Long Cycle on new water pump

charlyhors · October 20, 2016

We have a new Open Range 5W. The water pump will run anywhere from 15 seconds after water usage, up to several minutes or not quitting at all till we turn it off. I've inspected for water leaks wherever I can see - in the water distribution, water heater area - appears dry. I also drilled a couple of half inch holes in the bottom shielding at the lowest places to see if there was any water collecting in the under area. Also dry, and resealed that with a strong tape.

This is leaving me suspecting the pump, which is an Artis Model PDS3B-130-1260E. Thinking a bad check valve, or diaphragm problem.

We are under warranty, but we are fulltimers with a cat, and going into an RV dealership for repairs is possible, but not easy.

Any thoughts on diagnosis? And on repair options that might be reimbursable (parts), but not require a dealership schedule and visit?

I'mdonewiththis forum · October 20, 2016

The first thing I would do is contact where you have the warranty work done and explain your situation. Sometimes you just need to talk to someone. You may be surprised at the outcome!

skp51443 · October 20, 2016

Grab a owner's manual for the pump, pull it out and try cleaning it. If cleaning doesn't work try a rebuild kit if you see something that is damaged, cheap enough to not fuss with the warranty unless you are really broke or love spending time fussing.

Add a particle filter between your fresh tank and the pump to screen out construction debris before they get to the pump's innards.

oldjohnt · October 20, 2016

When that's happened to me its been caused by EITHER a slight teeny tiny leak or loose fitting in the suction side to the water tank OR I had to clean the pump head where I found a tiny speck of foreign material.

John T

Kirk W · October 21, 2016

The pump turns off due to a pressure switch on the outlet of the pump that measures the pressure in the water line. If the pump doesn't turn off after all water use stops, there is either some means of pressure loss or there is a bad switch. If the switch isn't opening you should be able to hear increased noise from the pump as pressure builds up. Most pumps can get very loud if pressure gets really high and there is always a possibility of that causing a water line failure.

The other possibility is a loss of pressure somewhere and while a leak is one of the most common ways for that to happen, there are several others as well. Most RV water pumps are designed to act as a check valve and those can leak back pressure to the tank, but typically when that happens the pump chatters on and off, rather than running constantly. A few pumps have a separate check valve that could fail, but even then the pump would usually at least pause when pressure was high.

If your RV is one with a "tank fill" valve that allows you to fill the water tank from the city water connection that supplies the RV when connected, that line can cause the water pump to run constantly if the valve is open when water is not connected and the water pump is in use. In this situation, the pump draws water from the fresh water tank, it then discharges that water into the supply lines to the RV and travels up to the area where the tank fill valve is located and then pass through that open valve back into the top of the fresh water tank. If the valve is completely open it will cause the pump to run constantly as long as it is turned on. If that valve were to leak just a little, it could cause the pump to cycle on and off, depending upon how much it was leaking. It may be worth taking a look at that valve if your RV has one.

lenp · October 21, 2016

Agree with others but also ensure all the airis flushed out of ALL the lines? Washer, shower, outside shower, etc. when I first fill my rig after winter, there is lots of air in the lines and it takes several minutes to bleed it all off one faucet at a time AND running a load of wash.

Lenp

oldjohnt · October 21, 2016

Yo Kirk, your post reminds me last year we were at a huge gathering of RV's (Florida Flywheelers Tractor Show) when an elderly couple came to me saying their fresh water pump kept running and asked me to take a "look see". I looked and sure enough where their female city water hose inlet was located there was water leaking out. Sooooooooo not having a check valve handy and wanting to get them going, I simply inserted a plastic capped off (closed) male 3/4 hose end there which stopped the leaky check valve problem and their fresh water demand pump was able to shut off THEY WERE SO HAPPY AND RELIEVED. Then believe it or not, this happened to a second couple but I was out of plugs but they had one of those Y hose adapters which I inserted with the valves closed off and they were good to go. Its fun to help people and I told them once home have that leaky check valve repaired or replaced. I have seen them with a piece of dirt/grit that prevented full closure which flushing and pushing/cycling in and out a few times made them reseal just fine.

Best wishes and God Bless yall

John T

hemsteadc · October 21, 2016

My pump just started doing that. Replaced the pressure switch (the part that senses pressure) and all is good.

We are under warranty, but we are fulltimers with a cat, and going into an RV dealership for repairs is possible, but not easy.

I hear that. A cat can add a lot of complexity to things!

Kirk W · October 21, 2016

Yo Kirk, your post reminds me last year we were at a huge gathering of RV's (Florida Flywheelers Tractor Show) when an elderly couple came to me saying their fresh water pump kept running and asked me to take a "look see". I looked and sure enough where their female city water hose inlet was located there was water leaking out.

For just that reason, this is what I use to keep dirt and such out of our city water connection.

41lVwUKhzuL._AC_US160_.jpg

mscans · November 10, 2016

We have a new Open Range 5W. The water pump will run anywhere from 15 seconds after water usage, up to several minutes or not quitting at all till we turn it off. I've inspected for water leaks wherever I can see - in the water distribution, water heater area - appears dry. I also drilled a couple of half inch holes in the bottom shielding at the lowest places to see if there was any water collecting in the under area. Also dry, and resealed that with a strong tape.

This is leaving me suspecting the pump, which is an Artis Model PDS3B-130-1260E. Thinking a bad check valve, or diaphragm problem.

We are under warranty, but we are fulltimers with a cat, and going into an RV dealership for repairs is possible, but not easy.

Any thoughts on diagnosis? And on repair options that might be reimbursable (parts), but not require a dealership schedule and visit?

If the unit is that new, return to the dealer and point at the pump and say" Is broke, you fix!". if it is all yours you are probably going to get ready for a rebuild. Realistically it is probably some "junk" from the original construction stuck in a valve or diaphragm preventing it from closing properly. If the pump has an inlet filter, remove/repair/replace the pump and then clean the filter. If it has no filter screen get and install one. Good luck.

Jimalberta · November 10, 2016

A new shure flo 3 gpm water pump is $90 here in Quartzsite. Dont bother trying to rebuild an old pump. For that price I will carry 2 ...one for a spare as they invariably fail when the wife is in the shower all soaped up and you are boondocking 50 miles from the closest town.

I can change my pump in 15 minutes. Maybe 10 depending on how hard my wife is screaming....lol