oldjohnt

I like the idea of the motor being on top of the pump mechanism, makes perfect sense even without any manual. As far as the inlet and outlet orientation, I like the inlet/suction side oriented so its as close to,,,,,, and as straight as possible,,,,,,,,,,,, and as low as possible to the fresh water tank outlet. Sure, leaks can be an issue regarding mounting, but I'm not going into that. I'm less concerned with the pressure output side as its easier to force water out then suck it in lol The problem is the space available and the pumps configuration may not allow all to be what's best READ THE MANUAL do what it says over my opinion, I've been wrong before (don't tell my wife that) John T

That's one good harvest like 87% !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sweet is right CONGRATULATIONS. I'm seldom at such ideal conditions, in Texas or Florida in the winter I wont get such yield from my four panel 1080 Watt array, I will be lucky to get 800 watts probably. But hey so long as I achieve 100% SOC by early to mid morning (later if rain or parked under total shade canopy) what do I care lol Gotta love plenty of solar John T

THANKS STEVE, I just noticed your responses, all make sense, here are my thoughts. YESSSSSSSSSSS that darn muffler located INSIDE the housing isn't a great thermal design I agree as it releases sooooooooo much heat alllllllllll inside the enclosed housing. If a person reconnected the exhaust with the muffler OUTSIDE the box I'm sure that will help immensely, it about HAS TO.... UPDATE since a year ago...……... I installed the new 293 Degree oil temperature thermal switch,,,,,,,,,,,,While I doubt it made any difference whatsoever, I changed to Royal Purple Full Synthetic Oil,,,,,,,,,,,,WHAT I THINK MADE THE MOST DIFFERENCE is I added a squirell cage blower and ducted it so it forces/stuffs more air into about 1/2 of the housings fresh cooling air inlet side,,,,,,,,,,,,,WHAT ALSO MADE I THINK A HUGE DIFFERENCE is I adjusted the governor so it now runs no load at 62 HZ and 120 volts and under full load its running at 60 HZ and 115 + volts, it was dragging down (voltage and frequency) quite a bit before under full load, but NOT now. I think the fuel mixture is fine for now, not lean but not too rich So far (but hasn't been exposed to running the AC over maybe 90 minutes when its over 90 outside, only time will tell) its ran a long time and NEVER shut down due to overheated oil. Operating at the proper voltage and frequency and stuffing more air into the boxes inlet just had to help in my opinion HOWEVER if it ever does I think the first thing would be to re route the exhaust so its NOT direct under the housing,,,,,,,,,,,,,if not too difficult try one of the oil coolers you mentioned,,,,,,,,,,,,maybe try what you spoke of regarding heat shielding the interior muffler if that doesn't cause other bad outcomes???? BOTTOM LINE its actually very very infrequent when dry camping I run the AC. I would typically move or go up in elevation where its cooler but if its just too hot to get to sleep I might run it a while before bed to cool down then go back to all my vent fans and rooftop vents and and fans etc....Also if the genny ever gets too troublesome I would replace it with a new Cummins Onan, but for now its working great and if it ain't broke I'm NOT gonna fix it lol QUESTION FOR YOU STEVE For another issue to quiet it down a bit more I've considered running a larger auto style muffler OUTSIDE THE BOX in series with and attached to the exhaust pipe it has now...……..HOWEVER I fear that might restrict the exhaust air flow too much (can cause more heat problem) and/or might burn up the exhaust valve...……...WHAT DO YOU THINK ??????????????? Its NOT anything that needs done actually, just a method under consideration to quiet it down a bit more John T (barely got through Thermodynamics when in electrical engineering school, its NOT my cup o tea)

Hey Red, you're doin good. Wellllllllllll if its NOT any ground problem or grounding of the burner assembly ,,,,,,,,,,,,,If its NOT any poor electrical connection including but not limited to any connection to the board problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,If its NOT any low voltage problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,If its a new well grounded properly gapped ignitor tip,,,,,,,,,,,,IF IT STILL LIGHTS (as before, if it at least lights that cuts towards a board versus the ignitor as the problem) BUT THEN GOES OUT (that still what it's doing???) I'm thinking the flame sensor electronic circuitry on the board is failing to keep the gas valve open as it should SO IT MAY BE TIME FOR A NEW BOARD provided you cant troubleshoot any other possible causes!!!!!!!!!!!!! But hey, I wouldn't regret buying the new Ignitor Tip, because they do go bad and now you have a new one to match a new board. ANYBODY HAVE ONE OF THE BOARD TESTERS THEY CAN LOAN HIM ???????????????? I bet some RV dealers do but they aren't going to loan them out lol THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK For your convenience I will copy and re paste my sources for a new board above: 1) The Atwood Manual to find the correct part number: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf 2) To research Dinosaur Electronics selection of Boards go to: http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm 3) In the event you want to shop online for Circuit Boards, I’m unsure if the one you need is Atwood 93851, but you can figure it out using the manual linked above, here are a couple of the many many places to purchase one: Atwood 93851 Board on E Bay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Atwood+93851&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=Atwood+GCH6A Atwood 93851 Board on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s?k=atwood+93851+circuit+board&crid=RJGX4TBRO1E6&sprefix=atwood+93851+circuit+board%2Caps%2C248&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_26 Dinosaur Circuit Boards on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dinosaur+circuit+board&crid=3RIVDNQQ9RQRF&sprefix=dinosaur+ircuit+%2Caps%2C188&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_16 Dinosaur Circuit Boards on E Bay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=dinosaur+circuit+board&_sacat=0 John T

If, depending on my panels placement on the RV roof (I have four on a 29 ft Class C) there is a chance one might be shaded more then another, I prefer parallel versus series connection in that situation..... Hard to say sitting here with no more data or specs if the OP has a battery or a panel problem, but if he is full charged 100% (reducing a weak panel issue once he finally achieves 100% SOC provided the panels aren't allowing reverse discharge) at a certain time but then he is experiencing faster discharges then previously given the same loads, the batteries (along with connection or short problems) may be suspect. I'm sure he will figure it out if he performs some troubleshooting. Nice chatting with you, take care now John T

Yo Birdman, Your welcome, when I first studied it I was surprised how much difference connections could make as far as load and charge balance in multiple battery configurations. I run an extra 120 VAC compressor fridge 24/7 and a CPAP each night and a Kill A Watt meter showed my CPAP consumed around 20 Amp Hours each night (depends on Temp and Humidity and Air Pressure settings) and the fridge around 45 Amp Hours per day. LED lights and occasional water pump and vent fans don't require much but if the furnace has to run often at night that's something like 7 amp hours per hour of run time. If a CPAP or other device were to run at 12 VDC versus 120 VAC that saves Inverter inefficiency losses. If you ran two CPAP's each night and they used what mine does that would require 40 Amp Hours of stored energy meaning if your house batteries were full charged when the CPAP started you would need at least 100 Amp Hours of battery capacity so you don't discharge more then 50%. However lights and vent fans and water pumps and small electronics prior to bedtime after solar quits producing might stretch an only 100 Amp Hour battery bank. Now if a person had say two Trojan T-105 six volts in series that would be 225 Amp Hours and would run those two CPAP's. Nice chatting with you, best wishes John T

Great question and good specs Bob, I'm NOT any solar expert you asked for but an old long retired and rusty electrical engineer and RV owner of 49 years so will offer my non expert "opinions". 1) While subject to the batteries use and care over six years they should still be in at least "decent condition" but its impossible to say what use and care they have been subjected to. How often or how long they may have sat in lower charge states (especially if over 50%), if they were properly "equalized" on any regular basis, if water level was maintained, how many actual "life cycles" were consumed all contribute to their life, but I'm sure you're already aware of all that. 2) Have you and if not the first thing (oops second after checking water level) I would do is subject them to a full blown EQUALIZATION as called for on the Trojan website. That can reduce the effects of sulfation which reduces a batteries energy storage capacity. I know many smart chargers have a so called "equalization" cycle but I don't consider that to be the same quality and duration of a full blown equalization as specified on the Trojan website. Hey it shouldn't hurt and may reduce sulfation and help the batteries, so why not give it a try if you haven't already??? 3) The easy simple procedure of running a Load Test on each battery coupled with accurate hydrometer readings can help diagnose a problem ESPECIALY with ONE of the four batteries. As you know in that series parallel arrangement even if ONLY ONE of your four batteries is defective it can drag down the entire array. Maybe you only have ONE battery that's the problem !!!!!!!!!!!! 4) When batteries are configured in series parallel if not done properly some of the batteries may do the bulk of the work and age faster then the others so you might want to look at your wiring after considering the experiments performed by smart gauge http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html 5) While voltage readings can provide an indication of the batteries SOC, voltage sag under load or voltage rise under charge must be considered. Its the voltage at rest and stabilized that also matters. A full true battery monitor system provides more accurate information, but still from your post it appears there is some problem. I make no comment as to the quality or effectiveness or your Inverter/Charger or Solar Charge Controller and if it (if any) is a factor in your problem. SUMMARY, sure the batteries may be approaching EOL (subject to past six years care and use) but before I ran out and replaced them I would individually one by one take voltage readings at rest and stabilized plus hydrometer readings and run a full blown equalization cycle and then see what happens ?????????????? If not already if they are configured per the above give them plenty of time being charged with your Magnum also. I wouldn't be surprised if there were some degree of improvement (if none of the four are bad) even if not like new. In the event you're ready for an upgrade take a look at AGM technology (Full River, Lifeline, Renogy, Trojan etc) I recently replaced four Six Volt Trojans with three Renogy 12 Volt Deep Cycle AGM's (plus increasing solar to 1080 watts) and am very satisfied with less maintenance yayyyyyyyy Best wishes John T

Thanks for the feedback ryno, yep that confirms what I was thinking and if you watch this video I found it verifies the same. That's why I don't envision any over voltage harm (caused by the Auto former) and wouldn't hesitate to run it full time. Using it coupled with the EMS you have reduces risk significantly. As always, consult with the manufacturer before making your decision. https://hughesautoformers.com/voltage-boosters/ I agree when the temp warms up and all the RV's run the AC now that's when low voltage is more likely to occur and a 10% boost can really help. Thanks to you and this thread I'm about to convince myself to invest !!!!!!!!!!!! In some of the computer rooms I designed power distribution for in addition to all the spike and surge protection and UPS I also specified more exotic and some automatic tap changing transformers to more precisely regulate the voltage, but that's sort of overkill and expensive for an RV.. Take care now best wishes, fun chat John T

Ryno, good thread you started, fun and educational. So long as there are no issues with using an EMS and your Auto Former together, I would consider trying it hard wired full time UNLESS advised otherwise by either manufacturer. Hopefully, the Auto Former will prevent voltage sags within its capability and if over voltage should occur, the EMS will alarm. I don't view the chance of any constant OVER voltage problem CAUSED BY THE AUTO FORMER ITSELF, although sure if the park was operating at a drastic high voltage the Auto Former wont reduce it if I understand it correctly. I believe the Auto Former operates in a sort of float or standby mode providing little boost when the pedestal power is within spec HOWEVER if the pedestal voltage drops to a certain level it can automatically boost as high as 10% or whatever its max capability is. THEREFORE I don't see much risk in using it full time fearing OVER Voltage, and besides if that happens the EMS will alert. Have you used both at the same time ?? Any problems ?? But the Auto Former may have done its job any you were never even aware but hey if so fine right??? John T

Great questions, I'm not an expert (long retired and rusty from practice) but I am familiar with such devices having spent much of my career as a Power Distribution Design Engineer so will offer my thoughts. 1) NO I do not carry one. 2) However if I did here are my recommendations and reasons for such. a) NO I wouldn't wait until voltage was low (how and when will you even know its low ??? If you see its low damage may already be done !!! What if you're not there???) that's too late and defeats the whole purpose of having one in the first place. It stores energy and if the input voltage sags it uses that energy so its output the RV sees MAY NOT EXPERIENCE SUCH A SAG subject to its rating and the input and its capacity to maintain a certain output to the RV. Its NOT and infinite energy source but can reduce sags to the RV. b) If I had one I would hard wire it permanently so anytime the RV is plugged to shore power it can do its job subject to its limitations NOTES The closer the RV park may be located to any heavy industry where huge chillers or other HVAC or welders or motors etc are in use the greater the need for such a device because there's a greater chance of voltage sags......... also spikes and surges. Likewise the farther the RV park is located from the last substation the greater chance of problems, what's also fed from the primary line serving the park??? I see so many older RV parks (including government parks) with poor quality power distribution and in that case transformers and surge protection devices and energy management are most important. While no devices are perfect transformers and monitors and protectors obviously reduce the risk of damage to an RV's electricals. Since you already have one wire it in permanent and use and enjoy its features which you will hopefully never even realize took place John T

Red, To summarize and make it easier in the event it turns out you need a new circuit board (hope something simpler or free or cheaper, run troubleshooting to determine) start with: 1) The Atwood Manual to find the correct part number: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf 2) To research Dinosaur Electronics selection of Boards go to: http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm 3) In the event you want to shop online for Circuit Boards, I’m unsure if the one you need is Atwood 93851, but you can figure it out using the manual linked above, here are a couple of the many many places to purchase one: Atwood 93851 Board on E Bay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Atwood+93851&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=Atwood+GCH6A Atwood 93851 Board on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s?k=atwood+93851+circuit+board&crid=RJGX4TBRO1E6&sprefix=atwood+93851+circuit+board%2Caps%2C248&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_26 Dinosaur Circuit Boards on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dinosaur+circuit+board&crid=3RIVDNQQ9RQRF&sprefix=dinosaur+ircuit+%2Caps%2C188&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_16 Dinosaur Circuit Boards on E Bay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=dinosaur+circuit+board&_sacat=0 Hope this helps, best wishes John T

DITTO, I have used several of them and like you to date none have failed, hope this isn't a jinx lol. I currently have one in my fridge and I have NO replacement in my RV spare parts bin, so I hope the non failure trend continues !! Years back when I called Dinosaur for Tech Support on a Saturday I (pleasantly surprised) talked to the president who walked me through some troubleshooting and he was very sharp. John T

Good idea Dutch, as a matter of fact I believe Dinosaur sells some "Universal Ignitor Boards" that can be used on EITHER a furnace or water heater as you noted. I think (cant recall what all I have lol) I have one in my RV spare parts bin so if EITHER my furnace OR water heater board failed I may be able to make repairs. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm Hey if preliminary troubleshooting ruled out easy minor free cures such as say grounds or connections or rusty/loose attachments or low voltage and you're down to EITHER a Board or an Ignitor Tip with no equipment to test which is at fault, then your method might provide the answer !!!!! Otherwise, if a person is content to throw parts at the problem Id still start with the much cheaper Ignitor Tip before spending big bucks on a Board. Unfortunately since MURPHYS LAW never sleeps and since his water heater is at least lighting it may ???? prove to be a Board problem grrrrrrrrrrrrr Nice sparky chattin, best wishes John T

That's worth a try absent a method to test if the probe or the board is the problem assuming its NOT any of the minor grounding or connection or low voltage problems discussed above. Go for it and its not all that expensive and you may luck out, but if not and it proves to be the board is at fault, be sure and check out Dinosaur Electronics. I have used several of them and not had one go bad yet. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/ John T

Good Morning Red, Glad to hear you're checking grounds and thanks for the feedback FYI How it works is (once t stat calls for heat, power is sent to the board, and gas valve opens) the boards HV coil/transformer sends HV pulses to the ignitor tip so she sparks sparks sparks until the flame starts. THEN IFFFFFFFFFFFF the flame sensor function, which is dependent upon A) The Ignitor tips flame sensor function (current through and voltage drop across the flame signal is sent to the board) and The Controls boards circuitry is functioning properly,,,,,,,,, the gas valve remains open and she STOPS SPARKING...…….. If she lights the boards HV coil/transformer is working and the board is correctly opening the gas valve and the ignitor tip is working AT LEAST AS FAR AS PRODUCING A SPARK ACROSS THE GAP IS CONCERNED. The flame sensor function is more critical and more subject to problems in gap distance and/or a resistive ground INSURE CORRECT GAP AND A GOOD GROUND and try again...…….. HOWEVER if it doesn't stop sparking my best PURE GUESS not being there is a) The circuit board is at fault, this is suspect since the Ignitor Tip is at least lighting the flame (You said it lights then goes out right???) or b) An ignitor tip problem (gap incorrect or bad ground or crack or carbon). A problem I had was I didn't have a circuit board tester and couldn't tell if between the two it was a board orrrrrrrrrrr an Ignitor Tip/Flame Sensor problem. RV dealers have board testers and I think Dinosaur may sell them I've just never owned one. FWIW here's my approach and reasoning to the problem ifffffffffffff it turns out to be a board or an Ignitor Tip problem............….Even if you need a new board, for no more then the cost Id replace the Ignitor Tip/Flame Sensor at the same time. That being said, and based on 49 years of RV ownership and troubleshooting, with no method to determine if the problem is the board or Ignitor Tip (assuming one of those is indeed the problem), if you start with the less expensive Ignitor Tip and that solves the problem, you save a hundred bucks, but if you still need a new board you already have a new Ignitor Tip/Flame Sensor so the system should be good to go yayyyyyyyyy Best I have to offer not being there so try this and the manuals Troubleshooting Procedure and let us know what you find. ALSO I would remove n clean the brass looking flat contacts where the flat ribbon connector connects to the board (IF that's what your heater has??) and if necessary remove n clean n wire brush all the grounding and mounting screws including Ignitor Tip to burner tube. MAYBE YOU WILL LUCK OUT AND NOT NEED TO BUY ANYTHING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Or bite the bullet and get a new board if that proves necessary...…..Good Luck John T

Heres a manual for many Atwood Water Heaters and it has a troubleshooting procedure. That manual shows a GCH6A-10E----------------------------6 gal. electronic gas combo w/heat exchange BUT you stated 10ES ?? http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf Regardless Id still start with checking for low voltage,,,,,,,,,,,bad loose or resistive ground connections,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,loose electrical connections,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,If it has a flat ribbon cable connector on the board ???? Id remove it n clean the flat brass looking board contacts then re attach,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,loose or corroded sheet metal attachment/grounding screws (including ignitor assembly to burner tube and if I recall a green grounding screw to case/frame) ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Check for I believe its a proper 1/8" gap from ignitor to grounding tip (that also has to do with flame sensor circuitry that shuts gas valve off),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, even if it may turn out to be the more expensive control board, check easy simple free things first. The fact it is lighting but then goes out makes me think the flame sensor circuitry (includes ignitor tip and gap and control board) or a bad ground or a ribbon cable connector issue OR EVEN THE BOARD GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR may be the problem but there's many other possibilities of course. READ THE MANUAL AND WORK THROUGH ITS TROUBLESHOOTING, maybe its something cheap n simple, maybe its a board, maybe something else I cant say from here, sorry. John T

Jay, at most RV Rallys Solar Workshops are offered. Such was true at recent Escapees and RVillage Rallys and one gentleman offered full installations. I will be glad to help with engineering advice and pull wires etc. but IM NOT GOING UP ON ANY ROOF, I'm gettin too old for that lol John T

Thanks for the feedback. Basic free n easy simple troubleshooting using maybe just your eyes and/or a volt ohm meter looking for bad resistive grounds, loose mechanical connections (loose or rusty sheet metal screws), bad/resistive wiring connections or low voltage (if battery voltage is low try it with Converter/Charger working) may get you going, but if not then it may get more expensive like the control board (if needed check out Dinosaur Electronics). If you don't already have one downloading a manual will have a decent troubleshooting flow chart. When I was young I had to work those kind of hours grrrrrrrrrr lol Let us all know John T

Jay, I haven't heard of any such Rally. I'm often somewhere in Florida that time of year and my Solar is already installed but Id be glad to lend assistance unless I'm at a Tractor Show or Bluegrass Festival. John T

FWIW in forty nine years (but years back they were NOT electronic, I'm guessing that's what OP has??) I've also seen many Flame Sensor/Ignitor Tip problems (versus the control board) often a hairline crack,,,,,,,,, or carbon trace,,,,,,,,,,,, or incorrect gap,,,,,,,,,,,, or even a loose connection or bad ground to case (things and sheet metal attaching screws get loose or rusty you know). The tiny voltage drop across and current through a flame IS DIFFERENT then if there was no flame in the gap. That's how the tip sends a signal to the board so it can shut off the gas valve in the absence of a flame...…... A bad board orrrrrrrrrr flame sensor problem may not allow the gas valve to stay open for safety...……. BUT OFTEN if that's (Ignitor Tip) bad it wont light in the first place HMMMMMMMMMMM !!!!!!!!!! The gas valve opens and then the boards HV coil/transformer/ignitor will send HV to the ignitor tip which creates sparks (Snap Snap Snap you hear) and ignites the gas. If the gap were incorrect or a bad ground or there's a shorting carbon path or a hairline crack the flame wont ignite in the first place and the board (if alllllllllll is working correct) causes gas valve closure (removes its coil voltage). If BOTH the flame sensor and board are working correct and the flame ignites the gas valve stays open WELL DUH LOL There needs to be BOTH a working sensor PLUS a working board to keep the gas valve open (but his closes, back again to our basic board orrrrrrrrrrrr sensor problem) If its lighting but then the gas valve closes (he said it lights but goes out) if that's due to an incorrect flame sense signal, the gap may be incorrect, or the Flame Sensor/Ignitor Tip bad. If that's all fine, then it back to a board problem grrrrrrrrr Based on years of experience I WOULD NOT TAKE ANY BETS if its a board or a Flame Sensor/Ignitor Tip Problem. The fact that it IS LIGHTING cuts "slightly" more in favor towards a board then a Flame Sensor/Ignitor problem.. HOWEVER AND REGARDLESS I always troubleshoot simple easy free or cheaper fixes (Ignitor tip much cheaper then board) FIRST BEFORE I blindly and foolishly pay big bucks for a new board. I'm NOT saying, guessing or betting if its a board or a Flame Sensor/Ignitor Tip OR OTHER problem like a bad ground or low voltage or a loose connection, I'M ONLY SAYING I would verify its NOT the tip or something simple BEFORE I ran out and bought a new board WHICH SURE COULD WELL TURN OUT TO BE THE PROBLEM............…especially considering the fact the flame is at least lighting in the first place (perhaps the Flame Sensor/Ignitor Tip is OK ??) And we don't even know the Model he has so this is only mere guessing in the meantime, still fun trying our best to help John T

Yo Jim, FWIW I happen to agree. Trying easy simple FREE fixes BEFORE throwing expensive parts at a problem (KISS) it is just how I learned over 49 years of RV ownership and a career in electrical engineering LONG BEFORE READING ANY MANUALS. Sure a board failure remains a possibility, I've bought my share of them from Dinosaur Electronics that never failed thereafter, but I figure there's NO cost NO harm in FIRST performing basic troubleshooting and if a new board is required go for it. Connections, grounds, ribbon cable to board connector, flame sensor problem, low voltage is easy to repair and much CHEAPER (assuming its an elec ignition system) and using the Troubleshooting Tips in the manual can even work IMAGINE THAT lol Of course each are entitled to their own opinions and their own methods and procedures regarding how they diagnose and approach repairs, just because you and I happen to agree on this DOES NOT mean others need to. DONT LISTEN TO ME IM NOT AN ATWOOD TECHNICIAN...…..Check with trained competent professionals, vendors and manuals before me..... Best wishes, God Bless, take care yall John T

If you have the Model number its easy to Google a Manual which will have a Troubleshooting Procedure. What is the Model ?? I've had them light (which tells me HV spark Ignitor circuitry is working and gas valve initially opens) but then go out because the flame sensor fails to register a flame (Could be EITHER a board problem orrrrrrrr sensor problem, check first for good connections and grounds) so the gas valve shuts off for safety. That's a part of the control board system but you also need good connections and good grounds for all to work properly, check all that FIRST before proceeding. On the Atwood models with the control circuit board you can get access to I've had some luck (if yours is that type??) removing the ribbon cable connector on the board and using a pencil eraser to polish up the flat brass looking contacts then re attach. A volt meter to insure good full battery voltage is getting to the control board can help diagnose problems as low voltage can cause problems. I have no idea what "wire" you're talking about. Is this an electronic fired unit (what Im talking about above) or the older pilot and thermocouple type where you have to push and hold the valve a few seconds before the thermocouple holds in ?? If so post back that's a different animal where a bad thermocouple may be the cause Not knowing what you have the things that come to mind are: The control board,,,,,,,,bad ground or connection,,,,,,,flame sensor,,,,,,,,,low voltage,,,,,,,,thermocouple issue (older units). Those boards aren't cheap so try easy things first. Ive never had a Dinosaur replacement board go bad if that's the type and that's the problem, but hold off and troubleshoot (get a manual) before you run out and spend money John T

Thanks Joe, indeed it all depends on how often or how long a person "dry camps". The "economic" decision also hinges on if you already have a Genset in the RV OR if you have to go out and buy one... I just don't like the idea and concept of having to fire up a Genset to charge my battery bank hate nor do I like to run it early mornings in quite peaceful say Natl Forest type camps where there's mostly tent campers within earshot. Other options I've observed more lately (if no genset or solar) are the use of an RV or tow trucks charging system to pump some charge into the house batteries but that's a whole other topic...….For many and as alluded to above, energy is NOT the dry camp time limiting factor ITS RUNNING OUT OF FRESH WATER OR HAVING TO DUMP. With only us two in our relatively small 29 ft Class C and modest energy requirements keeping our 520 Amp Hour AGM house battery bank up to say 60% to 100% SOC using 1080 watts of Solar is never a problem. I designed my system to allow us to dry camp (we never use public facilities) for one week before we need to take on water and we can go nearly two weeks before dumping, but after a week in one location were ready to move on anyway. At the recent RVillage Rally we saw a huge Class A with enough Lithium battery capacity and an extra 180 amp engine alternator to power at least one maybe two rooftop AC's at the same time for a decent amount of time, they were really into it much more (and a ton more money) then us in our smaller Class C. To each their own and all the choices and options is what makes the diverse RV community great. Nice chatting with you John T Currently off the road for a while "Back home again in Indiana" Helping my buddys farm, maintenance and improving the RV while planning the next trip, practice a little law, having fun ………..

Joe, That may well be true (even moreso if you spent perhaps a thousand bucks for each 100 AH of Lithium batteries). It all depends on how much is spent and the differences in Generator versus Solar use, how often one dry camps, etc. etc. etc. there's a ton of choices and variables. However, its also a lifestyle choice NOT only economics. For instance, when I'm dry camped in a quiet peaceful location where other campers may be within earshot BOTH for my own peace and quite as well as theirs I MADE A CHOICE (Regardless if economical or not) NOT to run the noisy generator but instead utilize Solar. That may or may NOT be the best choice if only money and payback and return on investment is considered, but its my own preference. I've been purchasing Solar for 85 cents per watt, got a good deal on 520 Amp Hours of AGM batteries, shopped wisely for Inverters and Chargers and did my own installation, so cost want all that bad in my opinion and budgetary constraints. Of course SURE it cost some bucks and I could run the generator instead (NOT had to buy the solar) and that's fine if one may so choose. To each their own I reckon...……….. PS My discussion above concerns having the capacity to run EVERYTHING BUT AC. If one installs a system capable of running a roof AC for much amount of time NOW THATS A DIFFERENT AND BIGGER MORE EXPENSIVE BALLAGAME...If it gets too hot I just go up in elevation or move lol Yall take care, best wishes John T

AMEN Routine exercise under load is good maintenance. That along with scheduled oil and filter, fuel and air filters, exercise the circuit breaker, keep them clean and adding Sta Bil if needed sure goes a long way. I have seen sections of rubber fuel line on older RV's that begins to crack. RV's, especially motorhomes, with all their mechanical and electrical systems require good routine maintenance, but I don't mind (kind of enjoy) fiddling with them when off road. John T