SLIDEOUT IS NOT LEVEL

[Angie M]

[Angie M]

[Angie M]

[Angie M]

Well I finally got the pictures to post, but it only let me do one at a time. 

[Wrknrvr]

   I would suggest to look under the slide front lip area. Or from the outside when the slide is out.

   I can see there is something rubbing the nylon support as the slide comes in. POSSIBLY a bug staple.   Or more like a screw head, that has backed out.    They may put two pieces of wood floor material together.

 

   

[2gypsies]

Try finding a Keystone owners forum to ask the question.

[Angie M]

On 2/13/2024 at 5:12 PM, Kirk W said:

I am pretty sure that you have a Lippert frame and slide mechanism. You should take a look at this video from Lippert to see if it looks like what you have. Lippert also has a pretty good track record for customer support so you may want to try their Contact Us to see if they can help you. 

Well went to try this video and level this slide and found bigger issues a subject for a new post that has to be fixed before we can do this because the slides aren't working at all. Ugh!

[Angie M]

On 2/17/2024 at 1:47 PM, Angie M said:

Well went to try this video and level this slide and found bigger issues a subject for a new post that has to be fixed before we can do this because the slides aren't working at all. Ugh!

We followed the lippert video and the slide is now level. Thank you! But it still sags in the middle. We pulled the carpet up and it’s as if there is no support holding up this Particle board. Any ideas on how to correct this slag?

[Angie M]

[Ray,IN]

Does the same amount of sag show on the underside? If not, I wonder if the same thickness of plywood, beveled on each side would fill-in that sag?

The expensive way to correct that would be to saw right down the center of that sag, then pry up each side and insert a wide shim underneath to bring it all back to level. Then the particle-board can be screwed down to the glued (using structural adhesive) in place shims

Edited February 25 by Ray,IN

[Kirk W]

If there is room on the underside to add a angle iron brace across the center to support it and push it back up to the same level. It would depend on the clearances for the slide operation equipment and for things to clear as they go in and out. A picture of the underside of the slide where the sag is located would help to make suggestions.

[Wrknrvr]

   Think about putting 5/8” furniture grade plywood on top of the whole slide floor. Use drywall screws to pull the lower floor up in place.   There needs to be holes drilled in the upper plywood for the screws to go through. This needs done before the plywood is layer down the final time. It the saw dust will keep the lower floor pull up against the upper floor.

 

 

   Do not put a joint over the center dip.

  Just a thought.

 

[Angie M]

The same sag does show on the underside. The floor is one piece of 5/8” OSB.  The screws where the table tie downs were went all the way through and you can see light.  I do not think there is anyway to put supports and still be able to bring the room in and out.  I will get a picture posted of the underside. 
 

11 hours ago, Kirk W said:

If there is room on the underside to add a angle iron brace across the center to support it and push it back up to the same level. It would depend on the clearances for the slide operation equipment and for things to clear as they go in and out. A picture of the underside of the slide where the sag is located would help to make suggestions.

 

11 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

Does the same amount of sag show on the underside? If not, I wonder if the same thickness of plywood, beveled on each side would fill-in that sag?

The expensive way to correct that would be to saw right down the center of that sag, then pry up each side and insert a wide shim underneath to bring it all back to level. Then the particle-board can be screwed down to the glued (using structural adhesive) in place shims

 

 

[Angie M]

8 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

   Think about putting 5/8” furniture grade plywood on top of the whole slide floor. Use drywall screws to pull the lower floor up in place.   There needs to be holes drilled in the upper plywood for the screws to go through. This needs done before the plywood is layer down the final time. It the saw dust will keep the lower floor pull up against the upper floor.

 

 

   Do not put a joint over the center dip.

  Just a thought.

 

We actually have thought of this. It would require a 12’ piece.  We’ve been trying to figure out how to get that in. We think it’s possible. The only problem is it would make a large lip on the edge to deal with. I suppose it could be beveled. Use a planner to fan it even? The front and back of the slide is stable. The middle is weak and probably over time will break. At least that’s what it feels like.  Are you saying to glue as well as screw or just screw?  If so, would this cause an issue if the floor in the future needed repair ?

[Kirk W]

In going back through the thread I don't see where the distance that the slide extends out from the side of the RV but if it is 5/8 OSB that is 12' long and perhaps 3' wide with no support other than the edges, I am not surprised that it has begun to sag in the middle. If it is impossible to add any sort of support under the OSB then it will have to be done from above, such as the plywood suggested by Vern above. If doing that I would use something like "Liquid Nail" between the two layers to insure that it is a permanent bond. Be sure to glue all areas and the edges of the plywood. Just to be sure that the OSB is pulled up and not the plywood bowed downward, I would use come blocks and a jack outside, under the slide to push up and remove the sag before I laid the plywood on top. And I would leave that support under the slide for long enough to be sure that the glue had time to bond. Anything that you do on the inside to support the floor from above will add a lip to the slide but that was common with slides when they were first introduced to RV manufacturing.

The only alternative that I can think of would be to build a small cabinet that would become a permanent part of the slide whose framework could be attached to the floor to support it from above.

Edited February 25 by Kirk W

[Kirk W]

41 minutes ago, Angie M said:

I suppose it could be beveled. Use a planner to fan it even? The front and back of the slide is stable.

Before you do that, make sure that there is ample support for the added plywood along the edge as any beveling will make the plywood weaker and could cause it to sag in time. The other thing to remember is that a narrow beveled area will still be a tripping hazard but will be harder to see than a lip would be. 

[Angie M]

14 minutes ago, Kirk W said:

Before you do that, make sure that there is ample support for the added plywood along the edge as any beveling will make the plywood weaker and could cause it to sag in time. The other thing to remember is that a narrow beveled area will still be a tripping hazard but will be harder to see than a lip would be. 

Duly noted. Thank you. 

[Wrknrvr]

  I would suggest to put the full sheet length in the slide floor, in the middle. Then put smaller pieces at each end. If you cannot get a long enough plywood sheet.

 

 A 4” grinder with course sand paper could be used to make the curved edge.

 

  To do it correctly, would be to remove the old floor material? And replace it with high quality ply wood.   There I said it.    Although that would be more exercise in, patients, thoughts and choices of woods.

 

   Yes I did it before.    One time I removed everything from a bedroom slide?    All I had let in place was the original roof, the ceiling fabric and the fiberglass wall panels not the exterior.

 

   When you are done with the floor? Then you may want to readjust the floor so when the slide is in, that the exterior seal fits properly.

[Angie M]

2 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

  I would suggest to put the full sheet length in the slide floor, in the middle. Then put smaller pieces at each end. If you cannot get a long enough plywood sheet.

 

 A 4” grinder with course sand paper could be used to make the curved edge.

 

  To do it correctly, would be to remove the old floor material? And replace it with high quality ply wood.   There I said it.    Although that would be more exercise in, patients, thoughts and choices of woods.

 

   Yes I did it before.    One time I removed everything from a bedroom slide?    All I had let in place was the original roof, the ceiling fabric and the fiberglass wall panels not the exterior.

 

   When you are done with the floor? Then you may want to readjust the floor so when the slide is in, that the exterior seal fits properly.

Yes replacing the floor is the best way, but we are not prepared to attempt that with our pea sized brains. Two peas total. 

[Wrknrvr]

   So two peas make a pod.

   Now we are getting some where.  I am thinking to front edge could be beveled down just a tad.

   Will think about it today. Will try to post some angle thoughts on paper and post a picture in the morning.   Thinking???

 

   Home Depot should have Birch plywood in 4x8 sheets. Lowe’s May have them also that are furniture grade. 

   Will be on higher end price range?

[Wrknrvr]

  I am thinking you should adjust the slide so the exterior seals fit correctly.

 Then work on insulation of the plywood.

[Kirk W]

5 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

Home Depot should have Birch plywood in 4x8 sheets.

      At Home Depot, 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. PureBond Birch Plywood is $79.68 per sheet.

I am wondering how deep the slide is and if you need a full 4X8' sheet? I don't believe that you will be able to find any plywood that is 12' long in any regular lumberyard. If it were me, I would not go to the expense of hardwood use fir plywood. I would still like to see a picture of the underside of the slide as I'd think that a 12' slide would have some sort of support under the flooring. The location of the parts of the frame is important in what you do to correct the problem. Have you measured to see what the dimensions of material you will need? 

Are you planning to do the work yourself? I have been assuming that you will do so and have been basing my suggestions on that. 

Edited February 26 by Kirk W

[Ray,IN]

Since the present floor is only 5/8" OSB, which was a poor choice anyway, I like Kirks idea better than mine. Depending on clearance under the floor, If there is clearance, 1" angle iron mounted under the present bowed floor, would push the OSB back up to level. Each end would have to be secured with carriage bolts from above and nylock nuts on the bottom, It might require more than one piece of angle to completely level the floor.

Edited February 26 by Ray,IN

[Angie M]

6 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

  I am thinking you should adjust the slide so the exterior seals fit correctly.

 Then work on insulation of the plywood.

The slide has been adjusted and seals seal and it’s level. Just the sinking/sagging issue. 

[Angie M]

1 hour ago, Kirk W said:

      At Home Depot, 3/4 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. PureBond Birch Plywood is $79.68 per sheet.

I am wondering how deep the slide is and if you need a full 4X8' sheet? I don't believe that you will be able to find any plywood that is 12' long in any regular lumberyard. If it were me, I would not go to the expense of hardwood use fir plywood. I would still like to see a picture of the underside of the slide as I'd think that a 12' slide would have some sort of support under the flooring. The location of the parts of the frame is important in what you do to correct the problem. Have you measured to see what the dimensions of material you will need? 

Are you planning to do the work yourself? I have been assuming that you will do so and have been basing my suggestions on that. 

The slide is 12’ x 3.5’. I do not see any support underneath.   Tomorrow I will post the picture of the underside. Also going to call keystone and see if they can give me some insight. Yes, we are doing it ourself. If the floor has to come out we will have to get professional help. Although we’ve taken it in 3 times 3 different places and were told at each one “it’s made that way. Can’t help”.