Wrknrvr

I will post some thoughts tomorrow. I had a long day out in Montana weather, so sorta hard to stay awake.

I am thinking since the other headlights work, the fuse should not be the problem. I would check for voltage at the connector first. I have a connector fit on the bulb and be tight. But possibly the low beam power wire connector is not making contact on the spade connector on the head light. Since the high beam is working, that power and ground is good. They normally use the same ground. So if there is power on the low beam pin, then it is apparently not making contact with the spade terminal. The female spade terminal in the plug connector could just need to be reshaped to make good contact.

Do you have a volt meter. I know I asked before. But I cannot remember. Probably not a fuse problem. With a dc volt meter you could test and see if there is power to the connector. There could just be a connector problem. That is the plug end that goes on the light it self. Testing will give us directions to go to fix the problem.

How about some pictures of the outside of your fifthwheel to show the lower walls . Looking for a place to install a heating unit. If that is required.

There are two quick options to cure your problem. If you have propane in this rv. It could be possible to install a propane furnace in the basement, to heat the basement. Another option would be to install a heating loop system with heat exchangers. Motorhomes that have a hydronic heating system, uses this type of system to heat there underbelly. That could be electric/propane unit. I have installed a diesel/electrical Aquahot heating system in our 43’ Teton. And it came with two gas furnaces. I also extended several heating vent lines from the original furnaces. I also use a separate, outside Suburban propane furnace to heat under our fifthwheel when we stay in Montana for the winter. Some more info would be needed. But there are options to deal with this subject.

Just curious how your layout is under the main floor. Do you have propane for heat now. Also some layout plans for the underbelly would make thinking of this subject much more interesting.

What I really want to explain is that the website Google Scholar provides the opportunity to search for information on medical questions. My brother told me he was using a common, over the counter medication. So I searched on google scholar. I found that his medication has a synthetic opioid in it. If the dose is low enough, it can be sold over the counter, without a prescription. In the United States. without all the webs normal flooding you with where to buy what. Or not the best information there is available.

This website has only technical - medical information. From around the globe. it does not have any normal commercial subjects on this website. My wife just had cataract surgery on the right eye. They asked about medical and medication concerns. She did tell the about a possible problem with aspirin. so after surgery she had to put eye drops in her eye, for two weeks. About three days into the drops ,she said the one eye drop burns after she puts it in her eye, as told to do. So I looked up the medication on this website, And it contains aspirin as one of the substances in it. We call the doctors office. Told to change medication. So we did. Look this website up and search for what ever you are interested in. Rather interesting place to learn from.

There should be two blue wires from the furnace that goes to the ac control board. They are probably 18” long. So they should be easy to find. One of them should have 12 vdc power. If it does , just hold those two wire ends together. The furnace should start the fan blowing. And then ignition. If there is no power there. Then the furnace may not have 12vdc supply to it. After proving power is supplied to the furnace. I would start thinking the board is bad. There could be other odd things causing your problem. But we need more info to work with.

What does your thermostat look like. It is possible to reset the thermostat and it would work. If it is a newer model thermostat, there should be instructions to do the initiation at setup. That is also how to reset the thermostat. The more info we have the better we can help.

I may be late to this question. There could be one under the kitchen sink. There could be a filter in the fridge also.

I am wondering about driving with a window open. Or a vent open? Could that situation leave wind blow the flame out. What year is the unit. Also which side of the rv is the fridge on?

Possible tie rod ends are out of spec. That could be checked by measuring the front of the tire spacing, compared to the rear of the tire. I think that needs done when the vehicle is stopped and was going forward when stopped. Also with tires not having stress between them, feel if there is any loose play at the ends. If the passenger side tire is jacked up. You could test for play in the tie rod ends by wiggling the tire back and forth. While the tire is up in the air you could try wiggling the tire in and out at the top. Or prying on the bottom of the tire. That could show a wheel bearing. Or as Darryl said, king pins being a problem. If you think a tie rod end is bad , a few pumps of grease in one at a time, could prove your thinking’. Just some more thoughts?

One time I rebuilt a bedroom slide. I did the rebuild in place and was doing this job as a Mobile RV tech. The fifthwheel was really nice other than the bedroom slide. Once I removed all the rotted material, all that was left was the roof, ceiling and the three sides of fiberglass exterior panels. I did save pieces of different parts. Then I had the dimensions of what needed replaced. With taken very good dimensions before I started to take things apart, the slide did work as before. What caused this wood rot, was 4 screws on the roof to side wall trim strip leaked water. As I took the walls apart it was very apparent where the leaks came from. 2 screws leaked on each side. Also with the under side of the slide sealed, it contained the moisture in the floor. Look on the outside of the slide to see if any of the screws holding the trim on, have rust around them. They probably was a source of water for the problem. Vern Vern

Thanks for all the photos and information you have provided. The last time we were there was in 2012. Although I do watch what is going on there each year. We have decided to spend this winter in Montana. We do miss such gatherings.

Just a quick guess to look at. Is the burner itself. Where the propane comes out of several slots. Sometimes they sorta grow shut with deposits, or oxidation. I normally use a small 90 degree pick to clean the slots. One of those orange handle little picks with a point on it. If they need cleaning, normally the flame will be a little bigger when operating. Just be careful about doing the work.

Are the Finns at the top, back of the refrigerator ever thawed out. Or do they stay covered with ice

This is a crude test. But scientific. Water freezes at32 degrees all over the world. So another test to see if your thermistor is functioning properly is to get a cup to put water in. It should be plastic. Just in case it freezes solid. So fill the cup 3/4s full. Set it next to the fins in the refrigerator. There should only be ice the top of the water in the cup, occasionally. Say once every three days. If it freezes solid. Then the thermistor is not positioned properly. Or it is malfunctioning.

With the wiring diagram, m stands for what controls the temperature in the fridge. And the temperature in the freezer. I would not dig into the side of the fridge. You could find a wire, when it is too late. The use of the paper bill, should be used all around the doors opening. The fins on the back of the fridge should be free of ice occasionally. It should be free of ice say once in a few days. If it does that the temperature is about where it should be. If the fins never show just the metal , then it is not shutting off due to temperature control. The thermistor could be bad. Or just needs moved. If the thermistor is bad, or not registering, then the fridge will not stop cooling. Until it is fixed.

Sorry for not responding earlier. I was out replacing a skylight and resealing a roof. So the first thing I am wondering if the fridge is cycling on and off. As it should once it registers a set temperature. There should be a sensor somewhere. Kirk, could you post tea wiring schematics for this fridge. The next thing I would do is take a dollar bill. A five dollar bill will be too thick. Just kidding. With the bill between the frame of the fridge where the door seal , seals. And the door itself, a bill should not feel free. What you are looking for is a place for it to leak air into the refrigerator or freezer. Does this fridge have a heater in the frame where the door seals. That would be found by searching the wiring schematics. Just a quick guess is frost pushing it out of place. I will watch for more info on this subject. Vern

Are the filberts clean. Are the fins clean. Tell the Mobile rv tech to bring materials along to clean the fins. have the tech check if any duct work is leaking anywhere. Also check the temperature differences from room air to the conditioned air.

The thermostat may need the matching circuit board, to function properly. Check and see if that is your problem.

I was testing how to post a picture. In the HDT section there is a way to post a picture. So I have used that way of posting pictures on another forum. Today it will not work. So I tried it here, and it works. I am not a computer person, so it takes awhile to figure things out. That surely looks like a crack in a hub for a fifthwheel. But I was told different. So what is your thoughts. The steel that it is made of looks like it will not rust.

Do you see the crack

First simple thing is to change the 12vdc fuse that operates the fridge. While that fuse is out. Loosen the grounds to the refrigerator and retighten them, maybe 3 times. Then put the fuse back in the panel . Do you have a 12vdc meter. If not you need to get one.