jeffw

Wow! That looks amazing! Where'd you find someone to do the Upol?

thanks!

Thanks. I'm having a hard time believing it's the roof seams as well. The most recent leak seemed to have water coming down the rear of the sleeper wall. The ceiling has always been dry, but the rear wall would be wet around where the upper bunk mounted. I got a ladder out and took some pix of the roof, and while it's not pretty, it seems the sealer is in place: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/noci79tw9kab7b3/AACMoeavGC8426E1bT6uVKTqa?dl=0 As part of chasing this down I've started talking to a couple of body shops. Considering having the truck repainted since it's so faded. Any ballparks on cost for a job like that?

Hi: I've got a pretty bad water leak in our 2007 VNL, and was wondering if anyone had a Body/Cab repair manual for that year (or at least for any of the gen2 trucks)? I found the manual for earlier truck at the HHRV site ( http://www.hhrvresource.com/VolvoDocs/80-86/PV776-TSP145522.pdf ) It seems to be leaking at the driver side seam that run front to back of the sleeper roof.

What tire pressure do you run for steer & drives? Do you know your unloaded and loaded axle weight? Our 780 isn't singled. Lowering the drive pressures to 75PSI makes a pretty big difference in ride quality. I run the steers at 95 PSI, and that also makes a big difference vs. 110+. Being singled, you won't be able to go as low, but tire pressures can make a huge difference in ride quality.

Autoshift is a 3-pedal semi-automatic. Clutch pedal is used for start-up and stopping only. Once you're rolling the computer handles all the shifts, and then you have to put the clutch in when you are about to come to a stop.

Also, suggestions for solar panels? I've got 2 storage bins on the back of the truck, and I was planning on putting the panels on top of them. The dimensions are 30x55 and 24x60.

Hi: I use our HDT to pull a racing trailer, and with the COVID shutdown, the batteries in the truck and trailer aren't very happy. I am considering adding a couple of solar panels to keep the batteries topped off. In the truck, I've got the 4 starting batteries, and 4 golf cart batteries for the inverter (so 2 banks). In the trailer, I've got 2 critical batteries (one for the inside lights and generator starting, and 2nd to power the hydraulic car lift). I've got a 3rd battery in the trailer that powers a small inverter. Do I need to keep the banks isolated from each other while charging? Is there a multi-bank charger that would do that? If there was such a beast, I was thinking of 2 panels and 2 chargers. Thanks! -jeff

If you haven't replaced the splitter solenoid valve before, it might be good to do that. Mine (10 speed) failed and left me stuck in the low range (1-5 gear) which topped out at 20MPH.

I don't have an iShift, but I do have an UltraShift. I use my left foot on the brake pedal and right on the gas. It works nicely once you try it a few times.

The TST 507 goes beyond 150. My trailer tires start at 125 and end up beyond 150.

I'd suggest using whatever is listed on the side of the P/S reservoir. Older trucks used engine oil, newer trucks use ATF.

We use http://www.usrider.org/ They cater to the crowd that hauls horses. They've been good to work with the one time I needed help.

Without the EPG the truck could be slower to warm up, and may struggle to stay at temperature for extended idles in cold weather.

If you start the truck with low air in the tanks, you should also hear the exhaust brake come on as air pressure builds after you start the engine. The Volvos use the exhaust brake to help the engine warm up faster (and stay warm at idle).

I get 6.5 towing and 9-10 bobtail on the highway.

http://hhrvresource.com/node/45#Pennsylvania doesn't look promising.

Congrats! I had the same stress about getting ours registered in MA as a motorhome, but it turned out to be easy. Glad you were able to press on and get the right plates!