oldjohnt

Its been more then once I've seen a transfer switch fail to toggle after the genset starts grrrrrrrrrrr Yep if 30 years old and with your switch to AGM a quality 3/4 Stage AGM compatible charger or a combination Inverter/Charger may be wise. John T

You probably are already aware of this buttttttttt… Typically an RV Genset, same as if you were plugged to shore power subject to your wiring scheme, provides 120 VAC to the operate the RV's onboard Converter/Charger that charges your house batteries. They do make combination Inverter/Chargers that use battery power to operate a 12 VDC to 120 VAC Inverter if/as used when dry camping, but when plugged to shore power they charge the batteries. Know what you have ??? Converter/Charger takes 120 VAC and charges 12 VDC batteries, Inverter uses 12 VDC battery power to produce 120 VAC. Do your batteries charge if plugged to shore power but NOT when the Genset powers the RV ?? When dry camping you DO NOT want the 12 VDC to 120 VAC Inverter to power up your Converter/Charger, that's a loosing proposition There are plenty of quality smart 3 or 4 stage chargers suitable for flooded lead acid or sealed AGM or even Lithium, price depends to a great extent on the max charge capacity say a 20 or 30 or up to 100 amps. Progressive Dynamics and Xantrex and Magnum and Victron come to mind, I have a PD 9280...…... John T

Thanks for the post Wr, lots of good info there. I happen to own a Generac and already have some manuals but can always use more. John T

SW I view this as sort of two questions. FWIW these are my "opinions" An occasional 2 amp trickle charge (charger with no AGM setting) isn't likely strong enough to do any serious harm to EITHER a flooded lead acid or a sealed AGM battery and will provide at least some degree of charge to EITHER battery. If you're looking at the long term, perhaps a lot of charging cycles/time, heavy long term use, higher current chare rates, dry camping etc., and what's best for the battery and prolonging its life, I suggest you use a quality so called 3 or 4 Stage "Smart Charger" that has specific settings where you can choose EITHER flooded lead acid OR sealed AGM. For an occasional short term or maintenance if that's ALL you require (NOT into long term battery charge and discharge cycles and heavy use) I don't envision any major harm by applying a 2 amp trickle charge......….Heck for short term occasional use I don't envision any major harm (NON AGM charger) at even a bit higher charge rate...……. John T NOT a battery expert, no warranty, consult the battery manufacturers for their recommendations is my bottom line advice. Different battery types even different manufacturers may suggest slightly different charging rates and algorithms.

A big AMEN to that, its knowledge coupled with practical experience that makes a good RV service technician (that don't come overnight either). In over 49 years of RV ownership and dealership I've observed competent electrical troubleshooters as well as totally incompetent grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Best wishes yall n God Bless John T

TC, it sounds like you're fairly proficient and may be able to track down your problem congratulations !! and thanks for the feedback.. In regards to your post above, take a look at what the manual says regarding the "excitation circuit breaker" EXCITATION CIRCUIT BREAKER: The excitation circuit breaker (CB3) is self-resetting and cannot be reset manually. Should the breaker open for any reason, excitation current flow to the Rotor will be lost. The unit’s AC output voltage will then drop to a value commensurate with the Rotor's residual magnetism (about 7-12 VAC). Not being there and based on the above taken from the manual, it indeed appears if the breaker opens the AC output would drop to 7- 12 volts as you have reported HOWEVER I think its the Voltage Regulator (NOT the excitation circuit breaker) that "senses voltage" and the Voltage Regulator also controls voltage level (120 not 160). I don't know if the VR is opening the breaker when it senses high voltage (doesn't seem like a precise or accurate voltage regulation scheme) or exactly how it functions when it senses 160 volts ????????? NOT being a Generator Tech I suspect the VR is supposed to regulate the output voltage by controlling rotor current much more precisely, but if it malfunctions and sends excess current the result is high 160 volts output !!!!!!! Maybe that's what's opening the excitation circuit breaker??? darn if I know, but the instant drop from 160 down to 6 or 7 volts makes sense …... Regardless, I tend to agree with your assessment "the excitation circuit breaker is doing its job" which leads more towards the Voltage Regulator as perhaps the problem ??? Just FYI in case you don't already know, the higher the rotors magnetic field strength (by more current) the greater the genset produces and even with no excitation current the residual magnetism can produce the 7 to 12 volts, but if the VR pumps more current into the rotor then you can get that 120 volts out........ Don't you wish you had a magic wand to test the Voltage Regulator ??? Perhaps try to tweak and adjust it to see if that makes a difference??? an adjustment pot can get dirty, corroded or open circuit.... Still I like to keep it simple and don't overlook bad or loose resistive connections. If the wiring and circuit and connections that sense voltage and sends it to the VR isn't in place or faulty or loose or resistive, the VR may respond by pumping more current into the Rotor thereby raising voltage and perhaps opening the excitation circuit breaker ??? or maybe the VR is just bad ??? darn if I know what your problem is...….. I cant speak to any dealers in your area HOWEVER having been to a ton of dealer over years in scattered locations over the USA, many RV dealers have a "generator tech" onboard who can service RV gensets be they Onan or Cummins or Kohler or Generac even if there's no sign saying "X Brand of Generator Service here" NOTE I haven't studied the manual as far as other troubleshooting is concerned, you're there not me so I will leave that up to you. Sorry, best I have to offer not being there and likely not much more even if I were lol John T Too long retired n rusty electrical engineer

The two manuals have a lot of similarities, this one lists 55 (The Genset in question) and 65 and 75, Models 4702, 4703, 4705, 4706, 4707 http://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/generac-rv/0E7225.pdf "generac-rv" part of the URL This one lists IM, NP and Q Series with engine controller circuit board 92234 http://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/generac-rv/0E7225.pdf "generac-rv" part of the URL Both are similar technical in depth manuals, Do you know exactly which Genset you have (55, Model 47xx, Series IM, NP or Q, and what circuit board) ??????????????????? Those numbers can be hard to find grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Verify which Make and Model and Series and what engine controller yours has, LOOK AT BOTH MANUALS and use the one suited for your particular Genset. BOTH have troubleshooting flow charts HOWEVER if the original poster isn't technically savvy and doesn't have all the necessary testing equipment he may or may not be able to diagnose the problem on his own...…..And I sure cant sitting here lol I would still check, maybe (if you are technically proficient) remove, clean and re attach the cable connections, inspect all the wiring, and re check voltages. While the Voltage Regulator or Excitation Circuit may ?????????? (along with a ton of others) prove to be the problem, other minor easily correctible wiring or connection issues might also . If this doesn't help I suggest a trained professional service technician be used. John T

I wasn't either, try this link, it worked for me : http://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/generac-rv/0E7225.pdf On page 7 of the manual linked above it talks about RECONNECTION and my best pure "guess" is from the factory it came with two 120 volt legs and no 240 (see Figure 1.8 Page 7) . If that's the case (I have no idea setting here) if alls working I would expect 0 volts if measured across L1 & L2 . FWIW even this may be above your skills and no help to you whatsoever, In the manual linked above I found this interesting: NOTE If you read that below, I think Kirk may be onto something when he stated "On page 4 of the manual it mentions that voltage from the generator before field boost is 7 to 12 volts" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FIELD BOOST When the engine is cranked during startup, the engine's starter contactor is energized closed. Battery current is then delivered to the starter motor and the engine cranks. Closure of the starter contactor contacts also delivers battery voltage to Pin 13 of an Engine Controller circuit board. The battery current flows through a 47 ohm, 2 watt resistor and a field boost diode, then to the Rotor via brushes and slip rings. This is called “Field Boost” current. Field boost current is delivered to the Rotor only while the engine is cranking. The effect is to “flash the field” every time the engine is cranked. Field boost current helps ensure that sufficient “pickup” voltage is available on every startup to turn the Voltage Regulator on and build AC output voltage. NOTE: Loss of the Field Boost function may or may not result in loss of AC power winding output. If Rotor residual magnetism alone is sufficient to turn the Regulator on loss of Field Boost may go unnoticed. However, If residual magnetism alone Is not enough to turn the Regulator on, loss of the Field Boost function will result In loss of AC power winding output to the load. The AC output voltage will then drop to a value commensurate with the AND ON PAGE 9 I FOUND THIS: Your Excitation circuit breaker could have a problem IT STATES IF EXCITATION CURRENT FLOW IS LOST THE AC OUTPUT VOLTAGE WILL DROP TO 7-12 VOLTS But what about that 160 volt reading ??????????????????????? EXCITATION CIRCUIT BREAKER: The excitation circuit breaker (CB3) is self-resetting and cannot be reset manually. Should the breaker open for any reason, excitation current flow to the Rotor will be lost. The unit’s AC output voltage will then drop to a value commensurate with the Rotor's residual magnetism (about 7-12 VAC). HOWEVER that doesn't explain your 160 volt reading IE leads me more towards a Voltage Regulator problem ???? Figure 2.7 Page 10 shows the Voltage Regulator and perhaps it or the Excitation Circuit Breaker mentioned above may ??????????? be your problem. Since I'm not there to take measurements and are for the most part operating in the dark I THINK YOU NEED A QUALIFIED SERVICE TECH TO TAKE IT FROM HERE because while a Voltage Regulator or other components may be the problem there may be other minor issues such as a loose resistive connection. At least take a look at the Regulator and its connections (remove clean and re attach) and the excitation circuit breaker and any and all other wiring connections inside (unplug clean and re attach the connectors) Sorry I'm running out of smarts and this is getting above my pay grade but will still help more if I can John T

TC Thanks for the feedback and here's my response to your new info: 1) If the genset is NOT configured for 240, as I suspect, you would indeed measure 0 Volts across two legs of the same phase same voltage subject to how its wired. 2) How to tell if its a Floating or a Bonded Neutral: Take a continuity tester or an ohm meter and measure between Neutral and the iron case/frame of the Genset. If its a Bonded Neutral there will be no resistance IE a basically short circuit Neutral to case/frame, but if its a Floating Neutral its an open (high ohms approaching infinity on some meters) circuit. There are good reasons why a Genset may have a Floating or Bonded Neutal but that's another topic. 3) Open Neutral. Its more of a hazard in a 120/240 50 Amp configuration then a 120 volt only. In a 120/240 like a 50 amp RV pedestal has if the Neutral is open there's still 240 L1 to L2 but if you connect L1 loads and L2 loads which are as typical different resistances and they draw current you end up with different voltages on each leg IE you could get 200 volts on L1 and 40 on L2. Obviously if there's no load applied there's no V = I x R voltage drop WELL DUH you say lol. If its a 120 only supply if the Neutral is open there's no return current path and the device simply doesn't work. 4) An Open or resistive Neutral is NOT the end all and cause of many voltage problems as many lay persons tend to believe. In electrical power distribution terminology the Neutral is most often BONDED AND NOT FLOATING. However there can be an open (more hazardous in 120/240 then 120 only) or a loose/resistive connection which can cause a V = I x R Voltage drop when under a load. If the genset still exhibits those weird voltages direct on it not hooked to any outlets and loads I suspect a voltage regulation problem NOT an open or loose/resistive Neutral...….. NOTE I am NOT any genset expert by any means so no warranty. I'm only a long retired n very rusty electrical power distribution design engineer and 49 year RV owner and past dealer, so consult with generator experts and service technicians. If the genset internal wiring and connections are all okay and the voltage problems still exist right at the genset itself with no outlets or loads attached, it could be the voltage regulation system (among a ton of other) is at fault, but there are just too many possibilities and too many unknowns to figure it out remotely. Best wishes and good luck John T

TC, its too early and there's too many unknowns as of yet, but to start with I believe some of those Generac 55G's are "configurable" as 240 volt, do you know how yours is configured?? If its 240 it would measure 240 L1 to L2. I would assume it came from the factory with a BONDED Neutral (NOT a Floating, they make small gensets with both Floating and Bonded Neutrals) but since its for RV use I would want it to have a Bonded Neutral. You might want to check to insure it has a Bonded Neutral and also check the connections from genset to the outlet and in the outlet box are all wired correct and tight. In 240 volt RV pedestals if the Neutral isn't present you can end up with instead of 120 and 120 on each leg you may get 200 and 40 grrrrrrrrrrrr I agree with your assessment the Voltage Regulator may be at fault but check the wiring first An EMS is expecting a Bonded Neutral system and 120 volts on each leg, yours is doing its job it sounds like PS This manual if for you genset may help: https://www.norwall.com/product_pdfs/3799_5751_specs.pdf John T

That's very very bad ………….Sounds like its time to replace either the cooling unit or the entire fridge, you might want to shop n do your homework before making the decision, depending on age and condition of the fridge and your budget. Although its NOT best for my RV and its equipment and my lifestyle (lots of dry camping even though I have adequate solar and battery energy storage) I see a lot of folks going to 120 VAC Compressor powered fridges nowadays...………….. John T

At the recent RVillage Rally I attened a Seminar at a coach with a 48 Volt 300 Amp Hour battery labeled "Nickel Cobalt Manganese Lithium Ion" Obviously a bit different from LiFePo4... John T

Tom, indeed Will puts out good information. While they get much of the publicity and they sponsor so many You Tubers (great at marketing) BattleBorn is NOT the only player out there. Shop around, do your homework and ESPECIALLY match a Converter/Charger to preserve and protect that huge investment NOT just any old charger as Lithiums have specific charge parameters as compared to other technology. The term "drop in" can be misleading as its NOT ONLY the physical size of the case that matters, but a custom programmable or Lithium option Converter/Charger and MPPT solar charge controller should be part of the overall Lithium based system. If I'm gonna spend over a thousand dollars per battery, I'm willing to invest in the best charging available, but that's just me !!! John T Retired n rusty EE and no solar experts but its sure fun learning

Maybe that's gonna be similar to when I bought my Renogy 200 AH AGM's for $247 and a week later they raised to $399 IE Hurry now lol I'm at the RVillage Rally in Live Oak Florida today and toured a 42 Ft Class A with a 300 Amp Hour at 48 Volt battery ("think it said Nickel Cobalt Manganese Lithium Ion) which was charged by an extra alternator on the Cummins Diesel rated at they said 58 volt and 180 amp ??? John T

Glenn, there are simple relatively cheap ways using a common generic "dry transformer" (if such is available??) to get 120/240 Single Phase Three Wire out of a 120 VAC single phase source be it a Victron or anything else. If you had say only one leg of straight 120 VAC available you can use a transformer that steps that up to 240 VAC Line to Line equipped with a center tap Neutral. That way you end up with the same as a residential 120/240 Single Phase Three Wire with two 120 legs and 240 Line to Line. Assuming any transfer method switches the Neutral you would configure the dry transformer (I'm talking about an isolation transformer here not an autotransformer) as a Separate Derived Source using a Bonded Neutral. Obviously the dry transformer needs the correct specs, such as say 120 VAC Primary in and 240 Secondary out with a center tap you use for Neutral PLUS it needs the required power rating DUH. Or use a Victron Autotransformer as discussed above (Im unfamiliar with them) if available and it does the job ?? and compare prices etc., IE do your homework and make YOUR choice John T

Glenn, while not knowing all the exact loads, I'd ask what are the chances of and how long and how often would the mini splits be running at max while AT THE SAME TIME say the microwave, a coffee maker, a hair dryer, a toaster etc (high current appliances) be running??? As a pure "guess" (no way of knowing sitting here) I suspect there's a darn good chance that 8800 watt Magnum(s) system you spoke of will suffice. Of course, a Killawatt meter and specs and an energy audit could provide an answer, I'm not a fan of running devices at the very top end of their ratings for extended time periods...….Of course you're gonna need proper transfer switching and panel and Neutral configurations. Again, I'm NOT any Solar expert or mechanical/thermo engineer so take this with a grain of salt, see what the experts have to say. God Bless and Merry Christmas to you and yours and all here John T

Glenn, back to cooling, if I recall correctly the heat generated is 3.41 BTU per Watt, so at 17,000 watts that would be 58,000 BTU (similar to maybe 1/2 of an x sq ft house furnace). HOWEVER I just don't envision any full 17KW being used all at once for any sustained time period. That's the maximum CAPACITY yet allllllllllll that much energy use at once is unlikely in my opinion. Sure a person could make all the exact measurements and calculations figuring in the size of the enclosure and its thermal character and figure out how much heat is generated that needs to be extracted BUT IM NO MECHANICAL OR THERMO ENGINEER AND SMART ENOUGH TO DO THAT. Still I strongly agree with your idea of using a metal (versus wood n cloth) enclosure and ventilation and cooling, but sorry, I just have no idea how much is needed...……..Maybe the mechanical and HVAC minded gents can address your cooling concerns ??????????? PS as a pure guess if you're running strictly off your battery and say all your big RV loads were running (AC's etc) you could be pulling lets use a guess and say 3000 to 5000 watts (NOT anywhere near 17,000) that would mean 10,200 to 17,050 BTU of heat generated at the battery which needs extracted out of your metal enclosure. (unless you dont care if temp rises inside it how much???) What it takes to do that may be simply fans and venting, it depends on sooooooooooo many unknown factors like volume and insulation and the ambient temperature etc...Heck no sense in OVERthinking all this, I bet if you use a metal box with an open vent on one end and a couple 12 VDC muffin fans on the other it may (subject to actual loads) suffice BUT NO WARRANTY OF COURSE you gotta do the math to be sure and/or see how Chevy handles it...........…….. John T

Glenn, Congratulations, at least you're thinking and concerned about cooling the battery, I've seen some folks just stick 4 or 5 Battle Born Lithiums under a couch (not even in a metal enclosure) and be done with it ???????? Actually cooling isn't real simple, one has to know the watts of heat generated,,,,,,,,,,,the volume and thermal characteristics of the enclosure space and then compute the CFM of air flow etc etc etc . That's a mechanical and thermodynamics question NOT for me an electrical person lol but a sufficient sized metal enclosure with "adequate" (however much that is???) fan forced ventilation of some sort will surely suffice and has to be better then under a non vented wood/cloth sofa right??. NOTE in the event you camp in cold climates THEN KEEPING THE BATTERY WARM ENOUGH FROM FREEZING is another important consideration !!!!!!!!!!! I hope the solar experts and mechanical (heating/cooling) minded and Lithium experts will weigh in, this is getting above my pay grade lol John T (page 16 of the latest Escapees magazine picking an old banjo)

One huge battery, its gonna take some "serious" copper (adequate ampacity) and over current protection to connect the battery to the Inverters but I'm sure you will handle it Glenn. Gee its fun for the rest of us to spend YOUR money lol John T Still in Austin but headed to a warmer Florida after Christmas

Glenn, I have attended a few seminars, read and researched (still no expert by any means) the use of a Tesla or Chevy Volt battery in an RV. Sure there can be potential hazards, but if you study what Tom Morton (Mortons on the Move) did (and several other solar experts) you will gain a lot of insight. To protect and prevent many typical associated hazards he utilized an array of protection devices to shut down in case of overheating, over charging, low charge state and low temperature along with the standard over current and fire protection. While many are satisfied with and "get by" with less hazard protection, FWIW I like your idea of a metal box enclosure. I have seen some stick Lithium batteries in a wooden enclosure say under an interior wood/cloth seat, but that's NOT how I would suggest. I think a metal enclosure with adequate ventilation is a good plan which has to be better than a wooden/cloth enclosure WELL DUH. With proper overcurrent, over or under temperature, and charge monitoring, the battery in an adequate vented metal enclosure sounds like a good plan to me even though NOT a solar expert......….... Wood or metal enclosure ????? ITS YOUR RV YOUR RISK AND YOUR CHOICE PS How many Amp Hours of energy storage will you end up with?????????? Hope you have a Happy and Blessed Merry Christmas, good questions good thread you started, I'm glad to participate and look forward to other opinions regarding a metal enclosure. John T

Lou I agree and would use AT LEAST 6 gauge. If one figures the absolute max and best conditions with bright sunlight direct overhead in ideal conditions (yeah right how often does that happen in the real world lol) and lets use for example say 45 amps, 6 Gauge would suffice HOWEVER AND SUBJECT TO if 45 amps just happened to be the "maximum continuous" current (which I doubt meets the definition in this scenario) I never designed to no more then 80% of the wires ampacity IE in the situation IF (likely not here) there were 45 "continuous amps" I would up the wire in that case to No 4. Bigger wire = less voltage drop and bigger is better DUH but practical situation and how much voltage drop one can tolerate enters into the decision...…. GREAT IDEA GLENN welding lead has better flexibility,,,,,,,,,,, better vibration resistance,,,,,,,,,,,,,,good insulation quality and integrity PLUS you will get less voltage drop then using 6 gauge which is still the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM I RECOMMEND REGARDLESS Youre gonna have one good system, congratulations, keep us posted John T

Glenn, sure simple straight ladder wiring will "work" and I'm sure many are configured that way and no problems were encountered. Once you make up the five sets of two in series if you tie the resulting + and - together at a combiner/splice box (one wiring method others will work) you can then run two big wires (3500 watts at 77 volts is around 45 amps) + and - down to your controller. HOWEVER its still electrically "better" (even if not a "huge" difference) if all the panels were equally loaded which is achievable using the wiring methods described in the Smartgauge diagrams http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html. AT THE LEAST (if you don't want to go to the trouble and expense to match things perfect) as they explain if you take the final net output off the + of one end of the ladder and the - off the other end hey that's better then nothing and will improve the balance among the ten panels. SURE you have plenty of power and using a simple ladder wiring procedure works and there may not be that much to gain by doing it to achieve absolute balance. I'm ONLY describing how to achieve the best balance possible even though less then perfect will certainly suffice. Similar the bigger the wire the less the voltage drop but again overkill can become expensive and cumbersome and harder to install and your chosen wiring method (simple ladder or better balanced) doesn't have to be absolute perfect to still function fine n dandy. Its likely using big enough or bigger wire down to the controller will get you more bang for the buck then achieving perfect panel load balance, but I enjoy describing good methods for those who may be extra picky about such things lol.. Hope this helps, I think you have it down now and will have a great system when finished, keep us posted...……... FUN thread for the sparkies at least lol Merry CHRISTmas John T

FWIW I agree with Chad, just to put it in different terms Id say: Simply means you start by wiring TWO panels in series,,,,,,,Next you PARALLEL five of those combinations. Again for "best" (although will still work no problem if not) balance of that ten panel complex arrangement take a look at the Smartgauge tests results. Same as batteries in series or parallel, voltage adds in series but amps adds in parallel...…...NOTE 5 x 2 is ONLY one method to wire all ten panels there are others that can "work: its just how I would choose to do it based on the considerations I cited above Fud discussion John T

Glenn, sorry I got here late FWIW here's my opinion. I would NOT want to wire them all in series such that you're transmitting at such highhhhhhhhhh voltage down to the controller due to A) Voltage withstand and insulation and voltage breakdown considerations. b) If you stick to more typical 24 or 48 or 96 volt systems, more solar charge controllers are suitable ALTHOUGH my (and many other) MPPT will accept up to 100 or even 150, but I've NOT seen 300 volts !!!!! C) With that many panels wired in series there's more potential of shading problems. In series if one panel is drastically shaded or isn't producing for whatever it decreases the net output, although you're still gonna end up with some series connections if you go with my plan below........... My preference would be to wire them in series/parallel such that I'm sending NO MORE THAN 96 volts down to the controller. One possible method using ten panels would be five sets of two in series. That's 77.96 Vmp using your figures. That's wiring two in series and then parallel five such sets. That will work with the majority of controllers and be safer and more standard and typical when it comes to selecting your wiring and it and connections and combiner and junction box voltage ratings. VOLTAGE DROP CONSIDERATIONS: Once you know the max current and wire lengths its easy to use a voltage drop calculator and Id prefer it be kept to a minimum like less then one percent. Sure bigger is better, but I don't like the idea of too big heavy cumbersome less flexible cables all over the roof either. If you're looking at lets use 3550 watts at lets use say 77.96 volts (just for an example and illustration NOT intended in any way as exact) that's 45 amps in which case No 6 wire "could" suffice for ampacity purposes BUT bigger would give less voltage drop so No 6 from the final combiner box down to the controller looks like the MINIMUM NOTE this is based on a 5 x 2 series/parallel configuration but this would change if you wire it different !!!!!!!!!! CONNECTIONS: Although these are solar panels instead of batteries THE WIRING METHOD TO ACHIVE BETTER BALANCE IS MORE IMPORTANT THEN MOST REALIZE. To decide how best to wire them I would definitely take a look at AT SMART GAUGE http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html because a simple ladder is NOT the best way so the panels are balanced. To get the most bang for the buck and realize ALL the benefits those panels have to offer I strongly suggest you study their findings even if sure it will still "work" if wired in a simple 5 x 2 ladder, Im sure people have used such for years NO problems HOWEVER the panels are simply NOT balanced as well as if wire correctly.........….YOUR MONEY YOUR CHOICE WHICH I SUPPORT Great question fun discussion for us "sparkies" at least lol NOTE I approach this more from a power distribution standpoint as that's my background Im NOTTTTTTT in any way a solar expert so do as the solar experts say NOTTTTTTTTTT me John T Long retired n rusty engineer and no solar expert so NO warranty, ONLY my thoughts and opinions.

CONGRATULATIONS and thanks for the feedback. FWIW I've yet to have a Dinosaur replacement board go bad. With BOTH that new Ignitor and Dinosaur board you may be good to go for yearsssssssssss now. I think replacing the Ignitor was a good thing to do while you're at it (as well as T Stat), as I've seen many of them develop problems. John T