Wrknrvr

I would suggest using the strongest plywood you can find. I am thinking that is you measure the amount of dip you have in the floor as it sits there. Fairly accurately. Then put a Jack with a piece os 2x4 on top of it, cut at the correct length, up against the floor. What we want to see is if the existing floor will flex back into place. Even a little. Without lifting the interior slide lip. I am thinking you could get a 4x4 piece of your plywood, for a test. You should get a countersink bit kit. That will allow the drywall screws to be counter sunk in the plywood when the job is finished. You must not have one screw penetration on the bottom of the slide. With your new piece of plywood, you could center it in the slide-out. Then with the floor supported from underneath, in the middle, the new 4’x4’ plywood with counter sunk holes say drilled ever 4” apart. Now try attaching the plywood to the existing floor. This is for a test. I have done such work to see how things are going to solve the problem. Adjusting the drill driver to only put a small amount of torque on the dry wall screws to start with. Full torque could strip the original floor out. Testing to see how things work, hopefully will give a good idea how to move forward with the project. Working from the front and back of the floor, hopefully will pull the original floor up to the top plywood as the screws are installed. This is a learning test. More thinking to follow?

I believe putting attachments under the slide would not allow the slide to retract. I will say I have seen slides on Prevost conversions and other high end motor coaches, come up and over the interior floor. But that whole mechanical system is built to do that. I believe a trip to a hardware store to test plywood, could be a learning experience. Get a piece of finish grade birch plywood out and lay it so it is supported on both ends. Then push on the middle for flexibility. Your with is 32” I think , so support it at those distances. Then get other types of plywood out and do the same test. See if you can detect a difference in the stiffness of the plywood. My thinking cannot remember the tool that puts wood wafers in wood joints. I will check and get back to you on your subject. But I use the biscuit cutter and biscuits when joint joints in wood. Apparently I thought of breakfast biscuits for the last sentence. If any screws are used to attach anything from above the floor. They cannot be long enough to penetrate the lower side of the floor.

I am thinking you should adjust the slide so the exterior seals fit correctly. Then work on insulation of the plywood.

So two peas make a pod. Now we are getting some where. I am thinking to front edge could be beveled down just a tad. Will think about it today. Will try to post some angle thoughts on paper and post a picture in the morning. Thinking??? Home Depot should have Birch plywood in 4x8 sheets. Lowe’s May have them also that are furniture grade. Will be on higher end price range?

I would suggest to put the full sheet length in the slide floor, in the middle. Then put smaller pieces at each end. If you cannot get a long enough plywood sheet. A 4” grinder with course sand paper could be used to make the curved edge. To do it correctly, would be to remove the old floor material? And replace it with high quality ply wood. There I said it. Although that would be more exercise in, patients, thoughts and choices of woods. Yes I did it before. One time I removed everything from a bedroom slide? All I had let in place was the original roof, the ceiling fabric and the fiberglass wall panels not the exterior. When you are done with the floor? Then you may want to readjust the floor so when the slide is in, that the exterior seal fits properly.

Think about putting 5/8” furniture grade plywood on top of the whole slide floor. Use drywall screws to pull the lower floor up in place. There needs to be holes drilled in the upper plywood for the screws to go through. This needs done before the plywood is layer down the final time. It the saw dust will keep the lower floor pull up against the upper floor. Do not put a joint over the center dip. Just a thought.

I suggest that you check with the county , state and local ordinances. The idea of a septic holding tank can work. Water storage can work. Making sure the water is safe will need to be addressed. I know of a campground in Montana that has about 120 full sites. One day I was there and noticed a sewer pumping truck come in. I asked about it. What is he doing. I was told that they have holding tanks. To close to the lake. The county allows the waste to be delivered to there treatment plant.

I would suggest to look under the slide front lip area. Or from the outside when the slide is out. I can see there is something rubbing the nylon support as the slide comes in. POSSIBLY a bug staple. Or more like a screw head, that has backed out. They may put two pieces of wood floor material together.

This is a test for how you can post a picture on this forum. I sent a pm to you to get you started. The part I had to check on, was do not include the img and parentheses on both ends. Hopefully this helps.

Is both sides of the slide seal, against the wall the same when it is extended. Also, with the slide in say 8”, take a mirror, put it on the floor and with a flashlight, try to look for something that is causing the problem. Pictures are needed?

First thing is I am glade you figured out the heating element question? I do remember about a rebuild kit was available. I think I did one years ago. But that is foggy in my mind. A few years ago mine had a very small leak. I just replaced it. Although I still have the old one. For some reason. If you do rebuild it. I would suggest that after you get it apart, to use vinegar to remove the stains on the parts. Normally the white stain is calcium deposits. Reddish brown would be iron. Using vinegar will not harm any sealing surfaces. It will probably take numerous applications of vinegar, but is the safest way to do it. Using any mechanical way may hurt the sealing surfaces. Hope these thoughts help.

Remember where yo stashed it?

I am curious? Could we get a picture of your starter? And a picture of the fuse that is involved.

Spraying sealing materials on the slideout side walls could cause seal problems. I never heard of anyone doing that. That needs some thoughts about doing that

There two types of resealing a roof could mean, at least to me. One is to remove the existing sealant around the vents, edge lines of roof materials and other such protruding objects. Clean with appropriate cleaner. Fix any problems that are found. Then applying appropriate new sealer, as needed. This is on the roof. Next is inspection of all other seals on the rv. Do as it needs done on the roof. Spraying the roof is a separate subject in its self. Is it needed? That is not my call. But I have work on Rv’s for a living since 2008. I have resealed a number of roofs in that time. I have only seen a few roofs that I would say really needed to be sprayed with a total covering. What I really see is that people do not have there roofs inspected once every year. I do recommend that if you get a roof inspected. Try and get it done once a year. Years ago I had a remote camera that the customer could see what I was talking about. In real time. I still do some work. Last fall I was called to winterize a Rv. He also said the the roof vent is broken. Can you fix it. I installed a new vent lid. While I was first on the roof to look at what vent cover I needed, I noticed his roof had several problems on the seal areas. One place I seen a gap a pencil eraser would fit in. I texted him pictures of his problems? Suggest they need fixed. He agreed and I did the work.

There was a plow went by on US highway 93 about 5:40 this am? The traffic light is now operational. Maybe 12 vehicles went by so far. We should be on US highway near Wickenburg Az, if we were in our normal thoughts? Or normal mind? Our decision to stay this winter?

We are near Somers Montana. Blizzard watch or something like that was posted yesterday on the news? I took over the night watch at 1:17 this am. I can see US highway 93 from our lot. I have not seen a vehicle since I took over the night watch? The traffic light is staying on red? I do not see snow much on one side of the RV. But it is apparently all on the other side? Pictures will follow. Time is 4:49 now. 1 degrees outside with 10 mph wind. I made sure the generator ran yesterday? That it has gas to run on. We still have electricity. So that is good? But it will be in the 30’s this weekend. Enjoy where you are?

If you are still having trouble with the way it is acting? Did you clean the base the the igniter sits on? Those screws and the contact surface is how the flame sense completes the ground loop for the pc board to sense the flame is burning?

The studs you are showing do need cleaned. I am also thinking there is a heat actuated device on the starter??? To keep from over heating the starter. As in you keep cranking the engine for more than it should. That could be bad? You could have more than one thing being causing the problem? Check the net for Wilson rebuilt starter for your truck. You could maybe give them a call, and ask for a specific wiring diagram for your truck? That could be a long shot, but when your desperate, anything that helps is welcomed. Is there anything on the HDT forum about the wiring diagram. It maybe on Mark Bruss site? Does the on board diagnostics say anything?

Years ago on this forum I think there was a replacement that was gear drive, for truck engine. I think they were Densco? But I did find this for Volvo truck engines. BBB Part Number: 137179-05760189

The file for the photo is to big to copy and paste. I did state I am not a computer person? At all search for Delco 39 Mt starter I just searched this on google. It shows a starter with a solenoid and a relay on top of it. I have never seen one of these.

I tried to paste a picture of a starter. It did not work. I am not a real computer person, so I sent it out to be displayed, by a smarter person than me.

Maybe not call the shop until after looking yourself. It would only take a minute or threee to look at the board. Just thinking