oldjohnt

Even if the old one turned out to be okay (like maybe it WAS the ignitor tip or a bad connection or ground instead of a bad board) a spare Dinosaur board isn't a bad item to keep as a spare !!! But that's still a fair amount of change if its not needed, your call, see what happens... John T

If you smell gas (can feel and/or hear gas valve opening) and hear the clik clik clik snap snap snap my guess not being there is the board and its HV coil/transformer (has a wire from it to ignitor tip) is working so Id suspect a bad ignitor tip assembly such as a hairline crack or carbon trace or short or not adjusted properly. On some models I have removed the wire off the HV coil/transformer and replaced it with a jumper wire from there to 1/8 inch from sheet metal have gas off but cycled the heater to see if its producing a spark. If so and the gas valve is being operated again check the ignitor tip assembly. Also if the ignitor tip assembly isn't well grounded it wont throw a spark. Maybe inspect (rust or loose screws) the mounting screws to insure a good ground. Ignitor tip and/or fixing bad ground or connection is way cheaper then a new board As a past used RV dealer and 48 year RVer Ive never had a Dinosaur replacement board go bad yet John T

NOR have I (seen that done in an RV, fused at BOTH DC ends). The correct method to provide overcurrent protection for the feeders FROM the Battery TO the Load (Inverter in this case) is, of course WELL DUH, at the energy/supply SOURCE, the Battery. Again, I would think that EITHER Monaco OR the Inverter installer should know that but maybe not lol ??? Is this an after market installation ??? If so and NOT overcurrent protected that lets Monaco off the hook, hard to believe they would run huge cables from a high energy battery supply source and NOT protect them !!!!!!!!!!! In addition, the Inverter (which when powered up its OUTPUT becomes an energy supply source for 120 VAC Loads) does supply current to its 120 VAC Loads, so those feeders need overcurrent protection. The Inverter (unless its a combination Inverter/Charger) doesn't supply energy TO the battery, it draws energy FROM the battery and the feeders need protected (at the battery) that run FROM the battery TO the Inverter. I haven't seen any RV (was a used dealer and saw hundreds) that used DC feeder protection at BOTH ends (Inverter and Battery) on the DC input cables, instead ONLY at the battery. Again if you cant find a fuse FROM the Battery TO the Inverter, I would definitely install one !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Subject to the battery energy storage capacity and cables there could be literally hundreds and more amps flowing for a short time until something opened and that can create tremendous heat and fire !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My answer is NO. UNLESS its a combination Inverter/Charger, energy flows FROM batteries (stored energy source) TO the Inverter, NOT FROM Inverter TO batteries, so overcurrent protection is ONLY required at the energy source IE the batteries. An Inverter does NOT store energy that can pump such out into the batteries, its a load. Sure, if a person felt compelled to have DC circuit feeder protection at BOTH ends (Inverter and batteries) it could be installed, but there's actually no engineering requirement nor have I seen or done so myself. Still to each their own its their RV and their choice !! Hope this helps, best wishes n God Bless, yall keep safe now John T (Long retired n rusty electrical engineer so no warranty, but believe the above still remains true)

In order to properly protect feeder circuits supplied by the battery bank, the overcurrent protection device (fuse or breaker) needs located at the source of the energy/supply THE BATTERIES. If its at the load or far away now that leaves all those huge high current capable cables UNPROTECTED !!!!!!!!!!!! I would think Monaco is aware of that but ??????????????????? I'm sure you're already well aware of this, but the info may help some rookies out there. You can find a 300 amp (or whatever size is required) fuse or breaker so if ones not there or cant be found at the batteries Id sure be looking for one and adding it if it were mine. John T

Of course, simple parallel wiring up to the new LED lights works DUH. HOWEVER how to find and route the new wires up top I can't say, it depends on your TT and it can be a real pain (drilling holes, grounds, waterproofing, routing) grrrrrrrrrrr. If you can find surface mount fixtures (tail and brake/turn) for up top, that and a hole is an easy start, but wire routing ????? I bought some combo (Tail and Brake/Turn) LED surface mount ovals on Flea bay with three wires (Ground, Tail, Brake/Turn) so all I needed was a hole in the middle for the wires which I mounted with Stainless Steel self drillers into the sheet metal. That being said, on some vehicles with old style bi metal heating type flashers (unlike modern electronic units) if you replace old incandescent (like say 1157) bulbs with LED they don't draw enough current to operate the flashers. If you do this I'd recommend you go ahead and replace ALL the old existing incandescent with LED's and you may or may not need new flashers. I buy my LED's on Flea Bay and bought my wireless rear view camera there (works great, a simple cheap one). It's one of those that mounts on top the license plate holder so I drilled a hole near the top center of my RV and mounted it there instead, but I had to run 12 volts to it while the up front screen powers via the cigarette lighter port. I mounted the screen on my rear view mirror which is also fine. Sorry no specific help as your TT dictates that. John T

Michelle, from what you posted I'm assuming its a 30 amp RV with one rooftop AC unit correct ??? If so and the AC and ALL other 120 VAC appliances (coffee, hair dryer, microwave, all outlets etc) are working right, I'ma thinking your 120 VAC supply is wired correct and adequate but cant say for sure not being there. Any GFCI receptacles that need reset????? Ifffffffffffff ??? all above is working correct and its ONLY your battery isn't being charged, a few concerns are as follows: 1) Is the converter/charger getting its 120 VAC input ??? Check to see if a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker (powering converter/charger) in your 120 VAC distribution panel is tripped?? See if there's any blown fuses or resets near the charger that may be open/blown??? 2) There needs to be a good solid connection FROM the Converter/Charger DC output TO your battery. MAYBE A WRE CAME LOOSE OR BROKE ?? 3) Insure there's no DC output circuit breaker (maybe a reset button) on the Converter/Charger that's tripped?? Are there any ON pilot lamps on the Charger showing ?? Any red push button looking resets?? 4) I have seen in line glass or blade type automotive fuses in the wire from charger to battery be blown so look for any blown fuses near the battery or the chargers DC output. 5) Battery voltage at rest and stabilized if charged should be near 12.6 volts but if hooked to a good working connected charger it should rise to the 13 to 14 volt or so range, if not shes NOT charging but DUH you already know that lol........... Keep it simple, insure 120 VAC to RV and charger INPUT,,,,,,,,,,check for tripped 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker in your AC distribution panel,,,,,,,,,,,,,,check for blown fuses or tripped breakers on or near charger or near battery and for bad wiring connections John T

SUCCESS UPDATE So, I installed a new 293 Degree Thermal (old was 274 or 284 best I could tell),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Changed oil from Castrol Synthetic to Royal Purple Synthetic (but don't think that mattered),,,,,,,,,,,,,,Got the fuel mixture just a tad richer (Yaromes input), although, she started n ran n powered AC just fine before..................... Other day it was hot n humid and it ran the AC fine like 90 minutes trial NO SHUT DOWNS Yayyyyyyyyyyyyyy But only time will tell Thanks to all who responded John T

Jim, good question, here is some info FYI. 1) If you're talking straight Watts and as Power = V x I, 4000 watts at 120 volts = 33.33 Amps. 3600 Watts = 30 Amps 3600/120. HOWEVER that's nowhere near the "rest of the story" You may see KW and you may see KVA ratings on some equipment 2) As you well know the labeled ratings may or may not be hyped up a bit (surely not lol) plus there's the "Continuous" and "Surge" ratings 3) A motor might temporarily draw 5 to 6 times its normal running current at startup which is why an x rated genset might not start an AC even if it could supply the normal running current. IE they can RUN an AC but they just cant START IT LOL. That's where an AC Soft Start Unit like discussed on here recently might allow a certain sized genset to start and run an AC which it couldn't otherwise. 4) KW is NOT the same as KVA. KVA is "Apparent Power" while KW is Actual or Real Power available to do work. 5) KW = KVA x Power Factor. In a pure Resistive circuit the PF is Unity one so KW and KVA are the same there. 6) In a high inductive load such as a motor (like the AC unit) current lags the voltage and you get a lousy less then one Power Factor which is why power factor correction capacitors (current leads the voltage) are added to counteract the inductance and improve the power factor. ANHYWHO my Genset starts n runs my AC (like fine for 30 minutes) if I can stop it from overheating or repair any inaccurate thermal or pressure switches causing it to shut down ????????????? Maybe a 293 degree (versus 277 or 284) thermal will allow it to keep running??? As noted an "Oil Cooler" perhaps???? Best wishes John T

UPDATE: I just found a 293 Degree Generac Thermal Switch for my Make Model and Serial Number Genset which I'm ordering Monday from whichever supplier has one in stock. I'm going to go ahead and buy a new Oil Pressure Switch (its in series with thermal right by the oil filter) and replace both and change the oil soon as the parts arrive. I will let yall know if that fixes the premature shut down...Perhaps as suggested an "Oil Cooler" ???? THANKS AGAIN TO YALL John T

THANKS EVERYONE, I just heard from a retired small Generator repair friend and much of what he said mirrors all of you gents great advice and my own suspicions.......He said he had seen thermal switches cause shut down even though actual conditions didn't warrant it. One switch he found was Part number G075281, Temp 284 F LIKE YAROME MENTIONED Oil was recently changed to Castrol Magnatec Full Synthetic of the viscosity labeled on Genset. Has a new (about 1 year ago) carb and air filter. I tried it with the side compartment door open and it made NO difference. I haven't yet experimented or looked at any fuel mixture adjustment on the recently installed carb. I DO KNOW it could possibly be a tad lean ??? its certainly NOT over rich, she NEVER black smokes nor exhibits any over rich gas odor and plug is a nice warm gray color PLUS she never stalls or coughs when the AC compressor kicks in. I might see if I can richen it 1/4 turn if it has such an adjustment that is ??? MY PLAN after all you guys and the retired gents advice is : I am going to order that new 284 Degree switch,,,,,,,,Change oil with Synthetic again maybe a different brand this time,,,,,,,,,clean air filter,,,,,,,,,,,,,look into a slight fuel richening,,,,,,,,,,,,,,If all that fails do the extra fan thing which sounds like a good idea to me THANKS EVERYONE John T

Yeah I know, many are NOT fans of Generac RV Generators, but that's what was in the RV I bought and works good EXCEPT for one problem which I want to ask about. Its a Generac 4 KW Model 4700. It starts fine, runs smooth and powers the AC or Microwave or coffer maker or hair dryer all fine, no black or blue smoke, no sputtering, no coughing, nice clean warm gray NON fouled spark plug BUT after maybe 30 minutes if running the rooftop AC IT SHUTS DOWN........No its NOT out of fuel, NO the ignition system is otherwise fine, ITS LIKE A SUDDEN SAFETY SHUT DOWN such as low oil pressure or low oil (full of fresh oil) and I suspect it may be a safety thermal shut down due to overheating ??????????? It ONLY shuts down after 30 mins of AC use, when its real hot outside, NEVER any other time and AC works fine plugged to shore power.......I have all other 120 VAC loads like fridge and charger etc OFF when I run the AC in extreme hot weather. If I wait maybe 15 to 20 mins it starts right up and repeats the cycle and eventually shuts down again. Anyone ever run across a faulty safety thermal limit switch that's opening although it shouldn't at wrong temperature ??? Think of reasons for overheating ?? Its clean and free underneath where the screen is where the fan circulates engine cooling air?? What you think is wrong or what should I try ???? When it happens its just like you hit the kill switch IT SHUTS DOWN grrrrrrrrrrr Guess I need to have my meter handy and locate any thermal or other safety limit switch (oil or overheating etc) and right when it shuts down see if its open !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sure I like Onans but this is what I'm stuck with lol. If I cant fix it I will deal with that when the time comes. John T

The last Onan circuit control board I purchased was like over five hundred dollars and there were NO Dinosaur Electronics or other manufacturers or rebuilders or repair shops that would repair or replace them PERIOD and that was AFTER I tried all the external troubleshooting like breakers or switches or sensors or fuel related issues grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr HOPEFULLY Maybe the Onan troubleshooting procedures can get you by much cheaper. I ran Onan's of all types and sizes for yearsssssssssss and could usually keep them going myself UNTIL I experienced circuit board problems on the later and new generation units. Give me the old two cylinder MUCH QUITER and smoother 1800 RPM units in the smaller 4 KW gas application. Good luck let us know how it turns out John T

FWIW I agree. The later blade style fuses have the element better encased inside plastic versus those old glass units with the metal ends over the fragile glass tube. I believe plugging and unplugging them was their worst abuse. The ones I saw still working fine even if 50+ years old looked like they had NEVER been removed. I'm sure you're still warm down there in Texas. I came back to Indiana too darn early lol still full timing in the RV. Best wishes John T

Yo Darryl, Oldddddddddddddddd Edison looking light bulbs sure are neat. When I attended a Lighting Seminar at GE's NELA Park in Cleveland Ohio I saw some real antique bulbs................ While I didn't restore any antique trucks or tractors that were 116 years old, I saw some maybe half that with working original glass fuses !!!!!!!!!!!!! Gotta love antique electrical stuff (To at least look at lol) Fun chatting with yall John T

EmPeg FYI while there may be similarities, what you call a fuse filament isn't EXACTLY "just like" an incandescent light bulb. The delicate filament used in an incandescent light bulb operating in a vacuum is designed and manufactured to produce light (and heat by default) when current flows through it, while the thin metallic conductor inside a fuse produces no light but is sized with precision and has the proper mechanical, metallurgical and thermodynamic properties so it melts open upon x amps of current flow over x time. In all my years I've never seen a light bulb last typically as long as a glass encased fuse (years and years) PROVIDED THAT the fuse isn't operated at its rating for too long too often. SURE they can degrade but not so much due to age versus too many amps too long...............HOWEVER I agree with you it may be called "just like" in that too much current too long too often might mechanically/physically stress it to the point it eventually fails, as would a light bulb due in part to the initial inrush current and its temperature changing resistance properties ............ Regardless of the reason your old one was blown or how old it was, if that new one is working fine and continues to do so for some time, your heating element and other electronics is likely okay YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY Good luck and best wishes John T

EXACTLY I've experienced that several times over the years. Even if to the eye they appear complete a continuity check or an ohm meter can still show an open circuit. I used to restore antique cars and tractors and saw a ton of those old glass fuses that were well over 30 years old all ratty lookin STILL WORKING FINE as mere age alone didn't degrade them. As long as they remain sealed against the elements and aren't stressed from over current they can last years and years, and that's more then I can say for some circuit breakers I encountered !!! Take care yall John T

"Hopefully the 5A fuse just reached it's end of life!" Darn good chance it sounds like, especially considering its age lol John T

"I assure you that a blown fuse does not always mean there is a problem" EXACTLY they are manufactured relatively cheap and may still open/blow if there's NO problem with the device, as well as open/blow if excess current due to a device problem or a short or excess initial inrush current causes such. Hey what can a person expect from such a cheap piece of *&^%$ Despite that, in motor control circuits and many industrial applications a good old fashion fuse is still quite reliable as compared to a mechanical circuit breaker with its springs, arms and cam action and all that other "stuff" lol Yall take care John T

EmPeg, CONGRATULATIONS thanks for the feedback...........Hopefully there's still no lingering problem (heating element perhaps) that caused the fuse to blow in the first place ????????????????? Best wishes John T

As a 47 consecutive year RV user and past dealer, I came across bad/open 120 VAC heating elements that caused the problem you're experiencing. That's easy to check using an ohm meter. It may well also be what Kirk mentioned, no 120 VAC power TO the fridge or a blown fuse or some other simple problem. You gotta have 120 VAC power TO the fridge (check wiring and 120 VAC distribution panel and circuit breakers etc) ,,,,,,,,,,,Then a good closed fuse for the 120 VAC circuit,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Then a good continuous heating element. PS You stated "the fridge switched to LP and won't go to electric" If the automatic switch over sensing circuit DOES NOT SEE the presence of 120 VAC, it will choose LP gas. Since that's the case, I would FIRST suspect there's no 120 VAC available over the other possible problem I spoke of above (heating element is bad) orrrrrrrrrrrrr the small fuse is blown. EITHER can cause it to cool on LP Gas but NOT on 120 VAC. A simple volt meter or a test light or an 120 VAC device plugged into the fridge outlet (if so wired) to see if voltage is present is the first thing to look at. If NOT look at the 120 VAC distribution panel (tripped breaker). Even if there's power to the outlet, however, the fuse still needs to be good !!!!! Let us know what you find These manuals may help https://www.manualslib.com/products/Norcold-N611-2649946.html http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Norcold-Service-N61x-N81x John T

Dutch good idea, I carry one also and as I best recall its a Dinosaur as you mentioned universal to fit some furnaces and water heaters but NOT my fridge which has a separate ignitor and an entirely different control board. I carry an extra ignitor module for it. Good insurance since if you spend the money and carry one with you the originals seldom go bad LOL As an old Boy Scout I usually carry a spare belt often spare radiator hoses and on some RV's that used an ignition module (and coil) I carry one of those, plus the usual spare tire and tire plugs and air compressor etc etc etc AND MY EMERGENCY ROAD SERVICE CARD and a ton of other assorted spare parts and tools.............. John T

Here's what we use when dry camping, it requires NO electricity, NO Generator running, NO Battery and Inverter use, WORKS GREAT https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-2000015167-Camping-Coffeemaker/dp/B001K7IDVU/ref=sr_1_1/141-9155492-5732724?ie=UTF8&qid=1521643357&sr=8-1&keywords=coleman+camping+coffee+maker John T

Al, in line with your post, in cases where all the voltages and connections AT THE BOARD are fine (and any safety limits or thermals or T Stat or fuses etc are all okay) but there's still failure to ignite, I have the wife turn it on while I'm outside at the heater. I hope/expect to hear and feel the gas valve open and on some models see ?? or hear the Ignitor Tip fire the snap snap snap HV arcing sound it makes. If I cant hear the snap snap snap or possibly see ?? the arcing, I remove the HV ignitor tip assembly cable (ifffffffffffff heater model is such type and allows ????) on the board and replace it with a jumper wire to within 1/8 inch from metal, turn it on and look for the small firing arcs to see if the board and its HV coil/transformer is operating. If there's no gas valve opening nor any HV arcing and the board is receiving full voltage, then I suspect the board. However if the HV coil/transformer is producing a spark (via the rigged jumper) and the gas valve is opening, then I suspect a bad HV ignitor tip assembly (hairline crack or carbon trace or bad connection or ground or improper location or its HV cable is bad) or it may just need relocated. And there's also the other problem you described where it lights but then goes out grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. If it senses no flame (or that board function isn't working correct) it shuts down for safety. DISCLAIMER NOTE: I cant say for sure any of this applies to HIS HEATER (I didn't take time to look at his manual) but FWIW it has on several models I've owned, take it as pure GENERIC suggestions. INDEED check all connections including grounds and for a resistive switch HE NEEDS GOOD VOLTAGE AT THE BOARD. Sure the board may be bad, but I try the simple easy CHEAPER fixes first lol Fun chatting with yall, hope were helping?? John T

LC, I was once on the phone with Dinosaur Electronics (who manufactures replacement circuit boards) troubleshooting a similar problem. They insisted I use a quality voltmeter to measure voltage to the board AS LOW VOLTAGE can cause problems. I was advised to remove the flat ribbon cable connector and use a lead pencil eraser to gently polish and clean up the contact strips on the circuit board as resistance and voltage drop there can cause problems. When cleaning sensitive electrical connections and components I do not like to use anything that may leave fine residue/particles. As I best recall it was Dinosaur who first suggested a pencil eraser and I also like electrical contact spray cleaner with a good clean up afterwards. You have to first confirm sufficient voltage TO THE BOARD (via switch and connections or other limits) and if that's present and its NOT a low voltage or connection problem, then I might suspect the board. I have also observed circuit boards that exhibited intermittent problems when moved or plugged and unplugged etc HAD A LOOSE FAULTY COLD SOLDER JOINT which was easily cured using a small soldering iron. NOTE one thing to remember when making voltage checks is that if there's a bad/loose/burned/resistive connection there's NO I x R voltage drop across it until current flows through it. Check connections and voltages and look for easy simple fixes (bad resistive switch contacts, ribbon cable connection, other limits) FIRST before investing in circuit boards etc. John T

Gee Yarome, "that's not how you do it" LOL LOL Just kidding I have to agree with your good advice, those relatively cheaper batteries labeled RV/Marine or those that talk about CCA and never Amp Hours, are often semi and NOT true Deep Cycle like a golf cart battery which are described in Amp Hours moreso then CCA. Their purpose is to have sufficient CCA to crank a big marine engine and then run the trolling motor a good period. Dan, That being said in my younger or broke days (prior to extended dry camping) I ran plenty of those RV/Marine batteries and got by fine, so once installed I wouldn't bother to upgrade until such time they totally failed (may be a long time if kept charged up and not discharged over 50% often) orrrrrrrrrr you upgrade and plan on a lot of extended dry camping. That's my story n Ima stickin to it John T