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bluflame11

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  1. bluflame11

    Braking

    I know the rear slid....I'm not sure whether it was both axles or just one. The abs light does come on and go out at start up. I hear several series of "clicks" when you first turn on the key that I had always thought was the abs testing itself, but I may be wrong about that. As far as using the transmission to slow down, I do that as much as possible, but being a 2007 truck, it is pre I-shift. I have the Eaton 10 speed ultra shift. Makes it a bit harder.
  2. bluflame11

    Braking

    I just had the rears adjusted. My brakecontroller sores not use air at all...it is totally electric. How do I check the abs?
  3. bluflame11

    Braking

    I have something I wanted to ask about...i have tried searching and I have not found it, or I'm not searching the right terms...i have a 2007 Volvo 730, still tandem. We tow a 42 foot fiver. Yesterday we had a scary situation. We were driving along an interstate with about 4 lanes of travel. I was in the second lane from right. We were probably going 45mph as there was traffic. Suddenly the Lange I was in came to a dead stop. I jumped on the brakes. The tandem locked up but the fronts did not. Thankfully, no one was beside me, so I was able to steer to the slow lane to avoid a collision. Since then I have been wondering if my brakes are working as expected? I have a direct link for the controller. I have the understanding that the Brakes are proportional, so I have the trailer air supply lines capped and always run with the red octagon on dash pushed in. Am I doing something wrong? Did I not step hard enough? Should I leave the red octagon out? It worried me because one of the big reasons I went hdt was for panic stops and now I'm second guessing that.... Thanks inn advance!
  4. Thanks for the thoughts and replies so far! My truck is 2007 VNL 730 with the d12 and Eaton 10 speed 2 pedal trans. Purchased Jan 2017 with 600k. We have put 7-8k additional on it so far. Trailer is 2013 Sabre 36QBOK, 41 foot, weighing 13-14K. I do hear the fan kicking in and it was verified by the tech that the clutch for the fan is working well. I don't recall hearing it before the fan clutch was replaced, so I thought that would fix my problem. My coolant is orange and I have never had the coolant flushed or changed, and I have not had it pressure tested...I am not sure where to get that done. We bought the truck last January. I do not know when/if it has been changed or flushed previously. I am not losing any coolant. We had thought about the radiator fins. The truck was purchased from a corn farm and the air filter was extremely dusty, so it would make sense. Both myself and the dealership has inspected them and they seem to be very clear. I have rinsed with a regular garden hose. Only recent maintenance to the truck was new brakes 3 months ago, and new fan clutch in Feb. When we purchased the truck in Jan 2017, I had the dealership change oil and all oil, air, and fuel filters. The hills are in the East, PA, WV, And MD. Most recently, we have travelled I-68 through MD and WV when it has displayed this message. I think I answered all that was asked...let me know if I can answer anything else! I have wondered if the coolant may not be flowing well due to a partially blocked radiator or a defective water pump.
  5. Hi Everyone! I am looking to see if anyone has any advice or has been through this before. I have noticed that my truck gets warmer than I think it should when pulling hills. I start watching the temperature gauge slowly climb while going up a hill to the point is turns on the "check" light as in the pic below. This only happens when pulling long grades with an outside temp over 75 degrees. Once or twice, it has warmed up as far as to trigger the "stop" light and displayed "engine coolant temp too high". but, mostly it just gets to the warning in the picture and stays there, then when I crest the hill, the temp comes back down and the light goes out. AS you can see in the photo, the temp gauge is nearing the red line. I have had it to the local dealership on 3 occasions to try to figure this out. It leaves no codes in the computer for them. They have replaced the temperature sensor and the fan clutch, but this is still happening. I have asked them about whether I should replace the radiator or the water pump? they say that those rarely go bad, and they don't think that they are the problem. I even went so far as to take the truck hooked to the camper to have a tech ride with me with the computer hooked up....of course that turned out to be a beautiful, cool, 68 degree day and no matter how hard I ran the truck up hills, it would not heat up at all ( of course...). They did ride along and confirmed the temperature gauge was reading correctly, so they ruled out a malfunctioning gauge. ... the following week we went to the beach and it heated up again... I am at a loss and have no idea where to turn. I am worried the truck could shut down somewhere, or It will run hot and cause damage...any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I have been dealing with this situation for nearly 2 years now...
  6. Headed a little south and set up camp outside Williamsburg, Virginia
  7. I always thought that is the way it should be, but I am inexperienced.... not necessarily trying to pass everything on the hill, but always thought it should cruise right up with the rv without any issues!
  8. Thanks! I'll check these things.... how much boost should I see?
  9. A.c. was on , coolant level is good, not sure of oil temp
  10. Thanks! What's the best way to check these?
  11. On a normal cruise it runs 170-180 I believe... I hands tried down shifting, ruining in "low", easing off the throttle, nothing seems to change it.... As far as rpm, it is probably around 14-1500, maybe upwards of 2000 if i downshift. I believe the fan is engaging around 210ish
  12. Hi friends! We have a 2007 730 with d12 and 2 pedal Eaton 10 speed. We purchased this in January. My family absolutely loves traveling in the truck! Everyone has been so helpful! We have been having some concerns with overheating while towing grades. While towing up hill, the temp gauge would climb upwards of 215+, then the "check" light would come on and the message center displayed "engine ecu maintenance required". We did not want to mess with overheating, so to the dealer it went. They supposedly checked everything out and said it was the temp sensor, and replaced it. Next time out, same issue. Called the dealer and they said everything checked ok and since no codes were being left on the computer, they did not know where else to go. Yesterday, climbing a grade, the same messages came on, but them it progressed to the red "stop" triangle and the message center said "engine coolant temp high". We backed way off, and thankfully crested the hill without shutting down.... obviously I am very concerned. Once we crested the hill, the temp cooled down and all lights/ messages went away... Any ideas?
  13. Depending on the year of your truck, you may get any error....i did on my 07 when I tried to put on the clear led side lights... the original had a standard automobile bulb (1156 maybe? )....had it at the dealer for a few other things, and they looked into clearing the error for the led to work, but couldn't get it to work.... Found an easy enough fix though... wired in a socket to accept the original bulb, i wrapped it with some high heat material and tape just to be sure it did not get too warm, and tucked it in the hole, then mounted the led.... works like a charm and no error now! Just got to remember to check the inside bulb for a burn out if you get the error again.
  14. I just installed pioneer 4200 in my 730... solved both issues.... 1. Parking brake.... there is a small adapter that i bought to bypass the parking brake signal. Just search "pioneer parking brake bypass" on Amazon. It's like 8 bucks. 2. Reverse....i did run a wire from the taillights up to the dash. I am sure there is a wire under the dash somewhere, but I thought for the time I would spend looking for it, I could just run a wire to the back as I ran the cables for the back up cams. I did 2 back up cams, one at the fifth wheel hitch and one low at the bumper. Now, after all that was done, I ended up not using the reverse signal anyway.... on my unit the reverse signal triggered the radio to go to the back up camera, but I wanted to be able to switch between the 2 cameras back there depending on the situation, so I did not use the reverse trigger.
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