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Xantrex Freedom 458 not working when power absent


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I have this unit in my Teton and it is factory. I did add my fridge to subpanel only change I have made. Just pulled wire from main panel and down to sub after adding breaker. Simple. It worked. Yesterday we had bad storms here and lost power for hours. Inverter didn't kick in. Had no 110 on 12 volts in Teton. The remote still showed idle like it does when power is present. Had noticed when I towed to Livingston from Convent that fridge showed power lost and ice cream soft. Previously it had been working. What do ya'll recommend I try or time to upgrade? The inverter shows standby now also. Couldn't check it during storm. Bad one.

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Not considering the levels.. just the button led's.. you shouldn't be showing anything other than invert-blinking/solid green and charge-blinking/off. Everything else should be off as well and no red's at all..

 

It sounds like that is what you are saying.. so that would tend to make me think you might have a problem with the internal transfer switch (not closing when AC current is no longer applied).

 

You could shut down the inverter and rapidly apply and then cut 120v to your rig (all loads should be off) a couple of times and see if it will work the circuit loose so that it will close properly when 120v is off. Easiest to do by just throwing the main bus breakers on and off.

 

Alternately.. If you feel comfortable identifying the insides you could remove the inverter casing and give the transfer switch a good rap (like with the handle of a screwdriver) to see if it will close. (No.. I'm not kidding. When they begin to fail sometimes a good rap will help the internal mechanism to return to it's unpowered state [closed])

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Makes sense. From everything I have been reading it is normal lights now. On remote and unit. Question about remote setting. I can go in setup mode and raise or lower DC amps via invert button. What should I set this on? It was set on <10.

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Makes sense. From everything I have been reading it is normal lights now. On remote and unit. Question about remote setting. I can go in setup mode and raise or lower DC amps via invert button. What should I set this on? It was set on <10.

 

You're correct. Sounds like normal function, but it's just not picking up the load (transfer switch isn't closing) when shore power is off like it should.

 

<10 is the default and I would leave it there.

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Be aware.. even if you can get the transfer switch to throw it's "likely" to happen again. It's not a given. It might perform normally for awhile, but eventually it will repeat itself. If it's under warranty, I would have it serviced. If not, then you'll have to decide between paying for a repair or going with a new inverter/charger. If you can "baby" it along a while longer though at least that would give you some time to collect your penny's. ;)

 

One thing you "can" do to lessen the wear on your switch is to only turn on your inverter when needed and after shore power has been disconnected. When going back on shore power.. reverse the process. Turn off the inverter 'then' plug into shore power.

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Yea, I been leaving it on. I started out shutting it off and DW didn't like loosing TV when power went out. So it got left on. Again that old saying If mama not happy.... Looks as though I need to shop for an upgrade. So what popular now? Mine is 2500 watt. I have 4 batteries though just marine grade. Know the Magnum was.

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Be aware.. even if you can get the transfer switch to throw it's "likely" to happen again. It's not a given. It might perform normally for awhile, but eventually it will repeat itself. If it's under warranty, I would have it serviced.

 

Several years ago our Xantrex Freedom began experiencing occasional failure modes. In our case they were related to the charger failing to charge the batteries. We were able to limp along for a couple of months by doing a full reset which involved disconnecting battery cables from the inverter for a few minutes and then reconnecting them. After a while we decided to replace the then 12 year old unit with a Magnum MS2800. It's a pretty straightforward replacement and the Magnum remote panel even connects to the same wire as did the Xantrex remote which simplifies installation.

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Glen - sounds like you messed with the buttons and put it in search mode. I have the same unit and panel (458 and Link 1000), blinking is search. Depending on the fridge, in search you are not supplying power to the panel all the time, so that is not working right, and controls are 'wonky'.

 

Wonky being - with 'old' simple controls, fridge gets warm, thermostat closes, motor load is 'seen' and inverter comes on. With the new fancy controls, power is on all the time, thermisters are sensing temp all the time, and pulling in relays or vfd drives and running the compressor.

 

Your current setup - search pulses looking for a load of greater than 'x (10w? or whatever you set)' and not finding a load, does not invert. Your fridge is getting the power pulse, starting to power up, and the pulse is gone without 'finding' a load.

 

Think of it as an airport revolving light. As it sweeps past you, you see something, but before you can really see it, the light is gone.

 

Do you have the manual? If not, http://xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/Freedom458(445-0193-01-01_rev-2).pdf Look on page 8 Operation Status..

 

Looking for the setup - back later

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Well that I understand but you didn't offer any help with settings if that what it is. This is possible. That little control panel is very basic. When I hold down settings I can up invert dc amps. Nothing in my book tells me what to set this on. It will only go to 100, I played with it. I was told to leave on <10 settings so I did.

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I've been wrong before, and don't own a Xantrex myself, but typical behavior on inverter in standby.. shore power off.. the transfer switch is closed and the unit is powered, constant load "on", 120v at minimal's and reacts immediately to load demands (which would include constant control board requirements on a residential). I'm not familiar with "strobe" type probing from an inverter.

 

There may be some delay on a Xanny from shore power to inverter supply (could be 5 to 10 seconds delay), but that shouldn't be interfering with a current demand once the inverter is supplying an "active" current.

 

Again though.. with modern day advances I guess it might be 'possible' that this behavior might have an effect on your inverters behavior.. but I have have no knowledge of that first hand or otherwise and can't relate to "how" that behavior might be of any advantage.

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Yes it is Glenn - The manual that you will need to refer to is - http://xantrex.com/documents/Discontinued-Products/Link1000_OwnerGuide(975-0084-01-01_Rev-A).pdf - Print it - mine is in a folder by the Link.

 

page 20 - How to Enter Setup Mode and Change a Value You must be in Setup mode to change settings. To enter Setup mode and change a value: 1. Press and hold SET until SEL appears in the display (about three seconds). This puts you in Setup mode. 2. Press SEL until you reach the function you want. 3. Once you have selected the function you want, hold or repeatedly press SET to change the value

 

Page 28 - Changing the Idle Mode Setting The Idle mode setting determines the size of AC load that is needed to wake the inverter from its Idle (or standby) mode. The settings are 0 W, 4 W, 6 W, and 15 W. The default is 4 W. If you set the Idle mode to 0 W, Idle mode is actually defeated and the inverter stays on all the time. When the inverter is on, it draws approximately 0.5 amps. This setting is useful if you want to ensure uninterrupted power to a very small load like an electric clock. The other three settings let you conserve battery power because the inverter stays off until an adequate-sized load brings the inverter out of Idle mode. To change the Idle mode setting:
1. Press and hold SET until SEL appears. 2. Press the INVERT/IDLE MODE button. The present value appears. 3. Press and hold SET until the display scrolls through the other values. 4. Release SET when the value you want appears.
Note: The INVERT button LED must be on before you can change the Idle mode setting.

By setting to 0W, it is always on. Try it while your in the park and see what happens. It should just click and take over the power supply (120 volt) to the fridge. Open the door and see.

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Try a reset, remove both the AC (Circuit Breaker) for safety and disconnect the black lead to the unit. It is the 12Vdc that controls it. You can also disconnect the cable going to the panel from the Xantrex.

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Well I turned off breaker on pedestal at park. Removed wires. All lights out. Hooked all back up, reset controller and it hummed like it working but no 110 in camper. Beat on it with palm of hand. Never did get 110. Kitchen and entertainment on inverter. So just turned inverter off with remote. It charging fine.

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Not considering the levels.. just the button led's.. you shouldn't be showing anything other than invert-blinking/solid green and charge-blinking/off. Everything else should be off as well and no red's at all..

 

It sounds like that is what you are saying.. so that would tend to make me think you might have a problem with the internal transfer switch (not closing when AC current is no longer applied).

 

You could shut down the inverter and rapidly apply and then cut 120v to your rig (all loads should be off) a couple of times and see if it will work the circuit loose so that it will close properly when 120v is off. Easiest to do by just throwing the main bus breakers on and off.

 

Alternately.. If you feel comfortable identifying the insides you could remove the inverter casing and give the transfer switch a good rap (like with the handle of a screwdriver) to see if it will close. (No.. I'm not kidding. When they begin to fail sometimes a good rap will help the internal mechanism to return to it's unpowered state [closed])

Sounds right to me! My transfer switch stuck once, did the same thing. I rapped the cover with my fist and it engaged properly. Never has stuck since.

I was told what causes this is switching under load burns the contacts.

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