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no water in water heater tank


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Hello if you've followed my followfollowed my prior post there was coolant.. Coolant everywhere you know I've been having a hell of a time with this rv. well wewe finally got to Florida and soon discovered we had bad water lines. With the help of some park members we out a shark bite on the bad lines but in town by passed and deleted water to the holding tank.


Now though we have a new issue and that is we can't get any water to our water heater tank. I'veheater opened all the valves and still no water seems to be going in.


I don't even know where to start. It's a 91 allegro bay with an Atwood water heater

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You may have a bad check valve that will not allow water out of the tank. Open the relief valve on the out side of the camper real slow just to see if there is ant water or air coming out. that would show there is water going in.

note where the check valve is on Kirk's post.





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Back in the day your rig was built they sometimes put a check valve on the cold inlet side as well or instead. If you have one on the cold side it may be bad. Now you have several things to check. Come back and let us know what you find.

2000 Volvo 770, 500HP/1650FP Cummins N14 and 10 Speed Autoshift 3.58 Rear 202" WB, 2002 Teton Aspen Royal 43 Foot, Burgman 650 Scooter

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a similar problem. I "winterize" this 2008 Work and Play 34 FK several times a season when I leave it and return. Lately, when I hook up city water to the coach, put the hot water heater bypass valves as pictured above, water will flow from the HW faucets, but then suddenly shut off. Depressurizing the HW tank then slowly allowing water to flow thru the HW system will solve the problem. I didn't know there was a check valve at the outlet side of the HW heater, which is probably going bad. This park by the way has relatively high pressure, probably 50+ psi, which may trigger the check valve more easily.

My question is what is the purpose of the check valve? To prevent some type of contamination? If it is needed, a recommendation for a replacement higher quality valve would be appreciated.


Jeff Beyer temporarily retired from Trailer Transit
2000 Freightliner Argosy Cabover
2008 Work and Play 34FK
Homebase NW Indiana, no longer full time

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The purpose of the check valve is to prevent back flow from the cold water line when the water heater inlet valve is closed and the bypass is open. One way to eliminate future check valve problems is to replace it with a standard manual valve like the others, turning a "two valve" bypass setup into a "three valve" setup. Yeah, I know the check valve is also a "valve", but that's the way the industry counts them for bypass purposes. Only the manual valves count. :)

2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F-53 Chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/brake system

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Adding to what Dutch said, the check valves were first put into the cold water supply but by moving the to the hot water outlet it means you don't need the stop valve for the water heater bypass on the hot water side so eliminates a valve. Either side will prevent water backflow.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure



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Yup, manual valves are the way to go. My fiver came with a 3 manual valve system. One look and I can see how I'm configured.


As far as the OP, one way to be SURE there is or is not water going INTO the tank is to shut off the pressure, remove the drain plug on the outside, drain any water that's in there, and then turn on the pressure. If there's water coming into the heater you'll see it come out of the drain hole.

Previously a 2017 Forest River, Berkshire 38A, "The Dragonship". https://dragonship.blog/

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