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99 Century jake and cruise issue


Fire guy

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I've got a 99 Freightliner century, 12.7 D60, 3 pedal auto, and a few months ago, before I started my bed build, I noticed after parking that the  "parking brake applied" warning light stayed on after I released the clutch.  Usually it would buzz if you started to push the clutch in without releasing the park brake but as soon as you released the clutch, it would immediately go off.  The next time I drove it, before looking into the issue, I realized pretty quick that I had no jake and no cruise.  Simple fix, I thought.  Took out the clutch switch, 3 wires NO, NC, and Common, bench tested the switch, all good.  Reinstalled and problem went away.  Figured just a loose connection or alignment at the switch.  Havent really moved the thing in the last few months until today.  Almost have the bed finished, figured I would take it into work with me and get a few things done and here we go again.  No jake, no cruise.  Tested the clutch switch again, still good.  Pressure switch off the park valve I believe to be good because when it is in Park Brake Applied warning, releasing the park brake turns off the alarm.  Kind of stumped on where the wires from the clutch switch go.  Do they go up and through the fuse panel?  Direct to ECM?  Having a heck of time finding any schematics and I am far from an expert with electrical gremlins.  Also, when parked with brake applied, I can still use the cruise to idle up and hold at a high idle so Im guessing the ECM knows im stationary, (speed sensor good) and brake is applied, (park brake switch good). I also plugged into the Detroit reader today at work and I figured out how to test switches and the service brake switch was good as well.  However it would not "see" the clutch switch when activated.   Everything tells me its the clutch switch but it bench tests fine..  Any words of wisdom or maybe a electrical schematic out there?  It is possible that I'm just not smart enough to bench test a switch!

 

Thanks in advance.

 

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Exile,  we tried that right off the bat but no luck.  Found a diagram of all the pressure switches in the dash so trying to decide which ones could be affecting the system.  Has to be one of those pressure switches.  One of the wires going from the clutch switch has #953 on it.  There is also a #953 going into one of the pressure switches.  Guessing its the same wire just figured each sensor would run to the ECM and not between multiple sensors.  Thinking #953 is just a common ground.  Thanks for the idea though

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Trans in neutral, clutch closed, engine idling, switch cruise/hand throttle system off

release park brakes and apply service brakes, release service brakes and apply them again

open clutch and select launch gear

does warning go away?

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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Have you had a chance to hook up to a diagnostics computer?  Could be a speed sensor or that it's possibly reading a brake switch is engaged somewhere in the system?  I would also have the abs controller tested...could be a fault in the unit itself.

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Noteven.  I did figure it out yesterday afternoon.  After testing every sensor and switch I could find that was involved and purchasing a 3700 pg maintenance manual with all the schematics ($32, well worth it) I couldn't find anything "wrong". Gave up trying to figure it out, got off shift and drove home.  Sitting parked in the yard idling I started running through all switches and valves involved.  I pushed in the trailer supply valve and the PB warning light/buzzer went out momentarily.  While building my bed I had put a female air coupler to run air tools with off the valve at the back of the sleeper.  Some how, not sure of the air flow pattern I caused, I think it was causing residual pressure at one of the sensors and thus confusing the system.  Anyway, removed the coupler, cycled the trailer supply valve several times and all is back to normal.  Lesson learned and I can now recite the numbers on almost every wire running to and from the ECM.  Thanks for the advice.

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Maveric.  I'm not advertising, but I found it at https://www.emanualonline.com.   I thought it might be a little sketchy, and took over 6 hrs for my email to return with the "instant" download, but for a couple days of reading through it, it has everything I need and more.  Takes more time running through 3700+ pages to find what I want but I have the info now. 

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Maveric.  Since I started the post, i should be able to deviate from the original topic.  I see your out of Colorado, where at?  I'm over in Montrose.  Seeing your pic I'm  guessing your a rock crawler guy.  We spend lots of time over in Moab.  Just curious.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hello I am new here joined to comment on your post.   Clutch switch is likely bad.   I have the same clutch switch in my Columbia.  I have also taken mine out and tested it and it was good.  Decided to change it anyways everything worked.  

 

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I actually thought I had it figured out.  Everything worked and two days later, back to no Jake, no cruise, and the park brake warning light on regardless of clutch position... Driving me insane.  All the symptoms say clutch switch but it passed the bench test, have taken off the wires and physically opened and closed the circuit, bypassing the switch, and still nothing.  Tomorrow I was going to test #5 pin at the engine side firewall harness too see if it's grounded like it should be, then J2 at  the ECM to see if it's grounded. Then test then again with the clutch engaged to see if they open.  If they are, the circuit from the switch to the ECM should be fine.  

I tried to locate a switch locally and no one had one and couldn't find one online Which really surprised me but it's worth a try.  I will make some calls to freightliner in the morning, it's about 80 miles from home but I don't know what else to try.

I appreciate your help and welcome to the forum.

 

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Yeah oddly enough I couldn't find one online either.  I'm a few minutes from a freightliner dealer. But I drive 45 miles away to a different dealer.  Long story short they are rude.  

 

If your bench testing it you'd be looking for a voltage drop and then back again when it hits a specific spot on the switch? 

Tough to find I couldn't get it to do it again unless it was on the truck.   But checking the wiring is great idea first.  Could be a short somewhere causing the issue.   Had a international tow truck that had issues with the horn. Tested the switch and it was good.  Found a wire was grounding in the dash causing the horn to go when you hit a bump hard enough.   

I also had no Jake and no cruise tested that switch a thousand different ways.  All came back good.  Changed the switch and worked great. 

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Fireguy;

To "other Freightliner" owners as well!

Here is "the" reminder.....if you sign up to Daimler DTNA (ex Access Freightliner), with the last 6# of your VIN#. You will have unlimited access to "your" trucks records and manuals! Including "all" build data, schematics, recalls and parts diagrams! All for "FREE"! This is such invaluable "free" information, it really is a "true" feature of owning a Daimler product! 

I try to YELL this from the hillsides! I know this is a "perk" the "other" manufacturers wish they would have done!

On your problem, check the fuse packs that are tagged into your battery cabling wiring. Or the ground tie of that bank or circuit.

One thing to love about the pre emissions Freightliners, they are simple!

 

 

2001 Freightliner Century, 500hp Series 60, Gen 2 autoshift, 3.42 singled rear locker.

2004 Keystone Sprinter 299RLS (TT)

2 & 4 Wheelers!

2013 Polaris Ranger 800 midsize LE

Our motto "4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul!"

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I had a situation on a GMC 3500 where the trailer brakes wouldnt work sometimes and so I changed the likely culprit, the brake controller, worked for a while then not.  Rechecked the controller, and other things.  This went on for almost a year until 1 day, I had another trailer I tow hooked to the truck and it was night, and noticed that brake lights didnt always come on.  Ah-ha moment.  Removed the brake switch and found it failing.  Replaced it and problem solved.  But had to spend $ for a new, not needed brake controller.  

Marcel

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CDR,. Will definitely look into it.  We actually took it and the fifth wheel out for a 200 mile drive yesterday, kind of the first road trip with it and the fifth wheel and the Jake and cruise worked the whole time.  Had one little glitch in The parking lot of tractor supply when the park brake alarm wouldn't go off but 10 seconds later it went off.  Ordered some sensors and clutch switches from freightliner, will swap them out Tuesday regardless.

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13 hours ago, Fire guy said:

CDR,. Will definitely look into it.  We actually took it and the fifth wheel out for a 200 mile drive yesterday, kind of the first road trip with it and the fifth wheel and the Jake and cruise worked the whole time.  Had one little glitch in The parking lot of tractor supply when the park brake alarm wouldn't go off but 10 seconds later it went off.  Ordered some sensors and clutch switches from freightliner, will swap them out Tuesday regardless.

Fireguy;

Let me know if I can be of more assistance.

 

Curt

2001 Freightliner Century, 500hp Series 60, Gen 2 autoshift, 3.42 singled rear locker.

2004 Keystone Sprinter 299RLS (TT)

2 & 4 Wheelers!

2013 Polaris Ranger 800 midsize LE

Our motto "4 wheels move the body, 2 wheels move the soul!"

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