Wrknrvr

3:43 am in Kalispell Montana. temperature with windchill? -36 Staying warm, but 6 minutes outside doing things, gets old really quick. Last winter we were is the mountains of South Carolina, one morning with windchill at -25. So not much different. Enjoy being in the warmth. If you can find some.

While your at it. I would suggest to put a new igniter in the furnace.

Where did you get your last propane fill. If it was in the south, then can mix butane in with Propane. Are you in cold weather. Below 33 degrees. If it has burned all the LP off, it will act like it has been. LP will supply gas at below -40 degrees. Butane will not provide enough vapor to operate below 33 degrees, I think that’s the temperature point. Now if the fuel supply is good? Then I think there is a ground problem where the flame sense is. It senses a very small amount of dc voltage through to flame to ground, as it is burning. Any time I pull a Suburban furnace out to check things. I remove the burner assembly in the burn chamber. They are stainless steel screws, but what you are describing, I would bet that is the problem. It is best to use a crows foot wrench to take the supply tube loose. Remove the burner assembly, and the mounting bracket. Sand or file all contact surfaces. Then reassemble unit. Maybe youtube it.

The other picture had 240 vac on it. thanks for the new one. I may be confused, or was.

Without a diagram I cannot follow along. I am busy the rest of the day with weather and medical appointment. Will check tonight

From far away, my question is? in your picture of the control board, there is a red and I think brown wire on terminals. They are in the middle of the control board. There is a drawing that shows they both should test positive. So to me that means there is positive power going out to something? Possibly a safety device? I think it needs to pass 12vdc positive power back to the control board. That could be why there is nothing working on the unit. Just thinking

I want to say that I have voltage issue on my HDT truck and the truck mounted generator. There is a voltage issue with the dash start switch to the generator. It is about 10’ from switch to generator. The voltage drops enough somewhere in the start system, that it makes the solenoid click and the starter grunts. Low voltage issue. But if you use the switch on the generator, it starts. With winter weather in Montana now I am not worrying about the cab start switch at this time. 1970 vintage welder / generator. Restored it about 6 years ago

My next suggestion is to hold the volt meter on the positive and negative incoming power leads. You must have power there. When the unit is turned on there must be a voltage reading like 12.2? I am saying that to have a good voltage to work with. That must be. If the voltage drops off, then there could be a supply issue. Pm me with a serial number and model of the fridge. I am busy as Friday night I may be in -40 degrees weather. No comment on that subject.

If I was there on a service call, I would replace the fuse with a new one. A few weeks ago I had a low amp fuse that tested good and past voltage. But would not pass amperage. That’s confusing isn’t it. Put a new fuse in and the Schwintec slides worked. After sometime spent checking the system for the normal things. Also I see the battery is not connected. That could be a problem. I have seen that cause odd problems at times in control devices.???

I would suggest to put everything back to where it was. Even eliminate they extra battery. See if things work as before. If not trace where the problem is. We need a baseline starting point. That is working.

Could give up 2” of space on the interior of the doors. I was thinking you rear was a door as is tilting down. Now that I see them both opening, that gives other thoughts. This is a temperature sensing photo from our freezer compartment with the door open. Green, yellow and blue are cold colors, red is room temperature. If you could give up 2” on the interior of the doors, that would solve, say 25 percent of your problem? That is just a guess. I think that if there is no air leakage, leaving cold moist air in,? The greater problem could be the cold transferring through the aluminum door frame, door hinge bolts to a much smaller degree and any metal that could transfer cold into the interior. If you could give up 2” on the interior of the doors, insulate them with styrofoam, cover with Formica, that would give a strong covering or it looks like there is Fillon on the original doors. That word is probably misspelled. Or not the correct word. Just some thinking. If you could take a temperature sensing photo of the area, that may help understand where the problem is.

Couple questions need addressed. Is there moisture on the interior of the doors when closed and sitting for for a few days. This is probably dependent on outside temperature and outside humidity level. Also is the moisture on just the metal, or is it on the panel also. This can also be determined by inside temperatures also. I use a inferred thermometer for this test. If it gets real technical, then good restaurant thermometer needs to be used. How good are the seals on the doors. When I became a Dometic dealer, I found out about the bill test. When the doors are closed, does the seal grip a paper bill. All areas need checked. On the heat pump grill, does it have intake and exhaust. That could give a idea for use. Thinking about that. If you look for gutter heaters, or something like that they do make heat strips to keep gutters from freezing. I use one that was left over from a old business I had years ago for my water line. This needs some thinking on how to use one if needed. I was thinking one of the heat strips could be hidden under metal conduit for electrical wiring. Not under the door frame. They use low wattage for the system per foot. I am thinking, could that idea be installed on the inside of the aluminum door frame. You would see it. It just paint it to match. On the idea of heat strips, they can be made to the required length. The other question is, can the lower floor aluminum piece that the Ramps lay on, be removed separately from the sides. Just thinking of simple ideas to help with the situation. Vern

We could use a picture of the interior , showing the air intake for the mini split. I have a idea, but i need a picture for future thoughts.

On your inner tube idea, never thought or heard about that before, but that is interesting. If you had say 1 1/2” or 2” styrofoam sheet to put between the underbelly and the tubes, that would help. While you’re thinking of insulating the door, I think if there is still moisture inside of the door. Coming in somewhere, As in enough to add moisture to condense? You still may be adding to the rotted floor. If you get a chance, could we see a picture of the rear door. Is the moisture on the door itself, or is the moisture on the door frame. Or both. If it is on the door frame, could a heat strip be added, to control moisture. On residential refrigerators, there is a built in heating strip where the doors seal? To control moisture. Trying to cover different thoughts. Still working on my moisture situation in the bedroom slide. In 24 hrs the corner has risen 9 degrees. And the moisture seems to be clearing up. But time will tell.

This is just a thought. If your existing door is good, as in structurally sound. Glue 1 1/2” good quality insulation to the outside. There are 4’ x8’ panels of gel coated fiberglass available. Adhere that to the insulation. Then continue the fiberglass out past the door seals. I am thinking of how a pickup bed cover seals to the bed. Have the edge sealed to the existing wall panel. That would take some thinking how to accomplish it. But I think it could be done. I took a fiberglass truck cover, that had a problem on a corner, cut it into pieces and made a cover for my generator. Just thinking, Vern

Do you heat that area. Is there any air infiltration around the door. With just a small air leak coming into the heated, moist air can cause condensation on a cold surface. I have corner of a bedroom slide that had a moisture problem back in 2016. So I fixed what I thought was the water leak. I do inspect my roof twice a year. Well last winter in South Carolina, that moisture appeared again. Not much, still there. It was cold and damp in South Carolina last winter. It dried out over the summer. But it has been back for sometime since it got cold in Montana. I made sure that the roof of the slide does not have a leak. Installed a leakproof cover over the slide. Still getting damp. One day when it was cold and raining out side, I noticed moisture running down from the window frame on the interior at that corner. Yesterday I wrapped the corner of the slide with 1” of foam wrap. And 1 1/2” foam insulation under that corner. This is for a test, to see if the interior corner is cold enough to draw moisture out of the air. I am thinking what you could do to solve your situation. Others must have experienced this also. Vern

Today it is 2 years since I have had a treatment from a Ophthalmologist for my eyes. My next appointment for a checkup is February 28. Unless I have a problem. I also have reduced my willow bark extract intake to only one capsule a week. This reduction of willow bark extract started two months ago. I have seen no difference in my vision. My prescription glasses are still needed. Will keep informed, Vern

Did ever see someone trying to back a truck & trailer in a truck stop parking lot. And must be thinking of something else.

Single wheels. Heck I carry 4 sets of wheel bearings. Just Incase I ever would need them. Had them for15 years. Hope I can find them, when needed. Do not forget putting vegetable oil in the fuel tanks. Yep, I have had a lot of comments on that subject also.

That looks like a directional valve? Not sure of the real name. It allows water to flow to different water lines. Most modern fifthwheels have one or more of those. Used as a water heater bypass. Or to fill the storage tank. That’s my guess. you can plumb in two shutoff valves to accomplish the same thing.

Let’s focus on this post, not the one I posted before If I remember correctly, the black wires are for 110 ac current. I just looked at the service documents, black is for 110 vac electrical operation. The red is for 12vdc gas operations. I am wondering if it is heating on gas. But you thought it was heating on electric. ok now I have black dots appearing. I must have pushed something wrong. Told you I do stupid stuff also. Black dot is gone. You need to look at the service documents.

I am thinking we should start a new discussion. Three lines left blank for blank words. So you say it operates fine on 110 volts alternating current. Yep new thread needs started. This one needs buried. Ok, ok I have done such. Stuff.

I am thinking about a different thought on this subject. On Suburban water heaters, that on and off switch that is shown in the picture above, can have a contact problem internally. And cause a water heater to not function. The switch can be stuck, as in it will not switch on and off. Also I have seen the terminal ends that connect to the switch go bad. They leave just enough wire to replace the end. So is it possible that the switch area problems could raise resistance, lower the voltage enough to raise the amperage going through that wire, to go up and cause a failure? That is a question?

I sent you a email. I just seen this post. I did explain how to check for a direct short somewhere. As probably a bad element. Will follow what you find.

So was this lp detector low on power because of the fuse not able to pass amperage? Or was it the detector bad? Or both? The wires did show full voltage when I had a meter on the wires. Unfortunately something like this happens and you fix it. I wish I had taken a photo of the fuse the first time I looked at it. I did not hear the old lp detector as it was already removed from the project. Also you are in the middle of trying to figure it out. The customer has to leave. So I hope you learned something from this situation i experienced..