dometic 3-way fridge 12v, 110 and propane. It is working now on propane in any case. Something I did must have fixed it. I will keep looking for model tag to download the instructions. I checked the flame in the dark and it is nice, big and blue. Thanks again for all the help!
  4. I carry in the rustbelt. (SW Airlite) When in CA, NJ and NYC I have pepper and 600 lumen tactical light. I also have collapsible baton in the rustbelt. Never have had to use them as of yet. But have had many close calls. If trouble is brewing I try to move out asap.
  5. OK, will print this thread out and go over everything.
  6. Here is the water rundown with some filter tests as well. Test results are shown in photos. https://danielteolijr.wordpress.com/2016/01/18/6035/ While boondocking at Liberty RV in Jersey I saw a lot of rigs using filters at the faucet hose outside. I wonder how good they are. I don't have any interest in them. I bring bottled water to drink and use tap water for non drinking.
  7. OK thanks for all the help, I will check it all out. I looked at it in the daytime so hard to tell if the flame was one. After hearing it click to fire up, it looked like the flame was just on just a little and the chimney was warm, but not hot. I will have to study it up at night when I can see the flame better. Or should the flame be very visible in the daytime?
  8. On 12V or house electric the fridge works fine. When I switch to propane the freezer is kinda cold, maybe 50 degrees, but the main fridge is hardly cold. (Maybe 10 degrees below room temp) . Even when temp is set to max. Any ideas what is wrong? I hear it sparking to light and I think it does lights, but I don't think it is firing up on high.The pilot light may only be on, but am not sure, it is hard to see what is happening. It is a 2010 vintage fridge in a truck camper. I plan to put on insect screens, as there was some bug debris in the box when I looked at it. Thanks
  9. The white grab handle where I go up the steps is mildewed. The lights have white plastic around them that is mildewed. What is good to clean the plastic with? Or does plastic last longer if it is left alone with the plasticizers as is.
  10. OK, thanks for all the help. For me sounds like it is worth it. I have a bunch of 20's and to get them in and out to weigh em out of my truck camper takes a step ladder. Just too much hassle, plus the tanks are wedged in so tight in the propane box I skin my hands or get pinched getting them in.
  11. http://www.levelcheck.com/us/ Any issues or is it worth the $
  12. I found this, great resource for rubber roof info. http://www.bestmaterials.com/RV_roof_repair_info.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw2qzHBRChloWxgoXDpyASJAB01Io0ftc-lExChAX5UICFxHvk9J8IHzcLYyA2HuIgI4_YFxoCUlrw_wcB ...off to get the self leveling stuff!
  13. Thanks for the advice!
  14. Thanks for the help. A local dealer said to redo the rubber roof on a truck camper cost about $3000, but he can recoat it for about 20% to 25% of that. My roof is all white, but the caulking started to crack last year, so I figured the roof may need replacing soon. But the main rubber roof still looks OK, just a little dirty. I had a few cracks in the caulk and was going to use white silicone but was told not to use silicone, so will have to get the self leveling caulk. Has anyone used non silicone caulk on the rubber roofs? Anything marked RV seems to be overpriced, so I was wondering if there were any less expensive caulks that worked OK. He said Spic and Span works good for roof cleaning. I may clean around the caulks that need redoing. Last year I just caulked over it as-is. It was enough of a job doing the caulking without more work. I don't like working on vehicles or RV...I just like using them. But I can't afford to replace the camper, so am trying to take better care of it. The only marathon job I did when I got it was to replace most of the exterior and interior screws and nuts with stainless steel. On my old Aliner camper they rusted up in no time.
  15. Both of mine batteries (truck camper and Ford F350) are original and will be 7 years old in August. Thinking they are getting near the end. Do you think they would be OK for year 8?