Clutch peddle fading.... too much free peddal..?

[OU812]

On the last trip, the last 3000 miles, I had to adjust the clutch every 800 miles, or so, to get home. The free pedal was just about all I had. SO what I have is: 98 Volvo, 610 with a Cummins + red top , trans 10 speed fuller. Clutch was replaced about 190 miles ago. Only use clutch to stop and start. The problem was noticed about the last 3000 miles. I adjusted the clutch, (on the clutch) several times to give me about 2 in at the bottom of the peddle that was the best I could get. Could this be abad clutch brake? OR just need a clutch. It pull good. any help would be appreciated. Thank you OU812

[Wrknrvr]

So there is 190 miles on a new clutch. There is a Clovis type pin in the linkage that may be about to shear through.

Or there could be a slave cylinder or master cylinder problem. Are you sure that the pedal is moving the throw out bearing. Have someone push the clutch in and see what is happening down below.

 

That way we can get a better understanding of what is happening.

 

Safe Travels, Vern

[OU812]

Thank you Vern for replying. yes the throw out bearing is moving....I would say 1/4 to 3/8 inch. ...or so Would a worn clutch brake create this problem.....or nothing to do with it.?? When I adjust the clutch....I remove the locking tab (remove bolt and tab) and turn the notches on the clutch, counter clock wise, that is looking from the back to the front at the clutch. I then turn the notches on the clutch, counter clock wise (toward the driver side) around. I can only get about 2 inch. of peddle (at the bottom or floor)when adjustment is made... My plan now is to install a new clutch brake and start over.... When on the road pulling hills.. no slipping, with power on, going up or down. I'm running about 45,000 lb....so a clutch should last more the 200,000 miles...I would think. I will check the linkage and cylinder agene... I've looked at this before,,,,but I'll take a another look. I'm home so have more resources to work with. Thank you OU812

[OU812]

Thank you Vern for replying Yes the clutch arm (bearing) is moving about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. I have looked at the cylinder and linkage before, I'll take another look. I'm home with more resources. Do you think the clutch brake would have any thing to do with adjustment. My plan is to replace the clutch brake and start over with adjusting. I would think a clutch would last more then 200,000 miles.....I'm pulling about 45,000 lb. Clutch doesn't seam to slip with power, on going up a long hill. I always thought as a clutch wears.... the free travel gets less,(goes away). This clutch gets more.... free travel. I'm missing something simple.... Thank you OU812

[Wrknrvr]

I would check the fluid level in the resivoir. Then with someone in the truck moving the pedal when you command them to do so check how the linkage reacts to the pedal motion.

Last winter I rebuilt the slave cylinder with a standard cup seal from NAPA for $3.50.

 

While the slave cylinder was apart I noticed the pin in the yoke linkage was worn about 1/8" . We have had this truck since 2007 and it never was friendly to get it into reverse. As the clutch brake would not stop things the way it should. But just lived with it as it never changed its time to stop things.

The slave cylinder bore was good so just honed it to dress it up and with a new cup it works great.

 

Now with a new pin in the linkage and the hydraulic system in proper order the clutch works as it should. We have put about 80000 miles on this truck since we purchased it.

 

Never adjusted the clutch. The clutch pedal now has much better feel and reaction with the new pin. I think that the pin may have been able to rotate in its bore when the pedal was pushed and let the worn part get to its worn spot. But when released it would feel tighter as it was free to rotate. And then give a false feel for adjustment.

 

So check the reaction from the pedal to the clutch fork. If that is good then on to the clutch.

 

Safe Travels, Vern

[Wrknrvr]

As stated before the slave cylinder cup was a standard part at Napa.

 

The pin in the linkage was purchased at a hardware store. For not much.

 

No trip to Volvo was involved.

 

Keep it straight. Vern

[SIBERNUT]

Volvo hyd clutch is a bear to get bled right. Because of the position of the bleed screw on the slave piston, air can get trapped. Might be the problem.

[OU812]

Thank you all...... I started over...Fluid was low...2 table spoons to full mark.... new clutch brake installed. Made adjustments...checked throw out bearing back spacing, 1/2, good. Found that the hose from reservoir to slave cylinder was weeping, found after leaving the clutch in for a hour or so. Got hose on order to replace. Reservoir doesn't hold very much fluid, that add really made a big difference. Thank you for all the help. Ready for the road...OU812

[Jeff.Sloan]

Mine was a pain to bleed when I did the air assist conversion. After a lot of research online I found the best method was to pump fluid in from the bottom up, i.e. into the slave cyl and back fill the system until the master cyl was full. I used a normal transmission fluid pump and it worked great! Took less than 5 min once I figured it all out and the clutch is nice and firm.

 

I got the air assist installed, re-bled the system, and readjusted the clutch. The clutch brake works for the first time since I bought it and it drives like a whole new truck now!