Wrknrvr

Thanks Ray, For the Scwintec documents. They did help.

Let’s say this subject takes thinking glasses? Not so much seeing glasses? What the blank is thinking glasses. It is where you really need to think about what you are seeing. So on the subject of the positive wire, the meter told me so. And, I must state, it said the fuse was good( thinking glasses needed)? Yes those bare wires where a concern. But the meter said fuse is good? In that time period, I did remove the fuse and look at it. It is a 5 amp fuse and it did pass full voltage to the end of the wires. My meter told me so. And I looked at that fuse very carefully, I really did look at closely. There was just one spot that did not look 100 percent normal. But it would not take much to blow a 5 amp fuse. So I wired the new propane detector in. And it would not work. Now I just watched the customer get it out of the package it came in. Did I wire it backwards. Checked again and it was wired correct. What the blank is going on. I pulled the fuse again. Now it is blown, and it shows. So was that spot on the fuse that was looking just a tad not perfect, a problem. So was the fuse, having a problem passing amperage, not voltage, causing the old propane detector to set the alarm off every two minutes. The customer has left the area. But would be interesting to test the old propane detector. That is when I installed a new 5 amp fuse, and the propane detector started to work. And, Those slides both worked. I am not a fan of Scwintec slides attttt. Aaallll. Really irritating to go work on them. I never had a idea there is a separate controlling voltage for them. This could be just this rv in particular. Tech documents need to be searched. But I would think it may help someone to fix a scwintec for someone. I hope you learned something from this experience of mine. I also explained it to help be a learning experience . Thanks for everyone’s input. That shows you how things can be difficult to trace down the real problem. When you are just looking at it. And really need to be thinking about it.

Close if it was a snake, you need to go to emergency room ASAP

I was hoping that Kirk may have figured it out. Will check in later. I am trying to finish my skirting under our fifthwheel today. Once you ever experienced this situation, you will remember it. And it is hard to give a good explanation of how it can happen, until you see it in person.

That is a very question to learn from. By have the furnace fan operating, I could watch the voltage on the batteries, with a volt meter. The voltage dropped low enough, that the furnace would not ignite. On that thinking, It did point to either a battery problem, or a charging problem. I did solve the charging problem. But there is a hidden problem that I encountered in this diagnostics situation. I have seen it before. But this time I actually posted about the problem, but did not catch it until I read my post. (It is a hidden problem, just like when you use parentheses in a sentence). It is there. I am doing this to help future diagnostic problems be solved.

Can you find a very interesting electrical moment in this project. I did not pick this up until I read the post on line. And it shows a very interesting subject during diagnostics on electrical problems? it is there, just takes some thinking?

Yesterday I had another phone call with the customer with the two slides stuck out.... So this customer is a rancher from California. Very full of energy and really trying to understand what is going on. I can tell he does hands on mechanical stuff. But I think he is short on understanding electrical stuff. I really mean he is short on understanding electrical stufffff. I told him I was there for many years. So the first thing I did was check the 12 vdc batteries for state of charge.12.6. Unit is plugged in. Or so we think it is. So I say turn the furnace on. Furnace blower comes on the cycles off. Voltage dropped too low for furnace to operate.??? Motorhome is plugged in to shore power. I have the customer turn on his generator. It starts and runs. Then the batteries start to charge at the rate they should. Plug adapter from 30 to 15 amp is inspected. Very small burn spot on the hot leg on adapter. File it clean, and twist the terminals just a tad. Plug it back in. Batteries are now charging. Feeling better. But his two scwintec slides still will not operate. Customer tried to reset them. And the 30 amp fuse tested good. One thing the customer did state was his propane detector was beeping every two minutes. So he removed it, and ordered a new one. He had just got it, so he wanted to install it. Then he mentioned that this problem started after he removed the old detector.???? He asked which wire is ground for the lip detector. Yep he did....... But I noticed he just put his hand in the opening for propane detector is mounted? And pulled out the two wires. No wire nuts or tape on the bare ends? So I check how the old one was wire. Found positive and negative on the power wires for the detector. Wired it in, set it in place, it will not work. The customer does not have a volt meter. He said some people do not know how to use them? I test the fuse for the lip detector, no power on the out going side of the fuse. Go get a replacement fuse from my Jeep. Plug it in and the detector works. Ccccustomer tries one slide. And it works. What the. Just happened. How could the fuse for the propane detector fuse stop the slides from working. I Kept saying since both slides do not work, there has to be something that affects both slides to be the problem. We did work on the batteries in the beginning, as they affect both slides. Can you believe it. That fuse supplies two wires. Yep it does. One for the propane detector, and one apparently for the controllers on the slides???? This was in a Mercedes class b Motorhome. 2014. Very expensive 5 amp fuse.

I just might think of hiding from customers.

Just curious if anyone knows anything about this small community. It is north of Billings Montana. Is there cell service in the area. Just curious, Vern

Thanks for posting that information

He made it back with a full propane tank. It’s a Mercedes based motorhome. The passenger side slide only goes out like 6”.

And explain his situation more yesterday. i do suggest to look at YouTube for videos today he he says he already tried those suggestions. beyond frustration,,,,, I ammmmm

Yesterday I was working on a class a motor home. It lost power and froze. ok. Ok while i am there another customer calls. He has two Scwintec slides that will not operate. I told him I am working on a rv that froze up. He says he is in no hurry. So I think about going there Monday morning. Customer calls at 9 am. States he ran out of propane at 4 this morning. It is 14 degrees outside. He has no way to attach a separate bottle. he suggested to drive 1 mile on gravel road to get the tank filled. just how could someone not keep track of what is happening with there rv.

I would not try to remove the crimp ring. That can be interesting to do. I have done it. But cutting them where you can splice them would be much easier. And if you use a shark bite type connector, you can remove them again with ease. The shark bite fitting has a o’ring to seal the pipe. The only time I have had a problem with this type of fitting, is if the pipe has stamped markings on them. Mose has printed lettering on them.

Thanksgivings to all Also thanks to the people that help each other on this forum. We all need help at one time or another.

I think my fingers did not listen to my brain when I posted awhile ago. I meant to say, change tire pressure in the rear drive axles. That is a easy thing to try. Your bed settling, most likely because the suspension leveling valve is not working properly. Or I have lazy fingers.

Just thinking about truck axle psi. Try different pressure settings to see if that makes a difference. Or the rear truck tires. We put new tires on in Florida. Made it to Texas, and had them replaced. When using the brakes, the truck wanted to leave the fifthwheel lead. Almost lost it once. When I had wanted to leave a commercial truck out in traffic. He was working, and we were just on vacation. The truck did act odd without the fifthwheel on back. But was just thinking it was new tires. Thinking

Just thinking about truck axle, lowering the .Try different pressure settings to see if that makes a difference. Or the rear truck tires. We put new tires on in Florida. Made it to Texas, and had them replaced. When using the brakes, the truck wanted to leave the fifthwheel lead. Almost lost it once. When I had wanted to leave a commercial truck out in traffic. He was working, and we were just on vacation. The truck did act odd without the fifthwheel on back. But was just thinking it was new tires. Thinking

I do have a simple questions for you. Then we can both think about what can be done with what you have existing in your RV now. I am available for a phone call?

Yes you need to eliminate the parentheses and letters on both ends. That is snow.

If you go to the HDT section. There is a way to post your pictures on this forum. If you do try it, you need to remove the front and rear 3 letters and I think the parentheses.

You probably need to check the transmission fluid with the engine running.

The other thermostat with the cover off is for the fantastic fan.

This is my thermostats for the living area. red light is for under floor heat exchanger from the Aquahot unit. It actually uses a Suburban furnace motor and fan for the heat exchanger. It operates threw a underfloor thermostat. The Dometic thermostat works the normal ac and propane furnace The next mechanical thermostat works the kitchen Aquahot heat exchanger that also operates with a Suburban fan motor. I also have a under floor rear heat exchanger that uses computer fans for the heat exchanger. And it has its own thermostat under the floor at the rear of the fifthwheel.

Let’s start with why was furnace was in there for in the beginning. I am sorta taking it that you planned on electrical heat to begin with? that is a question. Or was there only one gas furnace to begin with. It looks like that furnace is under the main floor. So where did the ductwork exit into the RV. Is there any ducts going to behind the axles. This question is very important as to how proceed with getting heat where it is neeed. Or wanted. Another question I need to ask, is there any barriers in the underbelly that would prohibit air flow from the front of the underbelly or rear of the underbelly. This question needs answered because heated air needs to return back to the furnace to be reheated. If you need to , I would suggest you call the manufacturer and ask them.