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How many store their RV's in a shop/garage? We're considering having one installed on our property and having a connection for sewer added while that's being put in for the house. Looks like a 14' high door is pretty much standard, but wonder about when hooked to the truck (likely going to get a Montana 2955).

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Be sure you get the door wide enough. Ten feet is pretty tight, even 12' is tight. If I were doing mine over I'd make the door 14'x14'. (Mine is 14x10). Consider having a trench that can be covered up with something so you can change oil. I know you have a 5er but if you want to sell it the next guy may have a motor home.

 

WDR

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We park our 5er and HDT in our attached garage. We have full hookups there also. It has made loading and unloading a lot easier. The garage is also big enough for our car and a work area. We built the house and garage and added infloor radiant heat and an evaporative cooler in the garage along with insulation. The garage is just over 2000 sqft. We moved here from a mountain community and we would like to move back but I love the garage and my DW loves the convenience. We may just have to stay here.

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I am in the process of building a garage to store my RV on my property. We have been talking about doing it for a while, but finally decided to pull the trigger. I haven't finalized the design yet, but I plan to have two roll up doors a minimum of a 12' wide by 14' high. I would prefer 14' x 16' doors, but it will depend on other factors. I will also have one regular walk in door. I have not decided about windows yet. I am shooting for a 40' wide by 50' deep building, but am considering going 70' deep if I can get it done for a reasonable price. I may be storing my buddies RV and boat along with my 5er and HDT, so the extra depth will be nice. It will all come down to what I can get done within my set budget. I am currently working on the pad and waiting on prices on materials. I am looking at both metal and wood building materials and again it will come down to my budget as the determining factor on what I use. I don't plan to have water or sewer at the building, but I will have power. I have holding tanks if I need to use the 5er as a guest home, so sewer is not a priority. Plus my septic system is on the other side of my property so it would require a second system if I wanted sewer capability.

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. We moved here from a mountain community and we would like to move back but I love the garage and my DW loves the convenience. We may just have to stay here.

Wondering where "here" might be? It sounds as though your home may be pretty similar to ours. :)

 

I do agree with the thought about the width of door. With an RV often being 102" wide, that would make a typical 10' door pretty tight to back into. As you plan it is important to also note that door prices rise quickly with additional widths so it is usually a balance between extra width and budgets.

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I rent space in a steel tractor shed. When it comes to door widths you guys might consider sliding doors as opposed to overhead. The hanging sliders where I store are fairly easy to open, about 18 feet high and give a 20 foot plus width to work with. They used to run a combine in there in the winter.

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We put in a 32x50 ft. metal pole barn on our property in Wi. The RV side has a 12 ft. wide door which is tight with the mirrors of our class A MH. I would do 14 ft. wide next time. Also 14 ft height is a must as our RV height to the tallest point was near 13 ft. The 50 ft length worked well. The other half of the pole barn has a 16 ft wide door. I have room for all the toys & a shop area. That side is large enough to park 4 cars in there but I only have two. The roof was insulated and I can do the side walls myself if I want to. At the top of each sidewall is a clear panel that runs the entire length of the wall letting in light. All in all, it sure protects the RV from the wear & tear of the outdoors. I would recommend it to anyone. Dave.

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I parked outside so my solar panels meant I didn't need a trickle charger. If your under roof space has a decent electrical connection that would be less of a concern. We did have to brush snow off the panels a couple of times, though.

 

Linda Sand

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Wondering where "here" might be? It sounds as though your home may be pretty similar to ours. :)

 

I do agree with the thought about the width of door. With an RV often being 102" wide, that would make a typical 10' door pretty tight to back into. As you plan it is important to also note that door prices rise quickly with additional widths so it is usually a balance between extra width and budgets.

 

We are in Western Colorado near Grand Junction on 35 acres.

 

Our door is 13' tall and 12' wide. The 5er clears the height by 1/2". If the spring is not kept tight the AC cover needs repair. Don't ask how I know. I would go 14' x 14' if I were to do it again.

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How many store their RV's in a shop/garage? We're considering having one installed on our property and having a connection for sewer added while that's being put in for the house. Looks like a 14' high door is pretty much standard, but wonder about when hooked to the truck (likely going to get a Montana 2955).

If you store inside and have a generator, make sure it is not on AutoStart to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning and if diesel, soot damage.

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