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jeffw

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Everything posted by jeffw

  1. What model Sailun tire would you suggest as an all position/drive? I currently have Kelly KRH and Goodyear g661 HSA on the two axles (and the Goodyear have aged out). I was going to go with the Kelly but they're now $600 each...
  2. I'm in the same boat....not sure there are any deals these days but would love to hear. I'm looking for 295/75R22.5 drives.
  3. The only other trick I can help with is when bobtailing, if you want to skip-shift, you can go to manual and press the 'up' button twice. The requirement is that you have to be at high enough RPM that the 2nd shift will land high enough RPM-wise. I think that means shifting at 1600RPM or a bit over.
  4. I've got the same transmission and was told the only choice was 1st or 2nd....
  5. I have an ez pass and it's mounted at the top of the windshield and it reads just fine. Note that on most toll roads in the NE now, paying cash or by mail is quite a bit more expensive than via transponder.
  6. Hopefully other folks will be able to give advice as well, but what I found worked best on our ET hitch was to dump the truck airbags (so that the truck and hitch airbags aren't fighting each other as I raise the trailer off the hitch) and then lift the trailer enough that I could see a little light between the kingpin and hitch. Then back up slightly to release the pressure on the jaws. In most cases then the hitch will release.
  7. jeffw

    Volvo 730 Sheet Sizes

    top bunk is smaller. Not finding great specs...might be 36x75
  8. jeffw

    Volvo 730 Sheet Sizes

    I picked up this sheet set for the bottom workstation bed area and it's worked out OK: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MTH8L8X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As noted, it's 42x79....
  9. The resistor in the fan is a known weak spot:
  10. 2nd for the NOCO Genius. I've got a 3-bank charger in the trailer, using 2 outputs to charge a pair of LiFePO4 batteries. I also have an older Minn-Kota onboard charger and they would also fit the bill. The NOCO are a better choice in terms of selecting your battery chemistry (IMHO). https://no.co/genpro10x3
  11. This is a common failure, and I understand the only real fix is a new harness. Apparently a common failure mode is to have oil wicking up the harness into the ECU.
  12. The "binder" has been discussed here before. Perhaps it'll turn up in a search?
  13. We got the generator re-installed today and it seems to be working well. The repair was 11 hours (including 3 hours labor for removing/reinstall) and around $700 in parts for the repair and the 1000 hour service. Hopefully good for another 10 years 🙂
  14. No, it's going to go back in the trailer....makes the most sense there (though service for big things is certainly a challenge). Hopefully meeting at the shop Sunday morning to get it reinstalled.
  15. A bit of an update....we pulled the generator out a week ago, which took about an hour and half (and a forklift). Initial news seems promising. Internally the generator is still producing 120V on both of the circuits. Apparently the previous owner apparently did a bad repair to the area where the generator output connects to the trailer. One of the circuits was melted and the other damaged. The plan is to repair that and do the 1000 hour service and put it back into service. Was very glad to hear it wasn't the inverter board or alternator.
  16. http://www.hhrvresource.com/node/45.html#South_Dakota
  17. I just met with a local Onan dealer/shop and our plan is to pull the generator in a couple of weeks and see what's broken on it, and then make a decision on repair/replace. He's hopeful it might not be the inverter but something cheaper.
  18. So a bit more info on the QD.... We bought the trailer used in 2016. It was a 2008 model year trailer, but the generator manufacturing date was from 2000, so we suspect the previous owner had the generator 'laying around' and put it in. The hour meter was broken when we got it, stopped at 1368 hours. This generator is an inverter generator with 2x35A 120V legs. Last year, one of the legs dropped to ~60V and I contacted a local Onan dealer and they came to look at it. He said it's likely the inverter board, which is $1500, and the generator has to come out of the compartment for service, which is not straightforward. I think he said to figure $1k in labor just for removal/reinstall of the generator from the compartment. The trailer load is way less than 35A, so I rewired the one working leg to support all of the circuits in the trailer and limped along for the next year. This weekend, the lights started flickering a bit, and then eventually shut off. If the generator sits a bit, I can restart it and it'll work for a few minutes and then shut off. The engine does run fine--no smoking, starts up great. I do like the convenience of the generator but I'm worried about it becoming a money pit considering it's 20 years old.
  19. Hi: Our race trailer has (had?) a Onan QD7500 that died over the weekend after 20 years of faithful service. I'm trying to figure out what to do as a replacement, but one thing I'm considering is a gas Honda (the big boy eu7000is) placed on our truck bed and using it to power the trailer. I remembered some folks had interesting mounting/enclosures to put a generator on the truck frame. Our truck used to have an APU, so I've got plenty of room on on the passenger side. But, I'm wondering how to protect the generator from the elements, and also allow it to run in some sort of enclosure w/o overheating. Also, access to both sides of the generator for maintenance would be a concern. Does anyone have the 6500/7000 mounted on their truck? Could you share some photos? thanks! -jeff
  20. no data at http://www.hhrvresource.com/node/45.html#Vermont
  21. jeffw

    Hitch Placement

    We tow a stacker racing trailer, and when i'm at the tightest getting thru my driveway, it's not possible to walk between the truck and trailer. That would be at 90deg or so. This picture shows the truck/trailer about 45deg:
  22. jeffw

    Hitch Placement

    I think part of the driver for the hitch location is the design of the trailer. Commercial trailers are generally 'open' underneath the 5th wheel pin, which allows the tractor to get 90deg to the trailer (to jackknife it). Most recreational trailers aren't like this, so you wouldn't have the ability to turn tightly without the truck contacting the trailer.
  23. Upper window seems dry--the area above that latch is 100% dry....
  24. It's raining here today so I had a chance to look at the leak. There's no dampness in the roof liner at all, but it's leaking like crazy where the upper bunk stores on the driver side. It's not damp above it, or towards the back sleeper wall, but it's wet below that point: Any suggestions where it might be coming from?
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