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My Teton uses 50amp circuit relay for the slide out motor to run the hydraulic pump. I believe that is the highest load for us. If i go to hydraulic levelers it will be years down the road. Whole selcetion likely different then. I see 48/12 50 amp units on Amazon for $100.00. Would this be enough or do I need more.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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All depends. What's the duty cycle of the converter you're looking at? There should be something in the specs about how long it can produce 50 amp, along with some temperature corrections. Kinda like specing a welder. A 200 Lincoln Pipeliner used to be the go to rig machine. Now there's everything from little 2 cylinder gas 100 amp units, to monster 400 amp diesels running around. 

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


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They also havde a 60 amp unit for not much more. Looked at specs. Actually recommend for pump motors to double output. The only time I have caused the relay to trip is reversing slide while in operation. That will stop it now.

Edited by GlennWest

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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Without an actual amp draw while the pump is in use, I'm just guessing, but more often than not the fuse/breaker is bigger than the actual draw. Prevents unnecessary trips. The fuse /breaker is sized to protect the wire, with a little extra to handle inrush current. The wire is  (hopefully) sized to supply the load. 

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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2 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Without an actual amp draw while the pump is in use, I'm just guessing, but more often than not the fuse/breaker is bigger than the actual draw. Prevents unnecessary trips. The fuse /breaker is sized to protect the wire, with a little extra to handle inrush current. The wire is  (hopefully) sized to supply the load. 

And by that logic I should be fine with same load converter.My levelers are wired directly to battery I believe. Saw no fuse for it anyway. Looks to be #8 wire going to them.

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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I would love to say "There's gotta be a fuse", but I'm not that brave. You have a better than average chance of success with the 50 amp setup, but you won't get a guarantee from me. 

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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Then you're gold with the 50 amp box you were looking at, assuming the total of all other 12 volt loads are under 20 amps.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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Glenn, sorry here late but FWIW I'm thinking along the same lines as Darryl. If I was wiring a load which had a maximum continuous current of 40 Amps, I would size the wire to have a minimum ampacity of 125% X 40 or 50 Amps, and then size the overcurrent protection device TO PROTECT THE WIRE  IE  50 AMPS. However no way sitting here I can know the maximum continuous current or duty cycle of your load so the above may or may not hold true.

Selecting the overload protection device can be a bit more complicated then the above, there are pure thermal devices and there are thermal magnetic and there are what are sometimes referred to as dual element time delay fuses aka Slow Blow and there are times a fuse is preferred over a mechanical breaker (often in motor loads) it all depends on the application.   They also make circuit breakers designed for HVAC applications which allow for temporary high current surges (greater then full load current) when a motor starts up. 

If you only have 8 Gauge wire to the motors (and its sized correctly ????) its just my PURE GUESS no guarantee if you buy a 50 amp rated converter (subject to the rating and temperature and other hyped up numbers) you should be fine. Of course that wire or any wires leaving the battery out to loads REQUIRE OVERCURRENT PROTECTION AT OR NEAR THE BATERY NOTTTTTTTTTTTT WAY DOWNSTREAM LEAVING THE WIRE UNPROTECTED. I have no idea of your other loads, so again this is only a guess and an approximation NO GUARANTEE

Nice sparky chattin with yall

John T

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on dc side, furance, led lights, slides (50 amp relay), jacks (30 amp fuse). fridge is 110v, controls on water heater, fantstic fan. That's all I can think of. Planning on the 60 amp unit. 

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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